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Filo=92s = BALI travel=20 FORUM SUMMARY.=20

(Mainly from travellers=92 postings = on http://www.balitravelforum.com/<= /A>=20 and  http://www.bali.com/, added to our own experiences.) =

Compiled to 15=20 March, 2009 11:02=20 AM.

 

Adelaide date and time = -=20    Bali date and time -

 

There is an alphabetical list of = the contents=20 a little further down. To save you searching you can just click on any = link in=20 this list and it will immediately open up for you.

For more=20 information and photos of Bali go to our home pages at http://www.filosbali.net/. =

Sunday, 2nd October, 2005. =

I've just finished reading my morning = paper and=20 listening to the radio news reports of last nights bombings in = Bali.

In the past I've written here; =

"Having just returned from our = 2005 trip I=20 can only repeat what I have had written here for some years now - I = honestly=20 believe that Bali is safe for tourists.

We stayed in the southern = tourist areas of=20 Legian, Seminyak and Tuban and made day or longer trips to a Muslim = school and=20 orphanage in Denpasar, to Lovina and Singaraja, Pacung and Bedugul, to = Ubud=20 and out west to Negara which is a region with a higher than common = Muslim=20 population. Nowhere were we at all concerned."=20

What can I say now?

Obviously Bali is not safe, nor can I = confidently=20 say that these present terrorist attacks will make governments and = government=20 agencies such as customs and police suddenly find the will to do their = work with=20 sufficient enthusiasm and honesty to make the island safe.

We will still go to Bali because we = have too many=20 friends there whose life will return to the subsistence level or even = the=20 'barely surviving' level and we could not desert them in what will be = their hour=20 (and days and months and even years maybe) of need. We will go because = we don't=20 often frequent those night-owl places that attract crowds and attractive = crowds=20 for terrorists.

We will also go back because we just = can't bear=20 the thought of not going back to a place we love.

 

[In=20 August 2006 I heard that a new branch of the local police had=20 been established with the aim of curbing and maybe eliminating police=20 corruption. The phone number of this branch in Bali is 0361 224 111 and = is a=20 number that every tourist in Bali who carries a mobile phone should have = entered. If you believe that you are being harassed unfairly by the = police call=20 thew number and you will be put onto an English speaking officer who = will listen=20 to your complaint and record the name of the officer(s) seen on their = lapel or=20 breast patch. The English speaking officer will then ask to speak to the = officer=20 who is confronting you and address their side of the story and  if=20 necessary, their behaviour. In at least one reported incident the re was = a=20 remarkable change in approach and the tourist, who was being stung for a = hefty=20 bribe, was invited to proceed on their journey. A minor miracle but a = giant leap=20 forward against both official corruption and tourist angst.] - - [and in = 2007 it=20 was claimed that all this information was a hoax - but I'll keep the = number just=20 in case.]

 

After our 2007 trip it is fairly obvious that security = measures have=20 been stepped up considerably from the levels that existed only last = year. Our=20 first little 2 star hotel in Legian, for example, had Security personnel = on duty=20 24 hours every day. How effective they might be in a crunch might be = debatable=20 but they are there and provide another level of protection.

 

We will, however, be particular about = taking=20 reasonable precautions and about registering our travel plans with = family and on=20 the government web site designed for that purpose.

We will also be careful to behave = peacefully and=20 with and moderation, not to draw attention to ourselves or to offend = others, and=20 I have to say that we have seen some tourists who would do well to adopt = the=20 same outlook.

 

IF you decide to go = then at least=20 do those things too. Be alert and be cautious, but don=92t be paranoid = and ruin=20 what should be an enjoyable holiday. If you don=92t feel that you can do = this then=20 perhaps you should not go.

 

Register=20 your travel plans with the=20 Australian Dept of Foreign Affairs and Trade, (DFAT), on = https://www.orao.dfat.gov.au/orao/weborao.nsf/homepage?Openpage=20 . It will take about 5 minutes for each person. = Have your=20 passport handy to refer to.

You might also like to check the latest travel=20 information for your destination at = http://www.smarttraveller.gov.= au/.=20

If=20 you find yourself needing a new passport (remember it must have at least 6 months to go before = expiry, no=20 matter if you=92re only staying for a long weekend) then you can fill in = all the=20 information required on line. Go to http://www.passports.gov.au/, that=92s if you=92re in Australia of course but other = countries=20 might have a similar web site that will save you a visit to (and a wait = at) your=20 local government offices. Here you can download a one page renewal form = which=20 you fill out and take to your local Post Office with your old passport. = (Many=20 will take your photos for you if you haven't gone to your friendly local = photo=20 shop.) The new passport can be in your hands in 5 working = days.

 

REMEMBER: There is now a =91Visa On = Arrival=92 fee for=20 most foreign travellers =96 US$10 for a maximum of 3 days and US$25 for = a stay of=20 up to 30 days. This visa fee must be paid on arrival at your first = Indonesian=20 airport and applies to all travellers, even children who may not have = needed=20 their own seat on the aircraft. The system will now allow you to pay in = your=20 local currency or with credit cards. This fee is in addition to the = Indonesian=20 Departure Tax of Rp150,000 which must be paid at the airport when you = depart and=20 it must be paid in the local currency, Rupiah. Put your first Rp100,00 = note and=20 Rp50,000 note into your passport along with the white Immigration slip = you will=20 get when you arrive and go through immigration, then you won't forget = and get=20 caught. For those not familiar with the local currency 150,000 rupiah = might=20 sound a lot but really it's only about Aus$20.
If you are thinking of = a=20 longer term investigate the Retirement Visa for the over 55's and can be = for 5=20 years at Aus$1200/year which works out to less than the airfares to = Singapore to=20 qualify for visa extensions. There is also a sponsored Social Visa (at = Aus$60=20 pre paid) for stays of up to 60 days. You, not your sponsor, must apply = to renew=20 every 30 days for 4 times for Rp250,000 for first 2 renewals and = Rp300,000 for=20 next two. Each requires forms signed by both you and your sponsor so = don't lose=20 touch!

 

One = suggestion you=20 might consider is to scan all of your essential travel documents, = passport,=20 flight tickets, reservations etc, and e-mail them to yourself. Don't = delete the=20 e-mail and you will be able to download, retrieve and print off anything = lost=20 while you're on holidays.

 

If=20 you're flying through Darwin now that dropped flights have caused a bit = of chaos=20 in travellers' plans, try the Darwin Airport Resort for a break. There = is a=20 courtesy phone downstairs in the airport. For the cost of a meal and/or = a drink=20 or two their facilities are available and its only a minute in their = shuttle bus=20 with a lock-up for your luggage if you've not checked it right through = to Bali.=20 The Qantas Club is not open all day.

. .  ~  o  0  o  ~  . = .

 

Warning for new=20 readers. =96 = Just the=20 General Information section (Part 2) of this file is nearly 50 pages = long and=20 the District Information section is over 50 pages long. Both are getting = longer=20 as more information is added and little is taken out. =20

You may want to = select and=20 print only those parts that really interest you.

I suggest that you first print off the CONTENTS in Part 1 = just below=20 these boxes. You can then browse this closely and highlight any topics = that=20 immediately interest you. Then return on line to this screen and go to = those=20 sections. If indeed they are material that you want then tick (check) = the=20 highlight on your printed list. Cross out the highlight if it's a false = lead.=20 When you have finished this you will have economically made a list of = sections=20 to print.

If the list of your interests is extensive it might be = quicker to=20 copy the whole file to the hard disc of your computer, open it and = delete=20 everything you don't want between your chosen sections and finally save = and=20 print what remains.

 

This information is compiled by  = filo @ adam.com.au .  Please send feedback, = corrections,=20 comments or additional information to this E-mail address, with the two = spaces=20 on each side of the @ symbol taken out. It will be=20 appreciated.

If you=20 would like more information, advice, = stories=20 or photographs about Bali then start at our Home Page by clicking this = link in=20 blue type, then select from the left hand contents column on the opening = page.  http://filosbali.net/

. .  ~  o  = 0  o =20 ~  . .

CONTENTS  [Of both Part 1(General=20 info) & Part 2 (District=20 info)]

 

General Information CONTENTS=20 LIST.

The=20 HEADINGS below are all hot links to take you directly = to the=20 section you select, as are the coloured=20 words. Clicking on these will take you directly to that = section=20 or topic and save you the time-consuming task of scrolling through many = pages=20 and risking =91mouse-button' tendonitis. Some of these words might be = links to=20 other pages and will take a few seconds to load for = you.

To find a=20 topic or area that interests you, scan down the headings printed in=20 CAPITAL letters on the left hand margin. If you = find it=20 then a simple click will take you directly to the beginning of that = section.=20

If you want to=20 get closer to you topic look through the minor=20 headings that follow the main ones and select from there, = again by=20 clicking with your mouse. 

For example;=20 if you are thinking of staying in Jimbaran Bay and want to know what = there is to=20 do there, then look down the left side until you find JIMBARAN BAY = DISTRICT, then look across to the minor headings on the = right=20 hand side of the heading and find =91Doing=92. Click on the blue = letters and you=92re=20 almost instantly there. In this instance you will have saved = scrolling=20 through 45 pages.

Another method which=20 you might find quicker if you can't find the word you're looking for is = to use=20 the built-in 'SEARCH' feature. Click on 'Edit' at the top left of the = screen,=20 then click on 'Find' when the menu drops down. In the box that appears = type the=20 word you want to search for and click on the 'Find next' button. = Repeated clicks=20 will cycle you through all of those words in the whole document. Stop of = course=20 when you come to one you think might be what you're looking=20 for.

**  If you have a concern for animals remember the Bali Animal Welfare = Association,=20 Ph 981 490. They have an animal ambulance welfare service (free) and = will attend=20 to a call for any sort of animal. http://www.bawabali.com/. =

1. = CONTACTS=20 AND INFORMATION =96=20 Beginning with an alphabetical list.

A.    Airport porter = rates =96 Airport=20 lounges - Airport = Taxis =96=20 Airport Bag=20 Storage =96 Visa-On-Arrival at the airport (see 'Visa' in 'V' below- = Airline=20 contacts - Astronomy = =96 Art =96 Art = tutoring - Art = shopping and=20 Artists' supplies - Allergies; = see also=20 Cane = Mites - Anti-bacterial=20 wipes; personal hygiene - risky = ATM=92s risks=20 - Accommodat= ion=20 including how to do it safely  - Amed,=20 Candi Dasa & Tulamben - Adopta = Coop - Amimal=20 welfare -

B.    Bali = Belly (See=20 also Yakult & Sports drinks below.) - Toilet = paper - Bargaining and Fixed = Price=20 shops =96 Books= of and=20 about Bali =96 Book=20 shops (See also 'Dictionaries' and 'Maps', below.) - Indo National=20 Geographic - For Blondes and = brunettes = and redheads = but not for=20 bald people =96 Traditional healers; =91Balians=92 = - Bike = tours - Bicycles = - Blood = donors -=20 Balinese names -=20 Baby = gifts - BIWA/Bali = International=20 Women's Association - Beads - Bualu, =20 Tanjung= =20 Benoa & Nusa Dua - Bedugul - = Bali = Barat=20 National Park - Bathers, = stock and=20 made-to-order - Bathing in local = springs -=20 Bicycle = parts -=20 Boat = rides, out=20 to the reefs to surf or just for a ride along the shore - Buying property - = Baby=20 sitting services - Bombing=20 orphans - Local's banking = -

C.    Contacts=20 and emergency information - Camera = Repairs=20 =96 Cane = Mites and=20 local medicines - Charities = and=20 Orphanages =96 Gifts for Children<= /A> =96 Chil= dren's=20 clothes - Laundry = services - Childre= n's=20 food - Children'= s=20 gifts - Travelling with children (see Bali with Kidz in "K" below.) = Hire laptops -=20 Computer Softwar= e =20 - Pre = owned=20 computers to donate to sponsored children, orphanages or schools - = WiFi = networks (See=20 Internet below.) =96 CD and DVD = virus -=20 Consulates (you=20 can perhaps feel more secure if you register your travel plans at this = link.) -=20 Chiropracto= r=20 - Cuts & scratches, see 'F', below. - Child=20 minding services -  = https://www.orao.dfat.gov.au/orao/weborao.nsf/homepage?Openpage=20 ) - Crime/Bag=20 snatchers/Crook = money=20 changers - Changing cash - = Credit = cards -=20 Cultural things to remember - = Some common words = - Craft = supplies=20 - CANDI=20 DASA, Amed & Tulamben -  Cycle = tours - Carvings in=20 stone - Ceremonies,= =20 religious and cultural  - Large = size=20 clothing - cloth=20 including ikat and songket - Cossies, See 'Bathers' above, - Charities, = see=20 Orphanages, below -

D.    Drivers = including=20 vehicle hire, motor bike and mini bus - Drinking - = Diseases & Injections =96 Doctors = & Dentists = etc. =96 Dogs = =96 Donated = gifts &=20 goods (BIWA) =96 Drug risks in = Bali - Delicacies - DEET - No DEET - = Dictionarie= s -=20 Driving = yourself - Departure = tax -=20 Dress = modestly=20 - temple dress - Doing = things - District=20 information specific info for each district - Bali's District=20 Information in brief - Details of the DISTRICTS -=20 Denpasar,=20 Sanur & Lembongan Island - Diving = & snorkelling=20 - Duty = Free=20 allowances - Disabled= access=20 accommodation -

E.    Emergency=20 phone numbers =96 Be a blood = donor in=20 Bali - Eye = Clinic =96 Electrical<= /A>=20 supply and connection adaptors. =96 Ele= ctrical=20 appliances and equipment - Electrical = adaptors - Ear=20 infections - Eating - Eating = vegetarian=20 - Eating=20 delicacies - Take-away = food - Educational=20 sponsorships -

F.    Furniture;=20 sources and quality =96 Freight = home - Fishing - = Big = Game=20 fishing and little fishing - Fishing=20 Tackle shops - a Bali = First-Aid=20 kit =96 Cuts = &=20 scratches - Food=20 - Food for children (See 'C' above.) - Flowers - = Flags = (Umbul=20 umbul or Umble umble) - Fixed = price=20 shops -

G.    Golf =96 = Gifts =96 = Gifts for = children -=20 Gift = wrapping - Glasses = &=20 spectacles - Donating = old=20 glasses - Getting = about =96=20 Gilimanuk -=20 Galungan = ceremony=20 (see 'Ceremonies' above) -

H.    Health = protection=20 (including head lice infections) =96 Hospital= care=20 - Sex risks/HIV/AIDS -=20 See also Cane Mites and allergies, above, and Jellyfish stings, below. = =96 Hygiene = (See also=20 'Anti-bacterial wipes' in 'A' above.) =96 Hairdressin= g=20 equipment - Hairdressers - = Traditional healers; =91Balians=92 = - Hiring=20 vehicles/Self=20 drive/ motor=20 bikes - Herit= age=20 sites - Handbags - = Hot = springs - Hearing = Aids -=20 Handicapped access See 'Disabled, above. -

I.    Internet etc =96 see =91Internet = &=20 mobile phones=92, number 10, below. - Injections - Insect=20 repellent (See also DEET, above.) - Internet = Travel bookings - Travel=20 insurance - Indonesian Rupiah<= /A> - International = Women's=20 Association - Information=20 about various districts - Independence=20 Day - Importers=20 and Shipping -

J.    Jellyfish = stings =96=20 Jewellery = and jewelle= ry=20 repairs and jewellery making course- Jimbaran = Bay=20 & Beach -

K.    Kites - Kite = makers - Kuta=20 & Tuban - Kerobokan,=20 Seminyak=20 & Legian - Kuningan  (see 'Ceremonies' above) - Kayaks - To = Bali with = Kidz -=20

L.    Lawyer =96 = Notary - = Language = help - Don't=20 lose your temper&= nbsp; -=20 Legian,=20 Seminyak & Kerobokan - Lembongan=20 Island - Nusa = Lembongan=20 - Lovina<= /A>=20 & Singaraja - Lombok - Large = clothes=20 and shoes for women and men - Laundry - =

M.    Maps - Mosquitos = =96 Midwife - = Money & = 'as-new' = notes - Don't = change money at home -  Money = exchange=20 - Changing Cash (See Cash, above.) - Changing Traveller's cheques (See = 'T',=20 below.) - Local=20 banks - Money=20 scams & credit card fraud - Crook = money=20 changers - Good money=20 changers - Menjangan = Island=20 - Night = Markets - Musical=20 Instruments - Metal = signs -=20 local medicines = (see Cane Mites in 'C' above) - Models (See 'Radio C' below - =

N.    Notaries - = Nurse - Names of = Balinese -=20 Nyepi Day = - Ngaben=20 (the death ceremony) see 'Ceremonies' above - Nusa = Dua,=20 Bualu & Tanjung Benoa - Nusa = Lembongan=20 - Negara - North = Bali,=20 west, centre and east - Bali Barat National = Park -=20 The National=20 Geographic magazine, Indo language version - Mobile = Phones.=20 See special section, 'Internet and Mobiles' -

O.    Orphanages and Charities;= see also=20 'Foundations' -=20 Bombing=20 orphans; (or search here for 'Adopta') -  =91Gifts=92 in = =91Remember -=20 Cultural things', below., - Optometrist - Odalan = ceremony - Oleh oleh = and other=20 gifts - Religious offerings (see http://pepproject.com/ourwork/ourworkENG/smes/credi= tcircles/canang/canang%20story.htm.=20 -

P.    Photography/= cameras=20 =96 Digital=20 camera downloads =96 Digital = camera memory=20 virus. - Printing = business=20 cards, T-shirts, caps etc =96 Wrapping Paper for = gifts =96 Pottery =96 = Prohibited = imports=20 from Bali =96 Pearls=20 =96 Pets - = Pet = Fashions=20 - Paediatric= ian -=20 APS = film - Passport = risks=20 - Some = prices - Places to = visit -=20 Places to stay (See 'Accommodation' above.) - Philatel= y,=20 Stamps and postcode= s -=20 Property = purchase=20 - Plaques (see 'Metal signs' above.) - Tourist Police; new = initiative=20 -

Q.    Quarantine -

R.    Rupiah - Rips - Remember = these=20 cultural things - Radio = controlled=20 models and toy cars - Religious = ceremonies=20 -

S.    Shopping; see the SHOPPING = heading below a=20 bit and the SHOPPING sections in each of the District Information = sections. Just=20 scroll down. - Sarongs - = Schooling -=20 Driving = yourself =96 Sex =96=20 Sunscreen = =96=20 Sports Shoes=20 and shoe warehouse and shops - Shoe size=20 conversion charts - Scams of various kinds; See MONEY section just = below=20 this one. - Spectacles = and=20 contacts =96 Shipping. = =96 Swimming = safety. =96=20 Surfing - Surfing=20 lessons - Surfers=20 Warning - Sports = drinks -=20 School = gifts -=20 Shopping - = Sales - Super = markets -=20 Safe = drinking -=20 Seminyak,=20 Legian=20 & Kerobokan - Sanur,=20 & Denpasar=20 - Singara= ja=20 & Lovina - Stone = carving=20 - Springs -=20 Postage stamps - Signs = cast in=20 metal - Surf=20 boards - Sponsoring=20 children's education - Skates and skateboards = -

T.    Tattoos, = permanent=20 & temporary =96 Toilets =96 = Toilet = paper - Transport = - Travel = Agents =96=20 Internet = travel - Travel=20 Insurance; Don=92t leave home without it! =96 Traditional healers; = =91Balians=92 = - Trekking - = Trekking=20 and lake=20 fishing - Tap=20 water - Traveller's=20 cheques-Changing (See also 'Wartels'.) - Tipping - A = day trip that's a bit = different=20 - Things = to do=20 - Places to=20 go - Town=20 information - Tuban & = Kuta -=20 Tanjung= =20 Benoa - Tulamben,=20 Amed=20 & Candi Dasa - Touring by = bike -=20 Take-away = food -=20 Telephone dial= ling=20 codes - 'Phone=20 home' for free - Tupperware see the Denpasar shopping section. - =

U.    Umble = umbles - Ubud -

V.    VCDs, DVDs, = MP3s, CDs=20 etc. =96 DVD virus=20 alert =96 portable DVD PLAYERS are fairly cheap and a good buy if you = stay in=20 hotels  where there is only Indo TV - Vegetarian = food -=20 Vets = -  Visiting - = Places=20 recommended - Visa-On-= Arrival=20 at the airport -

W.   Tap water = - Weddings = and Bali wedding=20 photographers - World Herit= age=20 Sites =96 Wine - Wartels - = Words and = phrases - Wooden wares = - Western = Bali -=20 Wheelchairs<= /A>=20 & chair-friendly places - Watch = repairs -=20 Wi-Fi - Waterfalls - Welfare=20 of sick or injured animals -

X.    X-rays - =

Y.    Yakult & = Sports=20 drinks - 

Z.    As far as I know there are no Zebras = in Bali but=20 this little bit of information just fills up the alpha list.

 

2. MONEY - = Including=20 =96

1.    Rupiah = coins, notes and =91candy = change=92 =96

2.    Money = Changing=20 - Safe=20 money changing =96 Use 'Wartels',&nb= sp;=20 especially for Traveller's Cheques - 'As-new' = notes only =96=20 Don=92= t change=20 at home =96 Airport=20 changing =96

3.    Tipping =96 = an account=20 to help=20 friends in Bali -

4.    Money Scams - = and a crook=20 moneychangers list =96 Forgery = risk - Land, house and = business=20 share scams -

5.    Passport=20 security =96 Bag = snatchers =96=20 Credit = card=20 security =96 Cash to = get home=20 =96 Check in = to=20 your airline to secure your seat. -

6.    Keep a perspective = when=20 bargaining =96 School = fees and=20 donations to charities = - Calculator = risk -=20 Risky = ATM's -=20 Shoppers Cheat=20 Sheet - On-line currency=20 converter - Local = banks -=20

3. REMEMBER = =96=20 Cultural things including; 

1.   Balinese Castes and = Names - = Gifts - = Wrapping papers = and=20 stationery - Do=92s = and Don=92ts -=20 Personal = Dress=20 - Stay in=20 control, remain calm! =96 Flags and = decorated=20 fronds - Street=20 offerings near shops and homes- Cremations.

2.    Orphanages<= /A>=20 (Opens in a separate web page). See also =91CHARITIES=92 in the = =91CONTACTS AND=20 INFORMATION=92, above.

3.    Art, in all = forms, is a=20 large part of Balinese life.

4.    World= Heritage=20 sites. -

5.    Nyepi Day = (the day of=20 silence) and Ogoh-ogoh = =96 Odalan and = =91Full Moon=92=20 parties. - Independence=20 Day -

4. SAYING =96 = Everyday=20 Language prompts that will make you doubly welcome in = Bali.

5. SHOPPING - = Including the following (and also see the individual shopping = sections in=20 each District information pages further below). Probably every traveller = to=20 Bali, not just the Bali Newbie, will at some time ask, 'How much is that = really=20 worth?' The answer might just be at My=20 Bali Guide, a new ('06) Bali site with a current price list for = everything=20 in Bali.
In '09 we discovered Kampung Bali, a recent = warehouse-type=20 place with racks and counters and shelves of an unbelievable array of = goods. A=20 fanatical shopper I know had three little basket carriers to follow her = around=20 and ferry her selections back to the checkout! Jl Merta Nadi No77X, = Kuta, Bali.=20 Its not far from the Bali Bakery. http://www.ready-to-buy.com/.=20

1.    Supermarket= s =96=20 Opening = hours =96 Sales -Childre= n=92s=20 food =96 Chil= dren=92s=20 clothes =96 Cloths including ikat and songket - Orchids =96 = Clothing = size=20 conversion tables - Large = sizes=20 -  shoe=20 size conversion tables - Shoes - Medicines = - Factory = outlets and=20 'seconds' shops - Laundry - =

2.    Fashion hand bags = =96 Fashion=20 for = pets=20 - Spa=20 products - Surf = boards -=20

3.     Gold &=20 Jewellery =96 Gold = prices - Wood ware, = pests and=20 Customs - www.geocities/mcshop_bali/dvd -

4.    Softwar= e=20 (computer, games, CDs, VCRs etc) =96 Electrical appliances -

5.    Buttons, Sequins = &=20 Beads =96 Craft = supplies=20 - Temple umbrellas = and flags=20 (=91Umble umbles=92) - musical=20 instruments -

6.    Some prices (2000 = to 2002)=20 =96

7.    Spectacles =96 Donating = glasses - Mirrors - =

8.     Fishing=20 stores - Bike shops -

6. EATING =96 = Enjoyably=20 and with safety. =96 Including -

1.    Personal = hygiene =96 Who=92s = Cooking=20 Tonight? =96 Vegetarian =96 Vegemite - =

2.     Wine, both = local and=20 imported and purchasing it in Bali =96 Tax,=20 service charges and commissions =96

3.     The Bali Travel Forum and other = locally=20 assembled restaurant=20 guides=96 Steak =96=20 Bread - =

4.     Vegetarian. One of=20 the notable vegetarian restaurants is =91Aromas=92, = in Kuta.

5.    Local fruits are = highly=20 recommended =96 Balinese names for = foods =96=20 Desserts = =96 Kaki Lima = (food=20 carts) =96

6.    Delicacies -

7.    Donations to Gloria=92s = Crisis Care=20 Centre or the Helen Flavel Foundation. See=20 also =91Charities=92= .

7. DRINKING = =96 It=92s a=20 delight when it=92s done for pleasure, but in the tropics it must also = be done for=20 your safety.

1.    Sammi and Sussi=92s Forum = =93Bar=94 at=20 Legian Beach.

        Also = S&S&S on the=20 southern end of Sanur beach, where you can see the sun rise over Lombok = and see=20 it set over Jimbaran. Look for Nyomans Bar on the beach and claim a bar = stool=20 for the night.

2.    Water, = cool drinks,=20 straws and ice =96

3.     Beers -

4.    Taking = alcohol=20 into Bali =96 Duty = free=20 limit (note that the limit into Indonesia has not been effected by = the=20 recent increased limit back of 2.25 litres when coming back  into=20 Australia.) -

5.     Local = wines and=20 outlets - Imported = wines=20 -

8. VISITING = =96 Some=20 recommended =91hot spots=92.

9. THINGS TO = DO -=20 Some common some exotic.

River Rafting. = There are a=20 couple to choose from, one has far fewer steps up and down to the river = than the=20 others. Bad reports about 'Bali Rafting' including posing as 'Bali = International=20 Rafting' in "05. Bali International Rafting, Tegala-waja Rafting and = Sobek seem=20 more reliable and better equipped. =96 Read a local Newspaper,= the=20 Jakarta Post if you're an 'English only' reader. - Helicopter flights=20 =96 see a Movie =96 = take=20 an ocean = cruise by=20 day or night =96 play at WaterBom = Park (now=20 known as =91Water Park=92) =96 go to the dances at = Batubulan.=20 (There are many others, in almost every village. Use the 'Edit' - 'Find' = feature=20 and enter 'dance' to go from one entry to the next until you find what = you=20 want.) Try the One of the best collection of birds anywhere. Over 1500 = birds=20 covering over 250 species at Taman Burung near Ubud. 40 min by taxi from = Kuta.=20 Look at www.alphalink.c= om.au/~grum/bali/birdpark/=20 .
If you=92re on the western side of the island, that is Jimbaran, = Tuban, Kuta,=20 Legian, Seminyak, Tanah Lot and all the way around to the Java = ferry=20 terminal at Gilimanuk, even in Singaraja and Lovina, you=92ll = see those=20 fabulous, tropical, romantic sunsets of glowing colours across the sea. = No doubt=20 you=92ll have a drink or two in the best of company (yourself at least) = and hope=20 to see the iridescent green cap on top of the sun as the last of it = disappears=20 below the horizon. If you=92re very lucky however, and you=92re staying = on the=20 eastern side (Nusa Dua, Benoa, Sanur, Candi Dasa, Amed), you=92ll be = ideally=20 situated to see the even more romantic and spectacular sunrise. Because = you have=20 to get up before dawn, of course, these are nowhere near as popular or = as=20 commonly appreciated as the sunsets but, in the company of spouse, = friend,=20 lover, or all three, and a bottle of cool champagne, you will always = cherish the=20 memories as you watch Bali come to life.
Other activities, such as = the=20 popular snorkelling<= /A> or diving, = (Again there=20 are many others, in almost every village. Use the 'Edit' - 'Find' = feature and=20 enter your search word to go from one entry to the next until you find = what you=20 want.) are in the District sections. Snorkelling gear can be hired for = Rp20,000=20 per day per person, or for much more if you=92re not good at bargaining. =
If=20 you=92ve ever despaired at the amount of waste plastic flooding Bali and = would=20 like to help in an occasional cleanup look at the web site of the=20 Environmental Education Centre, Bali. (P P L H). http://www.pplhbali.or.id/. =
Play golf =96 if you=92ve a healthy bank = balance. There=20 are some magnificent courses along the coast and in the mountains but = the fees=20 are high. Contact John Clarke at Bali Discount Golf (http://www.golfbali.com/) for the = best=20 advice and prices. There are 2 golf courses on Lombok where the = fees, as in=20 parts of Indonesia outside of Bali, are quite reasonable. Have a look at = www.golfindonesia.com/courses/courselist.php?prov=3Dwest= %20Nusa%20Tengara.=20
If you=92re really crazy you can hire a motor=20 bike, even large 1200cc ones (and up to a Harley if you own one of = these=20 back home). You=92ll need an international licence. PT Ogi Motor, Jl = Bypass Ngurah=20 Rai 27X Tuban ph 766 101 or 766 102.
Kites=20 are a constant feature of the Bali skies. There is a huge international = festival=20 of kites around July each year. Kids (big and small) will be dumbfounded = at the=20 sight.
Visit the new (ish) Monument to the Balinese People=92s=20 Struggle. It sounds a bit communistic but it=92s really a well = presented=20 history of Bali from 1945 to independence. In the Niti Mandala Park, = Renon=20 District, Denpasar.
Take Surfing=20 lessons. Blue Ocean Surf School on Legian Beach by Jayakarta = Hotel/Jl Double 6/ Benny=92s Restaurant etc. About 10 am. E-mail Slim at = baliwaves.com. He will give you current info. Check out www.schoolofsurf.com/= locations.html=20 . An alternative might be Shane Horan=92s School of Surfing on the beach = near=20 Benny=92s Caf=E9, Legian. Your first lesson will be until you can stand = up =96 no=20 matter how long it takes. Very well supervised.
WARNING: Watch the = rips along Kuta-Legian-Seminyak beaches. Tourists = regularly=20 drown here (14 in '05 with 309 logged rescues, 403 drowning in 33 years = shows=20 that some never learn.) and there are other dangerous beaches waiting to = trap=20 those who are a bit careless for only a moment.
Surfers new to the = island=20 should check http://www.baliwaves.com/=20 for locations, conditions and recent reports. Other sites include http://www.surftheearth.com.au/<= /A>.=20 Which has accommodation tips as well.
If you=92re into = Adventure Trekking in pristine jungles, get in touch = with Bali=20 Bluey at www.wonde= rfulbali.com/kutilang/albums/index.htm=20 .
Go to Java, but be a little cautious. Jogya is close = and has=20 a more tolerant reputation than larger centres. See the old palace, the = water=20 garden, art galleries that will take your mind back through centuries. = There are=20 fascinating temples at Prambanan and Borobudur =96 fascinating even if = you think=20 that you=92re =91all templed out=92. There are very ancient ruins = steeped in history=20 on the plateau of Dieng. Pantris beach is the blueprint for all other = tropical=20 beaches. See Mount Merapi. Appreciate the friendliness of the country = peoples,=20 the honesty of the traders and the peaceful, quieter, more relaxing = atmosphere.=20 There is white-water rafting on the Citarik River and more exotic starts = such as=20 off-road adventuring, rafting, jungle trekking, even paintball wars if = you=92re=20 that way inclined.
Bike tours, mainly = downhill thank=20 goodness, are arranged by the Ayung River Rafting Company. There are = three tours=20 to choose from beginning at either the Kintamani volcano rim, from = Batukaru=20 mountain or from Sangeh village through the monkey forest.  In late = '05=20 some concern was expressed about the safety and guidance of Bali = Adventure Tours=20 bike rides.
* Bali Budaya Tours also has a cycling option. Contact = them at bulanindah@dps.centrin.net.= id.=20 Wayan Budiana.
* Some hotels also arrange bike tours through local = villages.=20 Ask at your hotel desk.
* Bike_Baik Bali run bicycle tours which are = almost=20 entirely downhill. An easy and excellent way of seeing the countryside, = villages=20 and villagers close-up. 0361 978 052 or e-mail wayansujana@yahoo.com. = www.balibike.com.=20 Rp350,000.

* Bali Bintang Cycling Tours is similar to = Baik Bali.=20 Part profits go to the local people.
* Sobek, the well known Tour = group can=20 be contacted at http://www.sobekbali.com/ or sales@sobek.co.id.
* Bali Best = Cycling=20 is a fairly new group run by four lads with plenty of experience in = other=20 companies but now on their own to do it better. $ hours from Mt Batur to = the=20 beach south of Gianyar with breakfast and lunch provided. http://www.balicycling.com/ or = Ph +62=20 (361) 075 992 or 0812 3633 753.
* Mida has gained a good reputation = for=20 organising entry to events and places, half day tours and whole = holidays. She is=20 WMW Tours, Jl Tukad Unda No8, Renon - Denpasar. Ph ++ 62 361 744 2956, = e-mail wahyatur@indosat.net.id. =
* A new=20 kid on the block that we heard about in '09 is Celebrity Cycling Tours. = They=20 start from the very edge of the Batur volcano. It starts with a = breakfast before=20 free-wheeling down the slopes from Penlokan village past tea and coffee=20 processors, temples, villages and rice paddies to finish in Ubud for a = sumptuous=20 lunch. '09 costs were Rp350,000 or US$40. Children under 12 were = Rp250.000 or=20 US$30.They pick up in Nusa, Sanur, Kuta and Ubud daily. Ph (62 361) 912 = 7686 or=20 (62) 81 236 247 665. E-mail info@celebritycyclingtour.c= om -=20 http://www.celebritycycling= tour.com/.=20

* C-Bali Bike rides has a tour around Kedisan in the = Kintamani=20 caldera and Lake Batur. Run by Rach(ael?) and Sibran. Not so long as = some of the=20 others but some hills that were very manageable for un-fit cyclists. = Takes in a=20 lot of different local scenery. an overnight stay at the Segara Hotel in = Kedisan=20 (down at lake-side in the caldera) can be part of the package with canoe = trris,=20 hot springs, meals etc. Can be more than just a bike ride if you want it = to be.=20 Check their web site for details - http://c-bali.com/home.html = .
There=20 are Reptile and Bird Parks side by side in Singapadu, a village near = Batubulan.=20 Joint entry tickets are cheaper than two singles. The main feedings are = early in=20 the morning and a secondary one at 11 am. There is a Butterfly Park at = Wanasari,=20 a small village north west of Denpasar and north of Tabanan.
Hot springs are a feature of many = places in Bali,=20 not too surprising considering the volcanic nature of the area. Try = Banyuwedang Natural Hot Spring - Pemuteran, 60 km = west of=20 Singaraja and located partially on the grounds of the Mimpi Resort = Menjangan, http://www= .mimpi.com/mimpi-menjangan-banyuwedang.html,=20 http://www= .balilife.com/mimpimenjangan/activities.htm.=20 Yeh Panes - Penetahan, http://www.indonesi= aphoto.com/article46.html,=20 http:/= /www.baliaga.com/english/tour/e_wst3_hotspring.html.=20 Toya Bungkah Hot Springs - Mt Batur, 8km from Penelokan. A public = bathing spot=20 frequented mostly by Indonesians. Banjar Hot Springs - Banjar Tega,10 km = west of=20 Lovina. There are photos at: http://www.wright-photo.= com/banjar1.htm.=20 = http://baliforfamilies.com/banjar_hot_springs_are_in_the_hi.htm.=20
Hot Springs in=20 Bali:http://members.ld.infoseek.co.jp/k_yokoi/bali.html#Holyhotsprings.You=20 can take a tethered ride in a hot air balloon in Nusa Dua. Called = 'Bali=20 Eye' the rides are about a quarter of an hour for US$15 adult and US$10 = for=20 kidz.
Waterfalls abound in = Bali and if=20 you click 'EDIT' at the top of this screen, select 'Find" in the drop = down menu,=20 type 'waterfall' into the box and click on the 'Find next' button you = will=20 immediately go to the first of many references to waterfalls in this = document.=20 Clicking 'Find next' repeatedly will take you to all of the references, = one by=20 one. You might also like to visit http://micbali.proboards21.com/index.cgi?b= oard=3Dplaces&action=3Ddisplay&thread=3D1371 where you will find more = information.

The Bali Safari & = Marine=20 park has a great following, particularly but not exclusively = amongst=20 kidz. On Jl By Pass Prof Dr Ida Bagus Mantra, Km 19.8, GIANYAR. Ph (+62 = 361) 950=20 000. http://www.balisafarimarine= park.com/.=20

10. INTERNET / = MOBILE=20 PHONES. Including post codes, stamps and direct dialling=20 codes.

11. TOILETS, LOOS = AND=20 DUNNIES ! =96 A =91convenient=92 list for your comfort and to = avoid additional=20 distress.

12. DRIVERS. -=20 Including =96

1.    Taxis - Blue Bird = taxis -=20 public and = hire = transport =96 Fares =96 Hire = =96 Shuttle = Bus =96=20

2.    Tourists= =20 driving =96 Hiring motor = bikes=20 - Tourist police=20 and the threat of corruption -

3.    RECOMMENDED = DRIVERS=20 and the general costs of=20 getting around.

13. TRAVEL TIMES=20 & DISTANCES between common destinations.

13. ACCOMMODAT= ION =96=20 General information lists with some comments if available.=20

For recent reviews of hotels, restaurants, shops etc, with = pictures=20 to make informed choices try Mic=92s Bali =96 http://balimic.tripod.com/ . =

14. RECOMMENDED=20 PLACES  but some of unknown location.

15. BALI = & THE=20 BALINESE IN BRIEF.

A potted=20 description of the origins, history, life style, religion and character = of Bali=20 and its citizens.

 

 

DISTRICT INFORMATION CONTENTS=20 LIST.

These entries include information, covering Shopping, = Eating,=20 Drinking, Visiting, Doing, Drivers, People and Accommodation (both = standard and=20 cheap) for each district.

Generally the latest recommendations are at the end of each = list in=20 the District section but long-standing, out standing and/or regular=20 recommendations tend to move towards the top of each list.

# 1 =96 TUBAN and = KUTA=20 DISTRICT SECTION. =96

Kuta is the centre of the original 'surfer tourist' = industry in Bali.=20 The surrounding district developments that are now attached to Kuta, or = nearly=20 so, are Tuban and Jimbaran Bay which is cut off only by the airport. To = the=20 north are the joining districts of Legian, Seminyak and now Kerobokan = which=20 reaches to within a kilometre or two of the capital city Denpasar. In = the only=20 other direction, towards the east, is Sanur on the opposite shore. =
Most=20 tourists come to Bali, and perhaps reluctantly leave their air = conditioned hotel=20 room and swim-up pool bar, only to shop and there is no doubt that Kuta = caters=20 to that wish. Eating, drinking, shopping, entertainment, relaxing and = bodily=20 pampering are the local industries here, from the beaches to the top = levels of=20 the department stores and supermarkets.

1.    Shopping= -=20 (Leather /=20 Tailors /=20 Silver= / Jewelle= ry /=20 Watches /=20 CDs=20 and software / fishing=20 gear / etc ) =96

2.     Eating= =96 There=20 are over 80 entries here and there are probably another 80 that could be = entered.

3.     Drinking= =96=20

4.     Visiting= =96=20

5.     Doing = =96

6.     People= =96

7.     Accommodation =96 (Standa= rd=20 and Cheap<= /A>).

#=20 2 =96 LEGIAN=20 and SEMINYAK DISTRICT SECTION =96

This section includes recent information on Canggu and Kerobokan, an=20 emerging tourist area north of Seminyak. It has been said that the = further you=20 get away from Kuta the more upmarket lifestyles become and whilst I = would not=20 want to engage in any inter-district rivalries I have to say that = walking north=20 along Jl Raya Kuta - Jl Legian - Jl Seminyak - Jl Basangkasa which = passes Jl=20 Laksmana, (often called 'Oberoi Street' from the grand hotel at the = beach end or=20 'Eat Street' from the new restaurants that are springing up like = mushrooms) and=20 becomes Jl Kerobokan, it seems to me that the shops are a little = classier and=20 the restaurants a little more refined.
Following the terrorist's = bombing of=20 the Sari Club in Kuta there seems to have been a movement of nightlife = to=20 Seminyak.

1.    Shopping - (Leather = / Tailors = /  Pearls / = Clothing / Handcraft= s /=20 CD/Software=20 / Pottery = / pets - etc )=20 =96

2.    Eating = =96 There=20 are over 60 entries here. Jl Laksmana (becoming known locally as 'Eat = Street')=20 in Kerobokan=20 is worth investigating.

3.    Drinking =96=20 Sammi and Sussi=92s =93BaliTravelForum=20 Bar=94.

4.    Visiting =96

5.    Doing - =

6.    Drivers= -

6.    People = =96

7.    Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap).

#=20 3 - JIMBARAN=20 BEACH DISTRICT SECTION. =96

Jimbaran Bay has several beaches, Jimbaran Beach is one in = the middle=20 of the bay. Muaya Beach is at the southern end near the Bali = Intercontinental=20 and Four Seasons Hotels. The great divergence of cultures that tourism = has=20 wrought in Bali can be seen by walking the beach from the Four Seasons = Resort at=20 the southern end to the local fish market and boat harbour at the = northern end=20 by the airport runway. It is interesting to see, however, that sunset = hides the=20 culture chasm and all can be seen enjoying the seafood dining on the = beach; the=20 tourists enjoying the spectacular sunsets and frequently ordinary food = and the=20 locals enjoying the easy money that rolls in.

1.    Shopping

2.    Eating = =96

3.    Drinking= =96

4.    Visiting =96

5.    Doing =96 =

6.    Drivers = -

7.    People = =96

8.    Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap).

#=20 4 =96 NUSA,=20 BENOA and BUALU DISTRICT SECTION. =96

Nusa Dua means two islands but very few of those who now = call=20 themselves locals can point out the two islands. They are really not = islands at=20 all, unless the tides are exceptionally high, but two lumpy headlands = normally=20 joined to the land by sand bridges. One juts out from the southern end = of the=20 beach at the Melia Bali Hotel and the other from the northern end of the = adjacent Grand Hyatt Bali. There is a story of my = morning=20 visit to the former, part of a long diary of our = 2000holiday.
 The Nusa=20 Dua enclave was planned to avoid the haphazard development that will = forever=20 plague Kuta Beach. The area was chosen because it was virtually a = wasteland (and=20 presumably therefore cheap to purchase) and because there was seen to be = a need=20 to draw tourism away from Kuta in the boom years. Because Kuta had such = a cheap=20 reputation it was thought best not to directly compete with what might = be called=20 the 'surfer tourists' and the concept of 'elite tourism' was formed. = This meant=20 high-paying, mainly Japanese and American tourists, thus attracting the=20 prosperous American hotel chains with their 5*+ accommodations. =
Anything=20 less than sumptuous Balinese involvement was kept out (except for the = very small=20 fishing villages, one between the two headlands and the other just north = of the=20 Nusa Dua Beach Hotel which was due to be overbuilt in 2000 but will = perhaps be=20 saved by the downfall of tourism following the Kuta terrorist bombing. = The=20 nearest thing tourists in Nusa Dua can get to the 'real Bali' is either = the=20 village of Bualu which is within walking distance from the main hotels = and is=20 where many of the hotels' workers rent rooms, or Tanjung Benoa, (the = Benoa=20 Peninsula) just north of the enclave and a $2 taxi ride away. In either = place=20 you can find more typical Asian foods and goods at more typical Asian = prices but=20 this is still a long way from the original 'country Bali'.

1.    Shopping= - in=20 Nusa is expensive but gets considerably cheaper the further away from = the hotels=20 you walk.

2.    Eating = =96 Although=20 are nearly 20 entries here, there are certainly many more in the = district.

3.    Drinking =96

4.    Visiting = =96

5.    Doing =96 =

6.    People = =96

7.    Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap).

#=20 5 =96 SANUR, =20 DENPASAR & LEMBONGAN=20 ISLAND DISTRICT SECTIONS. =96 

Sanur was the centre of tourism when the boom really took = off after=20 WW II and the massive Bali Beach Hotel was built with Japanese war = reparation=20 funds. Standing on the beach at the Sindhu Markets and looking north I = always=20 think what a good thing it was that someone recognised the obscenity of = this=20 development and proposed that no future building on the island should be = taller=20 than a coconut palm tree.
Sanur is still quieter than Kuta (a = blessing) and=20 has shopping and eating that is just as good; there is simply not so = much of it=20 in your face.
Denpasar is the capital of the island. It is a shopping = centre=20 but also a business and government centre too.
Lembongan Island and = the other=20 lesser known ones of Penida and Ceningan attract a growing number of = tourists to=20 the relaxed life, the diving (which can be dangerous during flood tides = if=20 you're not prepared for the currents), snorkelling and water sports. = Other=20 attractions are the lifestyles of the locals and the seaweed farming = that seems=20 to sustain their economy.

  1. Shopping= =96=20 Wholesale Watches=20 / Money=20 changers / Leather = / Tailors = / Spectacles=20 / Gold = / VCDs, = CDs,=20 software etc. / Markets = /=20 Curtains & Fab= rics=20 and curtains including Silks / = Fishing=20 Tackle / Camera = Repairs / Perfume = / Ladies=20 shoes - / Freight / Wartel = / Department=20 stores /

  2. Eating = =96 There=20 are over 40 restaurants listed here, mainly in Sanur.

  3. Drinking =96=20

  4. Visiting =96=20

  5. Doing = =96

  6. Drivers -

  7. People = =96

  8. Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap=20 and NOT=20 cheap!).

#=20 6 - UBUD = DISTRICT=20 SECTION. =96

Ubud is about 30 kilometres north of the airport and about = a 40=20 minute drive if you don't shop at the shopping mecca called Sukawati on = the way=20 or the more local markets nearby at Guwang. It's a nice day visit from = the south=20 or if you want to stay there are wide selections available in both=20 accommodations and eating establishments.
Ubud is touted as the 'Arts = Centre'=20 of Bali and if this is so then I guess it depends on what you expect = from an=20 Arts Centre. There are a number of galleries, large and small, from the = well=20 known Neka Museum, the Puri Lukisan collection of art objects and = Antonio=20 Blanco's home and fanciful museum/gallery to the small shops up and down = Monkey=20 Forest and Hanoman roads.
Ubud is more a cultural centre to me, = being close=20 to the old temples, palaces and archaeological sites and the  = museum in and=20 along the river valleys and ridges just a few kilometres to the east and = north.

  1. Shopping = -=20 including Markets, = Silver &=20 Jewellery =96 Crafts = =96 Galleries = =96 Tailor = =96 Home = ware shops -=20

  2. Eating=20 =96 There are over 40 choices here.

  3. Drinking = -

  4. Visiting = =96

  5. Doing=20 =96

  6. Drivers = =96

  7. People - =

  8. Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap).=20

#=20 7 - BEDUGUL = DISTRICT=20 SECTION. =96

Bedugul is a main = town in the=20 central mountain district about 50 Km north of Kuta, Sanur and Denpasar. = It is=20 where the colonials of years gone by sent the family (and themselves if = they=20 could manage it) to avoid the worst of the hot and humid weather. On the = way up=20 from the south have a brief stop at Pacung to see the remarkable views = from the=20 dining room of the Pacung Indah Hotel (on the right) or the old timber = portion=20 of the Pacung Mountain Resort (opposite on the left side of the road) = that dates=20 to the Dutch era, with its olde world 'inclinator' that will take you = down into=20 the deep valley.

A little further up = is the=20 local market at Baturiti on the left. I don't think you'll see another = quite the=20 same in all of Bali.

Bedugul and = Candikuning are=20 almost joined villages at either end of Lake Beratan (or Bratan as the = locals=20 say). Bedugul is associated with 'the temple in the lake', Pura Ulun = Danau, a=20 shared Buddhist and Hindu temple area, but the temple is actually in=20 Candikuning.

Everyone seems to = remember=20 the flower, fruit, vegetable, nuts and spices market at Bedugul, = particularly=20 when the strawberries are in season, but when they've seen the temple = they often=20 turn around and go back to their hotel in the south without recognising=20 Candikuning. I always think that his is a pity because just a bit = further up the=20 road and around to the left are the now divided Lakes Buyan and = Tamblingan, some=20 wondrous scenery with little roadside picnic tables, a great coffee = 'factory' at=20 a roadside cafe named Ngireng Ngewedang, and the peaceful and serene = falls at=20 Munduk.

  1. Shopping =96=20

  2. Eating = -

  3. Drinking -=20

  4. Visiting -=20

  5. Doing - =

  6. Drivers = -

  7. People = =96

  8. Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap).=20

 # 8 =96 LOVINA = and=20 SINGARAJA DISTRICT SECTION. - (Have a look also at the Western Bali = section=20 below.)

Singaraja was=20 known as Buleleng, and is still sometimes referred to in this way by = older=20 Balinese. It is the capital of Buleleng Kabupaten (District), perhaps = the=20 largest of the eight Districts of Bali. Buleleng Kabupaten runs all = across the=20 top of Bali from the west coast to the central north east coast and = southwards=20 almost to the central lakes Tamblingan, Buyan and Bratan. The Kabupaten = were=20 known as Regencies under the Dutch rule and generally coincide with the=20 boundaries of the old Kingdoms. Singaraja was the island capital under = the Dutch=20 rule and the port of entry to the island before the invasion of the = south gave=20 access to harbours at Benoa, Padang Bai and to a lesser extent Kusamba. = Around=20 the old dock area there are still easily recognised signs of those old = times in=20 the streets, the markets, the seamen's temples and the 'house-over-shop' = architecture introduced to the whole island by the Dutch.

Lovina is a quiet=20 resort area with some cheap and some wondrous eateries. The 'black' sand = beaches=20 (grey actually but still sand and not mud) are take off points for early = morning=20 dolphin watching trips and to snorkel the reef. The Bali Sea of these = shores is=20 protected, calm, shallow and warm, encouraging water activities.

  1. Shopping -=20

  2. Eating = =96

  3. Drinking =96=20

  4. Drivers = -

  5. Visiting =96=20

  6. Doing = =96

  7. People = =96

  8. Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap)=20 =96 and to the east of Singaraja towards Candi Dasa -

#=20 8A - THE=20 NORTH EAST COAST  DISTRICT SECTION. - (Have a look also = at the=20 Singaraja/Lovina section above.)

This is the area from Lovina/Singaraja = around the=20 top and 'right hand side' of the island towards Tulamben, Amed and Candi = Dasa. I=20 confess that I do not have personal experience of the area but I am = beginning to=20 collect information from other travellers in preparation for  a = future=20 trip.

  1. Shopping= -

  2. Eating=20 =96

  3. Drinking= =96

  4. Drivers = -

  5. Visiting = =96

  6. Doing=20 =96

  7. People = =96

  8. Accommodation =96 (Standa= rd=20 and=20 Cheap).

#=20 9 - CANDI=20 DASA DISTRICT SECTION. - Also includes Amed, Padang = Bai, Amlapura,= Tirtagangg= a,=20 and Tulamben. -=20

Candi Dasa is on the south east coast of Bali, in the = district of=20 Karangasem (capital city Amlapura), at the northern corner of a fairly=20 deep-water port and at the foot of some very steep foothills of Mount = Agung. On=20 the southern corner of the bay is Padang Bai, in a small inlet which is = the port=20 for large ferries, fuel tankers and cargo ships that ply the routes to = Lombok,=20 Nusa Penida and other Indonesian island ports to the north and east. It = is also=20 the site of a small fishing village that caters to the surfing tourists = and a=20 few mid-range people who come to soak of the tranquil beauty of it's = clear=20 turquoise waters.
If you are taking a ferry at Padang Bai do not let = go of=20 your cases when you leave the transit bus or they will be picked up and = carried=20 onto the ferry for you at an exorbitant fee by 'porters' who are also = stand-over=20 merchants.
Candi Dasa is not a lively place, certainly it will never = threaten=20 the liveliness of Kuta or the night life of Seminyak, but for relaxation = and a=20 range of sights and different locations it is an admirable base. The = eroded=20 beach that fell to the need for lime to be added to building cement is = slowly=20 returning under the influence of the groynes and breakwaters (that may = well have=20 been built using lime concrete from some other reef) and within their = sheltered=20 enclosure there is some easy if not spectacular snorkelling to be = had.
Within=20 an easy days drive is Tenganan, the home of the original Balinese who = have=20 resisted the changes to the pure form of Hinduism that originated from = India via=20 Java. To the north, over the lower slopes of Mount Agung and through the = brilliant greens of the Bugbug rice valleys is the district capital of = Amlapura.=20 Once known as Karangasem the name was changed to hide the town from the = demons=20 that made Mt Agung erupt in 1963, blocking the roads and isolating the = city. A=20 visit to the market and surrounding shops here is really a step into a = view of=20 Balinese life no longer found around the southern tourist areas. =
From=20 Amlapura there is a circular route which can be travelled in either = direction=20 and which will take you past the Rajah's Water Palace at Tirtagganga = ("water of=20 the Ganges'), the spectacular rice terraces around the village of Abang, = through=20 Amed and Bunutan to the spectacular coastal views from  Kusambi = (not=20 Kusamba which is a beach port between Candi Dasa and Sanur), to Seraya = and the=20 Floating Palace at Puri Taman Ujong  being restored in '03. It was = built by=20 the last King of Karangasem, Anak Agung Anglura (whose father wanted him = to=20 always be first on the roll at school), and the same Rajah who had = Tirtagganga=20 constructed. From here the road returns to Amlapura.

  1. Shopping= -=20

  2. Eating = =96

  3. Drinking= -=20

  4. Drivers = -

  5. Visiting= =96=20

  6. Doing = =96

  7. People = =96

  8. Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap).=20 Our experiences at Amed suggest that there is no cheap accommodation = if you=20 want a few luxuries more than the 2* places will offer. =20

# 10 = =96 WESTERN = BALI=20 SECTION.  

It=92s at most 3 hours from Kuta to Gilimanuk in the far = west, with not=20 a lot to see along the way if you believe the maps and a lot of the = travel=20 books, unless you happen to be in Negara when the bull races are on = between=20 August to October. But take the trip and see for yourself, a different = Bali,=20 dryer, more open with kilometres of straight, black sand surfing and = sheltered=20 swimming beaches. It's a place that the surfing crowd have kept to = themselves=20 for too long. Have a look at some pictures from our last Negara trip, one in = '04 and=20 others to the orphanage in '05.

The narrow, flat coastal strip of land between the = mountains of the=20 Barat National Park inland and the sea always reminds me of our home in = Adelaide=20 but the flatter rice and vegetable fields, the coconut groves and the = banana=20 plantations always say 'Bali'.

From Gilimanuk along the north coast to Lovina is another = leisurely 3=20 hours with a even more to see and do along the way.

It's really a shame that more tourists don't venture out = this far,=20 but then again the area would lose many of it's charms and it's easy = living if=20 they did.

  1. Shopping= -

  2. Eating = =96

  3. Drinking= -

  4. Drivers = -

  5. Visiting= =96

  6. Doing = =96

  7. People = -

  8. Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap).=20

# 11 - = LOMBOK DISTRICT=20 SECTION. =96 How will you get = there?=20

Lombok is a frustrating mixture of, and differences to, = Bali. Without=20 doubt it is another in the chain of small, equatorial, volcanic islands = (Gunung=20 Rinjani) in the line between Java and Irian Jaya/Papua New Guinea. = Without doubt=20 in its history it has been influenced by cultural and religious events = on Bali=20 as in the past it has ruled over, and been ruled by, parts of that = island=20 neighbour. Equally without doubt tourists to Lombok can easily feel that = they=20 are in a time warp of Bali 20 years previous. At the same time there are = differences that cannot be ignored for long in this enigmatic place.

Lombok has a majority Muslin religion, adhering closely to = the=20 original tenets of that faith. Here the peaceful Hindus are a minority = but I=20 can't help feeling that, perhaps some young hot-heads aside, the fire of = Lombok's Islam has been tempered by the passive nature of Balinese = influence.=20 Village life, arts and crafts (particularly weaving and pottery) and = family are=20 all important features of life and culture, as in Bali. The 'native' = inhabitants=20 are the Sasaks.
The capital is Mataram, in about the centre of the = western=20 side with the domestic airport nearby. Further north is the main tourist = centre=20 around Sengiggi and further north again are 'the gilis', three offshore = islands=20 which are also a tourist focus. The sea port is at the port of Lembar on = the=20 south west coast, quite a drive to Mataram and even further to = Sengiggi.

  1. Shopping - Pearls =96=20

  2. Eating = =96

  3. Drinking -=20

  4. Drivers = -

  5. Visiting =96=20

  6. Doing = =96

  7. People = -

  8. Accommodation =96 (Standard=20 and Cheap). =20

 

GENERAL INFORMATION =96 Part=20 2.

 

CONTACTS AND=20 INFORMATION =96

Bali is The Island of the Gods, The = Island=20 of Smiles, Paradise Island, and many other wonderful, laudable things = =96 but it=20 is also a =91third world=92 country and if something goes wrong and you = need help=20 then you need to know where to go.
It=92s been said that some of the = following=20 information might be better placed at the end of this file where it=92s = not so =91in=20 your face=92, but I have come to the conclusion that that=92s where it = will not be=20 seen and therefore it might as well not be in the file at all.
It=92s = here=20 where you can find it in case you need it, it=92s not here to put you = off=20 travelling to Bali, which is probably safer than travelling in many = =91first=20 world=92 countries. Be cautious as you would normally be =96 but don=92t = spoil your=20 holiday by unnecessary worry.
If you want to check on the latest = information=20 about shots recommended before undertaking travel in Bali (or elsewhere) = log=20 onto http://www.tmvc.com.au/ in = Oz. Other=20 countries will doubtless have similar sites.

  1. If you get sick your hotel will = call a=20 reputable doctor to come and see you.
    Don=92t delay and risk = ruining your=20 holiday. It might cost you over A$100 but you=92ve got insurance =96 = use it and=20 save your $1000=92s holiday.

  2. PHONE=20 NUMBERS =96
    * Police 110
    * Fire = 113
    * Ambulance=20 118
    * Search & Rescue 51 111
    * Hospitals, Dentists, Blood = Service=20 and other professional services =96 see the following lists. Don't = hesitate to=20 get your hotel to call a local doctor for mini emergencies like cuts , = vomiting, Bali Belly etc. They are responsive, generally western = trained and=20 very competent in treating tourist problems.
    * If you=92re overseas = and want=20 to find out if your risk situation has changed call the Australian = Consular=20 Emergency Service for current information on =91+=92 61 26 261 3305. = From=20 Indonesia (Bali) the =91+=92 is either 001 801 (via Indosat) or 008 = 801 (via=20 SatelIndo). The Telephone Codes pages in the back (usually) of your = local=20 phone book will give you the codes for other = countries.    =20

  3. Operator Assisted = calls within=20 Indonesia (which includes Bali of course) Ph 100 -
    - International = Ph=20 106.
    Directory Information for Bali - Ph 108 or for Indonesia as a = whole Ph=20 106.

  4. Emergency numbers = to home =96=20
    *** Australian Consulate in Canberra (Australia) if you've got = real=20 problems; - 001 61 1300 555 135. If you're on a mobile use a + instead = of the=20 001 at the start. Available 24 hours a day. An alternative number is = +61 2 626=20 13305.
    * Visa Aust 1800 621 199;  Visa International 1800 450=20 346;  Lost Travellers Cheques 1800 127 477;  Master Card = Aust (02)=20 9466 3700;  Master Card International 1800 120 113;  ANZ = Freecall=20 1800 033 844;  BankWest 131 718;  CitiBank 132 484; =20 Commonwealth Bank 132 221;   National Bank 132 265;  St = George=20 Bank 1800 028 208;  Westpac Bank 1800 2300 144;  BankCard = Aust (02)=20 9281 6633;  Medicare Aust 132 001;  CentreLink Fraud line = 137=20 230;  Seniors Card Aust 1300 364 758;  Passport enquiries = 131=20 232.

  5. CBA Aust bank in Jl Teuku = Umar in=20 Denpasar. Transaction fees only $1.50.

  6. **** There is a growing market for tourist cosmetic = procedures=20 in Bali. Be aware that most Ex-pats in Bali also travel overseas (to=20 Australia, Bangkok or Singapore for surgical and dental procedures!!!! = "In=20 Bali disasters are the rule" - success the exception.
    Bali International Medical Centre. Medical = and=20 dental. On the airport By Pass road opposite Matahari Tuban Plaza in = Tuban=20 (not Kuta) and in mid-'05 moving a little further down the street to = 100X Jl=20 Ngurah Rai, Tuban. Ph 228 996 or 761 263. Only 5 mins by taxi from = Kuta BIMC=20 employs expatriate western staff from around the world. Only local = doctors are=20 allowed to practise in Indonesia. BIMC has full emergency/ambulance = &=20 diagnostic equipment, radiology department and = on-line=20 medical consultation services via video conferencing. International = Travel=20 Insurance policies accept BIMC. http://www.bimcbali.com/=20 . There=20 was some criticism of BIMC early in '06 - that they required payment = in-hand=20 before a patient would even be seen by a doctor (Aus$250 not always = quickly=20 available for stretched tourists towards the end of their holiday) and = their=20 final costs seemed excessive compared with other hospitals although = covered by=20 good insurance eventually.

  7. International SOS Medika Klinik Bali, = (764 515 or=20 755 768), Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai 24X, KUTA. Almost directly across from = BIMC=20 (see above). Ph 764 556. The 24 hour alarm centre, Ph 756=20 768. Global HQ is in Singapore. They have a branch in Sydney = (Aust) at 4=20 Martin Place, Ph 9372 2400.

  8. Merdeka Medical Centre (MMC), Jl = Merdeka, /2 Renon,=20 Denpasar. 24-hour clinic and chemist. A number of specialists, = laboratory,=20 x-ray equipment.

  9. The International = Tourist=20 Medical Services has facilities in Bali at No 363 Jl Legian, Kuta, in = the Si=20 Doi Shopping Area next to the ASR Surf Shop. Dr Harry Wirawan is in = charge and=20 the phone number is +62 (361) 761 443 or in Ubud, +62 (361) 975 814. = Their=20 emergency number is 081 138 0691. E-mail itmbali@dps.centrin.net.id= .=20

  10. Rumah Sakit = Dharma Husada=20 (Hospital) Jl Panglima Sudirman No 50 Denpasar. Ph 227 560. =

  11. Rumah Sakit Umum = Sanglah=20 (Hospital) Jl Diponegoro, Denpasar. Ph 227 911.

  12. Bali Sanglah General Hospital (RSUP = Sanglah) began=20 a CT Scan facility mid 2002.

  13. Kuta Clinic, Jl = Raya Kuta 100X,=20 Kuta. Ph 753 268.

  14. Nusa Dua Clinic. = Jl; Pratama No=20 18A Nusa Dua. Ph 771 324.

  15. Ubud Clinic =96 (24 hour service) Jl = Raya Ubud No 36,=20 Camphuan. 974 911.

  16. Padma Clinic. On Padma = Utara near Le=20 Monde restaurant or the entrance to the Besakih Hotel- often with an = ambulance=20 parked nearby.

  17. In '09 we found Kasih Ibu, = an=20 International Private Hospital with speedy service at Jl Teuku Umar = 120,=20 Denpasar, Bali. It seems to provide a service mainly for locals but I = wouldn't=20 hesitate to go there if I got run over in the vicinity as a couple of = NZ=20 bikers did while we were there. A two-shot X-ray at Rp70.000 was = cheaper than=20 a local Pizza Hut offering at Rp79.000. Apotic service for tablets is = upstairs=20 and delivered to our friends before the bill was paid. http://www.kasihibuhospital.com= /.=20

  18. No list of this sort would = be complete=20 without mention of the John Fawcett Foundation in Sanur. The = Foundation, with=20 the assistance of the Australian Government (Lordy, I like to see my = taxes=20 being used in this way) provides FREE, yes, check it again, FREE = cataract and=20 eye surgery for poor locals with prescription glasses at the end of = the=20 process. In by 9, out by 5 with a friend to take them home. Thousands = of=20 procedures have been performed from this centre for people all over = Indonesia.=20 They also arrange TB checks and treatment, facial surgery, cleft = palate and=20 hernia repair as well as other emergency surgery for locals, with = transfer to=20 Oz if needed. Jl Pengembak 16, Sanur. Ph+62 361 270 812, http://www.balieye.org/ . = Donations can be=20 made directly to Bank Lippo in Bali. They also run daily licensed = tours to=20 help defray costs and their prices seem very competitive. For example = a 10=20 hour Karangasem tour to East Bali takes in the beach salt works at = Kusamba,=20 the Temple and Bat Cave, Tenganan village, the King's Palace at Ujong, = the=20 Water Palace at Tirtagangga, Putung village valley and lunch at Candi = Dasa all=20 for US$40pp for a minimum of two people. There are eight other full = day tours=20 and six half-day tours from US$28pp. Check out = ayujayatours.com.

  19. International Red = Cross; Ph 26=20 465.

  20. Bali Blood = Bank. Run by Red=20 Cross, =91safe, modern, skilful and efficient=92 says an Aussie = nurse. Severe=20 shortages of negative blood as Indonesians are virtually all positive. = Help=20 yourself and other tourists.  DONATE! Ph 227224 or 247 739 in=20 Bali. Mobile service comes to you!
    Be a show-off =96 donate = by the=20 pool.
    There is a blood transfusion service unit in Denpasar (ph = 227 224)=20 or call Freddy Subianto of Rotary if you have language difficulties = =96 daytime=20 751 687 or 765 884 or night time at the Kura Kura Bar & Grill in = Seminyak,=20 730 445.  They=92ll pick up a group of you from your hotel in a = mini=20 ambulance! Now there=92s something to talk about.
    Supported by = Bali=20 Rotary clubs. Only sterile, disposable needles are used. Australian = health=20 professionals who have investigated and used the service praise it = highly.=20

  21. Doctor =96 Dr Coney, GP, Jl Bypass = Sanur. 288=20 128.
               - = Dr=20 Conny Pangkahila, Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai 25X, Sanur, near Ritra Cargo=20 depot.
               = - Dr AA=20 Made Djelantik, Jl Hayam Waruk Denpasar.    =20
               - in = Ubud=20 there is a recommended doctor in Monkey Forest Road, on the Ubud = Village Hotel=20 side of the street, upstairs.=20
               - Dr = Ari=20 Sudhewa, Mob 08 123 954 567 or 081 3295 4567. Office ph 0361 225 230, = fax 0361=20 728 955, e-mail ari_medicaldoctor@yahoo.com is a=20 friendly young man, well trained in western medicine as well as = eastern=20 alternatives, who cares for the locals beyond just their medical = needs. We=20 have involved him twice to give advice and treatment to local friends = who=20 simply could not afford it themselves. He diagnoses and will arrange=20 specialist services if necessary. We found the costs to be incredibly = cheap=20 when arrangements were made this way.  We suspect that he did not = charge=20 us for his own services as he was treating fellow Balinese. We highly=20 recommend him. His office is in Sanur but we have found that he will = come to a=20 patient=20 = anywhere.
              =  =20 - Dr Tjokorda Gede Subiamia, an older gentleman (as the title might = suggest)=20 has a clinic and nurse service at his home in Legian. Jl Gunung Guntur = Gang xx=20 No16. Kelod Padang Sambian (80117) Kec, Denpasar Barat. Ph 0811 392 = 071 or=20 0812 3866 772. Western trained and two children also in medical = practise keep=20 him up to=20 = date.
              &nbs= p; -=20 There is a afternoon doctor's clinic at the Kartika Plaza hotel, = serviced by=20 staff from Sangala Hospital in=20 = Denpasar.
              =  =20 - One recommended by well known ex-pats is Dr Ristie Darwaman on Jl = Dewi Sri,=20 No45, Kuta; Ph(0361) 761 929 or Mob 0361 7429=20 = 923.
               = ; -=20 Dr Harry Wirawan S, Kuta Clinic, (0361) 761 443 or (0361) 751=20 981.

  22. Dentist =96 = Ritjie Rihartinah, Jl=20 Pratama No 81, Nusa Dua. 771 324. 
    ** Also Dr Sucipto, near = the Bali=20 Bank in Jl Diponogoro, 150 A32/34, Denpasar. Ph 222 541. Very good = dentist=20 with up-to-date equipment and quite cheap but in a very scruffy = looking=20 shopping area. Appointments required and work guaranteed! http://www.drsucipto.com/. = E-mail sucipito-angga@yahoo.com. = Make sure=20 that you do have an appointment or you will probably be shuffled of = onto a=20 lesser person if some '05 reports are accurate. Some of the 'lesser = persons'=20 reportedly created havoc with at least some straightforward repair = work in=20 early '06. In '07 there were more reports that were not complimentary = also!!!=20 Even a claim that the receptionist worked on teeth! and the original = quote was=20 greatly exceeded.
    ** Also Bali 911 Dental Clinic in the Bali Mall = Galeria,=20 Lantai Dasar No1A/08.  It=92s a couple of doors away from the = BIMC, see=20 note 3 above. This clinic is open from noon to 9 pm. No appointment is = required. English is spoken - clearly. The equipment is as you would = expect to=20 find in the best practice in your home town, in fact the system of = taking=20 x-rays and showing them instantly on a screen next to the chair is = much better=20 than my dentist at home. The place is spotlessly clean and there is a = gentle=20 and caring attitude from all the staff. In =9207 the dentist here was = Rudyard=20 (Rudi) Salindeho. (0361) 766 255 or 744 9911. Mall Bali Galeria near = Planet=20 Hollywood. (A home quote of  Aus$2554 for one traveller was about = Aus$600=20 at this clinic - '05.) In '07 we took our beach friend Monica to Rudy = for=20 assessment and then treatment. (Monica is 32 years old, a mother of = 3 and=20 had never been through a dentist's door in all her life. The = required=20 work was general cleaning and one filling !!!) The reason we took = her was=20 that her teeth were far too large for her tiny mouth. They were = overlapping=20 and growing at odd angles. This had embarrassed her all her life to = the extent=20 that she rarely smiled and covered her mouth with a hand when she = laughed. On=20 the first visit her teeth were cleaned, a filling done and one tooth=20 extracted. Cost Rp1.3 million or about Aus$170. The second visit a = week later=20 was for 3 extractions to make space for the displaced teeth to move = into over=20 time. Cost Rp1 million or Aus$120 - total less that $300 to give her a = new=20 outlook on life. We were all overjoyed and wait anxiously for the free = 3 month=20 report of progress, hoping that a small brace will not be required. = You too=20 can make a huge difference to someone's life in Bali for a relatively = small=20 cost. Do it !!       http://www.balitra= velforum.com/msg/32173.html=20 Rudi is recommended by BIMC. http://www.balidentalclinic.com= /=20 or look for their advertisement in the Bali Yellow Pages. The 911 = Dental=20 Clinik is also recommended for urgent work and maintenance such as a = cut and=20 polish. Often appointments are not needed for small jobs. Equipment = and=20 practices are of international standard. In '09 I had a filling = replaced by=20 his assistant dentist, Dr Dewi Ismaya. My home dentist checked the = work and=20 said it required no further attention. Aus$40.
    ** Also Dr Retno = (female)=20 opposite McDonalds on the By Pass, next to the bread shop on the = corner.=20 Highly recommended by the Australian Consulate and not expensive by = overseas=20 standards, She will refer you for extractions. Very polite with good = English=20 and a sense of humour.
    **
    ** I Wayan Parwata was recommended = for=20 emergency work in March '06. Ph 62 361 222 541 or 081 338 415 = 724.
    ** A new=20 dental site on the net reflects the growth nature of the dental = treatment=20 business in Bali; http://www.ivodent.com/.
    ** = In the=20 Tuban area look for Dr Atmaja studied and worked in the US for 10 = years before=20 returning to Bali to practise. Very good and very accommodating in an=20 emergency - and aren't they all good when you've got a tooth ache? = Modern=20 equipment. 6 fillings plus clean and de-scale, 1.5 hours, = Rp210,000,000 or=20 about Aus$300. Claim on your travel insurance. You do have travel = insurance=20 don't you???? Further good reports from satisfied customers in '07. Jl = Dukuh=20 Indah No55 Kerobokan/Umalas near the stables. Ph 0361 847 5179. Open = Mon to=20 Fri and Sat by appointment. Any good driver will find it for = you.
    ** Dr=20 Indra Guizot. Jl Pattimura 19 Denpasar. Ph (0361) 222 445 249 = 749. =20 e-mail iguizot@indosat.net.id.=20 Highly recommended in '07. Fixed up work done and botched by another = popular=20 dentist. Very straightforward in describing your = problems.

  23. Chiropractor =96 Dr=20 J Taylor, Jl Kajeng No35, Ubud. 974=20 = 393.
               = ;        =20 - Tony Dawson =96 western trained. Kuta Poleng Centre near Dijon deli = at the=20 roundabout=20 = Sanur-Kuta.
             &nbs= p;         =20 - Don=92t overlook the locals. (Not the beach massagers but the = village=20 practitioners.) Some are amazing with skills developed over years of=20 experience.=20 =
               &nb= sp;       =20 - In the Kuta Galeria (near Alta Moda and Ace Hardware is Global=20 Chiropractise. Google 'globalchiro.net'.

  24. Paediatrician =96 Dr Sugita, Jl = Tuban, Kuta. 751=20 301.=20

  25. Eye=20 Clinic =96 John Fawcett =96 Jl=20 Pengembak No 14 Banjar Blanjong Sanur. Also collects your old glasses = for=20 treatment of locals who cannot afford others. rmcc@dps.mega.net.id . Ph = (0361) 287=20 707 or 270 812.  John Fawcett Foundation and = Yayasan=20 Kemanusiian, Indonesia. http://www.balieye.org/.=20

  26. Midwife =96 Kim (also works at BIMC = on Tuesdays =96=20 see above) 0811 386 256 or (0361) 289 913. balikim@hotmail.com .The sign = =91BIDAN=94=20 indicates the midwifes clinic. There is a maternity Hospital, Kasih = Ibu, near=20 Denpasar. Local drivers know how to get there. There is also a = Birthing Clinic=20 next to the orphanage in the village of Palasari in West=20 Bali.=20 http://gentlebirthsbali.org/.

  27. Nurse. Australian = trained. Kim P.=20 0811 386 256 for advice if all else fails. E-mail info@chcbali.com or see=20 www.chcbali.com.

  28. Wheelchairs in Bali are not = something you=20 necessarily think about when you start your holiday but, on occasion, = they are=20 needed. =91Smudge, Chris and Ken=92 with the help of some Aussies have = some which=20 can be borrowed and all they ask is a donation to Southern Cross Bali=20 Association so that good works can continue. If you=92re in need = contact=20 Smudge@balivision.com. or call at nearby Ricky's Bar in = Jl=20 Padma Utara in Legian, often frequented by Smudge and a place where = you can=20 safely leave donations.
    Bali Access Travel also have 'chairs for = hire -=20 Rp60,000/day (Au$6) over 3 weeks and a refundable security deposit of=20 Rp1,000,000, About Au$125. E-mail david@accesstravel.com. =
    In recent=20 times many of the classier hotels, perhaps mindful of the finer points = of the=20 law and litigation, have chairs and crutches available for guests who = injure=20 themselves on the property. There are advisory sites on the net, http://www.wheelyaccessible.c= o.uk/=20 and http://www.baliaccesstravel.com= /=20 and recently Bali Discovery tours has opened a web site to assist = disabled=20 travellers. I'm told that it will remain open and be regularly updated = with=20 any relevant information. Go to http://= www.balidiscovery.com/special_needs_travelers.asp=20 .
    Access to restaurants is often a problem and a phone call or = preliminary=20 visit is advisable, Similarly access to shops can frequently be=20 impossible.
    *** Wheelchair-friendly hotels and restaurants that I = have=20 heard about include;
    - the Balihai Resort and Spa in Tuban where = there are=20 ramps and a lift. (Closed '07. Future uncertain, supposed to re-open = early=20 '09.)
    - the Ramada Bintang also in Tuban. There is a disabled room = which is=20 excellent with good shower, hand basin etc etc. The pool was a little=20 difficult but certainly not impossible.
    - the Dynasty, also in = Tuban, has a=20 disabled-friendly room which is very good. The lift was not so good = being just=20 a bit too small. The front ramp up to the hotel lobby required 2 = strong men to=20 push the chair. The dining room and tables were friendly and the pool = had just=20 a few shallow steps to negotiate. The staff were always happy to = help.
    -=20 Hotel Sanur Beach, the Segara Village in Sanur, the Sanur Paradise = Plaza, the=20 Inna Bali Beach Hotel (Sanur), the Bali Hyatt.
    - The Legian Beach = Hotel and=20 the Bali Padma Hotel in Legian.
    - The=20 Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, the Westin Resort, Bali Aga, Grand Hyatt, Nikko = Bali=20 Resort and Bali Hilton, all in Nusa Dua, a very upmarket area for=20 resorts.
    - In Jimbaran Bay the Ritz Carlton, Bali Cliff and Bali=20 Intercontinental are all 'chair friendly.
    - Le Meridien Nirwana has = 3=20 special rooms and graded pathways around the resort.
    - The Sol = Lovina has=20 reasonably easy access but no special rooms or fittings.
    -  = The=20 Kartika Plaza is generally handicapped accessible throughout but = significantly=20 so is the pool, often overlooked at other places.
    -  The beach = path at=20 Sanur is great for 'chair users and many of the restaurants along the = path are=20 accessible and some even have accessible toilets.
    -   
    -  Gophers = can be=20 hired at Bali Mobility, http://www.balimobility.com/. = Ask for=20 Cookie when you call. 'chair friendly vehicles also available.
    - In = Lombok,=20 Bali's neighbouring island, the Holiday Inn Resort and the Sheraton = Sengiggi=20 are both 'chair friendly in the rooms and in the = gardens.

    *** Be aware that the footpaths in = Bali=20 are NOT wheelchair friendly with many steep changes in level. Most = wheelchairs=20 I have seen were being used on the edges of the roads and were getting = very=20 sympathetic reactions from passing drivers which will not surprise any = Bali-phile. Local restaurants outside of these hotels may not always = be 'chair=20 friendly.
    Deep Tissue Therapy = massage.=20 3 qualified, blind men work at the Bumi Ayu Bungalows in Sanur.  = Ph 289=20 101.=20

  29. CONSULATES:
    Australia, Canada = & New=20 Zealand. Jl Prof Yamin No 4, Renon, Denpasar. Ph (62-361) 235 092, Fax = (62-361) 231 990. E-Mail     ausconbali@denpasar.wasantara.net.id . Aussies=20 who can=92t go on holidays without taking their sports baggage with = them should=20 check with www.homesick,com.au/index.= html=20 for all the latest info.
    British =96 Jl Mertassi N0 2 Sanur. Ph 235 = 092.
    Dutch =96 Jl H R Resuna Said Kav, S-3, 12950 Kuningan, = Jakarta. Ph (021)=20 525 1515.
    French =96 Bypass Road No 35X, Sanur. 285 485.
    German = =96 Jl=20 Pantai Karang No 17 Sanur. 288 535.
    Japan =96 Jl Raya Puputan, = Renon. 227=20 628.
    Swiss & Austria =96 John P Zurcher, Komplex Istana = Galleria, Blok=20 Valet No 12, Jl Patih Jelantik, Kuta. Ph (+62-(0)0361 - 751 735, Fax=20 +62-(0)361 =96 754-457..
    Sweden & Finland =96 Jl Segara Ayu, = Sanur. 288=20 407.
    USA =96 Jl Hayam Waruk No 188, Denpasar. 233 = 605.     =

  30. Credit card = matters - American=20 Express; Grand Bali Beach Hotel, Sanur, Ph 288 511, Extension = 111.
    -=20 Mastercard; Bank Central Asia, Jl Cockroaminoto, Denpasar. Ph 222 = 652.
    -=20 Visa; Bank Duta, Jl Hayam Wuruk 165, Denpasar. Ph 226 578.

  31. Avoid Wayan and Melody Fullmoon if = you=92re after=20 business advice or assistance.

  32. LAWYER =96 Peter = Johnson, LL.B.=20 Called a =91Legal Consultant=92 in Bali. Australian married to = Balinese. Ph 759=20 722, Mobile 081 2380 2550. E-mail johnsonp@denpasar.wasa= ntara.net.id.=20

  33. NOTARIES - = PROPERTY PURCHASE.=20 Notaries are not quite the same as lawyers but are authorised by the=20 Indonesian government to legalise a range of official documents and = papers.=20 For foreign recognition of a Notary=92s verification the notary must = hold=20 accreditation from the foreign country. A particular level of Notary, = known as=20 a =91PPAT=92 must be used for property matters. = Foreigners can own=20 building structures in Indonesia but may only lease land, either short = or long=20 term - up to 50 years is possible. Kurnia at the Bali Immigration and = Advisory=20 Service in Jl Batu Belig in Seminyak is a Notary. There are many with=20 street-front shops who are reliable but for O/S travellers finding one = with=20 your language skills might be a problem. One recommended twice in '05 = and=20 again in '06, with good English and an honest reputation, is Made = Puryatama,=20 home ph (0361) 422 948, office ph (+) 226 782, fax (+) 232 620. He is = also=20 recognised by the Italian Trade Commission.
    SCAMS:=20 There are almost as many house, land property and business share scams = in Bali=20 as there are money scams. Non-Indonesians can not own land or property = in=20 Bali. It must be held in the name of a local and that leaves the = foreigner at=20 the mercy of lawyers and courts. Not a bright prospect in this = country. Land=20 can be leased but the longest period (and very rare) is 50 years. At = the end=20 of the lease you have neither the land nor any improvements you have = put on=20 it, eg a house. Similarly your position is risky if you want to buy = shares in=20 a Bali business (which might or might not involve property). It can be = very=20 difficult to find out if the person offering you a share is really the = owner,=20 and great faith can not be put in any official-looking documents you = might be=20 shown. At least get the services of a recommended notary and/or lawyer = as=20 noted above, but be sure that they are recommended as an INDEPENDENT = person in=20 the possible transaction, certainly not one recommended by the seller. =
    A=20 useful contact in Bali if you're thinking of business opportunities is = 'Dadvet' at dowdvet@aol.com. He = says he=20 has learnt of all the pitfalls the hard way and is willing to share = his=20 experiences.

  34. Local banks.=20 The locals who are shopkeepers, beach sellers, drivers and hotel = workers seem=20 to prefer to use the Desa (district) banks when times are good. One of = these=20 that seems very popular with our friends is Lembaga Pekreditan Desa, = Desa Adat=20 Kuta at Jl Singosari No 64, Kuta, not far from the Kuta markets. In = 2007 their=20 holdings were over 11 billion rupiah (if I read their brochure = correctly) an=20 improvement of over 7% on the previous year. The preference seems to = be=20 related to the activities of the banks in local projects which are = seen and=20 appreciated, unlike the works of the larger banks which are seen as = just=20 another government collection agency.

  35. VETS =96 Dr Dharma. = Used by Bali=20 Society for the Protection of Animals. Jl Raya Sesetan, 338 = Pesanggaran,=20 Denpasar. Ph/fax 726 856.
    Dr Listriani. Has a foundation to care = for=20 street animals. Very caring, compassionate. She also makes house calls = in=20 Bali. Ph 081 239 03756 and 264067.
    * Also Dr Made Restiati at = (0361) 7442=20 430.

  36. Airline = contact numbers=20 and office addresses as well as timetables at Ngurah Rai airport in = Bali can=20 be found at www.bali-thepages.co= m/airlines.shtml=20 . Garuda have moved their office in Bali. It is now in the Kuta = Paradiso=20 Hotel, Ph (62-361) 751 179. You can go there and get a seat allocation = for=20 your return trip if you want to.
    Pacific Blue (Virgin) has an = office on the=20 By Pass road in Kuta. You do not have to confirm your return flights = but it is=20 a good idea to check the departure time for any changes. Go to the = Virgin=20 'Guest Contact Centre' on the web.

  37. =91Bali = Belly=92 is a pain=20 in the - - - -, for at least 24 hours.
    There are many recommended = remedies=20 but its best not to get it in the first place. Personal hygiene needs to be watched more carefully than at = home,=20 particularly hand washing. You=92ll know that you=92ve got it about = 3-4 hours=20 after you get it =96 the bug that is. You might not want to believe it = at first=20 but a couple of hours later there=92ll be no denying it.
    DO=20 NOT DRINK THE WATER FROM THE TAPS!
    Be especially careful of = this when=20 your guard is down =96 in your hotel shower and when cleaning your=20 teeth.    =20 If=20 you have trouble remembering that you must not rinse your mouth with = the tap=20 water in Bali, tie a handkerchief or a red ribbon around the tap. For = children=20 practise at home for a week or so before you leave.=20 Keep bottled water in your bathroom at all times. Purchase your own if = you are=20 in a cheaper hotel that does not supply it. You must however drink = adequate=20 water or you will dangerously dehydrate in the tropical climate. Safe, = bottled=20 water is cheap and readily available virtually all over the island. = You know=20 you=92re on a good thing when you see the locals doing it!  Guys = (and=20 Gals?) if you use a blade razor to shave do not rinse it under the = tap. Rinse=20 it in bottled water also or you might break out in a rash that is not = nice in=20 sensitive areas.
    Wash your hands = after=20 visiting the toilet or handling money particularly. See =91HEALTH = PROTECTION=92=20 below.
    Do not lick your fingers or bite your nails!
    Don=92t = drink using=20 straws as they are washed and re-used in some places.
    Don=92t buy = bottled=20 drinks that are kept cool in ice/water slurry cold chests. Purchase = only from=20 refrigerated cabinets.
    Ice in the tourist areas is made under = government=20 control and should be safe in drinks.
    The time from infection to = symptoms=20 varies from less than a day to 2 weeks and the problem is contagious=20 throughout the period that the organism exists in the gut and is being = passed.=20 Warning to Mum's and Dad's - Take care not to catch it from the kids = (or a=20 partner). For the full details go to http://www.aafp.org/af= p/990700ap/119.html.=20
    Imodium is a common clinical remedy (A$2.00 app; take 2 tablets = straight=20 away and 1 next morning).
    Some say this is only a =91stop gap=92 = (is that a=20 good choice of words?) for situations where you must travel as it can=20 interfere with the bodily functions and inhibit the flushing out the = bacteria=20 and toxins. These antagonists would say that Pepto-bismol is a better = way to=20 go. 8 tablets a day, every day, all at once or spread out thro=92 the = day.=20 Changes the acidity of your gut and drives the bugs out so they = don=92t multiply=20 faster than your system can handle them.
    Loperomide usually works = within 1=20 hour. Others recommend daily Acidophilous tablets as a = preventative to=20 ward off the bugs.
    Cipro or Ciproxin is a common prescription = cure-all anti=20 biotic.
    Another remedy is Norritt, little black activated charcoal = tablets=20 available at Matahari Supermarkets and many other places in Bali, = including=20 many Circle K stores and Mini Marts, for Rp6700 for 40 tablets. 6 to 9 = tablets=20 three times a day.
    Some travellers swear by lots of Entrostop = charcoal=20 tablets from a local =91Apotic=92 (chemist or drugstore). They should = not be used=20 with other medication =96 or at least not within 4 hours as the = beneficial=20 effects of both may be cancelled out.
    Locals reputedly use SG = Tablets from=20 their local =91Apotic=92 (chemist). They are not easy to find and you = may be told=20 that they are no longer made. Keep = searching.
    Frequent=20 Gastrolyte drinks are claimed by some to be better than sports drinks = like=20 Gatorade as they replace the essential electrolytes in your fluid = systems=20 without the high sugar content which really causes more=20 dehydration.
    Entrostop, available in Bali at Apotics = (chemists/drugstores)=20 and Circle K, are better than most western medications and at A$2 = should be a=20 first line of attack against BB.
    A=20 recently recommended preventative with solid (no pun intended) support = is=20 Raspberry juice =96 with at least 30%, preferably more, real juice in = the blend.=20 Mix it strong =96 25% cordial: 75% bottled water. Ellagic acid is the = ingredient=20 that makes the difference! Some people have a neat swig every morning = before=20 breakfast, about 10 mil of 100% strength, 20 mil for 50% etc. Good for = kids.=20 Pack your bottle in an Aussie Post wine pack in Polystyrene or = cardboard for=20 safety or you can now buy concentrate at the new ('07) Carrefour = called=20 Framezon(?).
    ** Now (2007) available at Makro on the Bypass road. = 100%=20 pure, 750mg,Rp30,000 ($4). Dilute 3 or 4 water to 1 juice. Glass full = every=20 morning.
    * * 100% natural Garden Fresh raspberry fruit syrup is = available=20 at the Pasadena Foodland in South Oz, A$5.50 for 750 ml bottle, also = Golden=20 Grove Village and North Adelaide Foodlands. Other Foodland managers = can get=20 stock in for you with a little persuasion. Contains only sugar, = raspberry=20 juice and citric acid. Used for drink flavouring and dessert = toppings.
    *=20 Also raspberry syrup available at Gaganis Bros just off South Road at = the=20 intersection with Grange Road. 1.5 litres for A$4.95. and at the = supermarket=20 section of the Brickworks Market in Torrensville on the South = Road.
    * A=20 surprise was to find 1 litre juice at Shillabeers Butchers in Regency = Park=20 near the South Road corner on the southern side of Regency Road. = $6.50.
    *=20 Also in South Oz (and maybe other parts of Oz or the world) - Kevron = Aust, 188=20 Glynburn Rd Tranmere Ph 8332 6055 or fax 8364 0739 , E-mail kevin@kevronfoods.com.au. = Also -=20 Aust Food Innovators, PO Box 970 Berri SA 5343 Ph 8582 4233 Fax 8582 = 4344,=20 E-mail sales@austfoodinnovators.= com.au. =20 Pure raspberry juice with no artificial flavours, sugars or = preservatives,=20 100% natural.
    * Also at Foodland in North Adelaide on the top = shelves in=20 the cordial section. Don't get juice and cordial mixed up.
    * The = Junction=20 Markets (cnr Grand Junction and Prospect Roads)  has juice as = does=20 Miyani's on Saints Road Salisbury Park and Foodland at Pasadena.
    * = Marsaka=20 brand Raspberry Juice has a 65% concentration of juice. Available in=20 Continental delis, even some butchers and supermarkets. In a 1 litre = glass=20 bottle so best to decant into plastic drink bottles for the trip over. = The=20 importers are Marco Polo Foods in Campsie, NSW. Ph 02 9718 8922 to = find out=20 your nearest stockists. In Adelaide the distributors number is 8345 = 3792 for=20 your nearest stockist.     In Australia many = of the=20 Croatian run shops sell imported  Maraska which costs about A$6 = per=20 litre. Some Woolworths stores also stock this in their ethnic sections = . Check=20 your local phone book.
    * In '05 the Coles Supermarket at = the=20 Colonnades Shopping Centre had Fresh Attitude 100% Raspberry Crush (in = the=20 fruit and veg section) - 300ml bottles for $4.98
    * Anchor Cordial = is=20 available from Dawson's and Supa Valu in the northern Perth suburbs. = Check the=20 concentration of raspberry.
    * Cascade Raspberry Fruit Juice Syrup = is also=20 good. Ph Freecall 1800 641 647 for stockists in your (Oz) area.
    * = Dick=20 Smith and Golden Circle (in Oz) both have raspberry cordial with 40%=20 juice. 
    Coles (at Warwick in WA and Colonnades in SA at least) = had=20 100% Natural Raspberry Crush made by Fresh Attitudes in '05. $4.50 for = 300ml.=20 $4.95 in SA. No added sugar no preservatives, no concentrates. Check = the=20 expiry date and refrigerate after opening. Can be = frozen.

  38. * Also in Coles stores is = a 100%=20 raspberry juice at the Icecream topping section. 'Fresh Attitude = Australia' -=20 250ml for #3.99.
    * In WA Berry = Sweet, 100%,=20 is available from the Malaga Markets in the northern suburbs. It is = stocked by=20 a stall next to the stage in the food court where you can also get = fresh OJ=20 and yoghurt. It is $5 for 350ml bottles.
    Get the good = oil from=20 this web address - http://www.abc.net.= au/worldtoday/s263898.htm=20 .
    * 100% concentrate is available from Bramble Farm in Langwarrin,=20 Victoria, Australia from Di Benson who will post you a supply COD =96 = Di Benson=20 at brambleb@bigpond.com. = Ph 03 9776=20 7018. Take 10 mils undiluted twice a day. Tastes good, berry flavour, = not=20 sickly sweet.
    * Also from Shepparton at http://www.berrysweet.com.au/.=
    *=20 In Sydney try Macro Wholefoods Supermarket on Oxford Street in Bondi = Junction.=20 300ml for $7.95.
    Warringah Mall has a country growers market where = you can=20 get Marco Polo Foods juice. Ph 02 9718 8922 for your nearest = stockist.
    * *=20 * * Now available at the Gourmet Garage in Jimbaran Bay I'm told. = Easier with=20 the new ('07) restrictions on liquids in hand luggage.
    Some = travellers also=20 recommend a daily =92Yakult=92 yoghurt = drink.  Similar=20 anti-bacterial agents are available in tablet forms.  One is = Megadophalus=20 from health food store or chemist.  Start taking a daily dose up = to a=20 month before you leave.
    If you want to go the natural way be = prepared to=20 start up to 3 months before you leave as the body is slow to adapt to = a new=20 regime and develop the required resistances to invading bugs.
    A = recent=20 recommendation for recovery is a can of Coke or similar with a pinch = of salt=20 and a squeeze of real lemon juice to replace salts and electrolytes = lost from=20 the body systems.
    For 'light relief' carry a copy of "Shi**ing = Pretty",=20 written by a doctor with personal experience.
    Another natural way = to ward=20 off the bug is Acidophilus Capsules from Health Food stores. Somewhat = similar=20 to Yakult. Best to start well before you go.
    GETTING OVER = IT.
    The Bali=20 International Medical Clinic has dietary recommendations if you=92re = unlucky (or=20 careless) enough to get it.
    AVOID =96 greasy fried foods, soft = drinks,=20 alcohol, coffee, dairy foods except plain natural yoghurt, spicy = foods,=20 excessive smoking and any food or drink that is either very hot or = very=20 cold.
    * * * A potential risk that has recently been identified is = the=20 collection of questionable material under the outer edges of bottle = seals. It=20 is suggested that the necks of bottles be carefully wiped before = contact with=20 your mouth.
    RECOMMENDED =96 Isotonic sports=20 drinks such as Gatorade, Pocari, Sweat etc, apples, bananas, plain = rice or=20 porridge, oats and semolina custard, clear soups, herbal teas, natural = yoghurt=20 and acidophilus/ biphodophilis supplements, ginger and peppermint oils = in=20 lollies or teas, small quantities of fluids regularly (although = some=20 doctors recommend at least one glass of safe water or other fluid = after every=20 trip to the toilet to ensure dehydration does not complicate things). = Babies=20 and young children may become temporarily intolerant to cows milk but = should=20 be able to handle soy milk. Lactose free milk is easily available but = usually=20 the long life packs.
    It is always best to discuss these things with = your=20 doctor before you go of course (and if you are travelling with = children be=20 sure about child-size doses too), but if you get =91caught short=92 = then try=20 something that has provided relief or protection to others rather than = do=20 nothing.
    If you get it (the dreaded =91BB=92 that is), drinking = lots of water,=20 light teas, perhaps a little boiled rice will do no harm. Most would = agree=20 that if you are feverish and vomiting with stomach cramps and the = squirts get=20 a doctor and have a shot in the bum, and no arguments. (You do have = travel=20 insurance =96 don=92t you!) If you vomit after having prescribed = tablets cut them=20 in half and take the lighter dose twice as often. See also = =91Eating=92 and=20 =91Drinking in Safety=92 below.
    Don=92t confuse the body=92s normal = reaction to a=20 sudden change of diet, especially a diet with heaps of fresh fruit in = it, with=20 Bali Belly.  Change your diet slowly, working from your normal = foods to=20 more exotic ones in easy stages and small doses. Within a few = days you=20 will be safely ready for anything that exotic Bali can provide for you = =96=20 except the reticulated water!
    Whilst it is prudent to be cautious = and use=20 common (or un-common) sense do not let senseless paranoia ruin your=20 holiday.    =20

  39. Carry toilet = paper with you=20 everywhere in Bali even if you don=92t have Bali Belly. The chance of = you=20 finding a good, clean, comfortable, useable, flush toilet when = you=92re=20 out-and-about in Bali is slim. The chances of you finding good, clean, = comfortable, useable toilet paper in public places away from your = hotel, even=20 in reasonable restaurants, is almost zero! You might like to look = at=20 =91Toilets, Loos and Dunnies=92, below.

  40. HEALTH = PROTECTION.
    Be wary=20 but not paranoid to the point where you ruin your holiday. The vast = majority=20 of travellers never catch anything, but most are prepared and take = simple=20 precautions whilst on holiday.
    You should consult with your medical = advisor=20 about your possible need for the following shots before=20 visiting some parts of Bali, Lombok and other Indonesian = islands:
    Be=20 aware that Codeine is considered a dangerous drug in Indonesia, which = includes=20 Bali of course, and in some other Asian countries.
    Have a look = at the=20 Q & A section of the Better Health website to find some valuable = facts=20 rather than listen to helpful but probably ill-informed friends.
    ** = Diphtheria/tetanus =96 up-dating with booster shots strongly advised, = even if=20 you=92re not going to travel.
    ** Polio. A good idea to be current = with your=20 protection anywhere in the world =96 even at home. 33 new cases were = detected in=20 Indonesia in '04 bringing the total to 355. 6.5 million children have = been=20 vaccinated in West Java alone. Public vaccinations for 24 million = children=20 throughout Indonesia are planned for 2005.
    ** Hepatitis A. Many = doctors=20 will advise it. A follow-up shot after 6 months will give you the best = lifetime protection that=92s available at the moment. Don=92t forget = it if you=20 intend to travel in the future.
    **Hepatitis B. Do you live a bit on = the=20 wild side? =96 take a few risks? =96 Then certainly get this = shot.
    ** Typhoid.=20 Particularly advised for some areas. In early '05 it was revealed that = a=20 doctor had diagnosed and reported typhus in Singaraja.
    ** Malaria = is=20 particular risk in Lombok and other islands and only somewhat less so = in=20 Bali. 
    You should be a bit concerned that malaria is = reportedly on the=20 rise in Bali despite conflicting claims that the island is malaria=20 free. In the southern tourist areas alone there were 688 cases = reported=20 within the first quarter of 2002. The whole of 2001 for this area saw = only 753=20 cases with 8 deaths. Protection is wise. Dress to cover legs and arms = from=20 sundown on. Use skin repellents liberally and ask for a mozzie coil to = be=20 placed under your table when dining.
    ** Dengue Fever is another = mosquito=20 borne disease which can sneak up on you anywhere in the tropics. There = was an=20 upsurge in Bali in late '07 and early '08. The mozzie is smaller, = quieter,=20 less painful and active during the day, which of course increases the = risk of=20 being bitten. It pays to use repellent all the time. The local Autan = is=20 effective. In high risk areas ensure mozzie-proof sleeping quarters or = carry=20 and use mosquito nets. Be particularly careful with children. Symptoms = take 3=20 to 14 days to develop. If you suddenly develop a fever with a rash, = headaches,=20 muscle and joint aches, pain behind the eyes or bleeding then call a = doctor.=20 Some travellers suggest that vitamin B1, started 2 weeks before you go = and=20 continued while you are there makes the skin unattractive to the = Dengue=20 mosquito. A virulent form results in profuse bleeding and will require = blood=20 transfusions and other medical treatment. If you are a = mozzie-attracter you=20 should consider long sleeves and trousers in high risk areas. Light = coloured=20 clothes make the little blighters easier to see and swat.
    - If your = travels=20 are going to take you further north the risk situation would be=20 worse. 
    4 to 6 weeks before travel consult your doctor for = CURRENT=20 medical advice and preventative medicines (be very careful in = maintaining the=20 dose schedule) rather than relying on out-of-date travel books or past = freedom=20 from infection. 
    - Precautions are simple to take. Doryx = is a=20 commonly prescribed anti-malarial.
    - Anti typhoid might also be=20 wise.
    Have a look at http://www.cdc.gov/travel/s= easia.htm =20 or  www.expat.or.id/medic= al/dengue.html=20 . This might be a little slow to load. Be patient.
    DO CONSULT YOUR = DOCTOR=20 (who knows YOUR medical history) FOR CURRENT ADVICE.
    When in Bali = wear=20 clothes that cover bare skin particularly around the hours of sundown = - when=20 mozzies are particularly active =96 and dawn or on dull days. Use = personal=20 repellents and aerosol sprays or the recent brightly coloured silicon=20 wrist/ankle bands that campers use - available in camping stores, = K-mart etc.=20 Contain citronella plus vitamin B1 and last for a few days. Kids think = they're=20 cool. Ask for a mozzie coil to be lit under your restaurant table. = Mozzie nets=20 might be advisable for sleeping in northern areas where there might be = no=20 window screens. Some travellers even dip them in = insecticide. They are=20 not all that common in the shops in Bali but there is a shop in the = small=20 street that runs between Jls Melasti and Padma. Also further along Jl = Legian=20 towards Seminyak there are some other shops. Another shop is in Jl = Sahadewa=20 (also known as Garlic Lane) towards the end nearest Melasti Street = where the=20 Taman Legian Gardens Restaurant is on the corner. Shops which = sell=20 cushions also seem to have them frequently.
    The Oz Army uses = Johnsons Baby=20 Clear Lotion Anti Mosquito (with a light green cap in 2002) in = tropical jungle=20 work. Has no DEET so good for those with=20 sensitivities. - - - =93 . . it worked for us too!=94.
    Aquaear for tropical fungus ear infection = prevention.=20
    Dermasoft and/or Dermaclean Lotion, disinfectant, instant dry for = hands or=20 a waterless antibacterial hand wash, available in the Matahari = supermarket in=20 Kuta. Has moisturiser and is self-drying. 100 ml tube. Use it before = eating=20 especially if you=92ve been handling money =96 which you will ALWAYS = be doing, I=20 guarantee!
    Aqium Gel. Waterless hand wash. Not sticky. 70 & = 375 ml=20 containers. $3.95 and $6.95 from pharmacies in Oz. Pump pack and purse = pack.=20 Cheaper than hand wipes and nothing to throw away afterwards. Very = cheap at=20 Makro's in Bali.
    Wet Ones Anti-bacterial=20 Wipes. Check supermarkets for Johnsons in baby section. Also = Dettol Wipes=20 are in a green and white pack, a bit stronger than baby wipes=20 perhaps.
    Nice'n'clean wipes are available in a small pocket/purse = pack.=20 Soft blue re-sealable pack.
    Antis, a waterless hand gel, is = available from=20 Makro and some supermarkets in Bali. Same as Aqium ?
    Nuvo Hand = Sanitiser=20 gel available in Bali. Approx 50 cents for 85mil bottle. Often in a = 3-pack.=20 Nice smell.
    ** Head lice are not uncommon in Bali and are often = rife=20 amongst orphanages and schools. PediTox is a local shampoo available = from=20 Apotics (local chemists) for Rp3.000 a bottle. Try the Apotic next to = the=20 Bintang Supermarket on Jl Legian. Nits are called 'kutu'  by the=20 Balinese. If giving to locals away from the tourist areas explain the = need for=20 EVERYONE to be treated on a regular basis until the nit-egg cycle is = broken. A=20 small trigger bottle for spraying in the corners of rooms and amongst = bedding=20 might also be useful. Take care that there is not broken skin on the = scalp=20 from frustrated scratching. The best long-term prevention is = probably=20 regular hair care with a good shampoo and a good conditioner. A bulk = purchase=20 of this for your friends is much better than a bulk supply of nit = treatment=20 solution.

  41. ** Beware of temporary tattoos. Many people have severe reactions to the = chemical=20 cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, and which is = toxic=20 and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in children with = recent=20 reports saying that one in five children will be = effected. The=20 scars after blistering may be permanent and flare up at times of = stress. Refer=20 to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http:= //www.dermcoll.asn.au/downloads/Henna_Tattoos_000.pdf  or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html . Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief = but would=20 you want to be doing this for the rest of your life - or condemn your = children=20 to this???
    Researchers in Germany have also uncovered a link = between=20 temporary tattoos and permanent, lifelong dermatitis. (3D World = Magazine issue=20 #569). Sufferers remain allergic to some metals, detergents and foods = FOR=20 LIFE!
    ** Be even more careful of permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you = un-seal=20 any sterile equipment and that you see the gun sterilised before use. = Insist=20 on new ink/dyes as these can also transmit Hep C.

  42. If you=92re travelling with=20 kids take (or purchase there) a half litre, trigger operated, = plastic=20 spray bottle and fill it with (bottled) water. Spray the kids, or let = them=20 spray themselves when they (and you) get hot. You might also find = interesting=20 information about travelling with children at http://www.filosbali.net/ and = look for=20 BaliWithKidz in the left hand column.

  43. If you (or the = Kidz) pick up=20 some head lice don't despair, the locals have a better answer than you = will=20 probably have available at home. Look for Pedi Tox at the local Apotic = (Chemist/Drug Store) for about Rp4,00 a bottle which will treat 2 Kidz = or one=20 long haired adult. Two bottles for a family of 4  for less than = Aus$2.=20 That's good value. It does not have a strong smell nor hurt little = eyes. Seems=20 to be no problem to bring a supply back home either.

  44. Balians are the = traditional=20 healers of Bali have enviable reputations for diagnosing and treating = long=20 suffering tourists. One such is Tjokorda Gede Rai in Sukawati. Get = your hotel=20 reception people to phone him and make an appointment for you. Another = is the=20 Surya Dharma clinic in Ubud. Its on the western end of the main Ubud = road, Ph=20 (361) 976 123.

  45. Beware Cane = mites or Wood=20 Lice and midges from chairs bars etc if allergic. Some people bang the = chairs=20 sharply on the floor and look for white or reddish dust which is = actually the=20 mites. Amongst others, the Bali Aroma has caught at least one = unfortunate=20 sufferer. Use Autin (pink) liberally. Avoid perfume and make-up as = much as=20 possible that seems to attract them although the basic attrac. Use = moisturiser=20 at bedtime to compensate. Spray your room liberally several times a = week as=20 you go out for the day. If you have cane furniture you can spray it = with=20 Baygon. It also oils squeaky doors and toilet seats but take care with = it and=20 don=92t get it on the floor as it=92s slippery. Try Phenergan cream = (anti=20 histamine ingredient) if all your avoidance tactics fail. If you have = hive=20 type symptoms take Telfast tablets from home. If all else fails call = the hotel=20 doctor and get a shot of cortisone or take cortisone and/or = anti-histamine=20 tablets from your home doctor if you know from experience that = you=92ll have a=20 problem. Locals recommend a lemon juice rub down to neutralize the = toxins and=20 allergic reaction followed by the local product Tiger Balm (some claim = that=20 Silver Clove is a better product) ointment or Balsem (balm) or liquid = Minyak=20 Angin in a green bottle from local Apotics to ease the rash and itch. = Jerman=20 Caplung, green menthol sort of stuff also from local Apotics, take = care of the=20 itch. Ypu're safer if there are cushions on the chair, which is = becoming more=20 common, or carry a hand towel to put over the seat. It doesn't take = much of a=20 barrier to keep your beauty safe from them. Try not to wear short = shorts or=20 dresses and don=92t rely on sarongs to protect your legs and butt. = Also watch=20 out if you are in the habit of resting your elbows or chest on the bar = =96 and=20 the bar has a cane edge. Very painful and = embarrassing.
    The local 'Apotics" (chemists or drugstores) are = really=20 very knowledgeable and helpful. Do not shun them if you need help or = disdain=20 local medications.
    Kimia Farma is a local chain of apotics. Kuta = (near=20 Animale), Tuban, Denpasar etc.
    *=20 Balsem Gosok is a good alternative to the likes of Vicks = VapoRub.  The=20 green minty style has good credentials. Also good for bites and = stings. All=20 sizes available including a little purse size which is good for = clearing the=20 nasal pipes in flight.
    * Silver Clove has also been recommended = (about=20 Rp20,000 or about Aus$3)tight muscles.
    * Lawar Root Oil is often = sold in=20 little bottle by wandering sellers. Really clove root oil. Its great = for=20 rheumatic type problems and no problem to bring back into Oz despite = the plant=20 root that is in the bottle. It never seems to run out or loose its = value if=20 you keep topping it up with Baby oil or your local favourite massage = oil.=20 Prices are around Rp15-25,000. Called Minyak Oles Bokashi it often = comes in a=20 white bottle with green label. Headaches, gargle, mozzie bites, = infections,=20 scratches and grazes, upset stomach, burns, eczema, rashes, = dermatitis,=20 bathwater for freshness, infections, muscle aches, temporary tattoo = rashes,- -=20 - -, Contains citronella, coconut, peppermint, cajuput and other = plants and=20 oils. Sells for about Aus$12.50 in Oz.
    * Minyak Angin; coughs colds = etc.=20 Sniff it, gargle it, put a few drops in black tea, rub on sore areas = if the=20 skin is not broken (stings like hell), rub on chest, throat etc before = sleep.=20 Also tooth ache administered to the tooth with a cotton stick. Cap = Lang=20 similar. Also Minyak Kayu Putih, Minyak Kepala (coconut oil for = massage),=20 Minyak Telon (stomach aches),No problem bringing back into Oz.
    * = Pesan for=20 pain and inflammation.
    * = Paramex=20 for migraine.
    * Local Tramadol (Tramal or generic Zydol by scrip = only in=20 Oz) is Rp7,200 for 10!! Tramal also available but costs Rp75,000, no = scrip=20 required. Best painkiller except for opiates.
    * Ponstan is an=20 anti-spasmodic like buscopan. Popular with women in the 60's and still = going.

  46. Similarly beware of jellyfish=20 stings. An immediate treatment is lots of vinegar poured over the site = followed by an anti-histamine injection as soon as possible. Adrenalin = injections also work but only if anti-histamines are not=20 available.

  47. Beware of temporary tattoos.=20 Many people have severe reactions to the chemical cocktail called PDD = which is=20 used instead of real henna, and which is toxic and can cause liver and = kidney=20 problems. Most severe in children where the effects may be = life-long!!!! Refer=20 to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html .=20 Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief. Researchers in = Germany=20 have also uncovered a link between temporary tattoos and permanent, = lifelong=20 dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). Sufferers remain allergic = to some=20 metals, detergents and foods.
    Be even more careful of permanent = Tattoos.=20 Ensure that you un-seal any sterile equipment and that you see the gun = sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes as these can also = transmit Hep=20 C.

  48. Do not risk unprotected sex in=20 Bali. AIDS/HIV are at declared =91concentrated = epidemic levels=92=20 (Kuta Conference 2004) in Indonesia, and Bali is a part of Indonesia = with a=20 high level of comparatively wealthy travellers and consequently a high = level=20 of sex workers and =91incidental=92 sexual activity. In '07 evidence = indicated=20 that for the first time the greatest proportion of new infections = resulted=20 from sexual activity rather than drug use and that over 10% of the = known=20 prostitutes were HIV/AIDS infected. It is estimated ('07) that  = well over=20 half of the sex customers in Bali are at risk of serious infection if = THEY=20 THEMSELVES do not take precautions. The 2004 conference detailed = 90-3,000=20 known cases of infected people but in 2007 the total number of cases = was over=20 4,000 including 60 cases amongst secondary students.  67% of = cases are=20 linked to sexual transmission and 33% to drug use.
    Evidence = suggests that=20 one third of cases result from shared needles in drug use and the = remainder=20 mainly from sexual activity. Drug use, possession = and sale in=20 Indonesia is a very risky business with incarceration in some of the = worst=20 third world gaols being only part of the risk. That friendly supplier = who is=20 offering you a trip to paradise is very likely to be a police informer = as well=20 as an addict who will finger you to ensure his own protection.
    The = National=20 Narcotic Agency (BNN) reported 4389 cases of HIV/AIDS - April '05 = figures. 53%=20 of these were in Bali and are claimed to have resulted from shared = drug/needle=20 use. t is further claimed that these figures, although official, are = only 'the=20 tip of the iceberg' with most cases not being reported or not being = detected=20 and so not being treated.
    In 2007 new cases of AIDS = accumulated at=20 almost 50 a month!
    Condoms are available. Many travellers = recommend=20 bringing your own. In '07 a specialised condom shop opened in the = Discovery=20 Mall centre on Jl Kartika Plaza in Tuban. Very small but easy to see = in its=20 bright red paintwork. The range is 'mind boggling' according to the = local=20 press report.
    The most active brothels are in Jl Danau Poso, Sanur. =
    There are no compulsory medical checks of sex workers in = Indonesia. On=20 Bali, recent census results indicate 8,000 'commercial sex workers' in = Bali=20 serve (?) 90,000 clients. Part of the 'tsunami' of AIDS is attributed = to the=20 spread of night entertainment venues with their attendant commercial = sex=20 workers, into the suburban fringes and rural areas.

  49. Cuts and = scratches.=20 TREAT THEM! Try local Teih Ta Yao Gin Chinese medicine as dressing. If = you=20 want to take something with you try =91Savlon". Locals love to get the = remainder=20 in the tube when you leave.

  50. Mosquitos. = Cover up at dusk.=20 Mozzies love light coloured skin. Baygon electric repellent dispensers = at=20 night. Cheap in Bali. Amcal chemists have citronella wrist bands in = funky=20 colours and patterns for kids. No worries about areas missed with rub = on=20 stuff.  Some travellers recommend mixing lavender oil with hand = cream for=20 a nicer smelling repelant.

  51. =91Autan=92 insect=20 repellent is available in Bali at Matahari stores or =91Apotics". = Pink tube=20 or lotion in pink bottle. Smells better to humans than Aerogard. =
    Ask=20 restaurants to light a mosquito coil and put it under your dinner = table.=20
    Carry a stick of dry =91Repel=92 in your bum bag. (ps. Put a small = flash light=20 in there too, just for the normal power failures and for walking home = in=20 poorly lit streets with un-even surfaces.)
    Dusk and dawn are the = bad times=20 for mozzies.
    RID and OFF are also good.
    =91Skin-So-Soft=92 by = Avon also=20 works for some.
    Generally repellents containing DEET (NOT=20 RECOMMENDED for young children nor for frequent, generous application = to=20 adults =96 see the =91NO=20 DEET=92 note under =91Health=92, above.) are good although some = smell so bad=20 that humans are repelled also. Body chemistry seems to react = differently to=20 different products.
    If you are bitten despite all your precautions = then=20 use =91Soov=92 gel, Australian made by Ego Pharmaceutical, with = antiseptic and=20 anaesthetic properties, its magic! Also recommended is a local product = (Yes,=20 the locals also get bitten) called Tiger Balm. Rp6,000 for a small jar = with a=20 yellow screw top. Stings like crazy for a second when applied to fresh = bites=20 but then the itching is all gone.
    There are also lotions available = that=20 combine sunscreen and insect repellent. Ask at your pharmacy or check = in your=20 local Army Surplus Store.

  52. Ultra Swim shampoo, or Aloe Rid (by = Nexus), for=20 getting pool chlorine out of your hair thereby keeping blondes the way their menfolk prefer them. Hair = Conditioner=20 is sometimes called Hair Cream.

    Megan Gale has invisible = zinc cream in=20 tubes that is great for bare scalp in partings etc. $30 for 150=20 grams.
    Anika Salon = and Spa in=20 Tuban is a recommended hairdresser. There are others; see = 'Hairdressers' in=20 the alphabetic index above.
    To prevent green chlorine hair from = pool use=20 try Purifying shampoo or a cheap shampoo or even, on a once-only basis = use=20 soap or a little dishwashing detergent to strip the hair of past = build-up.=20 Then use Delva Solar Care both before and after pool use. If you=92ve = got a bad=20 dose another trick is to use any purple/blue coloured shampoo as the = colour=20 ingredient tones down yellow/green colours in the hair.
    Talk to = your own=20 hairdresser before you go to Bali if you are prone to green tinges = from pool=20 chlorine. If they are any good they will know your hair = characteristics and=20 will recommend a product to use. Delva Spray Sheen is a daily = moisturiser=20 which will help most hair develop some resistance to chemical attack. = Begin=20 using it before you go.
    Frizzy hair because of the humidity = in Bali?=20 Banish the half Afro look with these suggestions that will not make = your hair=20 oily =96     = = <= /TR>= = =
    3Dbullet

    * Sunsilk Curl booster and Anti=20 = Frizz,

    3Dbullet

    * Garnier Fructis Sleek =91n = Shine Smoothing=20 = Serum,

    3Dbullet

    * Schwartzkopf Leave-in Shine=20 = Treatment,
    3Dbullet

    * Schwartzkopf = Frizz-Free,

    3Dbullet

    * l=92Oreal Liss Serum =96 can be = used=20 = daily,

    3Dbullet

    * VO5 Leave-in Conditioner=20 = Spray,

    3Dbullet

    * Cristalli Anti-Frizz -=20 $24.95.

  53. SUNSCREEN =96 = If you believe=20 you can=92t be sunburnt you=92ve never been to Bali. Most brands of = sunscreen are=20 available, but not cheaply, in Bali supermarkets. Use nothing less = than 15+ -=20 30+ and more as necessary. It should be re-applied frequently on any = bare=20 skin. Really it=92s best not to have any bare skin. Take a look at the = burnt=20 boobs on Kuta beach any day. How nightly activities are pleasurable is = beyond=20 comprehension. Farmland 15+ in pump pack is good. Includes = moisturiser. Also=20 good for massages, particularly with a little of the local Tiger Balm = or=20 Silver Clove ointments. Most local massage oils are just coconut = bastes for=20 cooking flesh and are difficult to wash off.
    Absolute Magic, Bingo, = also=20 Rid+ with anti-mosquito agent for sand fly infested evenings. Similar=20 combination preparations are also available at Army Surplus Stores.=20

  54. A BALI FIRST-AID = KIT.
    Despite the very good doctors and chemists (Apotics) in = the=20 southern tourist areas one traveller took more than the usual = precautions that=20 might be of interest to others -
    Antibiotic ointment (Betadine) or=20 similar),
    Antibiotic tablets,
    Antifungal = cream/powder,
    Panadol, in=20 suspension if for children,
    Antihistamine=20 (Clarantyne),
    Band-aids,
    Calamine lotion =96 Stingose = gel,
    Gauze=20 bandage, non-stick if possible,
    Electrolyte replacement tablets to = replace=20 lost fluids, Hydrolyte can be frozen like an iceblock stick for=20 children,
    Imodium for adults, Donnagel for kids,
    Insect = repellent, with=20 or without DEET, RID roll-on is handy to carry in your bum = bag,
    Personal=20 medications as required =96 with prescriptions in case you are = questioned in=20 Customs,
    Safety pins and scissors =96 (not in your hand = luggage),
    Soap,=20 sunscreen and Aloe Vera for sun burn,
    Non-mercury = thermometer,
    Ti Tree=20 Oil antiseptic,
    Toilet paper and hand/nose tissues and =91Wet=20 Ones=92,
    Tweezers.
    To this you might want to add - = Imodium,=20 sterile water (small packs), sterile strips and pads, Aquim waterless = hand=20 wash, antiseptic powder, mozzie coils, tropical mozzie repellent - = remember=20 'tiger mozzies' attack during the day and give dengue fever, = anti-sting=20 treatment, Aqua ear, sunscreen, zinc, mercyndol or other medication if = you get=20 migraines, waterproof=20 wound dressing in a spray pack.
    Carrying this pack will surely keep = you fit=20 and well!
    If you have an allergy that = requires=20 medication from time to time, take the medication with you as it may = not be=20 available in Bali. Also have a letter from your doctor that clears = your=20 prescription through any Customs inspections. Indonesian authorities = are=20 (rightly in some cases) suspicious of tablet, capsule and injectable=20 medicines.
    ***  Be aware that Codiene is a prohibited drug = in=20 Indonesia - and that means Bali.

  55. ELECTRICITY; = The=20 Indonesian supply is 220 volts at 50 cycles or Hertz. Multipoint adaptors (to connect the world=92s various = plugs to the=20 Indonesian socket which has 2 round plugs) are provided by most hotels = if you=20 phone Room Service or Housekeeping. Speak clearly and with an = explanation when=20 you ask for an adaptor or you=92ll get a doctor, as friends of ours = once did.=20  
    Electrical=20 adaptors that allow you to use your normal home appliances in overseas = countries come in several different types.
    Find out which one you = need for=20 any destination at www.korjo.com/cpa/htm/fs_secondary.asp?load=3D= htm_adaptor_guide.asp&page_id=3D6=20 or www.voltagevalet.co= m/country/all.html. =20 or at https://www.volta= gesvalet.com/country/all.html.=20
    These adaptors can also be purchased at the department stores = in Bali=20 for about Rp20,000 which is a bit over US$2. If you are a regular = visitor to=20 Indonesia it might be worth considering buying one of these and having = it=20 fitted to a power board of 4 outlets so that you have it available for = more=20 convenient multiple power outlets when you next visit.
    If your home = supply=20 is 110 volts and your electrical equipment does not have a 110/220 or = 110/240=20 switch you will need to get a voltage converter to step the Indonesian = 220=20 volts down to 110 volts. These are best purchased in your home country = as they=20 are surprisingly difficult to find in Bali and if you do they are = bulky and of=20 unreliable quality.

  56. Things which = it  might be=20 wise to check are your phone charger, camera chargers, electric = toothbrushes,=20 travelling clothes irons, hair curlers, shavers, hair dryers, laptop = chargers=20 etc.

  57. Electrical=20 equipment and appliances are generally risky buys in Bali as the = warranty will=20 probably not be honoured at home. An exception might be portable DVD = players=20 which will overcome the frustration of a hotel with only Indo=20 programs.

  58. SHIPPING:  Freight=20 & duty to and in Oz will be about the same as the cost of the = goods in=20 Bali, i.e. the cost of the goods landed in Australia will at least = double=20 their price in Bali. Keep your receipts. 
    An alternative that = we found=20 in '07 is a stout cardboard box of either 25 Kg capacity or a larger = 100 Kg=20 version that can be cut down to any size. These are available from DHL = freighters (At the airport or on Raya Seminyak.) and the freight rates = we=20 found were about a third of the excess luggage rate. It is not yet an = airport=20 to your door service but soon will be we were told. Shop early for the = heavy=20 stuff and freight it home while you shop on.
    EMS Indonesia Post = (Express=20 Mail Service), http://ems.posindonesia.co.id/.=20 Rp1.3 to 1.6 million for 20Kg; Aus$110 for 11.5Kg; including = insurance. Prices=20 vary from one PO to another. Freight is by air and to your door in Oz = or=20 elsewhere. PO staff must do the packing; no CD's or DVD's. Depending = on your=20 declared value Duty may be payable in Oz. Sea freight is cheaper but = much=20 longer.
    Note that Duty Free only applies to goods that actually = accompany=20 you on your trip home. If you post stuff you will have to pay duty, if = you=20 ever get items posted from Bali that is!
    Don=92t try to bring = banana products=20 into Oz. Water Hyacinth is a water weed often woven into table = runners, place=20 mats, cushion covers and the like. It is light brown in colour and = soft if=20 pressed with a finger nail. Customs/quarantine offers go ballistic if = they see=20 any little piece and frantically search for more. Many other plant = materials=20 will either cause you hassles or lots of money to have goods = fumigated.
    Try=20 to arrange your requirements with a freight-forwarder at home if you = can find=20 one with experience of Bali shipping. Later questions/problems can = more easily=20 be answered at home by a local agent.
    * Furniture to Oz =96Buy Bali = Direct. Harry Kellerman, Collaroy NSW, balidrec@ans.com.au .
    * = Mari =96 0361=20 759 980 =96 furniture to Australia.
    Note that much of the furniture in Bali is really made in = Java and just=20 finished in Bali. Much also is of poor quality under the surface = finish and=20 most is made from only partly dried timber that will shrink, warp and = crack=20 when you get it home unless your climate is tropical and therefore = very=20 similar to that of Bali.
    * Freight office at the entrance to Bumi = Ayu Hotel=20 in Sanur, across the road from Besakih.
    * Pt Twin Mandala = Indocargo,=20 Seminyak. E-mail twin@dps.centrin.net.id or = contact=20 Dewa Parwita =96 dewaparwita@hotmail.com.
    * Robin Furniture, = Kerobokan.=20 Quality teak. 6 seater dining table, Rp1,500,000; 6 chairs to match = Rp269,000.=20 Transport A$300/cubic metre to Sydney. Add 10% import duty and 10% = GST.
    *=20 Oka Sari Cargo. Ibu Agung speaks fluent English. =91Been using them = for years to=20 Oz. Highest recommendation=92.
    * Fullmoon Exports =96 Petitenget = Road,=20 KEROKOBAN, Kuta, Bali. Indonesia 80361. Ph 62 361 731 262, Fax 62 361 = 733 123.=20 E-mail info@fullmoonexport.bizla= nd.com. =20
    * Melody Kariata (ex-pat Aussie) and husband Wayan. Recommended by = Shar^kie. Melody Kariata, purnamabali@hotmail.com.
    *= =20 Balioky International Cargo. Ph + 62 (361) 755 156 Fax + 62 361 755 = 154.
    *=20 Ritra Cargo. Managed by Sari. Her E-mail is sari@ritra.com.
    * ASAS = International=20 Cargo. 62 361 465-601. See Arta or Agus.
    * Budi Prasetyo, WUS = Cargo, 728=20 335, Mob 081 238 463 22. =934 years no problem service.=94
    * PT = Abriadi Utama=20 Kargo for shipping freight. In Monkey Forest Road, Ubud, just around = the=20 corner opposite the markets. They will carefully pack for you. = About 10=20 weeks from Ubud to Melbourne Australia.
    * Karya Cargo in Sanur did = a good=20 job but Aus Customs would not accept the fumigation certificate and = insisted=20 on doing the job again at a cost of A$250.00. Probably a good idea to = e-mail=20 Customs while you are in Bali and make sure that they will accept = fumigation=20 certificates from any agent you want to use.
    * Sapta Prima Cargo. = Excellent=20 documentation for Aus Customs. Good packing. Reasonably quick delivery = too.
    * Mitha at Bali Buyers does shopping tours for home wares and=20 furniture and has freight contacts. Ph 0812 3800 599.
    * Indosakti = attracted=20 some consumer criticism in '05. Freight pre-paid was not honoured and = had to=20 be re-paid before clearance and delivery. Indosakti did not respond at = all to=20 calls! The latest news is that they seem to have=20 folded.
    * Sinta Maroe is a=20 recommended shipping agent and shopping tour organiser. Check her home = pages=20 at www.mohr4u.de/sinta.
    * = Avoid Bali=20 Bargain Hunters some would say. - 'Furniture in their hands January = '05 still=20 in Bali warehouse July '06 but they insisted that it was sent!?'
    * = Sint=20 Maroe recommended July '06.
    * IndoStyle are based in the central = Coast NSW=20 and ship into Sydney. Flat rate charges plus Sales Tax and Duty to = your door.=20 http://www.indostyle.com.au/. = Their=20 Bali end is handled by BaliMove.

  59. What will we do now hat Golden Bali has = closed=20 ('06) and Putu Les has gone to live in Bali??? Golden Bali travel agents (Adelaide office in South = Australia but=20 would quote anywhere) was run by =91Putu=92 Les Williams. Specialists = in Bali and=20 seemed to know it backwards and in all directions with a Bali office = to solve=20 your problems if any arose over there. The latest I heard from Les was = a=20 recommendation for Adelaide travellers to contact Josh Moore at Jetset = Norwood.

  60. Internet = Travel.
    *=20 Halo-bali.com ,
    * baliroomfinder.net ,
    * asiatravel.com (**), =
    *=20 baliwww.com/bali-villas/index3.htm.
    * ABL Tours not recommended.=20

  61. South Yarra Travel has its adherents = and=20 detractors. Claims of unreliable and unfriendly service as well as = deceit=20 arose in =9203.

  62. BestFlights seem to be getting a = reputation for=20 advertising cheap packages that =91disappear=92 just before you rang = but there are=20 always others available at a higher cost. They get a bit agro if you = query the=20 sales people too! (2003). Try =91Bali Packages=92.  http://www.= bestflights,au/cgi-bin/5/flights?mainlist=20 . Ph 1300 767 757.

  63. In '05-'06 Nicki Lawson = got much=20 praise for her Nickno Travel (E-mail alltrav@bigpond.net.au.) = at = All Round=20 Travel on the Gold Coast but you don=92t have to live there. Her = service is=20 prompt and the price will be attractive. E-mail = alltrav@bigpond.net.au=20

  64. There have been cases of credit card = mis-use when=20 booking hotels through indo.com. Complaints seem to fall on deaf=20 ears.

  65. Bali Villas =96 the Bali Travel Forum = hosts =96 http://balitravelforum.com/ = =96 Guarantee=20 cheapest hotel accommodation but no discount air fares, except by = Singapore=20 Airways from US. An Australian service is due =91soon=92. =

  66. Travel = Insurance can=20 only be highly recommended. Medical costs are enough to ruin your = holiday and=20 quite a bit of your life thereafter if you=92re not covered. A single = doctor=92s=20 visit to your hotel to give you a shot for Bali Belly will cost you = A$120=20 (2003). Most decent travel insurance policies will ensure that you get = a full=20 refund on your return home.
    Some insurance is very good and not = expensive=20 although many travel agents stock lines are to be avoided.
    Also = recommended=20 is Covermore or internet providers (www.travelinsurancedirect.com.au), = your=20 private health insurer or perhaps your credit card provider or local = motoring=20 organisation. The thing not to overlook is the excess you will be = required to=20 pay. It can often turn a bargain into a nightmare when you have to = claim. Look=20 for the added cost to reduce the excess.

  67. Consistent = recommendation are=20 seen for http://www.onlinetravel= insurance.com.au/.=20 Cheap and no excess to pay when you have a claim.
    =92Cover More=92 (see above), through Flight Centre or = on-line or other=20 agencies refunds expenses without deducting any excess.     =

  68. Qantas "Attendants" (?) are regularly = reported to=20 be inattentive if not rude and aggressive! The 747=92s are real cattle = trucks.=20 Garuda are using new aircraft from Australia and have the most = favourable=20 reputation at the moment (2001) as well as being the cheapest carrier. =

  69. BOOKS:
    * =93At Cost Bali=94 =96 = easy to=20 carry/refer-to book. Ideal for first time travellers.
    * "The Knopf = Guides=20 to Bali", travel book.
    * "BaliPlus Guide Book", free in Bali. =
    * "Bali,=20 A Paradise Created" Balinese recent history by Australian Adrian = Vickers.=20 Periplus editions after 1996 are second printings. ISBN 0-945971-28-1. = Perhaps=20 the first book to read if you=92re serious about discovering the roots = of the=20 Balinese and their culture. It=92s very easy to read for what could be = called a=20 modern history text.
    * "Bali From the Air", Lloyd and Yogerst, R = Ian Lloyd=20 productions. Spectacular aerial views of the Bali countryside and = shores, each=20 with short location/explanation text.
    * The Rough Guide to Bali and = Lombok.=20 Recent, very accurate easy to carry.     http://www.travel.rough/ .
    * = =93The Other Side=20 of Morning=94 is Australian Ron Tassell=92s tale of the supernatural = aspects of=20 Bali=92s village culture experienced over two decades.
    * =93The Art = and Culture=20 of Bali=94, U Ramseyer edited by Schwabe and Basel. ISBN 3-7965-1886-9 = 1977 A=20 large and detailed work with lots of pictures to illustrate the points = made in=20 the text.
    * =93The Island of Bali=94. Miguel Covarrubias. One of = the earliest=20 books to describe Bali, and consequently seen as something of a = classic in the=20 history anthology list. A good perspective of the impact of tourism = from the=20 very beginning, detailed descriptions of life and everts and a host of = interesting old photos.
    * =93Bali; Living in Two Worlds. A Critical = self-portrait=94. Edited by Urs Ramsayer and published by the Museum = der=20 Kulturen in Basel. Mainly Balinese writers and photos by acclaimed=20 photographer Rama Surya. Available in Bali.
    * =93Jakarta Shadows=94 = is a fairly=20 new fiction and has remarkable insights into local history and culture = covering Bali and Java. It is available in Bali at Ganesha Books in = Ubud.
    *=20 =94Patch of Paradise=94 is Gaia Grant=92s story of her family = establishing a (now=20 successful) business in Bali. Good reading and will strike a chord in = those a=20 bit familiar with Bali.
    * =94A Little Bit One O=92Clock =96 Living = with a=20 Balinese Family=94 by W Ingram is the factual recounting of the lives = of a=20 American couple and their daily lives in Bali and their interactions = with a=20 Balinese family. Easy reading. ISBN 979-95322-0-5.
    * Our Hotel in = Kuta =96=20 Louise & Bob Koke. The story of the establishment of the first = hotel in=20 Kuta in the 1930s. Humorous in places and illustrated with period = photos. Easy=20 to read and entertaining.
    * Bali, Sekala and Niskala. F B Eiseman. = ISBN=20 0-945971-03-6 Three volumes of the deepest investigations of Bali and = its=20 cultural cosmos. =91Sekala=92 is the physical, visible side of Bali = and Niskala=92=20 is the hidden and mysterious spiritual Bali.
    * =93Bali Moon =96 A = Spiritual=20 Odyssey=94 Odyle Knight. Give it a miss if titles such as this = foretell of=20 things not in your style. Historical/cultural information not well = wrapped in=20 a story line. ISBN 1-86505-138-1.
     The following three reviews = come=20 from Sandra Alexander, with her recommendations = -
    * "Fragrant Rice" = by Janet de=20 Neefe, published 2003 by Harper Collins/Flamingo. Readily available = now. Janet=20 and her husband Ketut Suardana run the Casa Luna and Indus restaurants = in=20 Ubud, the Honeymoon Guesthouse and the Casa Luna Homewares Emporium. = Janet=20 also runs the very (and deservedly) popular Casa Luna Cooking School. = The book=20 is a memoir and a cookbook. Janet's lived in Bali for 14 years, and = reflects=20 on her time and her life on the island. Excellent background and = smashing=20 recipes.
    * "Island of Bali" by Miguel Covarrubias. Originally = published in=20 the 1930's, now published by Oxford. A classic and wonderful account = of=20 Balinese life. Extraordinary. Covarrubias was a Mexican-born = artist and=20 cartoonist who lived in the USA. He was a fine artist and as well a = cartoonist=20 for "Vanity Fair=94 - he was really well connected in the show = business circles=20 of his day. He and his wife spent quite some time in Bali in the = 1930's,=20 and the book is the result of their experiences. Beautifully written = with=20 superb illustrations - by Covarrubias of course. Still amazingly = current.
    *=20 "A House in Bali" by Colin McPhee, originally published 1944, = re-published=20 2002, Victor Gollancz. McPhee was a composer who lived for a long = time in=20 Bali in the 1930's. The new edition has an informative preface by = James=20 Murdoch. The book is as much about Balinese music as about 'a house'. =
    * In=20 The Arms Of Angels is a recent book by Kim Patras (an ex-pat, nurse = and=20 mother) which deals with the recent bombing in graphic detail. Highly=20 recommended if you want to either settle or stir the demons = within.
    * A=20 Short History of Bali. A very recent book (2004) which traces the = history of=20 Bali from Neolithic times to the present, including the infamous Kuta = bombing.=20 (Aus$30.) The author draws from a host of sources (all carefully = documented)=20 and provides a book that is an excellent first reader for those = becoming=20 interested in the history and development of Bali from the bronze/iron = age to=20 the recent Kuta bombing, including pre-tourist life, the Indian = influence=20 (ever wondered why the country is called =91Indonesia=92?) the Dutch = and Japanese=20 occupations, Hinduism/Islam and modern tourism.
    * The Butterflies = of=20 Bali.
    *     'Offerings' written by a local lady, Francine Brinkworth, is = available=20 in Bali and makes interesting reading.
    * Visitors to Bali are soon = aware of=20 the importance of the Arts to the Balinese. It seems at times as = though every=20 second meeting is with someone who is or aspires to be an artist of = some sort;=20 in painting and drawing, music, dance, drama, jewellery or other = adornment,=20 fabric and clothing and carving in stone and wood. The Balinese are = also proud=20 of their long history ands the artefacts recovered by archaeologists = that=20 record and give form to their history. Not surprisingly there are a = number of=20 major and many more minor museums and galleries to store, display and=20 occasionally sell art items. Finding these places, except for those = that are=20 very well known, is often a matter of luck or local knowledge. That is = until=20 2006 when the 'Treasures of Bali' was first published. In its = almost=20 200 pages of quality paper and colour photographs there are 21 = displays=20 individually listed as well as 22 smaller and or more commercial=20 establishments and detailed maps guiding the curious to each location. = Fir=20 those with an interest in archaeology, history and the various art = forms this=20 is more than just a nice coffee-table tome. Written and edited by = Richard Mann=20 with some minor proof reading errors slipping past Ian L Betts, the = book is=20 produced by Gateway Books International in collaboration with the = Museums=20 Association of Bali. IBSN 979-99853-4-X.
    * "Monumental Bali: = Introduction=20 to Balinese Archaeology and Guide to the Monuments" is another book = for those=20 with an interest in the history, heritage  and archaeology of the = island=20 and it's neighbours. AJ Bernet Kempers is the author and the book is = published=20 by Periplus, 1991.
    **  Not exactly a map but maybe better - a = web site=20 containing a GPS map of Bali that can be downloaded to your modern = phone. Go=20 to www.balinavigator.com/ . Not cheap to buy the various Garmin-based = units=20 but rentable from only US$7 per day. (Oct'08).

  70. DICTIONARIES:
    * Bali Pocket Dictionary is a = three-way=20 dictionary (English, Indonesian and three levels of Balinese) usually = stocked=20 in the book departments of Tiara Dewata ("Where the locals shop") and = Matahari=20 stores in Denpasar. It is published by Yayasan Swastiasu. It makes a = good=20 =91Oleh oleh=92 (gift) for some Balinese families.
    * Other = dictionaries are=20 =91Kamus Indonesia Inggris=92 =96 John M Echols and =91English = Indonesian Dictionary=92=20 =96 Hassan Shadily. Many such books are fairly easily obtained in Bali = but not=20 so easy in your home country perhaps.
    * Periplus =91Practical = Balinese=92 (they=20 do a good fold out map of Bali too) written by Gunter Spritzing has = basic=20 Balinese (Note: not Bahasa Indonesia but Balinese, which is little = used these=20 days.) and the Aksara script and common travellers phrases.
    * On = the Web=20 try www.ewgate.com/ewtranslit= e.html =20 (Chinese and Malaysian also), The Risanda page has a basic translation = option,=20 www.e-rice.com/dictionary.a= sp.=20

  71. There is now ('05) an = Indonesian=20 language version of the National = Geographic=20 magazine available in Bali. 'NG' as it's commonly referred to is = one of=20 the world's great magazines, despite accusations of an American bias = by some.=20 It is a great way to bring a view of the world at large to Indonesians = and it=20 seems to appeal to all ages, the children being drawn to magnificent=20 photography and adults to maps and stories that seem to be written in = a=20 universal style appreciated by all. Subscriptions can be arranged at = the=20 Gramedia shops around the island for little more than my local = subscriptions=20 cost at home. I have subscriptions for orphanages and a friends = housekeeper's=20 school age children and all are welcomed and passed on and on and = on.=20

  72. MAPS: Maps of = Bali are=20 really difficult to get if you are looking for something special. I = use the=20 Bali map from Periplus Travel Map of Indonesia in the Regional series, = ISBN=20 0-945971-49-4 that costs about Aus$8. 
    *  Others = recommend Bali=20 Pathfinder that has some hiking and biking routes as well as the road = network.=20 Can be obtained from the Alas Arum supermarket in = Sanur. 
    *  Maps=20 on the net are either very vague or of a scale that obscures the = detail you=20 want if you=92re interested in a map. Try http://www.balipathfinder.com/ or do=20 a general search =93Bali+maps=94.
    *  In '06 I came across an = unexpected=20 source of maps in Bali, on the first floor of the SuperNova department = store=20 in Legian. If you want a valued gift for a school that's a bit = different get a=20 topographical one of 'Provinsi Bali' at 1:150,000 scale showing roads, = towns,=20 ports, rivers, lakes and provincial borders for only Rp20,450 or = Aus$3.00=20 approx. How cheap can a reasonable quality wall map get? They also had = similar=20 maps of Indonesia, Australia and the world.
    *  Periplus now = have a=20 Bali Street Atlas which covers an astonishing amount of Bali in great = detail.=20 3 different scales used according to size of town/village. Not real = cheap at=20 Rp165,000 (Aus$33) in Periplus stores in Bali Galleria, Warung Made=20 (Seminyak), the airport and Gramedia in Matahari=92s, but invaluable = if you=92re a=20 regular adventurer in Bali.
    *  A recently available = alternative to=20 maps is a GPS based pilot, hand-held or vehicle mounted. Now available = in Bali=20 to purchase or cheaply hire. Go to http://www.balinavigator.com/.= =20

  73. Book shops. = Glossy, high=20 class and much desired books are fairly expensive to buy in Bali but = there are=20 some swap and used book outlets for that holiday read. The main new = outlets=20 are Gramedia and Periplus.
    New book shops =96 At Periplus = in the Bali=20 Galeria complex near the airport road roundabout, on the ground floor. = On the=20 first floor is Gramedia, also on the 4th level of Matahari's in Kuta = and in=20 Denpasar. Periplus are also in Legian Street, Seminyak, near = Made=92s=20 Warung. In Ubud on Jl Raya near Ary=92s Warung. In the basement of = Matahari's =96=20 mainly in Indonesian but some in English. A variety of comics here = also as=20 well as some classy foreign magazines. Charisma above the KFC store = next to=20 the petrol station on Jl Raya Kuta is mainly a Christian and = educational=20 outlet but some general stock also.     Reading books and = 'coffee=20 table' style books are stocked by the Bintang (meaning =91star=92) = Supermarket in=20 Legian/Seminyak. A wide selection available there and also at a = Periplus=20 bookshop a little further along Jl Seminyak. Some other supermarkets = also have=20 book sections, like the top floor of Matahari's in Kuta. Ubud has the = renowned=20 Ganesha Bookshop in Monkey Forest Road where the assistants are very=20 knowledgeable.
    Used and = swap=20 shops =96 Many hotels have a small library of books that guests = can borrow.=20 You can also add to these collections for future guests and to = maintain the=20 stock levels as some inevitably go off to travel with guests who = leave. At=20 shops ask for the return price before you buy. It should be about half = of the=20 cost but it will be next to nothing if you don=92t clarify the issue = first.=20
    At Garuda in Ubud, near the post office.
    In Poppies Lane II in = Kuta,=20 next to the fish and chip shop. The books here are repaired by the = owner and=20 sold with justifiable pride by the owner. English, Dutch, German and = French=20 languages abound. Prices from Rp80,000.
    There is also one in = Poppies I, on=20 the left if you're going to the beach, about mid way.
    In Candi Dasa = on the=20 hills side of the main road there are two bookshops.
    Near Bemo = Corner in=20 Kuta, turn left from Legian Street and go towards Denpasar. Look for a = Circle=20 K and a hairdresser.
    On Padma Utara near the Melasti Beach Hotel. = Nirwana=20 is near Bemo corner in Kuta.
    In Sanur the Kalimantan Restaurant on = Jl=20 Pantai Sindhu has a 'help yourself/swap shelf of some size. Good, = cheap eats=20 too.
    Also a small stall along the beach front between Bonsai = Restaurant=20 and Beno's just past the DVD stall. Run by Coco. Good selection. =
    There is=20 a second hand book shop next to the All Seasons Hotel on Padma Utara = at the=20 start of the Three Brothers Lane. Good stocks.

  74. Astronomy your = thing? The=20 southern sky is visible in Bali and northern hemisphere visitors find = this=20 exciting and strange. To get a fore-taste of what you=92ll see go to = http://www.heavens-above.com/ = , enter=20 =91Denpasar=92, the date(s) of your holiday, select =91Whole Sky = Chart=92 and enjoy=20 the view. Print off a copy to take with you as a reference. You=92ll = see the=20 famous (in Australia and neighbours at least) Southern Cross (or = Crux). An=20 avid amateur star-gazer in Bali is =91Balibent=92. If you contact him = by posting=20 on the Bali Travel Forum he can perhaps arrange a telescopic session = for=20 you.
    Speaking of stars the Bahasa Indonesia word is =91Bintang=92 = which is also=20 the name of the local beer that you=92re sure to enjoy while it=92s = helping avoid=20 your dehydration.

  75. DOGS in Bali = are often near=20 starvation but they don=92t have rabies. They are generally not pets = and should=20 be treated at least with respect if not caution. The Balinese = traditionally=20 regard them as reincarnations and evil spirits, consequently they try = not to=20 see them, or at least ignore them, although when they cannot do so = they treat=20 them with gentleness and respect (or is it just caution?). There are = some=20 obvious signs that this is slowly changing as a result of an = educational and=20 care campaign carried out in recent years. More and more dogs are = actually=20 appearing to be healthy =96 but still don=92t treat them as pets.
    I = recall the=20 time a very mangy beach dog with pups insisted on sleeping under the = sun=20 lounges near a hotel pool. This obviously could not be accepted and = eventually=20 it was the pool attendant who accepted the responsibility of doing = something=20 about her. Armed with nothing more than a paper serviette he talked = softly and=20 gently to the dog, with no obvious threats or intimidating sounds and = the dog=20 responded by slowly raising herself from a comfortable repose with the = pups=20 and ambling off back to the beach.
    The guests applauded the pool=20 attendant, as much for his gentle approach I think as for his bravery = in doing=20 something no one else had the courage to try.
    There are currently = two=20 organisations in Bali dedicated to helping sick and injured animals of = all=20 types. Desexing is an essential part of their service. The = long-established=20 Yudisthura Swarga Foundation, =91Bali Street Dogs Foundation=92, has = been at work=20 for a number of years and now has a fully equipped mobile clinic. Look = at http://www.balistreetdogs.org.= au/=20 . or www.yamp.com/balidogs. Their=20 clinic number is (361) 742 4048. Dr Listriani's mobile is 081 2390 = 3756 and=20 the Clinic aide (named Dayu) is 081 2363 6925.
    The 'Bali Society = for the=20 Protection of Animals=92 is a more recent assembly of carers who have=20 established a shelter with a full time caretaker to tend sick animals. = All=20 involved are volunteers giving time when necessary to picking up and = caring=20 for sick animals. Their Clinic number is 7(361) 742 4048. Dr = Listrian's number=20 is 081 2363 3756.  The Carer number is 081 2363 6925 (Dayu). = Sarita=92s=20 mobile is 081 236 57927. The address of the shelter is Jl Graha = Wisata=20 No1A, Sidakarya, Denpasar Selatan.
    Dr Restiati is another = recommended Vet.=20 His number is (0361) 744 2430.
    Donations of dry food (expensive to = buy in=20 Bali =96 airlines will often grant passage to overweight baggage if = prior=20 approvals are obtained from local offices), clean bedding, medicines = etc, are=20 welcomed by both groups. Vets travelling to Bali might consider giving = a day=20 of their professional services.
    * There is a growing awareness of = dogs as=20 pets both within the ex-pat community and the = Balinese=20 themselves. In =9203 we noticed a number of pet shops appearing. There = is one=20 opposite the Supernova in Kuta which has a wide range of products but = which=20 regrettably keeps dogs for sale in appalling conditions. One which is = becoming=20 well known for dog and cat clothing is the Dogs Tail on Jl Raya = Seminyak 4C,=20 Seminyak. Ph 731 111. Its next to Made's Warung. =91Expensive but = cute.=92 There=20 is even a dog trainer and consultancy offering obedience training, = behaviour=20 therapy, socialisation and boarding. Phone R Christine on 081 238 139 = 28. Two=20 shops are to be found close together in Legian street between Padma = and=20 Seminyak proper.

  76. FURNITURE =96 = See also Shipping = =96 above.=20 Beware of any banana material if returning to Australia.
    Mari of = Mari=92s=20 Gallery, Melasti Street. Ph 759980 or 0811 388 697. Her English is = excellent=20 and she is honest.
    Kenny, Seminyak. Most drivers know where to find = him.=20
    Made Patra. E-mail tamukami@indosat.net.id = which is a=20 hotel run by Made=92s wife, Miss Mudiasih.
    Beware Jimbaran Rattan, = run by=20 Susie & Yoga Iswara at 38X on the By Pass road at Jimbaran. =
    Geneva=20 Handcrafts and Geneva Furniture, Jl Raya Kerobokan, No 100. Ph (62 = 361) 733=20 571. About Rp10,000 cab fare from Legian.

  77. Storage of goods = and bags is=20 available at Ngurah Rai Airport. Turn to the left as you leave the = arrivals=20 hall. Or is it right since the renovations? Anyway it=92s behind = McDonalds=20 towards the end of the buildings. Charges are Rp5,500 per item per = day. It=20 appears well organised and reliable - under the sign, "Titipan = Barang".=20

  78. Official rate for luggage handling by = porters at the airport is Rp1,500/item. (Approx Aus = 35=20 cents.) The Chief of the Airport Authority requests that porters = demanding=20 more be reported to him. However, this is perhaps not the best time to = be=20 technically correct but mean spirited.
    Don't pay the porters until = your=20 bags are in the taxi or they'll leave you at the kerb or the taxi = window and=20 you'll have to pay another lot to get to the car.

  79. If you want to use an airport lounge to pass the waiting time or = to avoid=20 late check-out costs at your hotel the situation is confusing. You can = follow=20 some recommendations and try the Prada Lounge just past the  = immigration=20 desks in the departure level of Ngurah Rai airport between gates 5/6 = and=20 7/8/9. Rp100,000 (don't fall for any request for more than this nor = believe=20 the story that the Premier Lounge around the corner does not allow = Qantas=20 passengers) for nice soft seating, international and Asian food, full = bar=20 service, showers etc, free local phone calls wide TV reception (but = all=20 Indonesian), papers and magazines. Some would say that, at the price, = it is=20 better than the Premier Lounge near departure gate No1 on the floor = above=20 which costs US$20 or about Rp195,000 (US$20) although other travellers = claim=20 just the opposite.
    The Dewa Dewi Lounge at Ngurah Rai costs=20 Rp100,000.

  80. Which ever lounge you = choose to use do=20 NOT rely on any promised 'personal' flight calls; watch the clock=20 yourself!

  81. Taxi = voucher desk is on=20 the right as you leave airport reception. It=92s about 25 paces from = the exit=20 door. Look for the glass window, probably at the head of a long queue. = See=20 also the DRIVERS=20 section below.
    Advertised fares from the airport are: (A complaint = in '06=20 was that they tried to get you to pay above the fixed rate. Point to = the price=20 board if the do and they'll apologise - Very sorry. Mistake. !!!)
    - = to Kuta=20 Rp45,000 (although its only about Rp15-20,000 on the meter of a street = taxi=20 you can find down by the local terminal about 100 meters to you right = as you=20 leave the International one. Be aware that they are not allowed to = come up to=20 the big terminal to collect your luggage.); to Legian Rp50,000, = Seminyak=20 55,000, Oberoi 60,000, Kerobokan 50,000, Jimbaran 60,000, Four Seasons = 60,000,=20 Nusa Dua 85,000, Sanur 85,000, Denpasar 60-80,000, Ubud 175,000, Candi = Dasa=20 300,000, Canggu 110,000, Tanah Lot 170,000.

  82. Most cheaper=20 VCD=92s are mainly terrible copies or filmed from the theatre screen = priced at=20 Rp25,000. Originals (or copies of) priced at Rp54-75,000 are fairly = good. Test=20 them if you can =96 reject them if you can=92t.

    DVD=92s are a = good buy. Rp50,000 at=20 Ramayana and other large department stores ('02). Rp60,000 around = Kuta. In '04=20 we were buying for less than Rp10,000 each in larger quantities. =
    Most of=20 the shops that sold computer software and music CD's a year or so ago = have now=20 closed or switched to movie DVD's because they are far more lucrative. = In '05=20 I brought back 8 computer program discs for myself and friends but = Herself=20 brought home over 100 movie DVD's. You can guess who got most = attention in the=20 shops!
    There are many outlets. Check the 'SHOPPING' advice in the = Districts=20 sections for TUBAN-KUTA, LEGIAN-SEMINYAK and=20 SANUR-DENPASAR.
    Helgie is an = established=20 supplier of DVD's, CD's and game discs who has opened a new shop = (=9205) in=20 Tuban on Jl Wana Segara (the Balihai Resort ex Holiday Inn, SA Cafe = etc=20 street). The range on view is not great but doubtless copies will be = obtained=20 if you ask.
    The new kid on the block for computer software might be = Istana=20 CD in the newish Kuta Mal Galeria on the opposite side to the bus/bemo = park=20 and Ace Hardware. He has a large stock for both PC's and Macs = (surprise) and=20 has them organised into categories on his racks. He is also prepared = to be=20 helpful if you ask.

  83. DVD virus = first appeared in=20 =9204. Check by putting your DVD=92s in a computer that has a good = virus=20 checker.
    To open got to My Computer, right click on the DVD drive = icon.=20 Click Search. To All or part of the file name enter this string - = *.hex;*.bin=20 =96 Enter. (Note the semi-colon.) If there are any hex or bin files do = not use=20 that disc in a stand-alone DVD player or it will freeze up. It is OK = to view=20 on the computer which is not affected.
    Similar virus=92 have also = been=20 reported on photo CD=92s. One way to avoid them with the new self-use = machines=20 is said to be not dragging from the card icon to the computer icon to = get a CD=20 burnt. Select 'copy' or similar. Don't drag files back onto your card=20 icon.

  84. Music CD=92s = Rp60-80,000. Double=20 albums Rp140,000. PC CD games Rp 35,000. ('05)

  85. MP3=92s Rp35,000 = with 200 tracks.=20

  86. PHOTOGRAPHY = =96 Digital is=20 obviously the way of the future and good mid-range SLR digital cameras = with=20 larger CCD's (charge coupled devices or 'image recorders') should be = on the=20 market at realistic prices by the end of '05. The era of endlessly = changing=20 low end 'Happy Snapper' models is showing signs or slowing down = perhaps=20 because the market is saturated with newer models that do a really = good job in=20 hands that are a bit more skilled and knowledgeable than average. =
    Be aware=20 that the increasing number of 'photo kiosks' or self use print = machines that=20 take your camera chip give you ink printed pictures on good quality = absorbent=20 papers. They do not use the light sensitive papers of true photography = and the=20 sharpness and durability of the prints are both inferior to 'real'=20 photos.
    You can still buy normal photographic films ('06) and have = them=20 processed in the normal way (negatives and prints) but ask for = digitised=20 processing as well. All your images are digitised on the CD ROM for = $12 extra.=20 There are many outlets and '1 hour' shops giving terrible quality = because of=20 the smaller quantity of work these days means that machines are not = run up to=20 correct temperatures and chemical solutions are kept well past their = use-by=20 dates.
    Frontech FOTO will develop digital images onto normal = photographic=20 paper. They are in Jl Raya Kuta.
    Sanur Dewata Foto Digital Studio = 60, in Jl=20 Danau Buyan (just near the traffic lights), will download digital = pictures=20 onto CDs from your camera or from flash cards. Their charge is = Rp70,000 per=20 CD, with as many images as will fit onto the disc. Prints can also be = made at=20 prices up to Rp45,000 for the largest. There are a growing number of = stores=20 that will now do the same thing. Mid =9204 prices were Rp1600/postcard = size=20 print =96 about 30 cents Aust. To Rp9,700 (about $1.85 Aust) for a = 10=94 x 8=94=20 enlargement. Your memory device goes into their computer and you = select the=20 shots you want.
    Fuji Pantai Digital Foto Centre in Jl Legian 204, = Kuta, is=20 also recommended
    Beware of virus infections = in your=20 memory devices. One outlet to pass on a virus is at the intersection = of=20 Poppies II and Legian another the Kodak shop in front of the Dynasty. = They=20 were cheap and proved to be dirty too. Your download computer, with a = good=20 virus program, will quarantine the file and will clean it up.
    If = you want=20 to do your own downloads laptop = computers can=20 be hired in Bali but the age and quality of the machines is not known = in =9204.=20 Try Dhidli at dhidhi143@yahoo.com.=20
    Buy the most memory that you can afford for your camera. Bali will = bedazzle you with photo opportunities. Download onto CD=92s which will = hold=20 about 60 pics, depending on the resolution you choose of course. Take = your own=20 top quality CD=92s as some shops will download onto junk CD=92s.
    A = wide range=20 of memory devices can be downloaded at Legian Cyber in Sahadewa street = Legian.=20 Rp25,000 on their CD=92s or Rp15,000 on your own. Internet facilities = there=20 also.
    Get your good shots enlarged in Bali =96 it=92s very cheap = and the=20 quality is quite reasonable.
    Get an extra print as a present for = your=20 Balinese friends. See point 5 under =91Remember =96 cultural things=92 = below.
    If=20 you are planning to go snorkelling get a disposable underwater camera. = Cheaper=20 in Oz ($14) than in Bali. Big-W, K-mart etc often have them on = special, very=20 cheap.
    Cameras often suffer from fogging when they are taken out = of=20 air-conditioned rooms into the heat and humidity outside and even when = they're=20 taken out of cars with good A/C systems. Give it time to clear from = the lens.=20 Try keeping your camera wrapped up in some clothing in a cupboard or = drawer=20 away from the coldest blast of the A/C for fewer problems. Digital = equipment=20 often have humidity sensors that will turn things off and prevent = short=20 circuiting until they have dried out a bit. Open up battery covers and = storage=20 media covers or tape doors to hasten the drying process which can take = up to=20 45 minutes.

  87. Photography = is commonly=20 accepted in Bali, even in temples during most ceremonies. Some beach = rats will=20 ask you for payment after you=92ve snapped them. Ask, "Bisa ambil = foto?" (Can I=20 take a photo?) if in doubt.

  88. Camera = repairs. Call Mr=20 Iwan (Ivan?) Widiantara, Ph (0361) 486 961 (or +62 361 486 961) or 081 = 2397=20 7974. His address is registered in Bali Traveller Guide, Ruko Terminal = Tegal=20 Sari 27, Jalan Imam Bonjol, Denpasar. In business for over 20 years.=20

  89. Simple watch=20 repairs might be undertaken by any of the watch sellers all over = Bali but=20 for your valuable home watch (or clocks) try the shop opposite the = Ramayana=20 Department store in Denpasar. If you're looking for a good (genuine) = watch or=20 clock at much better prices than at home try them. In '07 a Citizen = Eco drive=20 date/waterproof watch was Aus$100.
    Another watch mechanic who is a = repairer=20 of above average abilities and a bit handier than the shop above is = Dudy=20 Kristiano of BWS Bali Watch Service. On the second floor of Matahari's = right=20 up in the very back left hand corner at a tiny little counter near the = Revlon=20 counter. Charged $43 for a repair that was quoted at over $200 in = Australia.=20 New extendable band and service to a 50 year old automatic watch for = Aus$70 in=20 '09, work that was laughed at back in Oz! Only after midday. Ph 081 = 337 340=20 953 or 081 338 660 154. If you want to buy a new, real watch = he'll take=20 you to the suppliers in Denpasar.
    Another repairer and seller of = genuine=20 watches is in the Bali Galleria in Sunset Road. The shop is just = outside=20 Matahari. An Aus$90 'just to look' was just $25 to fix here and after = 2 years=20 is still going strong.
    ** There is (or was in early '08) a = totally crook=20 watch seller (also sunglasses etc) in Jl Werkudara, Legian, in a = shop=20 called Puri Delta. Watches that don't work by the time = you get=20 back to your hotel will not be accepted for return nor even new = batteries of=20 the correct size fitted. Verbal and physical threats from the owner = and his=20 mates seem common. He probably won't stay there long but he may want = to re-use=20 his 'Puti Delta' signs. Be warned. Go to the Tourist Police if you're=20 threatened.

  90. Common 35mm films are readily available = throughout=20 Bali but for a range of special and better quality films (up to = professional),=20 best to bring them from home.
    Film is very slightly affected by = airport=20 x-rays. You=92re not likely to notice the changes unless you=92re = very fussy=20 and are using higher than standard quality films. If you=92re worried, = then ask=20 for it to be inspected manually rather than going through the = scanner.
    If=20 you are going to use films of above the normal standard it might be = better to=20 purchase them from a specialty photographic shop at home before you = go. They=20 are likely to be fresher and have probably been stored in cool = refrigerators.=20 Films of these qualities in Bali on the other hand, tend to sit on hot = shop=20 shelves for a long time in Bali =96 if indeed you can find them at = all.
    If=20 you keep your film in the bar fridge in Bali be very careful to let it = slowly=20 come up to room temperature before you seal it up in your camera where = condensation can do terrible things to both the film and the = camera.
    If you=20 are interested in taking photos for slides (shown on a screen or wall = using a=20 projector) you will be getting very fine grain film with dense and = brilliant=20 colours. These slides can be scanned and converted to superb photos = and web=20 pages to stun your family and e-mail contacts =96 but the process is = not=20 cheap.

  91. Days with sea breezes are better as the = tropical=20 haze is blown away a bit. The light seems softer than in Aus. US, = Europe,=20 perhaps because of the usual fires, humidity etc and some people = recommend=20 film with saturated emulsion such as =91Velvia=92.

  92. A piece of advice I can offer is the = use of those=20 very small and cheap tripods with springy wire legs that will fit = fairly=20 comfortably into a 'bum bag' if you don't have a camera bag.
    They = can be=20 screwed onto the bottom of most small cameras and the legs spread to = rest the=20 camera on a car bonnet or a wall or fencepost or up-turned box, = anything that=20 will keep the camera steady. (Do make sure that the car engine is = turned off=20 if you're using the bonnet, and that the kids are not about to jump in = and=20 have a fight.)
    Adjust the bend of the legs to point the thing in = the=20 required direction. Use the delayed shutter release mode of the = camera, you=20 know, the one that lets you press the button and then gives you time = to run=20 around the front and get into the picture yourself. This way you take = the shot=20 without any risk of the camera shaking in your hands as you press the = button.=20 Without doubt this camera movement causes the ruination of most shots, = and the=20 new crop of small pocket cameras with zoom lenses do, of course, = greatly=20 emphasise the smallest of shakes.

  93. Digital = photos can be=20 processed in Bali, the number of shops offering the service is = increasing. One=20 well established shop is Legian Cyber. They are in Sahadewa Street. = Also a=20 cyber caf=E9/internet shop. Try Frontec Photo, Jl Raya Kuta N0 104 = Blok D, Ph=20 751 222. Download your memory card to CDs - Rp50,000 on your own CD or = Rp=20 70,000 on a new CD. Prints Rp1800 each.

  94. COMPUTER = SOFTWARE =96 I=20 am amazed at the decline in availability of software in the 2 years = from '03=20 to '05. Some outlets have simply closed, some have stopped stocking = software=20 titles and others have only very limited offerings now. All have been=20 influenced by the more lucrative trade in DVD movies. This I = understand as I=20 buy 5 or 6 pieces of software while herself buys 100+ DVD's. In '09 I = found=20 Techron Computers on Jl Pulau Kawe 40C and Jl Dewi Sri No 9 , Kuta, Ph = (0361)=20 311 3603 or (361) 742 5271.
    See the shopping=20 section in the Denpasar District lists below and the Legian/Seminyak=20 section for more detailed information.

  95. Used=20 computers. If you would like to donate a second hand computer to a = sponsored child, a school, an orphanage or a friend then contact = Siddiq, a=20 local computer techie who keeps the computers of both locals and = ex-pats=20 running. Phone 08 123 803 444 (in Bali). Through his main work he has = an=20 up-to-date knowledge of what is available and where. Give him two or = three=20 days to check around and give you some options. He does not recommend = used=20 printers but through his contacts in the business he can pair a used = computer=20 with a new printer; Canon S200SP or I25P for about Rp 400-500,000 in = Feb '05.=20 Used desktop computers range up to about Rp1,000,000 depending on = chip, memory=20 and vintage. All up cost for a good system might therefore be = Rp1,500,000 or=20 Aus$225. That's probably better than you'll get in Oz and no excess = freight to=20 be added. Service of course would be provided locally in Bali at the = best=20 rates.
    In '05 we got a nice little NEC Versa Pro laptop, 1999 = model,=20 Celeron 333MHz chip,128Mb RAM and 6Gb HDD, running Windows Me and = loaded with=20 Office Pro 2000 for Au$300 or Rp2,250,000. It left a nice young girl = at the=20 Negara orphanage gobsmacked and over however long it takes she will = learn to=20 use it for an additional Rp250,000 or Au$34, knowledge she will pass = on to=20 others there and make them feel far more comfortable with technology = perhaps=20 for the rest of their lives.

  96. Printing: = business cards=20 (including. plastic), stickers, T-shirts. =91Keyhole Print Shop=92, Jl = Padma, app=20 60 metres on right from Jl Legian. Ask for Tarka.
    * Also = =91Indographs=92,=20 graphic and art offset printing of all types. Off Jl Legian near = a=20 leather shop called =91Merinos=92. http://www.indographs.com/ for = prices=20 and range.
    * Deka Grafika can do cards as well as stubby holders = and other=20 sorts of promotional material. deka_suradnya@yahoo.com. =
    * Harry=20 is a sign writer and also does T-shirts, stubby holders, stickers, = neon signs=20 etc. Warna Recklame, Jl Raya Kuta No81, Tuban. Ph 081 558 157=20 721.

  97. Printing. Bags with corporate logos = etc. Scale=20 Grafika in Padma Street behind OKA Cargo. See Agus.

  98. Cast metal=20 signs and letters in aluminium or brass (may be bronze). =
    Talent Art=20 Shop, Jl Legian Tengah No 420, KUTA. E-mail alloytalent@yahoo.com. There = are three=20 metal shops together.
    Also R2B on Jl Tangkuban Perahu No = 22.
    Also Golden=20 Buffalo on Sunset Road about No 12, next to Cosy.

  99. WEDDINGS. = Weddings are popular=20 in Bali and there are several companies specialising in arrangements. = One to=20 avoid is Silvies =91baliwedding.com=92. Do not confuse this company = with Bali=20 Weddings International, which is frequently recommended. 
    A=20 'Certificate of No Impediment' is required from the Australian=20 Consulate.
    Check the Bali Romantic Weddings web site at http://romantic-weddings.com/ = ,=20 E-mail info@romantic-weddings.com= =20 .
    Rama Shinta Weddings, Deden Kung and staff, has also been=20 recommended.
    There are good reports about Tamu Seseh, villas in the = rice=20 fields overlooking the ocean. ' - - 100 bamboo torches stretching away = in the=20 rice fields is unforgettable.' -  http://www.tamugroup.com/.=20
    Dominique's Bali Wedding = Photography is=20 a local firm that has had some recommendations but they're not super = cheap. www.weddingphotographybal= i.com/.=20
    Another is iva@pthaeinternational.com= =20

  100. GETTING = ABOUT. Taxis are very cheap, hiring a driver and vehicle = from anywhere=20 on the street is also very cheap. The traffic in Bali has to be seen = to be=20 believed. I can NOT recommend driving = yourself or=20 riding yourself but if you=92re determined or part of the invincible = youth then=20 hiring vehicles is quite easy if you have = an=20 international licence, A$15 plus passport photo from your local = automobile=20 association for 12 months. Only available for the classes you already = have=20 endorsed on your home licence.. You can also get a temporary Bali = licence in=20 about 20 min at a local Polisi station although this is rumoured to = change to=20 Kerobokan only some time in '05 and you'll need your genuine passport. = Cost=20 Rp200,000 for 3 months and valid anywhere in Indonesia. There is a = written=20 test in Bahasa Indonesia and for a small fee the police will 'assist' = you with=20 the test. Time taken is about 3 hours total. If you pass you get a = receipt on=20 the spot and the licence will be available next day. Excess of US$500 = for the=20 vehicle hire can be asked. Make sure you get insurance when you hire = and that=20 your traveller=92s insurance will also cover you. Try C V Jaya Mertha = II, Ph 756=20 204, US$925 for a Suzuki Katana Jimny for 10 days. Be sure of the time = for=20 vehicle return and anything else that is =91No worry Boss. She be = OK=92, and it is=20 until you try to deviate and then all hell breaks loose =96 and your = wallet with=20 it. Wary hirers always take photos of themselves and the four = sides of=20 the vehicle at the front of the shop before they drive off. Make sure = all=20 dents and scratches are visible. Kijangs cost about Rp100,000 for a = day, Jimny=20 about Rp80,000. Clean Diahatsu Feroza complete with dashboard offering = for=20 Rp230,000/day plus Rp350,000 excess. Car delivered and picked up from = hotel.=20 In '07 a 10 day hire worked out at about Rp150,000 a day including an=20 Insurance upgrade. Be aware that despite all the recommendations above = it is=20 not a LEGAL option for you to sign any sort of  document in = Indonesia. If=20 you prang or injure someone that hire agreement and the insurance = policy might=20 be invalid and you WILL be at fault regardless of the circumstances of = the=20 accident.
    Quote from the Bali Travel Forum -
    If you have not = been to=20 Bali before (and even if you have) I would strongly recommend against = driving=20 yourself.
    Traffic conditions and patterns are often described as = 'chaotic'=20 by first timers and, although they're not really if you are used to = them, they=20 are different.
    Think of the poor driver who has to negotiate the = apparent=20 mayhem! He or she will not see anything of the sights, nor will = whoever is=20 trying to navigate through the one-way streets, the short cuts and = maps that=20 can only be described as just slightly related to the actual position = and=20 names of roads.
    On top of this you might add insurance concerns = even if you=20 don't have a real accident. Others before you have lamented that they = had not=20 taken numerous photos of the hired vehicle (with the smiling salesman = in each=20 photo) before they even stepped into it to help prove on their return = that=20 those dents and scratches really were not their fault.
    Breakdown = scams are=20 numerous, police checks at which you will feel obliged to buy tickets = to the=20 Policeman's Ball (or else!), parking fees at tourist rates and fraud = at the=20 infrequent fuel pumps might be other worries.
    Compare this with the = cheapness and peace of mind of hiring a vehicle and driver on any = street in=20 the island almost. A driver and local guide all rolled into one. Hire = for an 8=20 hour day should cost you no more than Rp300,000. Convert that into = your home=20 currency and see the value.

  101. Sports shoes = are popular=20 buys in Bali but many are very poor quality and, unless you=92re = looking for a=20 cheap pair, caution is required. If you are in a position to compare = various=20 offerings try gripping the toe and heel and twist the sole. Better = shoes will=20 not twist very easily. Another test is to try pushing the heel (at the = finger=20 loop) in towards the sole at the instep. If it gives then the heel = support is=20 paper or cardboard rather the rigid plastic and the shoes are not = genuine ones=20 from a name brand =96 no matter what the words or symbols = show.
     Don=92t=20 believe that well-known names in the shoe retail business will only = sell the=20 genuine article either!
    Watch out for =91Rebok=92 brand and = 'Niike=92 or similar=20 mis-spelt names.
    Hand made to measure, leather shoes, are not as = popular in=20 the buying stakes but probably represent better value than sports=20 shoes. Guys can get shoes in common styles in black, brown, grey, = green=20 etc and for the ladies what better than a coloured leather coat or = pants with=20 an exactly matching pair of fashionable boots or shoes. Take a picture = of your=20 favourite style or rely on the leather shops=92 catalogues.
    There = is a shoe=20 warehouse in Legian. Coming from Kuta turn into Jl Padma and then = right into=20 Padma Utara; at the dog-leg where the Fairy shop is go left and you'll = find it=20 just a few shops along. Its actually almost at the back driveway of = the=20 Niksoma Hotel to the right. There are no signs ('05) but look into the = glass=20 doors. If you come to a handbag and scarf shop (also good) you've = passed=20 it.
    For large sizes in men's shoes try Joycelyn's Shoes on Jl = Melasti not=20 far from Bali Rock going towards Jl Legian.

  102. Musical=20 instruments are available on the top floor of the Supernova = Department=20 store on Jl Kuta. Guitars from the department stores and Tom's (below) = are=20 generally the cheaper brands. King Audio (below) has better quality=20 instruments. Have a look at the Marlique website;=20 www.marliqueguitars.com/english/englishhome.html.
    * Also at Tom's = Music=20 & Sports Hyperstore on Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass 88X, Kuta. Ph = (+62-361) 766=20 788 - e-mail tommusic@indosat.net.id - = 5 string=20 Ibanex Bass Rp 2.2 million, about a quarter of the Aussie price for = same=20 instrument.
    * Also on the top floor of Hardys Grosir Supermarket = on the=20 main street of Sanur,
    * Gramedia shops,
    * Matahari's in = Denpasar, down=20 the escalator and turn left. Guitars - Cort, Washburn, Epiphones etc = from=20 Rp700,000 to 5 million.
    * Guitars in Bali are easy to find and a = great=20 range of qualities and prices. Almost all department stores have = instrument=20 sections. Also Tom's, Sound Quality, King Audio. Know your instruments = and=20 home prices and you'll find a bargain.
    * "- - in 2005 we bought an = acoustic=20 guitar for A$90, and electric bass for A$110, an electric Ibanez RGX = with 5=20 strings, strap. 6M lead and hard case for A$285."
    * Epiphone Les = Paul=20 model. A$240, Centro, '06.
    * Also in the shop opposite Mataharis in = Denpasar.
    * Upstairs in Matahari, Kuta.
    * In Centro, the new = Discovery=20 Mall (in a hardware shop would you believe?) and the Kuta Galleria. A=20 remarkable range from Jew's Harps to 3/4 violins at approx Aus$80 with = velvet=20 lined, hard case. Appraised in Australia as 'good value'. Guitars=20 Aus$250.  Try before you buy here.
    * The Sound Quality store = on Jl=20 Imam Bonjol at N0338B in Denpasar is also worth checking. Ph. 0361 484 = 904.=20 Ask for Lalut.
    * Ibanez RGX. C/WFN twin humbucks, single coil = pickup,=20 locking bridge, hard case, 5 packs strings, gold end leads strap and = 100 picks=20 - Aus$280. ('07).
    * Kings Audio Jl Bedugul 51, Denpasar. E-mail kings@dps.centrin.net.id.*=20 Ramayana Denpasar, ground floor. Good selection.
    * Yamaha Music = Indonesia=20 has a store in Denpasar. Check the yellow phone book at your hotel = reception=20 for the address.
    * Bali Bedcovers and Guitars does not sound like a = place=20 where you might meet Paco Pena or some other great musician but you'll = be=20 surprised at the range of good guitars at great prices. Poppies Lane I = near=20 the Legian end and Poppies Restaurant. Good service from knowledgeable = staff.=20 Yamaha pack in Oz at $289 was $143 here.

  103. In '07 a warning was = posted about surf boards sold under the PC brand. Palu got = better=20 reviews - www.baliblog.com/news/archives/002960.shtml.

  104. BARGAINING. An American=20 tourist offers these hard-nosed suggestions about getting the best = possible=20 value for your money when bargaining in Bali.
    FINDING OUT WHAT = THINGS=20 REALLY COST =96 or =91The Impossible Dream.=92
    Most important; = you've got to be=20 willing to walk away. You'll never get the lowest price standing in = one spot=20 and discussing it. Nine times out of ten, the seller=92s price will = drop closer=20 to your last offer if you walk away.
    Method 1: Try and try again. =
    Pick=20 something that is common throughout markets and set yourself a very = low target=20 price. Try to bargain for it. Fail? Raise your price a little and try=20 somewhere else. Do it again, until someone agrees. It's good practice, = but=20 remember that if the seller accepts your offer convention dictates = that you=20 must buy at that price.
    Method 2: Eavesdrop on other tourists. =
    Listen=20 to them bargain, and find out what they paid. Often, the shopkeeper = will sell=20 you the same thing for the same price but try to go a bit lower. This = really=20 works best with two friends; it=92s less effective but still possible = with two=20 strangers.
    Method 3: Go on a day tour, and observe the hawkers at = all the=20 stops made on the tour.
    You will find that these tour sellers are = among=20 the hardest on all of Bali (except perhaps those at Kintamani). Here's = where=20 you'll get the "Ten thousand! Ten thousand!" sarong price offers right = off the=20 bat. What they shout at you as you walk away, or the prices they quote = while=20 they're wedging their shoulder into your car door and preventing you = from=20 closing your door are often the lowest prices that the item can be had = for=20 anywhere.
    Method 4: Go to a fixed price store (like Matahari in = Kuta) and=20 have a look around. Set your target for similar goods in the markets = at 30-50%=20 off of those prices. This is a way of at least getting within the = ballpark=20 range of a "real" price, especially if you have no idea whether = something=20 should cost Rp10,000 or 100,000.
    Some things the vendor will = nearly always=20 do to unsettle you:
    1) - Laugh outrageously at your starting price =
    2)=20 - Invoke peer pressure, either by telling other shopkeepers what = you've=20 offered and having them laugh, or saying "but your friend paid . . ." =
    3) -=20 Say "Ten thousand? No, this quality (picks up other object) ten = thousand.=94=20 They'll always drag in other cheaper examples of what you're trying to = buy, to=20 try to make your intended purchase look like the higher quality = version and=20 worthy of the price they want.
    4) - Never drop close to their = lowest price=20 until you start to walk away. When come back you can haggle some more = from a=20 new starting point.
    Things you should always do:
    1) - have a = good idea=20 of what an item should cost if it's a common item or  - or = what=20 you're willing to pay if it's a harder-to-find item.
    2) - Calculate = a goal=20 somewhere between 20 and 50% of the shopkeeper's starting price (if = you have=20 no idea what it costs).
    3) - Start BELOW that price and come up = only in=20 small increments (like 5000, or even 1000 at a time, depending on the=20 price).
    4) - Allow yourself four or five rounds of = negotiation.
    5) -=20 Say, "Ah, no thank you, too expensive.=94 Then WALK AWAY. If they're = willing to=20 keep going, they'll say "OK OK" and wave you back. Then they'll drop a = little=20 more, but not necessarily yet to the price you want. It can still go = several=20 rounds after walking away.
    Things that are handy:
    1) - Having = exact=20 change. If you're tired of the transaction and you know you're = offering a fair=20 price, you can take out your money and say "This is all I have" or = "Here, yes,=20 30,000" to speed the deal.
    2) Keep a couple extra thousand on = hand, to=20 sweeten the deal if necessary. Do not show these to the vendor, or = they'll try=20 to incorporate them in the final price.
    Things you should not = do:
    1) -=20 Get angry or shout. It's just business, and the Balinese like to = conduct it in=20 a friendly, easygoing, "You funny! What a JOKE your price is!" sort of = way.
    2) - Say how much you paid for something. It will give away = your=20 knowledge of prices and what you're willing to pay.
    3) =96 Refuse = to buy (or=20 continue to try to bargain lower) when your last offer has been=20 accepted.
    Finally, keep the value of the money involved in some = sort of=20 perspective. If you find yourself refusing a deal because of a = difference of a=20 few hundred rupiah then stop and work out just how insignificant such = a sum=20 really is to you. Then stop and think of how valuable this sum is to = the=20 seller.

  105. There are a number of fixed price=20 shops appearing in Bali. You frequently have to ask for the fixed = price=20 after which it is very rude if you try to bargain.
    All of the = supermarkets=20 and restaurants are fixed price of course but others include;
    * = Jenny's=20 Shop on Jl Kartika Plaza at the front of the Green Garden in = Tuban.
    *=20 Dianne's is the shop next to Jenny's and also fixed price.
    * = Patrick's=20 Shop in the Legian Art Markets, Block C, No 26, Jl Melasti, Legian = Kelod.
    *=20 Tootsies, perhaps the first and certainly a Forum favourite in the = Sindhu=20 Beach Markets, Sanur.
    * Jenny's, next to Tootsies and no doubt = responding=20 to the pressure.
    * Also in Sanur is Noma's Shop No 31A in the = Sindhu Beach=20 Markets. If she hasn't got the size or colour you want she'll try to = get it=20 for you.
    * Ketuts, shop 14, Gang Sorga Lines, off Jl Sahadewa in=20 Legian.
    * Willie's shop in the area of the Legian Markets facing = Sahadewa=20 street, No 39.
    * Yanthi Clothing  owned by Wayan in Jl = Sahadewa near=20 the Melasti end. Sells Billabong and Quicksilver from her house at the = rear of=20 the shop. Shirts Rp90K, T's and shorts Rp40K.
    * Nyoman's Camphuan = shop at=20 the bottom of the hill in Jl Raya near the Camphuan Bridge in Ubud. = Ask for=20 Made.
    * There is also a Nyoman's at shop 111 in the Kuta Art = Markets. Also=20 shop 39.
    * Ketut's in Poppies Lane I.
    * In Poppies II there is = an 'L'=20 shaped group of shops just through the S bend if you're heading = towards the=20 beach. Wayan, right on the corner is a nice lady and will give you = fixed=20 prices if you ask.
    * Golden Buffalo for silver and bronze statues, = buddas,=20 heads, candle holders, frames etc, etc. Sunset Road Legian next to = Cosy with=20 the sign on tall legs.
    * Geneva Homewares and furniture in = Kerobokan on the=20 main road.
    * Pipit Shop opposite the Legian Art Markets, Shop 17 = (or=20 117?)  Blok C. Perhaps the cheapest of all in '05. Turn right out = of Jl=20 Sahadewa, towards the beach and Pipits is on the left.
    * Miss = Debbie in=20 Legian on the right of Garlic Lane (Jl Sahadewa) going towards Melasti = St. Ask=20 for Billabong and you will be taken into the house to see the = collection. Some=20 shoppers say she is a bit rude. Maybe they asked for fixed price and = then=20 still tried to bargain?
    * There is also a Black and White Sports = Store on=20 Jl Kartika Plaza about 3 doors from the Bali Rani.
    * Shop 39 in the = Kuta=20 Art Markets.
    * In Ubud try the River Valley shop in Monkey Forest = Road=20 opposite Uluwatu Lace. Different fashions at cheaper prices then Kuta=20 etc.
    * In Seminyak go to Jacques Ruc on Raya Seminyak at No 54-56. = Designer=20 shop with a different array of mix-n-match for both larger and smaller = figures. Go past Bintang Supermarket towards Seminyak central or = Kerobokan and=20 its on your right.

2.    MONEY  

Most of=20 this information is regularly updated on a separate page so that it will = upload=20 more quickly when you want to check something or print it out to take = with you.=20 This link, 'MONEY',= will=20 take you straight there and you just hit the 'Back'; button to return=20 here.

There is also a Shoppers = Cheat Sheet=20 that you can print off to take with you at this link - 'Cheat = Sheet'.

If you want to do accurate = conversions=20 via your pocket calculator follow these steps -
    - = divide 1=20 by the exchange rate for the day (remember this might change a couple of = times a=20 day.)
    - enter the result into the calculators=20 memory.
    - enter the price of anything and multiply = it by=20 'memory' (or the number you got when you divided = above.)
   =20 This will give the correct result in any currency you initially entered = as the=20 exchange=20 rate.
          &nbs= p; For=20 example: Exchange rate is 7800 rupiah to 1=20 dollar
          &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;        =20 1 divided by 7800 =3D=20 0.0001282
          =             &= nbsp;        =20 0.0001282 multiplied by Rp200.000 =3D $25.64.

Carry your=20 money in a =91bum bag=92 but keep it under your shirt if it contains a = lot. Exposed=20 bum bag straps can be easily cut and the offender away on the pillion of = a=20 passing motorbike before you can blink. (Before you condemn the Balinese = for=20 this sort of criminal activity just ask yourself if it could or = couldn=92t happen=20 in your home town.) If you have large amounts keep it in several = different=20 places. I use a skin coloured cloth money pouch which hangs around my = neck under=20 the shirt as a less obvious and more secure device. Its been useful when = I've=20 been invited into that little back room at Customs and I can show an = empty=20 wallet except for travellers=20 cheques.

'Don't put all your eggs in = one basket'=20 my old grandmother used to say - to no one in particular but to anyone = who'd=20 listen. In money terms it means don't just take cash or just plastic = cards or=20 just Travellers Cheques. Have a bit of everything then if your cash gets = pinched=20 you still have the credit cards and if there is a power failure and the = ATM's=20 don't work you can fall back on your TC's which will be replaced in 24 = hours if=20 they get stolen. 'Nope! Won't happen to me' I can hear some of you say, = to which=20 I can only say I hope you won't be sorry and I hope you won't get mad = when I=20 say, "I told you so!' Check this=20 post on http://www.balitra= velforum.com/msg/12829.html=20 to see what can happen in real life.

"Posted by=20 ####### on Saturday, 3. January 2009 at 09:34 Bali Time: =

I'm not=20 the type of person to run anyone or anything down but I believe those of = you=20 intending to stay at the ######## ###### ### should be aware of what = happened to=20 us & think twice before doing so.

On a=20 positive note the rooms where good for the price but the beds are = extremely=20 hard, the showers, aircon, pool etc all good.

The=20 negative & most disappointing side is the room safes & that = there is a=20 THIEF among their staff, also that the Australian owner could not have = cared=20 less.

We arrived=20 on the 23rd December & between the night of the 23rd & xmas = night my=20 friend was ROBBED $3,300 AUD, which consisted of his & his 14 year = old=20 daughters money."

That bit about eggs in the = basket also=20 applies to your money in Bali. Don't carry it all onto the street at any = one=20 time. Leave some in your hotel safe and what you do carry with you split = up=20 between a bum bag, a purse and a pocket or wherever.
 

  1. The=20 local money is the Indonesian = rupiah =96=20 (Rp.).
    * Coins are Rp1,000 =96 500 =96 100 =96 50 and = 25. Supermarkets=20 use lollies (candy) as small change for less than = 25=20 rupiah.
    * Notes are Rp100,000 (Ask for these when changing = money as=20 they=92re easy to count for you and not easy for the tricky money = changers to=20 mis-count.) - 50,000 =96 20,000 =96 10,000 =96 5,000 (About A$1.00 / = US$0.50.) =96=20 1,000 =96 500 =96 100.
    * Take care that you don=92t get Rp10,000 = notes passed to=20 you in the middle of a stack of Rp100,000 notes, or 5,000s in a stack = of=20 50,000s and so on.
    * THE SAFEST = MONEY=20 CHANGERS ARE AT THE WARTELS (Government telephoning shops) WHICH = OFTEN=20 HAVE AUTHORISED MONEY CHANGING OFFICES ALSO. The changers will be = PT Bali=20 Valas or PT Bali Masprint or something similar. Their rates are the = same as PT=20 Central. Most importantly they will change Travellers Cheques with a = photo=20 copy of your passport ID page. I DO NOT RECOMMEND =91PT CENTRAL=92 = AGENCIES IN THE=20 KODAK SHOPS (or in the larger Department stores) AS THEY NOW REQUIRE = YOUR=20 ORIGINAL PASSPORT TO CHANGE TRAVELLERS CHEQUES. I will not take my = passport=20 out of the hotel safe until I=92m ready to go home =96 then I know I = can get home=20 without days of hassle. If your passport is stolen on the streets your = holiday=20 will be ruined and it will take days to get it replaced. Many = travellers are=20 now ('07) re-evaluating their trust in the Kodak shop money changers. = Of=20 concern in one instance was the Kodak shop almost opposite the Kin = Khao=20 restaurant on Jl Kartika in Tuban. We once happily used this shop for = years=20 before finding the wartels and true authorised money changers.
    * = Take care=20 also if you=92re tempted to do business with any moneychanger who is = offering a=20 better than usual exchange rate. The only way he will make up the = difference=20 between the official rate (at which they all buy their money) and the = higher=20 rate that he is offering is to cheat you. Credit card scams abound = including a=20 new one reported in '05 which uses the information gleaned by the = older card=20 machines used in Bali. This information includes the full number and = expiry=20 date. In the finance office of any company that handles your card = transactions=20 an employee can copy all the needed details and a new card with a new = photo=20 and signature even, can be made in a few hours and put to use anywhere = in the=20 world.
    If there is a LEGITIMATE Security Guard in the shop it may = be better=20 than some of the others.
    Check the 'MONEY' link above (in blue = type) for=20 more information on the money risks that abound in Bali.     =

  2. If you=20 would like to see pictures of the Rupiah notes (face and reverse = sides) go to=20 www.balimic.tripod.= com/bali/id16.html=20 . You=92ll find a lot of other good info there too, especially clear = photos of=20 many popular hotels in Bali.

  3. Don=92t purchase rupiah at you local home = bank, as=20 your exchange rate will be terrible. Wait until you get to Bali. If = you intend=20 to take cash then take your own currency. You can change virtually any = currency to rupiah in Bali. If in doubt simply post the question on = the Bali=20 Travel Forum, http://www.balitravelforum.com/<= /A>. =20 Changing it into something else only loses a bit each time. You = can=20 change just about any world currency into rupiahs in Bali. =

  4. Money exchange is both an art and a con in = Bali. You=20 can exchange virtually any world currency via cash (large = denomination, new=20 notes are best =96 marked or damaged notes may be rejected. = Never use=20 a strange ATM when you're just a little bit drunk. A friend says = either be=20 sober or so drunk you've got no idea how to start it so you can't muck = it up.=20 It's actually good advice. Have a look at the 'MONEY' section below. = (Check=20 the index at the beginning of these pages.)

  5. Since the introduction of = the Visa-On-Arrival requirement the banks now = handle=20 foreign exchange rates at the airport visa counter and its a good = place to get=20 a bit of change for those urgent purchases like a bottle of water. An = Aus$50=20 note gets you into the country and enough for a taxi and a drink or = clean=20 teeth.

  6. Don=92t=20 take your passport onto the street to = change=20 Travellers Cheques. Use a photocopy of the first (identification) page = for=20 this. If you find an occasional moneychanger who won=92t accept your = photocopy=20 then leave and go to the next one who won=92t be far away. Make at = least one=20 copy for each week that you will be in Bali as paper deteriorates = rapidly in=20 the humidity.

  7. Beware=20 of bag snatchers on motorbike pillions. = Carry your=20 bag on the side away from the roadway. Don=92t carry a lot of money in = your bag,=20 and never your passport. Use a body belt or chest bag strung around = your neck.=20 Don=92t leave your bags in a vehicle unless you are very sure that the = driver is=20 reliable and that the vehicle can be securely locked =96 not just = locked. To=20 have your bags stolen with all of your documentation in them must be a = traveller=92s greatest nightmare, and it happens not only in Bali but = in Sydney=20 and London and New York and - - - - .

  8. Some =91wartels=92 (post and phone shops) are also bank = agencies. As=20 such they are also reliable money changers and recommended for = changing=20 travellers cheques because they accept photo copies of your passport = which=20 means the real one is back in the safe at your hotel. There are many = Wartels=20 in districts all over Bali. Generally open at 6 am to service = the=20 locals.
    Pt. Bali Maspintjinra are the ones we     always try to = use.=20 Never had a problem here.
    They are at 16 Raya Seminyak; =
    Jl=20 Legian Tengah No438B;
    Jl Sriwijaya No2, Kuta;
    Jl = Danu=20 Tamblingan No18, Sanur, about 60 paces south of the Sindhu = Beach=20 markets. How handy is that?
    and also in Lombok on Raya = Sengiggi,=20 Km13.

  9. There=20 are honest street changers I am told, who offer slightly higher rates, = but=20 beware and be warned =96 many, if not most, will not only try to cheat = you but=20 will succeed! Even career bank tellers report that they have been done = over!=20 These street moneychangers are the experts in all of the tricks ever = dreamed=20 up anywhere in the world, including re-wired calculators and super = slippery=20 fingers. You are just the most recent in a very long line of suckers. = Dodgy=20 money changing is their life and you are their lifeblood. Always count = your=20 money without being distracted by an accomplice at your shoulder and = always be=20 the last to touch the money. If someone else picks it up, even if only = to hand=20 it to you, then sit down and count it again! Chances are you will be = amazed. A=20 neat reversal of this con is to give you the right amount but when you = hand=20 over your 4 x $50 bills (which you=92ve been smart enough to hang on = to tightly=20 until this time) he will find that you=92re one short and you=92ve = only given him=20 three. The other one has been dropped on the floor at his feet or into = his=20 open money drawer which he smoothly closes with his thighs as he = stands=20 up.

  10. KNOWN=20 CROOK MONEY CHANGERS.  Immediately suspect any = street=20 changer who offers a better exchange rate than the really authorised = changers=20 such as the local Wartel (the government telephoning shops), PT = Central,=20 generally found in supermarkets and Kodak shops. Be aware that these = slick=20 merchants will move from location to location on a regular basis as = their=20 dishonesty becomes known locally. Some good money changers might be = mentioned=20 in the District sections that follow several pages down.
    * Beware = of the=20 moneychangers in Rose Tailor, opposite the Bali Aussie. A well = documented=20 rip-off centre. All of the tricks in the book will be tried and if you = pick=20 them all the supply of money will be =91all gone=92 and you=92ll be = intimidated and=20 shown the door. If you manage to change some money you=92ll know = you=92ve been=20 cheated but you wont know how.
    * Avoid the moneychangers at =96 Jl = Dhyana=20 near Bestest Caf=E9 and the one across the street in a post office = type shop=20 also. Stick with the Kodak guys further towards the beach.
    * Also = avoid the=20 moneychangers near the Aston Bali Hotel. Great dropper of money into = his lap,=20 claims it is =91commission=92 if caught even though his sign clearly = claims =91No=20 Commis.=92.
    * On Legian Street, in the alley between Mammas German = Restaurant=20 and the Fuji Film shop. A first class note shuffler.
    * Opposite the = Restu=20 in Legian. Small notes (Rp5,000) in the middle of a stack of = Rp50,000=92s.
    *=20 Not quite a crook moneychanger but in the Bintang store in Legian do = your own=20 adding up to arrive at your total bill and calculate and check your = change=20 carefully unless you can afford to lose $10 in a 100. I don't believe = that=20 this is a policy of the store but rather the pressing needs of one of = the=20 check-out girls from time to time. We use Bintang regularly and (as = far as we=20 know) have never been short changed.
    * The changer next to = Billy=92s Bar on=20 Jl Sahadewa is =91a scumbag=92.
    * In Legian avoid the moneychanger = opposite the=20 Puri Raja in Jl Padma Utara. He is in the centre one of three small = shops,=20 right in the back.
    * Also = in Legian=20 avoid the one on the corner of Sahadewa and Padma in a music shop. = There is a=20 safe Kodak nearby.
    * Kids Zone (a children=92s clothing shop near = Timezone=20 and Matahari's) in Legian and also a changer just opposite Kids Zone = in Jl=20 Legian.
    * A deadly variation on the game of chance is played by a=20 moneychanger on Legian street opposite the end of Poppies Lane I. He = will try=20 to cheat you in the usual way and if you catch him he will, = begrudgingly, give=20 you back your $100 (or whatever) bills. You will stomp out in high = dudgeon,=20 not realising that he has NOT given you back YOUR notes, but has given = you at=20 least one quite good forgery. If you go back to complain later he will = argue=20 that you must have got them somewhere else =96 and how con you = convincingly=20 argue otherwise?
    * On Melasti Street near Top Ten and Leong DVD is = a unique=20 cheat who actually keeps a written record of how much he=92s cheated = you. If you=20 get done for Rp300,000 and try to say it was Rp500,000 he will pull = out his=20 book and correct you. He will also cheat you again when he gives you = the=20 refund!!
    * On the corner of Poppies 2 and Jl Legian, at the back of = a photo=20 printing shop.
    * On Jl = Melasti about=20 30 paces from Jl Legian on the corner of a narrow lane there is an=20 advertisement for =91no commis=92 and very good rates. If something = appears too=20 good to be true you can bet that it=92s not =96 and particularly if = you choose to=20 dice with this money changer you=92ll learn that the hard way. =
    * Near=20 the Kumala Pantai there is a Mini Mart with perhaps the worst money = changer in=20 all of Bali. Not only totally dishonest but aggressive too.
    * Not = too far=20 from the scoundrel above there is relief opposite the Bali Aussie in = Melasti=20 street.
    * Opposite Made's Warung and down a corridor opposite a = luggage=20 shop. 'Short-changed Rp650,000 and we had no idea until much = later'!
    * On=20 Jl Padma Utara, only a few doors from a safe Kodak shop, near Posers = Bar.=20 These guys will trick you the first time and when you go and demand = your money=20 back they will trick you again! All in hope of a 50Rp better rate = (less than a=20 cent)!
    * Do not use the changer at the Kamala Mini Mart by the = Kumala=20 Pantai Hotel. You might think that the low rate offered indicates an = honest=20 changer but this is certainly not so. The Mini Mart itself is not to = be=20 trusted either. Prices change from the shelves to the checkout and = extra items=20 can be added to your bill. The owner becomes VERY aggressive when=20 challenged.
    * The changer on the beach at the back of the Jayakarta = is well=20 known. 'and if you buy a drink and a bag of chips you need to check = the prices=20 charged' and make sure you still have your underwear when you = leave.
    * The=20 Kumala Mini Mart (On the beach side between the Kumala Pantai Hotel = and the=20 Blue Ocean restaurant.) will surely do you over big time as he has = done for=20 many years judging by the bad reports. You are at risk of bad change = if you=20 buy anything there. Use the Circle K instead. Not cheap but at least = honest=20 with money.
    * In Sanur one traveller claims that they were ripped = off at=20 the Wartel but I find it hard to believe.
    * In Tanjung Benoa beware = of the=20 money changer who is NEXT to a Kodak shop (What a coincidence!)  = on the=20 main road, Jl Pratama. His street-side board has 'Kantor Cabang' = across he=20 top.

  11. In Nusa Dua avoid the = small money=20 changer in a small arcade of shopos opposite the Grabd Mirage = Hotel.=20

  12. GOOD=20 MONEY CHANGERS, besides the government run Wartels which we highly = recommend, the department stores and the Kodak shops are noted in the = various=20 'SHOPPING' sections of the District notes. In '05 and '06 there were = some=20 concerns expressed about 'errors' made in some Kodak shops. Perhaps = this=20 happened as a result of the very difficult circumstances all of Bali = was in=20 following the bombings, so even here it pays to check your cash = carefully. In=20 addition to those mentioned in the District Sections there are some = listed=20 here that have been tried and recommended.
    Seminyak; = -PT.=20 Bali Maspintjinra at Jl Raya Seminyak No16A, Kuta. Ph (0361) 733 = 618.
    *=20     In Jl Werkudara not far in from Jl Seminyak opposite the tall = brick wall=20 around the local school, is PT Bali Saudara Valas. Small shop with air = con.
    Kuta     - At the beach end of Poppies I in 'The = phone=20 booth' about 20 metres from he beach road you'll find the reliable = Ketut.=20
    * Also across Legian St at the end of Poppies I about 2 doors from = Bemo=20 corner.
    * Diagonally across Bemo corner   and a = bit to=20 your left as you cross there is a Wartel (a Government telephoning = office)=20 that is also a money changer. These changers are computer linked to = the=20 official exchange rate, are absolutely honest and will change your = Travellers=20 Cheques using only a photocopy of the first page of your Passport - = which of=20 course means that you can leave the real thing locked in the safe at = your=20 hotel.
    Legian     - Opposite the La Mond Restaurant, Jl = Padma=20 Utara, in a shop with glass doors. ATM next to it. -
    * PT. Artha = Giri=20 Kencana, Jl Legian Tengah No420. Ph 754 083.
    * PT. Bali = Maspintjinra at Jl=20 Legian Tengah No438B. Ph(0361) 767 260.
    * Pt Balidavalas at the = Kodak shop=20 on the corner of Jl Legian and Poppies II. Big notes; no=20 'magic'.
    * They are also at Kuta; Jl Srwijaya (Pureh Puseh) = No2. Ph=20 (0361) 756 968.
    * In Jl Sahadewa, Legian, there is an honest = changer near=20 Dolphin Leather and Dolphin Restaurant. Nice young lady working there, = good=20 rates and transparent honesty.
    * Opposite the Bali Aussie in = Melasti=20 street. Small shop but reliable.
    * Opposite the Jayakarta is Rum = Jungle=20 Road (Jl Pura Bagus Teruna) where there a a lot of quality eateries = including=20 Yutz' and the Flying Piano. Opposite the Olde Fookin Pub (I'm told the = food is=20 better than the name) is a bank with an ATM inside and a security = guard. Good=20 for Rp3 million at a time.  ### See '3 million ATM's'=20 below.
    Kerobokan - Opposite the Legian Hotel in a = small shop=20 with a tour desk. There is an exchange rate board out the front. -=20     A=20 reliable moneychanger in the northern districts is at the front office = of the=20 Bali Mystique on Jl Petititenget in Kerobokan.
    Sanur = - Three=20 shops down from the Swastika Hotel. He does not charge commission or = tax and=20 never touches the money after he has counted it out for = you.
    PT. Bali Maspintjinra at Jl Danau Tamblingan = No18 Sanur.=20 Ph (0361) 281 229.
    Next to the entrance to the Puri Santrian on Jl = Kalianget. Set back from the road a bit on the seaward side at a=20 restaurant/bar. Better rate than Kodak and usually has Rp100,000 bills = which=20 are easier to check for your peace of mind.
    Opposite the La Travena = Hotel=20 is a local Wartel (Government telephone shop) which changes money. = Receipts=20 issued. Uniformed and armed security in attendance.
    Straight across = the=20 road from the Paradise Plaza between a restaurant (good food) and a = small shop=20 (where you can get laundry done) there is a charming lady who will = change your=20 money without a worry on your part.
    Just around the corner from the = BNI=20 Bank on the left after about 100 paces towards the Sindhu Beach=20 markets.
    Ubud - Jineng Tourist Service, Hanoman = Street 22X,=20 Ph (62 361) 976 488.
    The Ubud Music shop in the main street = opposite Cafe=20 Lotus and one at the top end of Monkey Forest Road are = reliable.
    Avoid one=20 just a few doors up from the Ubud Village hotel and avoid the internet = shop=20 here also' ('05).
    Candi Dasa - CNI Gogo Silver &=20 Authorised Money Changer, Jl Raya Candi Dasa-Amlapura, Ph (0363) 41=20 081.
    Lovina - P T Central, Lovina, Nick Money = Changer, Open=20 Stage, Jl Singaraja-Seririt (Lovina). Ph (0362) 41 966. There is a = book shop=20 next door which might make it easier to spot.

  13. 3 million rupia ATM's. = Most ATM's in=20 Bali will give you 1.5 million rupia in Rp50,000 notes at each = transaction,=20 for which your bank will debit your account about $4. Some machines = will=20 dispense 2.5 million in Rp100,000 notes (these machines usually have a = 'Rp100,000' sticker on them). a few machines will dispense 3 million = and you=20 will still only be debited $4 by your bank. This makes them better = valkue of=20 course. The 3 million machines that I know of are at:-

    ** Tuban about opposite = the Bali=20 Garden Hotel, near Waterbom Park. There are 4 or 5 machines in a row = right on=20 the edge of the footpath and the 3mill machine is the one on your far = right -=20 at the end nearest the airport.

    ** On Pantai Kuta at the = Hard Rock=20 corner. Walk towards Matahari from the Hard Rock and there are 2 = machines on=20 your left just before you get to the pool entrance. Use the first, = often with=20 a Security Guard outside.

    ** Look also for the = Circle K store on=20 Jl Legian a bit south of Jl Benasari.

    ** Outside the Bintang = Supermarket on=20 Jl Legian.** On Rum Jungle Road (Jl Werkudara) in the Permata Bank = near the Jl=20 Legian end.

    ** Also the Permata ATM on = Jl Legian=20 just walk a bit towards Kuta from the Bintang.

  14. If you=20 use plastic Credit Cards for purchases do = not let it=20 out of your sight or you risk having it swiped a second time onto an = open=20 account slip, and also take or personally destroy the carbon copy of = the=20 impression or watch it done in front of you. Do not trust it being = tossed into=20 the waste paper basket. Fearful stories abound in S E Asia of credit = card=20 scams, sometimes done from the impression on the carbon = slip. Even the=20 biggest supermarkets, hotels and a bank have been implicated in the=20 scam.

  15. Watch=20 out for risky ATM=92s which hold onto = your card until=20 the very last minute and then require a key entry to release it. It is = very=20 easy to forget it while you=92re counting your money and leave the = card in the=20 machine for the next customer to use because your PIN is logged into = the=20 machine and does not have to be re-entered.

  16. A recent ATM risk is = 'skimming'. A=20 device (or devices) read your card and a hidden camera records your = PIN=20 key-strokes. Have a look at the pictures here - http://www.utexas.= edu/police/alerts/atm_scam/.=20

  17. Some=20 stores add a surcharge when items are paid for with credit cards.=20

  18. If you=20 are heading north (or east or west) be aware that the best exchange = rates are=20 offered in the southern tourist areas and get worse as you go out, = even only=20 as far as Ubud but certainly Bedugul and beyond.

  19. Keep=20 Rp150,000 in local money for your departure=20 tax to be paid at the airport. A good suggestion is to put your = first=20 Rp100,000 note and your first Rp50,000 note in your passport as soon = as you=20 get it and then forget its there until you need it at the airport. = Children=20 occupying a seat are required to pay. This raises around Rp 400 = billion each=20 year =96 all of which goes to the Indonesian Government in Java =96 = none at all=20 for Bali improvements.
    Make sure you don=92t loose the white = immigration slip=20 you get when you arrive. Keep it with your passport (and that first = Rp150,000=20 mentioned above) and keep that in your hotel safe at all times. =
    You don=92t=20 need to take your passport onto the street for anything, including = changing=20 traveller=92s cheques. That you can do with a photocopy of the first = ID page at=20 any Wartel money changer.
    Also don=92t forget to confirm your = departure with=20 the airline as required, and get to the airport with a couple of hours = to=20 spare to ensure you get your baggage checked in and seat allocation = completed=20 in time. If you=92re flying Garuda you can do your check-in and get = your=20 boarding pass (thus ensuring that you don=92t get =91bumped off=92 the = flight=20 because of over-bookings) by going to their offices the day before = your=20 flight. They can be found in Denpasar and at the Hotel Sanur Beach or = the Kuta=20 Paradiso. Also, if you do this =91City Check In=92 you wont be = required at the=20 airport until an hour before your flight.      The Garuda = Business=20 class is not what it used to be ('06). Although the seats are larger = and leg=20 room longer the service is much the same as Economy and the luxury = food and=20 drink of before have now gone.

  20. Tie your purse = onto your=20 bum bag with a piece of fishing line. That way you=92ll never leave it = on the=20 shop counter or in a taxi. Just coil the line up when you want to put = it all=20 back again. If you have trouble tying fishing line use a length of = that=20 brightly coloured brickies cord that=92s a few cents for a big reel at = your=20 hardware store

  21. When=20 bargaining for goods keep a balanced perspective on=20 what you are bargaining over. An extra Rp1,000 or Rp 5,000 is really = just=20 small change in your home currency. Don=92t risk high blood pressure = to beat the=20 last cent or pfennig out of someone who is just trying to make a = living after=20 all. Late in =9202 a kilo of rice cost about Rp3,000 (mid '05 - = Rp4250). This=20 would be enough to feed an extended family for a day =96 that is about = 60 cents=20 Oz or 30 cents US. You wont miss this much but it is enough to keep = them=20 alive. Please think about it!
    A Shoppers Aid or bargaining Cheat Sheet covering many currency exchange = rates is=20 available at http://www.filosbali.net/. Look = for=20 'Cheat Sheets' in the left side column. They are in either MS Word or = MS Excel=20 formats.

  22. TIPPING. Balinese do not generally expect tips but = generosity=20 is appreciated. It is sometimes difficult to tip an individual person = in a=20 restaurant as a tip included in the bill often simply goes into the = open-ended=20 bucket along with the =93Service Charge=94 that you=92ll find added on = almost=20 everywhere. If you want to single out and show appreciation to a = particular=20 waiter then ask them to come back after the bill has been quite = finalised,=20 then use their body as a shield from the peering eyes of the boss, = give them=20 something, =91For you=92. It is a frequent occurrence that the = person who=20 brings the bill is not the person who actually served you but the boss = who is=20 hoping you will not be alert and will give him the tip. On the other = hand it=92s=20 very easy to round up the fare to the next 1000 or 5000 rupiah and = thereby=20 give a taxi driver a reward for his (otherwise very cheap)=20 services.
    Monetary donations to families are usually spent on = general=20 family priorities rather than something that might be special to the=20 individual you wished to reward.
    Women will inevitably spend extra = money=20 or their families rather than on themselves, which is why some = practical gifts=20 of appreciation, or 'oleh olehs' (gifts), become very personal and are = appreciated so much.
    A well known ex-pat who admits to being = generous but=20 claims to be rewarded for it, recommends as follows =96 food and = drink, 15% of=20 pre tax bill; cabs =96 10%; hotel staff Rp15,000; other services 10% = if you=92re=20 happy with the service.

  23. If you=20 have friends in Bali and you would = like to=20 provide some financial help to them between visits, but still be in = control,=20 set up a low fee or free account with your bank or credit union with = an ATM=20 Cashcard (not a Credit Card). Give your friends in Bali the card and = the PIN=20 number. About half an hour after you deposit cash in the account at = home it=20 will be available to your friends with the card and PIN number in Bali = for=20 only about Rp5,000 fee per withdrawal.

  24. DON'T=20 SEND MONEY THROUGH THE POST! It will almost certainly be = =91lost=92.=20

3.    REMEMBER =96 Cultural things.

  1. Balinese names.=20 There are 4 castes within Balinese society. The = most common=20 of these by far, and therefore the group of people that the tourist = will=20 interact with most often, is the Sundra caste. Note that these people = are=20 basically not priests, nobles, warriors nor court servants who make up = the=20 other 3 castes: they are not =91untouchable=92 as can be found in = other cultures.=20 The Sundra generally name their children in a fairly strict rotation = of only=20 four names regardless of the child's sex. The first child is Wayan = (meaning=20 =91oldest=92) Pron =91Why-ahn. =96 Second is Made (=91between=92 or = =91centre=92) Pron.=20 =91Marr-day=92, not =91Mah-dee=92. =96 Third is Nyoman = (=91smallest=92) Pron. Nee-yoh-Mahn,=20 =91Nee=92 & =91Yoh=92 blend together in short sound =96 = =91Nyoh-Mahn=92, not =91Norman=92=20 but close to it. =96 Fourth is Ketut (meaning =91tail=92) Pron. = =91K-Toot=92 as in book,=20 not as in a trumpet=92s toot. After 4 they commonly go back to Wayan = and start=20 over again. Alternatives occasionally used are Putu or Gede (pron = almost as=20 G=92day) for the first-born and Nengah or Kadek for the = second-born.
    I=20 (=91eye=92) Wayan =96 signifies male. Ni (=91knee=92) Wayan =96 = signifies female if this=20 is significant on the occasion.
    It=92s always a hit to work out = what your=20 name would be if you were Balinese and introduce yourself by that = name.
    If=20 you stand on the beach and yell out, =93Ayo Wayan!=94 at the top of = your voice, do=20 not be surprised at the number of locals who will turn and say = =93Ayo?=94=20
    There are variations to the system and other names may be used = either=20 formally or as 'nick names'. These include, Putu or Gede for the first = child,=20 Nengah or Kadek for the second child and Komang for the third.
    The = caste of=20 a person is denoted by a prefix at times when this is ceremonially or = socially=20 necessary. (Tourists will almost certainly never be in a situation = where this=20 nicety is required.)
    A very detailed account of Balinese naming can = be=20 found at htt= p://www.murnis.com/culture/articlenamestitlesandcaste.htm=20 .
    * The Brahmana caste of priests are addressed as Ida Bagus (male) = or Ida=20 Ayu (female). These are the people who officiate at ceremonies and who = prepare=20 the holiest of holy water. It is considered impolite to have your head = at a=20 higher level that any Brahmana nearby. Be a little careful if you are = invited=20 to a ceremony and are tempted to climb up on something for a better = shot.
    *=20 The names of the Ksatria caste of rulers and warriors are prefixed by = Cokorda=20 or Tjokorda for males and Cokorda Istri for females. Some members of = this=20 caste prefer Anak Agung.
    * There are trade/occupation castes known = as=20 the  Wesia.      Names of the Wesia are prefixed by Gusti or = Dewa for=20 males and Desak for females.     (Blacksmiths and  metalworkers are highly = respected=20 and have their own caste known as the Pande. They are addressed as Pan = or=20 Pande when they are working.) 
    * The overwhelming majority of Balinese are = Sudra=20 caste where names are prefixed by I ('eye') for males and Ni ('knee') = for=20 females.
    An interesting observation is that only male names end = with the=20 letters 'a' and only female names end in 'i'. I don't know if this is=20 significant or not, and if so why it is done.

  2. The small=20 offerings in little square, woven palm leaf = containers=20 that you will find by all the shops and gates and temples, both big = and small,=20 are called =91Banten=92 or 'Canang'. They are offerings to both the = gods and the=20 spirits for personal health, protection and good luck as well as being = a mark=20 of respect. It is considered to be very rude if you step on these, = even=20 accidentally. Make an effort to re-arrange it if you do and offer a = small=20 apology to someone nearby. They are a means of maintaining the all = important=20 balance between the gods and the demons, between the physical world = and the=20 hidden spiritual world -  between 'Siskala' and 'Niskala'. They = are=20 placed on a shrine for the gods and on the ground for the demon = spirits, a=20 little holy water is sprinkled over them (usually from the petals of a = flower)=20 and a quiet mantra recited. If there is a burning incense stick the = smoke=20 is  a symbolic stairway to the seats of the gods. This ritual = gives the=20 offering life and  the essence of the offering is immediately = absorbed by=20 the spirits, leaving only the base substance for the local dogs. A = book,=20 'Offerings' written by a local lady, Francine Brinkworth, is available = in Bali=20 and makes interesting reading.
    The offerings contain 5 elements (as = does=20 the hole for the foundation post of a new building) honouring the 5 = main gods=20 (Brahma, Wisnu, Iswara, Mahadewa and Siwa) and this spiritual = component is=20 most complete when it has a Kepeng (old Chinese copper coin with a = square hole=20 in the centre) placed on top. The kepeng represents the 5 elements of = the=20 material world.

  3. Don=92t touch=20 anyone on the head. The head is the sacred receptacle of the spirit. = The feet=20 by contrast are the least respected area and it is considered quite = rude to=20 show someone the soles of your feet. This is probably why locals might = be=20 offended if you show the bottom of your shoes to their offerings on = the=20 street. (See above note.)

  4. Don=92t use=20 the left hand to pass/pay/etc. It is the toilet hand and seen as = unclean.=20

  5. Don=92t=20 point or beckon with the forefinger or fold your arms when talking to = someone.=20 A palm-down beckoning motion with all the fingers is an accepted = request to=20 'come here please'.

  6. Remove=20 your shoes when invited into a Balinese home, or at least go through = the=20 motions of doing so until your host indicated that it will be OK to = keep them=20 on, as will most often happen to a tourist.

  7. Balinese=20 welcome modest dressing by tourists when = outside of=20 the clear tourist areas, and ritual dressing with sashes and sarongs = is=20 required in most temples. These items of apparel can be purchased = easily, or=20 can be hired at the temple. Jl Double 6 in Legian is noted for its = unique=20 range of quality sarongs at good = prices.=20

  8. If you are=20 involved in a confrontation try not to lose your temper or even speak = loudly.=20 Polite responses are seen as a sign = of good=20 manners, which often becomes translated into right being on your side. = This is=20 particularly important when dealing with officials such as at = Immigration,=20 Customs, Security or =91Polisi=92.

  9. Nyepi Day is a=20 ceremony of religious/cultural observance which = takes=20 place every 210 days, which is  a Balinese year in their 'Saka' = calendar.=20 Nyepi means 'quiet' but it is like New Years Eve to the Balinese = although it=20 is a very religious day with firm obligations on every person. It is a = day of=20 silence and inactivity, for spiritual cleansing, meditation and = personal=20 introspection. These expectations are often enforced by the village = (Banjar)=20 security forces ('Pecalang') or the state =91Polisi=92 on Balinese and = non-Balinese alike, the only exceptions being for emergencies for = which a=20 tourists hotel management will arrange Police dispensation. Even the = airport=20 shuts down, except for emergencies and for re-fuelling through = flights,=20 although passengers are not allowed to alight. At night no lights are = to be=20 shown anywhere and no sounds may be made. The belief is that evil = spirits that=20 were frightened off by the noise and frantic activity of the day = before will=20 not be able to find a dark and silent island to return to, and any = that might=20 have remained for some reason will leave. Tourists will not be able to = leave=20 their hotel where a minimal service only will be offered and even room = lights=20 must be dimmed and curtains/blinds drawn. On the noisy night before = Nyepi=20 (which is much more like a westerners idea of New Years Eve) a = procession of=20 large figures are paraded through the streets of the towns and = villages. This=20 is the parade of the =91Ogoh-ogoh=92. It is a = spectacular=20 reward for tourists who will be confined to their hotels for the next = day but=20 can now see the fun from a street anywhere near their hotels. Driving = will be=20 virtually impossible on any road both before and during the parades. = Most=20 shops will close about midday although restaurants will remain open. = For a=20 detailed comment on the religious and cultural significance of nyepi = to the=20 Balinese have a look at www.thejakartapost.com/news/2008/03/05/nyepi-search-silenc= e-within.html.=20 The things I found interesting are: The concept that nyepi is an = orchestrated=20 play intended to take the Balinese to a perfect spiritual state or=20 'sunia'. The play is in three parts - 1.  The people are = asked to=20 purify their bodies and souls in the presence of their deities, often = at a=20 beach or river where the deities associated with land, water and air = are=20 present - 2.  at significant points (the ancient animists trees,=20 mountains, river junctions or, these days, local road junctions) a = sacrificial=20 ritual of burning aims to pacify restless spirits, often referred to = as=20 'demons' - 3.  the use of sound through the villages to scare off = the=20 local demons is also a means of 'scaring off' personal demons which = flaw the=20 Balinese body and soul.  The contrasting day of silence which = follows is=20 also identified with the silence of internal peace, a forerunner to=20 sunia,  the personal and eternal peace.

  10. Odalan=20 Ceremonies are the anniversaries of individual temples. Given the = thousands of=20 temples in Bali, and their 210 day year, it is easy to find a handy = temple=20 having its Odalan ceremony. Odalan is the time when the Gods return to = the=20 temple to be entertained by the villagers. Many of the ceremonies go = on for=20 two or three days and they are as entertaining for visitors of the = tourist=20 kind as for the Godly kind. If you can refer to a Balinese calendar, = where all=20 of these ceremonies are noted, you will find some special ones with a = red=20 circle around the date. These are the ceremonies that coincide with = the full=20 moon and are especially important and spectacular: well worth going = out of=20 your way to visit. Visitors are welcome to participate but dress is = important,=20 Balinese dress is appreciated even if only in the form of a temple = sash.=20

  11. The Ngaben ceremony is = the Balinese=20 death ritual which is beautiful, compelling and an artistic = presentation not=20 to be missed if there is one in your area. Ask at your hotel=20 desk.

  12. Galungan is=20 often likened to the Balinese Christmas and many will go back to their = villages of origin for the ceremonies. About a week or 10 days later = are the=20 Kuningan ceremonies which are like New Year. Although some shops and = market=20 stalls might close there is little effect in the tourist=20 hotels.=20 Galungan is really the celebration of good over evil. Businesses are = often=20 closed or open with reduced staff because people go back to their home = villages to attend rituals and make offerings to the ancestors. = Penjor, those=20 unbelievably tall bamboo poles with highly decorated leaves and = attachments,=20 will decorate the streets of every village and the doorways of most = houses to=20 recall the victory of Dharma over an evil and godless Balinese king,=20 Mayadanawa. The later ceremony of Kuningan is often described as All = Saints=20 Day for the Balinese. While this likeness is not totally accurate its = a pretty=20 good approximation for understanding the basis of the rituals. It is = during=20 this time between Galungan and Kuningan that the ancestor spirits who = have=20 returned to the village are feted, feasted and entertained by dances = and=20 feasts. Temples are cleaned and decorated for the offerings intended = to please=20 the ancestor spirits and encourage their watchful care of the village = and the=20 villagers for the next 210 days of the Balinese year. The whole period = is one=20 during which the Balinese strive to achieve balance between the = opposing=20 forces of their cosmos. The important Hindu principles of balance=20 between;
    Man and Nature,
    Man and his God(s)
    Man and fellow=20 Man,
    are emphasised in their activities and negative disruptive = thoughts=20 and actions such as theft, deception, anger and violence, jealousy and = lust=20 are avoided so everyone displays their best behaviour. It is a time = when you=20 will see displays of the finest clothes in the wardrobe, the most = graceful=20 dancing and the most colourful foods, offerings and = decorations.

  13. Indonesia's Independence Day is 17th of August. = There are=20 always some celebrations and some of the big shops are either closed = or only=20 open for a short time.

  14. =91Oleh-oleh=92 are small gifts=20 given when you return from a journey, something you might take for a = friend=20 when you return to Bali.
    A gift given to your host for their = hospitality,=20 or to a friend for kindness or simply as something you would like to = do is=20 =91Kado=92 or =91Pemberian=92. If you win the raffle or = a prize or 'buy=20 one get one free' that's 'hadiah'.
    New babies are very = special in=20 Bali. They are seen as having come from the Gods and are as pure = as a=20 human can ever be. I've been told that a very welcome gift that = respects=20 Balinese tradition is nice, new, clean money (value not important = really) in a=20 red envelope. The red envelope is obviously a hangover from part of = their=20 adopted Chinese traditions. If you decorate the envelope with your own = artistic talents, even a carefully written or printed Babies name will = do, but=20 more is better to tickle their artistic sensibilities, like stick-on = cartoon=20 figures or shiny stars, glitter adhered with a glue pen or stick, etc = (see=20 your local newsagent).
    The money is a symbol of your wish for the = child's=20 prosperous life (what Balinese does not want a rich child to look = after them=20 in their old age) and the hand decorated envelope is a very personal = touch=20 that is seen a super special for that baby.
    Put the envelope in = the right=20 (clean) hand of course and the parent will help in this regard as they = will=20 immediately recognise what you are doing. Remember not to touch the = babies=20 head.
    Anything after this dims into insignificance, almost, but you = might=20 find some suggestions below.
    It may not be a good idea to give out = presents=20 to every child that you meet as this could set up an expectation that = all that=20 visitors are good for is handouts. If in doubt ask the parents first. = (Think=20 of yourself as a parent in similar circumstances =96 =91What is that = stranger=20 giving my children?=92)
    Large handouts of sweets may not be in the = best=20 interests of children=92s health.
    I really can=92t recommend the = unbelievable=20 suggestion I recently read that tourists drive along the streets and = throw out=20 sweets to children from the moving car. Apart from the dangers it = seems to be=20 a waste of a golden opportunity to talk to them.
    Children love soap = bubbles, readily available in little bottles with blowing rings = attached under=20 the lids, from party supply stores. Also now available at Matahari's = and other=20 supermarkets in Bali. Keep one in your pocket and casually blow = bubbles in the=20 street when you come across some kids. You won=92t believe how big a = hit you are=20 =96 but have a good supply if you=92re going to start giving them=20 away.
    Families welcome bottled water dispenser (20-litre size) with = tap.=20
    Women like bright fabrics of western pattern. 1.5m. for kebayas = (upper=20 garment). Rp15,000 for tailor to sew.
    Even though western style = goods are=20 available in Bali they are not often bought by the Balinese for = themselves, =96=20 the younger generation excepted perhaps, so don=92t shy away from = purchasing=20 locally.
    Blokes are not easy to get something for although strange = things=20 such as formal ties (expensive in Bali and often yuk!) and even bow = ties are=20 sometimes welcomed by drivers and young blades out to impress the lady = of=20 their fancy as wealthy men of business substance
    Some favour body = sprays=20 such as Lynx, deodorants etc that they would never spend their money = on in=20 Bali. Baseball type caps with Aussie (or your home country) style = logos.=20 Picture postcards from home. Picture books of animals or plants from = home or=20 home travel books with pictures - local auto club or tourism = office.
    Short=20 sleeved dress shirts in Plantation white and pastel = colours.   Even=20 condoms so I've heard although I've never been asked for them. =20 Sunglasses which is another surprise but even cheap Aussie ones are = better=20 quality than the cheap Bali ones.
    For musicians a plastic Recorder = (wind=20 instrument) or a set of guitar strings. For drivers try car shampoos = and waxes=20 or Aussie style stickers of rampant kangaroos etc.
    Good quality = playing=20 cards, chess sets, even a box of fishing tackle and good quality line = if they=20 are shore dwellers and have an interest in this direction
    A small = bag of=20 lollies (sweets) to share around at unexpected times (or a big bag on = the=20 beach =96 or a bag full of small bags) is a great treat. Good = chocolate bars.=20 Bali chocolate is not as sweet as ours. Try Cadbury Dairy Milk, = Caramello,=20 mint chocolate etc. Also Natural Food Company candy, jubes etc.
    For = children small dolls or miniature cars and motorbikes are welcomed, as = toys=20 are not high on the Balinese shopping priorities. Little kangaroos and = koalas=20 with clothing clips. Badges and stickers, address books and autograph = books,=20 drink holders, magnets. Super bouncing balls in 6-packs in the party = section=20 of your local supermarket.
    Lipsticks, nail polishes, skin creams = =96 even the=20 unused remnants of your own supply when you leave at the end of your = holiday.=20
    Cheap bangles in bright colours. Small toy cars. Sun visors in = preference=20 to caps. Water pistols. Hand-held maze games with little ball bearings = in them=20 that you have to roll into holes. 'Magic Blackboards' (lines disappear = when=20 the film is lifted). Keep an eye out at local garage sales. Small = mirrors;=20 check your local plastics store of wardrobe manufacturers for off-cuts = of=20 plastic mirror which can be cut and shaped with regular woodwork=20 tools.
    Colouring books and pencils, particularly with animal shape = erasers=20 on the end. Hair bands and clips. Lollies and chips from the local=20 supermarkets. McDonalds toys. Tennis balls. Plastic whistles. = Balloons,=20 particularly if they blow up to animal shapes rather than just = round.
    The=20 shopping bags that are now common in Australia - green or blue and=20 particularly the brightly coloured ones just available for our June = '06=20 trip.
    Stickers and transfers. Coloured lip salves that youngsters = use to=20 paint stripes and flowers on their cheeks. Face paints and = brushes.
    Warm=20 clothes (old jeans and jumpers) for people living in the cold central=20 highlands particularly.
    Best of all - photos of themselves, with = or=20 without you, enlarged at the nearby Kodak shop (very cheap in Bali) = and put in=20 a frame for them. Perhaps an extra one of them with you, for their=20 parents/children/friends.
    Picture books. Jigsaw puzzles (no = language=20 problems, available for all ages and both sexes and re-useable for=20 generations). School writing books, lined or graph and blank. Text = books and=20 old novels in English are fine, particularly if there are pictures = that relate=20 to the text. Try your local Op Shop where you might get a dozen for $2 = or even=20 a number for free if they know you=92re giving them to a school or = village=20 library in Bali.
    A bit of a = different gift to=20 take to a special friend in Bali is Aussie chocolate. Smoother and = more to the=20 Balinese taste than even their local brands you will be a hit at any=20 party.
    Paper=20 hats, masks, Indian headdress (with feathers). Sheets of stickers for = school=20 books and other prize possessions.
    Balinese women particularly love = to get=20 your old bras as they are beyond the means of most family budgets to = buy new.=20 Take up a collection of them at the office and donate to a worthy = cause.=20
    FOR FAMILIES;
    'Sembako' is short for 'Sembilan bahan pokok' or = the=20 government proclaimed nine food staples. These are -
    - rice
    - = sugar
    -=20 cooking oil
    - kerosine (or kerosene) (or other heating fuel such as = gas in=20 steel cylinders_
    - eggs
    - milk (powdered or tinned best for poor = families - remember no refrigeration)
    - salt
    - meat - beef, = chicken or=20 fish.
    Large boxes of instant noodles will also be a big hit as they = will be=20 something different in their diet.
    Frozen beef.
    Biscuits in the = Australiana tins.
    Sheets and towels, pillows and pillow cases, = maybe even a=20 good quality mattress if you know this would be welcomed.
    Odd = kitchen=20 utensils =96 big spoons, egg flips etc. Plastic containers with good = seals for=20 storing rice, meats etc. Pots and saucepans, frypans, baking dishes,=20 colanders, strainers, fine mesh skimmers, ladles and big serving = spoons,=20 tongs, meat tenderisers, wooden spoons, mops and brooms, dustpans, = food=20 processors, mixers/beaters/whisks/ rice cookers (buy locally), = cutlery,=20 crockery, glasses, mugs and cups, teapots, kettles (open fire and = electric,=20 cleaning equipment,
    Bags of mixed lollies (candy). Tubs of = ice-cream and a=20 stack of plastic spoons.
    A big bag of fruit. Most families = grow some=20 fruit and veg but can=92t grow every thing, or every variety, so fruit = is always=20 welcome particularly so if you know what they don=92t grow themselves. = Similarly=20 tea, coffee, sugar, green vegetables, fish and meat, chillies, garlic = or=20 onions, powdered milk, hot sauces and rice are always welcome. If = possible=20 accompany your friends to their markets where they can select their = produce=20 and you pay for it. This not only ensures that they get the quality of = vegetables etc that they prefer but a side benefit is the heightened = esteem=20 that their friends have for them when a foreign visitor goes shopping = with=20 them. It also means that you are supporting the very local economy = rather than=20 someone unknown in Java or somewhere.
    Store medicines and health = supplies=20 as simple as Bandaids, cotton balls, ointments (local ones if you = can), adults=20 and kids Panadol etc are also welcomed. Ointments and salves that = sting like=20 crazy or smell outrageously seem to be thought of more highly than = mild=20 ones!
    OTHER SUGGESTIONS;
    If a friend is due to have a birthday a = hand=20 made birthday card in a decorated envelope is about the pinnacle of = respect=20 that you can pay to the artistically inclined Balinese.
    A cheap or=20 disposable camera. Bought Duty Free it=92s not such a great expense.=20
    Electric fans are fairly cheap to by in Bali. Check the family = needs=20 first.  An old radio/cassette tape player. The = men=20 particularly are often chess fanatics so a chess set and board will = elevate=20 his standing amongst his friends.
    Balinese are passionate about = soccer (the=20 world game) and soccer balls at schools and orphanages are always=20 welcome.
    Badminton is a national sport and racquets and 'birdies' = are=20 great, particularly for the girls. Frisbees for the beach. Beach = tennis bats=20 and tennis balls, soccer balls (particularly miniature balls for the = younger=20 children) and even Aussie rules footballs (again smaller sizes for = children).=20 Balls that have super bounces, particularly if they are clear with = animal/bird=20 images in the middle of the ball.
    All sorts of school supplies in = any=20 quantity. School fees are between Rp30,000 and 45,000 per month per = child.=20 Uniforms and materials are on top of this as are fees for ceremonies. = It is=20 common to see children going into schools on Saturdays armed with = whiskbrooms=20 instead of books. They are expected to clean the buildings. There are = no=20 government concessions of any sort for education (even for the = children in=20 orphanages) in Indonesia. Wax crayons, Textas (felt-tip pens) and = coloured=20 chalks. One traveller regularly collects pens, pencils rulers etc from = polling=20 booths after elections for donating to orphanages and schools. Get = approval=20 from the electoral office beforehand, in writing if possible. Many = regular=20 travellers sponsor a child=92s education as an on-going gift to a = Balinese=20 family or to an orphanage child. Fees are about Aus$100/year for = primary=20 education, doubling for secondary school and even more if a student = proceeds=20 to senior secondary.
    For school sponsors consider a set of wall = maps for=20 the classrooms. In '06 I came across a supply on the first floor of = the Super=20 Nova department store on Jl Raya Kuta.      If you want a valued gift = that's a=20 bit different get a topographical one of 'Provinsi Bali' at 1:150,000 = scale=20 showing roads, towns, ports, rivers, lakes and provincial borders for = only=20 Rp20,450 or Aus$3.00 approx. How cheap can a reasonable quality wall = map get?=20 They also had similar maps of Indonesia, Australia and the=20 world.
    Indo-English dictionary. If you're = sitting out in=20 the cool of the evening chatting with friends and a food cart ('kaki = lima')=20 goes past buy them all something to eat. Its only about Rp3,000 each = or 40=20 cents a meal!
    Sales brochures for cars (particularly for small = 4-WD=92s like=20 their own =91Kijangs=92) and motorbikes with lots of pictures =96 and = your home=20 prices so they can =91Oooh=92 and =91Ahhhh=92!.
    Packs of Disney = cards. Kids sun=20 glasses, TeleTubbie dolls ***(or whatever is the current television = cartoon=20 craze amongst kids). Key rings with a flavour of you own country. =
    Beads=20 and string for bracelets. Skipping ropes. A4 or Legal size paper, = envelopes of=20 all sizes, sticky tape, pens and highlighters, calculators, computer = software,=20 glue sticks, =91Post it=92 sticky notes, stamps and stamp pad, clip = boards, manila=20 folders, staplers and staples, photo albums, plastic envelopes, rubber = bands,
    You can take English language schoolbooks and educational = magazines=20 for the free English teaching program run in the smallest Bali = villages. Gaye=20 will pick them up from your hotel. Ph 758 737 or you can drop them off = at her=20 shop called =91Eclipse=92 on the right side in the Kuta markets as you = walk=20 through to the beach.
    If you=92re good at tying little animals and = stuff with=20 those long thin balloons you will be an instant hit in Bali =96 but = make sure=20 that you can tie them fast and take an enormous supply.
    The current = crop of=20 brightly coloured eco-friendly shopping bags available almost = everywhere in Oz=20 are great favourites. Get one for each family of friends, or one for = each=20 member of the family and put other little gifts into them that you = think that=20 person would like.
    FOR SCHOOLS =96 = Schooling is=20 not free in Indonesia and the costs of education and required uniforms = is not=20 cheap, especially for the orphanages of course. If you want to help = with a=20 child's education there are organisations such as the Helen = Flavel=20 Foundation and YKIP=20 that will give you good advice. The costs seem to vary inexplicably = with the=20 Foundation giving the best options but it only operates in the = northern areas=20 at present, mainly from a lack of reliable and trustworthy contacts = 'on the=20 ground' in other places. 
    The usual school supplies of pens, = pencils,=20 erasers pads, books and so on are always welcome because they are = always being=20 used. Buy them cheaply in Bali to save on your freight weight and to = give the=20 students the size and style of materials that they are familiar with. = Coloured=20 pencils are sometimes seen as an extravagance as there is = not the=20 money to replace them when they are worn out. Don=92t forget the = teachers=20 who work under similar handicaps to the pupils. Red and green = pens as=20 well as black and blue. Stamps, stamp pads and replenishment inks. = Chalk, good=20 quality with strong colours not the wishy washy sort. Dustless chalk.=20 Blackboard erasers. Blackboard paint and a good brush. Books about = your home=20 flora and fauna. Illustrated books with simple English text. Pencil=20 sharpeners, particularly the good type rotary ones that are screwed to = the=20 wall or door frame. Coloured crayons. Rulers, setsquares and French = curves,=20 lettering templates in a variety of sizes. If you really want to make = a=20 lasting impression offer to fund playground facilities such as paving = bricks=20 to eliminate the rainy season mud and the dry season dust. Sporting = goods are=20 always welcome. Soccer is a passion in Bali, as is chess and badminton = is=20 almost a national game with world champions being local heroes.
    ** = Head=20 lice are not uncommon in Bali and are often rife amongst orphanages = and=20 schools. PediTox is a local shampoo available from Apotics (local = chemists)=20 for Rp3.000 a bottle. Try the Apotic next to the Bintang Supermarket = on Jl=20 Legian. Nits are called 'kutu'  by the Balinese. If giving to = locals away=20 from the tourist areas explain the need for EVERYONE to be treated on = a=20 regular basis until the nit-egg cycle is broken. A small trigger = bottle for=20 spraying in the corners of rooms and amongst bedding might also be = useful.=20 Take care that there is not broken skin on the scalp from frustrated=20 scratching. The best long-term prevention is probably regular hair = care with a=20 good shampoo and a good conditioner. A bulk purchase of this for your = friends=20 is much better than a bulk supply of nit treatment=20 solution.

    FOR BABIES =96 Money is always welcome and = considered not=20 only lucky but is also essential for the 3-month and 6-month = ceremonies. It=20 would be seen as good luck if the first thing you did was to put a = note in the=20 baby=92s hand. (Much like the custom of tapping all the goods in a = market stall=20 with the money from the first sale of the day.) It will also be = especially=20 valued if it is a crisp, new note, and is put into a new, sealed = envelope=20 containing a nice =91congratulations=92 or =91baby=92 card and which = is especially=20 hand written and decorated to honour the occasion. 
    If money = is not=20 really a factor a pram, pusher, bassinet or cot will seem luxurious to = new=20 parents. On a less-grand scale disposable nappies for special = occasions or=20 soft cloth nappies (and pins)  will be welcomed. For struggling = families=20 a supply of baby formula and/or long life milk. Perhaps a baby bath = bought in=20 Bali.

    Lightweight=20 baby sleeping bags with a bunny rug for a throw-over. Heavier weight = sleeping=20 bags will be useful for a family living up in the mountains where it = gets damn=20 cold even though Bali is generally thought of a tropical.

    Bonds suits or=20 other one-piece clothing is not commonly used as kidz run around = without=20 nappies for many months.
    Traditionally within Bali a package is put = together=20 for a new baby. In a woven basket there will be a new set of clothes, = soap,=20 powder etc, and for the parents some rice, sugar and coffee. This = helps to=20 feed the visitors who will come to see the baby and who must be = offered food=20 and drink.
    Some supermarkets have gift vouchers (Matahari).
    Hand = drawn=20 flowers or toys done with coloured pens and glue sprinkled with = glitter will=20 appeal to the Balinese love of handcrafted things.
    Grow suits, such = as=20 Bonds, are not used by the Balinese.
    A toy (stuffed) or mobile = will be=20 appreciated, as the usually scarce monetary resources would not be = spent on=20 such =91luxuries=92. If it=92s been used that=92s OK =96 wash it in = your machine with a=20 dose of antiseptic before you take it.
    Mittens and bootees, in = cotton, will=20 be used. A shawl or jacket in crochet, particularly if you can make it = yourself, will become a family heirloom. Formula milk powder (buy in = Bali)=20 baby powder, heat rash cream, nappy rash cream.
    Used toys scrounged = from=20 friends and neighbours at home will be welcome. Soccer balls = (they=92re=20 soccer mad in Bali) volleyballs and nets, table tennis gear, exercise = mats,=20 running shoes for boys and girls, tennis racquets and balls.
    First = Aid=20 stuff such as antiseptic cream, sticking plasters, cotton balls, = Detol,=20 bandages, tweezers, Panadol/aspirin, eye wash cups, aloe vera gel, = cotton=20 sheets.
    Hair brushes and combs (clean with antiseptic solutions = before=20 taking them if they have been used), towels, face washers, sheets, = pillow=20 cases, hairclips, electric iron, fans, talc powder, shampoo and soaps, = hair=20 clips and ribbons. See also nit control advice above.
    Jigsaw = puzzles and=20 other table-top board games, creative toys such as Lego, sewing kits,=20 educational posters such as world maps or maps of Asia, posters of = places=20 people of different cultures, the human body, musical instrument = posters,=20 portable tape players., pop star posters,
    Take your old and=20 no-longer-favourite music cassettes. If you find a nice driver he will = probably have a player in his vehicle and will welcome your old tapes = as a=20 relief (?) from the ever-present gamelan orchestra.
    PAPER=20 for gift wrapping, and stationery, from Garuda Wisnu, Jl Teuku Umar = almost=20 into Denpasar on the left coming from Kuta about 1 km past Hero=92s = and Libby=20 supermarkets. Set back a bit off the road. Old building reflects the = long=20 existence of the business.
    Also Inti Grafika, also Teuku Umar. Ph = 231 552=20 and the Bintang Supermarket in Seminyak.

  15. ART. Art is now an inseparable part of the Balinese = web of daily=20 life. Balinese art can be seen in painting, carving =96 both stone and = wood =96=20 writing and the decoration of temples and Palaces particularly. This = present=20 flourish of creativity was not always in evidence however. = Historically,=20 Balinese art was simply a means of unremarkably producing religious = objects=20 and a means of covering the surfaces of dull royal buildings to = distinguish=20 them from dull civic buildings.
    To help this file load a little = quicker=20 the whole of the 'Art' piece has been given a page of its own. Use = this link -=20 BALI ART - or go = to our HOME PAGES and look in = the left=20 column contents list.

  16. * = Art tutoring c/- Ramoto=92s Gallery, Kutuh, = UBUD. rodanet@denpasar.wasant= ara.net.id=20 . Tutor is a graduate from Oz. Live models. Best to be early or the = locals=20 will take the best views.

  17. * = ART SHOPPERS looking for art materials will be = amazed at=20 the range and prices at Duta Warna, Jl Diponegoro 206A, Denpasar, Ph = 234 320.=20 The staff are knowledgeable but you will need to make a little = allowance for=20 their stilted English. The Chinese owner = seems=20 grumpy but the stocks and the knowledgeable service makes this = fa=E7ade easy to=20 ignore or joke about. 
    On Jl Imam Bonjol, going towards = Denpasar,=20 about 300 metres past Alfa Supermarket and 50 past the big deckchair = is a=20 billboard for Windsor and Newton supplies. Stuff for kids work also.=20 Interesting building supply and tool centre next door for=20 non-artists.
    Artists seeking framers can rely on Artistica on Imam = Bonjol=20 No322 in Denpasar. Rudy knows art and framing. A rush is all in a days = work=20 for him.
    The Gramedia outlets in larger stores are another good = source.=20 Faber Castel materials are very cheap by Australian = standards.
    Upstairs at=20 the Supernova Department store in Kuta you will find artists canvasses = of all=20 sizes, art supplies also, at very cheap prices.
    Tiara Dewata = department=20 store in Denpasar also has large offerings in their stationary=20 section.
    Ubud is often called the centre of the arts in Bali and = has=20 several supply stores.

  18. WORLD HERITAGE SITES.
    Bali has = nominated four=20 World Heritage Sites that are a =91must visit=92 before they are = over-run and=20 over-commercialised.
    * The Taman Ayun Temple. A classic = water-temple and=20 moat in Mengwi.
    * The Pakerisan River Basin in the Gianyar Regency = (running=20 north-south around the town of Gianyar just east of Ubud). Scenic and=20 archaeological sites of pre-historic and pre-Majapahit sites that are=20 significant in the early Balinese Hindu and even earlier Buddhist=20 history.
    * The rice paddy fields around Jatiluwih village in the = district=20 of Tabanan which is west by north west of Denpasar. It is the oldest = and most=20 complex Subak terracing system.
    * The Bali Barat National Park in = the north=20 west corner of Bali was nominated for inclusion but has not been = selected.=20 (=9204).

  19. CHARITIES and ORPHANAGES = -=20  
    Note that there are 4 types of =91orphans=92 in = Bali;=20 =93Ekonomi=94 which means that the child actually does have parents = but they and=20 the extended family are financially not able to support children. The=20 circumstances that cause this may be temporary or continue for years. = =93Yatim=94=20 means that the child has no father. =93Piatu=94 means that the child = has no=20 mother. =93Yatim-Piatu=94 of course means that the child has neither = mother nor=20 father. Most Yatim and Piatu orphans are of the opposite sex to the = surviving=20 parent, or there may be problems related to sexual behaviour in the=20 family.
    We feel deeply about the situation of these children who = simply do=20 not exist as far as the government is concerned. We have been there = and=20 memories still come back every time we see our own children and = grandchildren.=20 For information go to http://www.filosbali= .net/tuka_orphanage.htm=20 or http://www.filosbali= .net/BaliOrphanages.htm =20 where you=92ll find directions and info on other orphanages. For the = story of=20 our visit go to www.filosba= li.net/BaliStory2000.htm#Day%2015/ =20 but be aware that this is towards the end of a 400 page 'book' and = will take a=20 few minutes to load.
    * A definitive page listing Indonesian = Orphanages,=20 although without any helpful details, can be found at www.yakee.de/o= rphanage/Bali-Orphanage.php3=20 . From the list of 27 =96 in March 2003 - you=92re bound to find one = close to=20 wherever you=92re staying.
    Also have a look at http://micbali.proboards21.com/index.cgi?b= oard=3Dreport&action=3Ddisplay&thread=3D1754=20 for names and locations.
    ***=20 If you are interested in sponsoring the=20 education of a child or supporting a small English language school = or=20 remote and needy Balinese we strongly recommend that you have a look at=20 :-
    *** Helen Flavels Foundation, where=20 every cent donated goes to the needy and all = expenses,=20 except bank fees, are met by Helen and Ron's retirement funds (now = that they=20 are no longer in business which has funded their activities in the = past);=20     http://www.helenflavelfoundation.org/.  The costs of = sponsoring a=20 child's primary education through the Foundation is only Aus$120, = which might=20 be a small price to pay for future peace by keeping the children out = of the=20 hands of fundamentalist schools. Made Dedut is the driver they suggest you = use for your=20 northern excursions. He is a driver frequently used by the Helen = Flavel=20 Foundation and therefore knows where all the schools, orphanages and=20 retirement homes are. His Bali number is 08155 8014 108 or (081 338 = 727 461).=20 A couple of days notice might be needed. Donations to=20 schools, orphanages, and people. Virtually anything will be put to = good use,=20 modified or altered or traded for higher priority stuff. Do not be = backward=20 about offering whatever you have.
    ***=20 In Western Australia the Swan Valley Rotary Club is a big supporter of = Bali's=20 orphans and will assist you in sponsoring a child (or children) = through their=20 education years for a little over A$100. This organisation is similar = to the=20 Helen Flavel Foundation described above and is just as involved and = just as=20 reliable. E-mail Noel at noel@lonarch.com.au.
    *** Similarly in = South=20 Australia the Gawler Light Rotary club has a support program for A$110 = per=20 child. Have a look at http:= //www.gawlerlightrotary.org.au/default.asp?page=3Desp.=20 or contact Jacquie at esp@gawlerlightrotary.org.au.
    The Legian = Gardens=20 Restaurant in Jl Melasti is a drop-off point for donations. There is a = large=20 box there.
    Almost a local is Pat Scott a New Zealander who works = with the=20 Rotary clubs of Bali helping mainly children who are part of the East = Bali=20 Poverty Project (See lower down.). = thebalivilla@gmail.com/.
    * =20 Our own favourite was the Orphanage at Tuka, a small village = about 3 Km=20 north off the road to Tanah Lot temple and about 8-10 kilometres north = west of=20 Denpasar and they are now doing quite well compared with other places. = (http://www.tukaorphanage.net/)= Their=20 address is Panti Asuhan Sidi Asthu, Jl Raya Tuka, Banjar = Dalung, which=20 any reasonable driver will find. The phone is (0361) 229-582 and it is = a good=20 idea to phone ahead of your visit.  The best = visiting times=20 are Sunday after 9 am or weekdays after 3 when school is over and the=20 afternoon rest period is done. Our visit in October =9204 suggested to = us that=20 it had improved greatly over the years and quite by chance we found = the -=20 -
    *  Panti Asuhan Alas Kasih is in Negara up on = the=20 south west coast, which we have decided to sponsor now. The address is = Jl=20 Ngurah Rai, NEGARA. Ph 0365 41168 and the managers mobile is 081 557 = 11391.=20 It=92s a day trip up there but a rarely visited section of Bali that = has some=20 exceptional scenery that is a bit different. Go to our home page at http://www.filosbali.net/ and = look for=20 Negara in the left side column when it opens. Donations of goods (not = money)=20 can be left with Haaris at the Bali Cyber Cafe and Restaurant in = Legian. From=20 May '06 the new address will be 9 Komplex Sriwijaya, Jl Putih = Jelantic, KUTA.=20 This is just off Jl Legian a bit south of the Melasti = intersection.
    The=20 place is really a bit more than your average cafe and we can recommend = it for=20 a good meal from a menu with some differences.]
    *  = Yayasan -=20 Panti Asuan Yasa Kerthi Karangasem, Jl Ngurah Rai No45,=20 Amlapura, past Candi Dasa. Ph (0363) 21210. It's an = orphanage=20 that is off the beaten track in east Bali. The desperate poverty out = that way=20 generates a need for food before 'luxuries'. Run by Ni Kadek, Ph 085 = 935 124=20 257. Best to get an Indo speaker to do the phoning for you ans ask her = what=20 she needs most before you go..
    Soap, medicated shampoo, tooth = brushes and=20 tooth paste are commonly needed essentials, combs and hair brushes are = welcome=20 but fancy thinks like hair scrunchies and/or bright ribbons, soft = toys, $2=20 radios (with spare batteries) and similar non-essentials will always = win the=20 kids over, here or at any other orphanage you visit.
    Rice is always = needed=20 at these places since the government cut the rice allowance by 50% in = '05. If=20 you can get them there in reasonable condition meat, fish, vegetables = and=20 fruit are also welcomed but as there is no refrigeration (power costs = too=20 high) larger quantities cannot be kept. A 40 pack carton of dry = noodles for=20 about Rp50,000 at most. Things like cooking oil, nuts and so on will = last=20 until used and provide an alternative to boiled rice. Think of the = things that=20 you keep on the pantry shelves at home for more inspiration.=20      
    The 9 basic food list generated as a months = sustenance supply=20 for a family of four after the bomb included; 30Kg rice, sugar, = cooking oil or=20 margarine, beef and chicken meat, eggs, milk powder, corn, kerosene = (also=20 called paraffin) for cooking fuel, and iodised salt. A simpler = =91quick fix=92 was=20 rice, sugar, oil, instant noodles and iodised salt.
    We believe = that the=20 older kids here, especially the girls, show signs of iron deficiency = because=20 of a shortage of meat and fish in their diet. Someone who knows might = suggest=20 that bulk supplies of iron or multi vitamin tablets would be good. If = you have=20 knowledge in this area we'd like to hear from you.
    ***  If you = can't=20 decide or can't make a trip think about donations of cash to Bali = Kids. They=20 get involved in all sorts of things for any orphanage but mainly they = provide=20 for visiting medical care to the kids. Their Mobile Medical Care = facility has=20 over 5,000 kids in the register and treated over 1750 kids in the = first 3=20 months of '07. A unique service and not cheap!!! Yayuk Kanti is the = Director=20 and you can phone him about donations on (0011) (62) 0812 3858 337 or = e-mail=20 yayuk_balikids@yahoo.com. =
    Someone has set up a web site for the = orphanage at=20 http://www.a;askasih.org.id/.=20
    Good quality mattresses are also needed (mid '05) and Karya Subur = at Jl=20 Gatot Subroto in Denpasar has the best value/quality at Rp310,000 for = the=20 common 120 x 200 size 'Pinang Special'.
    * Out east from Kuta - = Sanur, near=20 Klungkung, is Yayasan Kripana Putra Dharma Panti Asuhan Semara=20 Putra, at Sekreteriat Jl. Dewi Sartika N0 5 KLUNKUNG. Very = poor and=20 rarely visited they are as worthy of your help as is Negara (above) = because=20 both are isolated to a greater than normal degree.
    * People = who=20 distribute gifts to needy families, and who know the really needy = cases are=20 the women of Bali, the Bali International Women=92s Association = (BIWA).=20 Check their website at www.biwabali.com/ or www.bali123.com/biwaba= li/index.htm.=20 In 2003 they ran their annual Bazaar with nearly 3000 attending and = over Rp250=20 million was raised in one day for AIDS victims, HIV prevention and aid = to=20 underprivileged children. Local support at this level indicates a = known and=20 respected organisation.
    * The East Bali Poverty Project = helps=20 disadvantaged children to help themselves. Sort of =91Give a man a = fish and feed=20 him for a day, Teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime.=92 Go = to http://www.eastbalipovert= yproject.org/=20 for details of this worthy cause. David Booth who is = both=20 founder and currently chairman of the East Bali Poverty Project has = been=20 awarded the Order of the British Empire (OBE) for his =91services to = sustain=20 development in rural East Bali=92. 2004. East Bali has an endemic = iodine=20 deficiency in the poor rural areas. The Project tries to remedy this = by=20 education, provision of clean water, a balanced diet and personal and = local=20 hygiene.
     * Panti Asuhan Kesayan Ikang Papa is a small=20 orphanage for about 20 handicapped children in Gianyar on Jl Elangga. = Gianyar=20 is east of the southern tourist areas, past Sukawati where the great = markets=20 are, towards Klungkung, Candi Dasa, Amlapura, Tirthagangga and Amed. = Its about=20 30 Km from Kuta and much less from Sanur of course. As its a bit off = the=20 common tourist paths they don't get a lot of visitors but still need a = lot of=20 help as you can imagine. The kids are mostly hearing impaired and some = have=20 intellectual problems as well. Be warned that you will lose your heart = if you=20 visit them. A driver familiar with the place and the rout is Kadek = Artana who=20 can be contacted on (+62 812) 380 7 160 or e-mail Artana_Kadek@yahoo.com. We = visited in=20 '06 and I felt that the carers here were especially good and dedicated = to what=20 must be a trying task.
    * There is an orphanage in Singaraja which = is not=20 far from Lovina and Richard, the owner of the Rambutan Cottages where = we=20 usually stay, or his wife Tini will happily take you there. Phone them = at=20 Rambutan Cottages (upgraded late in '05)on 0362 413 88, mobile 081 238 = 319=20 41.  The place is housed in a school which went bankrupt (I'll = leave you=20 to guess why) and caters for a mix of Hindu and Buddhist children. = They are=20 the most delightful kids who will charm the visitor who wants to spend = some=20 time there. I go to jelly when some innocent little kid just wants to = put the=20 tip of his (or her) finger on the back of my hand to be recognised. = Their=20 address is Dana Punia, Kampus Afgar, Banyuning. Its easy to visit = being not=20 far off the main road into Singaraja and reasonably well signposted = (there is=20 a right turn just after crossing a bridge over a spectacular river = ravine)=20 although down a short but steep entry road with a very sharp left hand = bend at=20 the bottom. Your driver will have no problems even though he might = have to ask=20 for directions from a local a couple of times.
    * Gloria=92s Crisis=20 Care Centre=92 operates in north Bali around Lovina. Gloria offers = free=20 health care to impoverished Balinese villagers who would otherwise get = no=20 assistance at all. See =91Glorias<= /A>=92.=20
    * Carry For Kids is an organisation fostering the = carrying of=20 selected goods to many third world locations including Bali. Many = (Most? =96=20 All?) travellers to Bali soon learn to go lightly and buy essential = supplies=20 at their destination, but return home with bulging cases. This = organisation=20 seeks to use the empty suitcase space going in to Bali by taking = donations to=20 charities. http://carryforkids.o= rg/about/history.html=20 will give you the idea. They care equally for all needy children in = Indonesia,=20 regardless of race or creed.
    * The Hope Children=92s = Home.=20 Provides accommodation to about 100 children of all ages until they = become=20 independent. Ages range from a few months to early 20=92s. A child = here can be=20 fully sponsored for US$20 per month. It is unashamedly a Christian=20 organisation and teaching the doctrines and conversion are an = essential part=20 of their program for the children in their care. http://www.helpingbali.com/ ; = e-mail info@helpingbali.com. =
    * St=20 Francis of Assisi Orphanage in Dalung about 35 min by car from = Kuta.=20 English language is a bit of a problem. Check with Kerry or Milton at = the Indo=20 National Restaurant now in Jl Padma, Legian, near the Lokha Hotel but = on the=20 opposite side.
    * An orphanage way out on the west coast (and = which,=20 like Alas Kasih in Negara, consequently gets overlooked usually) is = Giri=20 Asih at the small village of Malaya in the Negara district near = Gilimanuk=20 which is the ferry port to Java. Donations of money are welcomed and = are=20 officially registered and can be for very specific, donor elected = projects,=20 which is a bit unusual. Donors are encouraged to visit and re-visit to = check=20 on progress of their selected project. For info and photos contact barrygw@bigpond.com.
    * = Yayasan=20 Anak-Anak is in Mengwi, about 40 minutes east of the southern tourist = areas at=20 Banjar Gede, Abian Base, MENGWI, Badung. Ph 081 2385 8337. The = Director is=20 Yayuk Kanti; E-mail y_kanti@hotmail.com. =
    * =20 The Kupu Kupu (=91Butterfly=92) Foundation cares for the = needs of=20 physically and mentally handicapped Balinese. They have a gallery at = Jl Tirta=20 Tawar 22A, Banjar Kutuh Kelod, UBUD. Ph Begonia Lopez (62) 081 = 236 287=20 20. E-mail kupubali@yahoo.com, web=20 site www.yamp.com/kupukupu . Their=20 aim is to release these people from the confining cocoon of their=20 disabilities. http://yamp.com/KupuKupu/ . = Located in=20 Jimbaran it is easy to visit here.
    * YKIP http://www.ykip.org/ or (http://www.mitrais.com/ , contact = Wiwie=20 Harris) and YKIDS (http://www.mysitespace.com/ = contact=20 Sarti Pramana) are organisations set up by business to organise = educational=20 relief for children orphaned in the Bali=20 bombing at the Kuta = nightclubs. Both=20 contact persons are English speakers. The costs of administering the = donations=20 are absorbed into the normal daily business costs and ALL donations go = to the=20 children=92s benefit. Following the terrorist bombing  YKIP = estimated that=20 31% of children were forced out of education (either temporarily or=20 permanently) in Bali. Following the tsunami devastation at Christmas = time in=20 '04 YKIP has estimated that over half a million dollars (Australian) = is needed=20 to get children back into schools in Indonesia. Donations of US$150 = per year=20 to YKIP ('05 costs) will meet the costs of a child's primary = education. US$250=20 is required for secondary students. If these costs help prevent future = terrorism they may be insignificant in the future lives of ourselves = and our=20 children.
    * KEMBALI is an educational = support=20 program in the Gianyar Regency with links to Rotary but run by the = Bali Hotels=20 Association through YKIP, a well known and respected organisation.=20 www.ykip.org/.
    * IDEP Foundation is an Indo Non Government=20 Organisation that seems to believe in teaching men to fish =     instead of giving them fish every day. = Presently (=9205)=20 focused on Aceh after the tsunami the have many environmentally = friendly=20 projects to help the Balinese in all sorts of ways. Have a look at = their very=20 comprehensive web site, www.idepfoundation.org/index.html. =
    * The=20 Southern Cross Bali Association Incorporated is organised by Ken and=20 Christine,     southerncrossbaliassocinc@hotmail.com, = with help=20 from others including travellers Scully, Smudge and Roo-Ted, who do = all sorts=20 of good works, in schools and particularly for the disabled. They have = wheelchairs to lend to those in need, tourists included. All they ask = is a=20 donation to the Association in return. Phone numbers are 0414 924 745 = and 0431=20 985 878. Even if you don=92t need a wheelchair or some other help in = Bali you=20 can still make a donation to Westpac account 036-127-177967, ABN 22615 = 162=20 524. Part of their works also involves clothes, medications, bandages, = antiseptics, saline solutions and stomach soothers. Donations are=20 welcomed.
    * Kerri and Milton at the Indo = National=20 Restaurant in Jl Padma have good and independent     contacts in the charitable organisations of = Bali. If=20 you really want to know what is needed and how to help go and talk to = them.=20 (And have a meal too, you won=92t be disappointed.)
    * Asri = Mara at Alus=20 Tailors E-mail alusasri@yahoo.com, is=20 a member of the Bali-Taman Rotary Club which has school = projects going=20 on in different areas. Work includes providing basic furniture such as = student=20 desks and re-roofing schools to keep the kids dry. She has excellent = English=20 skills and is a fine tailor. Alus Tailor and Boutique, Jl Raya Kuta = No. 408,=20 Ph(0361) 753 646.
    * Another Rotary contact is in Nusa Dua, nusaduarotary@vsrotarybali= .org.=20 In particular they support a school for deaf children, Sekola Luar=20 Biasa-Bali, in Jimbaran. The school takes children from anywhere = in Bali=20 or the nearby islands, 150 in total in 2003 with about 50 from outside = Bali=20 who get no financial support from their homes. Their need is for funds = for=20 fees (this is a common need at schools and orphanages throughout Bali = as there=20 is no government support) and for normal school supplies of pencils, = pens,=20 books, paper and art materials.
    * There is a Muslim orphanage, = Al-Islam,=20 at 178 Jl Raya Pemogan, Ph 725 075. They may be Muslim but they are = still just=20 kids in need and I don't think we should lower ourselves by = discriminating.=20 Perhaps being Muslim our visits and donations here might have more = future=20 impact than we realise.
    * If you want to provide food for a = deprived group,=20 try a large box of Sari Mie instant noodles (40 packs) for = Rp30,000,=20 and a large container of drinking water Rp5,000 (about 75 cents Aust.) = a bit=20 over Aus$5 in total.
    * Readers of the Bali Travel Forum have = recently=20 been made aware of the =91Rubbish Tip People=92 near Sanur. If = you=92ve ever=20 wondered where all of the islands rubbish goes it is here, in = meters-high=20 mounds running for kilometres. People actually live here on the dump,=20 scavenging for an existence. Donations of almost anything connected = with the=20 essences of life will be welcomed and can be left at the Adopta Coop on Jl Gunung Sari 28C. To = find it go=20 along Jl Imam Bonjol towards Denpesar, past the Alpha Supermarket (on = your=20 left) and turn right just after the petrol station onto Gunung = Sari.Adopota is=20 on the left side of the road. Ph Niluh on     0813 = 5320=20 5646 for closer directions or driver = Made on=20 0812 395 7296. E-mail erni_erniati@yahoo.com. = They also now=20 have a more central shop in Gang Ronta off Poppies Lane II in = Legian-Kuta. The=20 Adopta Coop is a group of women made widows by the Sari Club bombing. = They=20 have learnt sewing skills and with donated machines organised = themselves into=20 a business cooperative and are now more than self-supporting, they are = helping=20 others such as the Rubbish Dump people and orphanages. Go and see = their wares=20 and support their self-help initiative. They will print polo's and = T-shirts=20 for you. Polo's about Aus$12 each. Their web site is at http://pacungbali.com/adopta.=20
    Rice, noodles, water, insect repellent, sunhats, gloves - - - . = The 9=20 basic food list generated as a months sustenance supply for a family = of four=20 after the bomb included; 30Kg rice, sugar, cooking oil or margarine, = beef and=20 chicken meat, eggs, milk powder, corn, kerosene (also called paraffin) = for=20 cooking fuel, and iodised salt. A simpler =91quick fix=92 was rice, = sugar, oil,=20 instant noodles and iodised salt.
    Text books in English are fine,=20 preferably with pictures that relate to the writing. Op Shops or other = charitable outlets in your home town are often inundated with books = and might=20 be happy to give you a number for a worthy cause. Airlines will often = allow=20 you a few Kg=92s over weight if you are taking donations and = arrangements are=20 made beforehand.
    * Panti Asuhan Salam is a = small=20 Orphanage in Tabanan. The address is Jalan Rama Gang 1/No9, TABANAN, = Bali. Ph=20 (62 361) 810 086. The Director is I Gusti Ketut Suardana. The = orphanage is=20 north west of Ubud off the road to Tanah Lot. There were 17 girls and = 28 boys=20 there in '05, aged from 5 to 18 years. Like all orphanages any = donation will=20 be put to good use but the greatest need is for money to pay school = fees.
    *=20 The Rotary Club of Ubud has a Support Ubud Schools scheme. You can = drop off=20 goods for the schools at Saraswati Bungalows on Jl Raya, Ubud, across = the road=20 from the Casa Luna Restaurant and a bit right. You can also use Ibah = Resorts=20 and Spa. You will be invited to use a visitors book to log details of = your=20 donations as across check that everything get where you intend and = there will=20 be a follow-up thank you too.
    *=20 A new (mid '06) support program for children in 3 schools in = Bontihing, about=20 25 Km east of Singaraja, is run by the Gawler and Light Rotary club. = There are=20 400 children needing education sponsorship and the program follows a = very well=20 known one set up by the Swan Districts Rotary. http://www.gawlerlightrotar= y.org.au/.=20 E-mail esp@gawlerlightrotary.org.au= =20 .

  20. Panti Asuhan=20 Jodie O'Shea is a fairly new orphanage in Denpasar. Jodie O'Shay was a = young=20 Australian woman who died from her injusies following the Bali = bombing. Her=20 courage convinced her Balinese carer to establish a memorial. The = orphanage=20 was established with the aid of a US$15,000 donation and initially = housed=20 children taken from another orphanage where they were being abused and = is now=20 also helped by tha Southern Cross Bali Association. It now houses = about 35=20 children (Jan '08) with a large proportion from very poor farming = communities=20 on the island of Sumba. There are more details at http://www.careforkidsbali.com/<= /A>.=20

  21. The tall,=20 slim, colourful flags on bamboo poles are common. They are called = =91Lelontek=92=20 or =91Umble umble=92. You can buy them on = the very top=20 floor of the Denpasar markets. AppRp.60,000. These are = traditionally=20 religious decorations with their origins in ancient China, their = colours=20 associated with the arts of feng shui. They signify the presence of a = god at=20 an event. The tapering top that droops over towards the ground = symbolises the=20 belief that even the mightiest of gods or beings must have humility = and=20 respect for the earth that nourishes them. =91Man must be like the = stalk of=20 rice, the more bountiful the head of grain the more the stalk bows to = its=20 source.=92 They are now frequently used simply as graceful decorations = in=20 motion. If you buy some for the back yard Aussie Customs will not let = you=20 bring in the bamboo poles and the same variety and size are not easy = to find=20 in milder Oz. In South Australia smallish bamboos can be found along=20 un-developed river banks but there are larger ones around Pt Wakefield = and at=20 Stone Hut on the way to Pt Augusta I hear. Let me know if you hear of = others=20 please.
    Similar in style but made from a bamboo stalk with highly=20 decorative cut fronds are the ceremonial village street decorations = called=20 =91Penjor=92.
    The temple umbrellas, usually = in crimson or=20 gold colour and on long poles, are called =91Payung=92. They are = associated wit=20 religious ceremonies and therefore not seen as decorations by the = Balinese.=20 They serve to shade the gods and indicate their importance, thus = pleasing the=20 deities.
    A great source of Umble Umbles is Ud Sri Rejeki at Jl = Raya Kuta=20 No 97, Ph 753 477 or 765 739. Not only flags and decorations but all = sorts of=20 bits and pieces for ceremonies. Flags are about Rp40-50,000 depending = on how=20 many you want and how well you can bargain.

  22. August is=20 the beginning of the dry season and is popular for cremations, to which tourists will be welcomed = if they are=20 not too intrusive.

4.    SAYING =96=20 language prompts.=20

Try http://www.filosbali.net/Ph= rases.htm =20 for a pocket-size list you can print off and take with you. It fits = easily into=20 a shirt pocket, wallet or purse.

  1. One of=20 the best =91ice-breakers=92 we have found in Bali is to introduce = yourself (and=20 you will be asked who you are, nicely, a number of times) in the = Balinese=20 fashion. You are Wayan if you are first born, Made if you are the = second=20 child, Nyoman if the third and Ketut if you are the fourth then add = your given=20 name. For example; I=92m Wayan John and this is Nyoman Betty. =

  2. Another ice breaker is the = formal=20 Hindu greeting, 'Om swasti astu', (may God watch you, spoken with the = normal=20 Christian hand in prayer attitude) that even Muslims accept although = they are=20 even more impressed if you can remember their special version, = 'Assalam mu=20 alaikum' which does not need the hand action.

  3. =91Salamat=20 pagi=92, Good morning =96 to 11am. =91S.. siang=92 =96 11 to 3. =91S.. = soree=92 =96 to 6pm.=20 =91S.. malam=92 =96 Good night. The spoken emphasis is on the last = syllable, eg=20 =91Salamat pageeee=92. The reply if often simply, = =91Pageeee=92.=20

  4. =91Salamat=20 tidur=92 =96 Sleep well. =91S.. tingal=92, Goodbye (when leaving). = =91S..jalan=92 =96=20 Goodbye (when you are the one who is staying and a guest is leaving).=20

  5. =91Halo!=92=20 (=91Ahhloh=92), Hello. =91Ayo=92, Hey/Hello (informal). =91Sampi = jumpa=92, See you, Bye=20 bye (informal).

  6. =91Terima=20 kasih=92, Thank you.

  7. =91Sama=20 sama=92 You are welcome =96 the response to =91Terima kasih=92. =

  8. =91Apa=20 kabar?=92, How are you? =91Bagus.=92 - Exceptionally good. =91Baik = baik=92. =96 Very Well.=20 =91Baik=92. =96 Well.

  9. 'Enak' or 'enak enak' -=20 delicious.

  10. =91Sin can=20 can=92 =96 No problem!

  11. =91Ma=92af=92=20 =96 Sorry. =91Permissi=92 =96 Excuse me.

  12. =91Berapa=92=20 (pron =91brapa=92) =96 =91How much=92. Understand that once said you = have already=20 entered into the bargaining/purchase process and if the vendor agrees = to your=20 last price you are morally obliged to buy the goods. =

  13. =91Ya=92,=20 Yes. =91Tidak=92. No, (Not polite. Avoid if possible.) =91Tidak Mau=92 = =96 don=92t want.=20 =91Singla pis=92 =96 no money.

  14. =91Hari=20 ini=92 =96 today. =91Besok=92 =96 tomorrow. =91Besok = besok=92 =96 sometime.=20

  15. =91Bisa=20 ambil foto?=92 =96 Can I take a photo?

  16. =91Saya=20 belum lancar di Bahasa Indonesia=92. =96 I=92m not fluent in = Indonesian.=20

  17. =91Tolong=20 Bicara pelan-pelan=92 =96 Please speak slowly.

  18. =91Saya=20 kurang mengerti=92 =96 I don=92t understand.

  19. =91Air=20 panas dan dingin=92 =96 Hot and cold water. =91Botol air minum=92. =96 = Bottled drinking=20 water.

  20. =91Ketas=20 wese=92 - Toilet paper. =91Way-say=92 =96 W.C. Dimana kamar kecil?=92 = =96 Where is the=20 toilet?

  21. =91Berapper hargar?=92 =96 How much? =

  22. =91Cepat=20 cepat!=92 Hurry =96 But don=92t expect any reaction. =

  23. =91Apotic=92=20 =96 chemist - pharmacy.

  24. =91Jalan=20 Jalan=92 =96 walking. =91Jalan Jalan Jalan=92 =96 walking a long way. =

  25. =91Satu=92 =96=20 one. =91Dua=92 =96 two. =91Tiga=92 =96 three. =91Empat=92 =96 four. = =91Lima=92 =96 five.=20

5.    SHOPPING.

If = you=92re not sure=20 what you can safely (legally) bring back into Oz have a look at the = horses mouth=20 =96 www.customs.gov.au/osgoods= .htm.=20 Other countries will certainly have a similar site for=20 reference.

Shopping can be a frightening experience for the first-time traveller = to=20 Bali. The shop-keepers and the street seller (there are now very few of = these=20 compared with the legions laying in wait for you just a few years ago) = are=20 easily seen as over-the-top and aggressive, even rude and abusive in = their=20 persistent verbal and physical insistence that you come into their shop = and buy=20 something.
The trick is difficult for the westerner because it seems = so=20 rude, but it is best to be steadfast and not even acknowledge their = existence.=20 Not by a pause in your stride, by a turn of the head or eyes in their = direction,=20 not by an acknowledgement of their, 'Good morning Boss' or 'I know = you!'. If you=20 don't want to buy you must keep going though they will try all of their = many=20 tricks, learned from greater experience than yours, to make you pause. = If you=20 do, you indicate that you just MIGHT want to buy something and the = gentle=20 sucking of the leech turns immediately into the grip of a tiger.
If = you=20 recognise what your purchase might actually mean to them their actions = will seem=20 a little bit more understandable. A sale might really be the difference = between=20 putting rice in front of their children and another night of hunger. = These days=20 (post the Sari club bombing when tourist numbers are at an all time low) = you=20 will often see a shopkeeper take your money from a sale and brush it = against all=20 of the other items left in the shop. This is for good luck and is an = indication=20 that the sale is his or her first for the day - even though it might be = late in=20 the afternoon.
Never take the easy way out and say, 'Maybe tomorrow,' = because=20 if you do pass that way tomorrow they will recognise you and remind you = that you=20 promised to buy something from them today.
After a while most=20 travellers get used to the system, overcome the hard-sell approaches and = can=20 actually enjoy talking to the people. They are really wonderful human = beings=20 with a great sense of humour and a genuine curiosity about you and = particularly=20 your family. When you reach this sort of relationship you can say you = are a=20 seasoned Bali traveller and begin to appreciate the people, their much = different=20 lives and their fascinating culture.

There are always sales on somewhere in the = southern tourist=20 areas, and there are really some amazing bargains to be had for the = ardent=20 shopper who knows their prices.  Look in the free Bali Beat or = Hello Bali=20 magazines, usually available at your hotel desk at no cost or look for = the=20 window signs as you walk or drive around. If you want a particular thing = ask the=20 ladies at your hotel reception desk. They are also good shoppers, from = necessity=20 more than desire most often.

There are = a growing=20 number of fixed price outlets in Bali (all major department stores and=20 restaurants are fixed price) but generally off the streets and in the = markets=20 you will be expected to bargain. The opening price will be about two or = three=20 times the price that the seller expects. With good grace and some humour = you=20 debate the sums until you reach a figure they all are happy with. You = will get=20 used to hearing, =93Good for you =96 good for me=94; =93I give you best = morning price=94=20 and =93You mak me bunkroot!=94 frequently.
It is considered to be = the height of=20 rudeness to begin bargaining for something you really don=92t want to = buy or to=20 refuse the purchase if the seller accepts your offer.
There is a good = section=20 on one travellers views an the art of bargaining at this link. Bargaining=20 advice.

A recent = scam which=20 is upsetting shoppers is the habit in some smaller stores of ringing up = extra=20 items at the till, or entering incorrect (higher) prices for purchased = goods.=20 When you leave a correction is made and the difference pocketed by the = operator.=20 If you think you=92re being cheated don=92t be afraid to check the bill = or to go=20 back and check the shelf price of an item. 
Be polite when you = point=20 out the =91unfortunate=92 error =96 losing = your cool is seen=20 as a degrading weakness by the Balinese. Calm and reasoned logic will = gain you=20 far more respect and cooperation.
Try to keep a sense of perspective = during=20 the process and remember that a difference of a few hundred rupiah is = really=20 chicken feed! =96 a few cents or pence or escuderas or punts or=20 something.

=91Wartels=92, post &=20 phone shops, are often also bank agencies and very reliable money = changers=20 (perhaps even more so than Kodak/PT Central outlets) who are happy to = accept a=20 photo copy of the first page of your Passport when changing Travellers = Cheques =96=20 a much safer option. They are not as well used as PT Central outlets yet = but as=20 travellers find out about them they will become much more popular.=20  
Exchange rates are best in the south around=20 Kuta. 

Regulars suggest as follows - Food stuffs = try Makro=20 or Galael or Pepitos: for clothes try Ramayana or Matahari's although = Ramayana=20 might be better for larger western sizes: Tiara Dewata is popular with = the=20 locals but may be a bit dearer for foods.

  1. Photo=20 enlargements are very cheap. Take with you, from home, any negatives = of photos=20 you want enlarged and get them done in Bali. Get the good photos you = take=20 there enlarged to take home also. (Get digitised service in addition. = $12 on=20 CD-ROM.)
    8" x 6" (20cm x 15 cm) enlargements are Rp4,000 (less = than A$1),=20 14" x 10" Rp13,000 (A$2.75) up to 60cm x 50cm Rp52,500 (A$11.25). =
    Take=20 photos of your Bali friends and give them enlargements as = gifts.
    Disposable=20 underwater cameras are great if snorkelling. Cheaper in Oz at app $17 = instead=20 of Rp140-150,000.

  2. SUPERMARKETS =96=20 Large & small.
    Most supermarkets in the larger centres are open from 9 am to 10 pm. The Bintang in Legian is open = from 8 to=20 11.
    It can be slow and frustrating to endure the payment process at = many=20 supermarkets. Dockets seem to be written for every item, taken to a = supervisor=20 for checking and eventually passed down a line of '=91do-ers & = more=20 checkers'=92 at the registers. It seems to be the Balinese way of = keeping up=20 female employment but it=92s not swift.
    Simple electrical goods = such as hot=20 water jugs, toasters etc are cheap to buy (try Macro or the new in, = '07,=20 Carrefour=96 see below) and cheap enough to give to a local family = when you=20 leave. Complex electronic stuff will be a worry if you take it = home and=20 need to claim on a warranty.

  3. Patent medicines are = available and=20 cheap at the supermarkets. Local medicines ('Chinese' medicines often) = are=20 also available and should not be ignored. Arthritis sufferers might = try Salon=20 Pas Gel first or even one of the stronger rubs available such as = Voltaren Gell=20 at Rp97,000 in '05.
    Local disinfectants for wounds, scratches and=20 abrasions are effective and much better than ignoring it until you = have a=20 full-blown tropical infection problem.
    The local chemists or drug = stores=20 are called 'Apotic's'.

  4. Tiara=20 Grosir supermarket, Jl Teuku Umar on the west side of Denpasar. = Wholesale=20 warehouse that welcomes Bali tourists. Also has food stalls for meals = and 2=20 bakeries. Same owners as Alpha, which is a branch closer to Kuta on Jl = Imam=20 Bonjol. Not as big as Macro but there is no charge to enter.=20

  5. Macro=20 SuperStore. Between Kuta & Sanur on left. A sort of a local bulk = store.=20 Rp5,000 entrance fee. No children allowed. Multi packs of wide variety = of=20 goods very cheap but allow for 10% tax and cost of bags at the check = out. Eg.=20 Sharp Rice Cooker A$28. Most consumable goods are in bulk or largest = packets.=20 If you don=92t buy in bulk the prices are about the same as in the = more popular=20 department stores such as Matahari=92s. A crate of 16 large beer is = just over=20 Rp100,000 and the crate has a deposit of Rp30,000 is cheap being about = Aus$1.60 a bottle. If you don=92t want to take your crate and bottles = back give=20 it to your driver or the person who cleans your room. 24 x 600 ml of = water for=20 less than Rp25.000. Chupa Chups (a candy ball on a short stick) are = about=20 Rp40,000 for a 100 pack; about Aus 8-10 cents each. The copy-cat = Starburst=20 lollypops are a bit cheaper but generally not to the liking of either = the=20 Balinese or me after the real thing. If you=92re going to an orphanage = or a=20 school this is a great place to stock up on a dozen tubes of tooth = paste and=20 100 tooth brushes. A carton of soaps and shampoo, feminine toiletries = (yes,=20 the young Balinese girls do use them if they can get them =96 if not - = - -?) etc=20 etc.
    *  There are three Matahari stores in Bali. Kuta, = Denpasar and=20 Bali Mall Galeria near the roundabout. There was a fourth in Jl Legian = but it=20 closed about 2001.

  6. Bintang=20 Supermarket on the main road in Seminyak is quite large and well=20 stocked.

  7. There is a Hardy's store = at Tabanan,=20 or actually on the by-pass road around Tabanan, a few hundred metres = on the=20 right from the start. It is huge and recommended by serious local = shoppers=20 despite the distance from the tourist areas. Have a look in if you're = passing=20 through.

  8. The SuperNova department = store on Jl=20 Raya Kuta in Legian is a bit of a surprise in many ways. The range of=20 cosmetics, for example, is not large but if you find what you're = looking for=20 they're incredibly cheap. In '06 I came across an unexpected = source=20 of maps in Bali, on the first floor of the store. If you want a valued = gift=20 for a school that's a bit different get a topographical one of = 'Provinsi Bali'=20 at 1:150,000 scale showing roads, towns, ports, rivers, lakes and = provincial=20 borders for only Rp20,450 or Aus$3.00 approx. How cheap can a = reasonable=20 quality wall map get? They also had similar maps of Indonesia, = Australia and=20 the world. Also on the first floor are stationery and paper items that = I have=20 seen nowhere else at similarly good prices.

  9. The new ('07) Carrefour is = a French=20 chain and a remarkable place to see. At least one local says most = things are=20 cheaper elsewhere but obviously many tourists are not convinced = yet.=20

  10. There is=20 a One Dollar Shop in Kuta at the end of Bakungsari street, opposite = the pet=20 shop and next to Super Nova department store. An amazing range of = goods all=20 priced at Rp5,000. Jl Raya Legian No 135, Kuta-Legian. There is also = one in=20 the Ramayana in Denpasar. Here items are either Rp5,000 or Rp10,000. = Another=20 is part of Hardy's super store in Singaraja up north. =

  11. Locals=20 in Seminyak and Legian often prefer the Alfa Supermarket on Jl = Imam=20 Bonjol, Denpasar. In Pasar Sanglah. Ask any decent taxi driver. Very = large=20 like the Makro but it=92s not necessary to buy in bulk = here.

  12. Many clothing 'names' have = outlets=20 that sell seconds which are often just excess = stock. One=20 is Amimale at 82 Jl Raya Kuta. Ph 757 015 or 783 135 and from August = '08 also=20 on Jl Raya Legian on the same side as the Bintang Supermarket but a = bit up=20 towards Seminyak.

  13. For=20 electrical appliances and equipment try UD Kartika Elektronic, Jl = Blambangan=20 No 6, Kuta. Ph 754 658. Not far from the Supernova Dept = Store.=20

  14. Hairdressing scissors and similar equipment. = Try Fortuna=20 opposite Tragia Department store in Denpasar. A surprising range and = good to=20 professional quality.
    Also Hair Dressing Supplies, Jl By Pass = Ngurah Rai=20 No8, Tuban. It's within walking distance of the Bali Galeria. 5" = Jaguar=20 scissors Aus$28.

  15. Almost=20 opposite (about 1 Km ?) Macro Superstore on the Sanur By Pass road (on = the=20 Kuta side of the turn-off to Benoa Harbour) is a wine=20 shop ('Indowines'?) that sells wine made from Western Australian = grape=20 juice for Rp85,000, $15, per bottle. NOT TO BE MISSED! It has a large = bottle=20 at the front of the shop. Tourists welcome for a tasting. They will = deliver to=20 nearby hotels =96 (0361) 726 883, Fax (0361) 726 884. Also available = at Matahari=20 store in Kuta for Rp125,000, which makes it worth a 5 min taxi ride to = get=20 your supplies from the winery. French wines are often cheaper that = Australian=20 ones. See =91Drinking =96 safely=92 just below or via the link = in the General=20 section above, and also =91Eating =96 safely & enjoyably=92 just = below or via=20 the link above.
    * Another nearby is Pembangunan Balidwepa Mandiri = opposite=20 Bali Kopi on the Bypass road at number 546, Sanur. Ph 284 122; e-mail = pbm@indo.net.id. Wines from around = the world=20 for less than Rp200,000 including reputable Aussie and French wines as = well as=20 casks. Spirits are cheaper than Duty Free I'm told!!
    * The cheapest = wine=20 available in Bali is locally made Indico Wines for about Rp 42,000. = Hatten=20 Wines, also local, are a bit dearer and a bit more palatable but not = to=20 everyone=92s taste. We can recommend their slightly sweet 'Alexandria' = white=20 wine which won a medal at the London Wine and Spirits Exhibition. = Their Bali=20 Hatten Sparkling has also some minor gongs and is quite passable. Easy = to get=20 in Ubud but you need to ask around a bit in the south or give Hattens = a call=20 for sources.
    * Indowines, Raya Sunset Road No. 166 sells Chilean = champagne=20 for about Aus$25 which is quite good. Also stock other good wines. Ph = +62 361=20 756 781.
    * Bali Deli also stocks wine, some of which is quite good = but=20 beware of flagon wines that may have spent weeks in an oven-like = container=20 before being cleared by Customs. I have been told they will willingly = exchange=20 stuff you're not happy with. They open at 11 am but are closed on = Tuesdays=20 (April '07).
    * Pit Stop     on the=20 beach road next to the Karma Sutra night club is also a good wine = source.
    *=20 In '07 there were wine outlets at Bali Jaya Supermarket in Kuta, about = 50=20 strides from Bemo Corner, Nirmala Supermarket on Jl Uluwatu II in = Jimbaran and=20 Angusan, Pepito Supermarket in Tuban and the Bintang Supermarket in=20 Seminyak.
    * If you're out on the By Pass Road about 150 metres = before Makro=20 try PT Bali Surya Utama (Ph (0361) 723 014) where single bottles or = cases are=20 well priced. Jacobs Creek Rp 80,000 (Aus$11) or Rp100,000 for their = bubbly=20 (Aus$14), Jim Beam Rp120,000 (Aus$16.75).
    * On the beach road = ('pantai')=20 between Seminyak and Kuta you will find the Bottle Shop. You'll find = it south=20 of Padma and about 200 paces further south from Melasti St a bit past = the=20 Circle K. 700 ml bottles of spirits for Rp130,000 ($14.50 app) Less = than Duty=20 Free. If you come to a vacant food court that is only open in the = evenings you=20 have passed it.

  16. Dijon=20 Food Specialties store is also near this roundabout; or go left from = Bemo=20 Corner near Matahari in Kuta =96 over the bridge and right after the = petrol=20 station =96 about 120 paces on your left from this direction. It = stocks many=20 items that you would be familiar with from home and Euro-deli lines. = Kuta=20 Poleng Mall, Blok A1-A2, Jl Setiabudhi, Kuta. Ph (0361) 759-636 or = 759-638.=20 E-mail dijonfs@indosat.net.id. Web=20 site at http://www.dijon-bali.com/.=20

  17. Alfa=20 Supermart similar to Macro. On Jl Imam Bonjol just out of Kuta going = towards=20 Denpasar, 2-3 km. Have a look at the rice cookers and warmers used by = the=20 world=92s experts on rice. 220 volts but work OK on Ozzie 240v. There = is no=20 alcohol sold now (or at Tiara Grossir) as the owners are=20 Islamic.

  18. The small mini mart in Jl = Padma not=20 far from the corner of Jl Padma Utara got some bad press about prices = and=20 funny addition in '05.
    The nearby Loji Supermarket or the Bintang = on Jl=20 Legian are probably safer places.

  19. Matahari. In Kuta Square and near McDonalds at = No 117 Jl=20 Raya Legian in Legian St. Also classy new DFS Mal Galleria, Simpansura = St with=20 many other shops near the roundabout with the chariot statue just out = of Kuta=20 =96 NOT Nusa Dua. Also Denpasar. White taxis operate here and need = firm=20 persuasion to put the meter on.

  20. Ramayana. Denpasar. Recommended hairdresser on = top, Johnie=20 Andreas. Foot =91reflexi" Rp15,000 hair cream bath = Rp25,000.=20 Good when you think you=92re shopped out.
    There is also = a=20 recommended hairdressing shop , including straightening that tropic = frizz, at=20 the Secret Garden. Have a look at www.secretgarden-bali.com/= . There=20 is an e-mail link where you can make a booking.
    Other recommended=20 hairdressers are;
    Celebes in Legian (see also the Legian District = section)=20 do hair straightening amongst the other more normal treatments. Cut = and 8=20 foils for Rp82,000 (Aus$12 app.) mid '06.
    Kudas in Jl Legian near = Rum=20 Jungle Road - a colourful shop;
    Cristy's Salon in the lane behind = Etnik=20 Cafe on Jl Legian - Ph 766 739 - does not look flash but the results = are=20 great;
    Eva Salon near Bemo Corner at the end of Jl Legian - great = facials=20 too - ask for Sheryl;
    At the Secret Garden on Jl Melasti near the = entrance=20 to the Kuta Lagoon Resort and the traffic lights on Jl Melasti; =
    Across the=20 road from the back entrance to the Jayakarta in Legian, in the street = that=20 runs parallel to the beach - 'meticulous cut'; 
    De Luzern at = Istana=20 Kuta Galeria near Tiara Dewata and Ace Hardware. Yoyo for cutting and = Jimmy=20 for colour.
    Celebes Spa and Beauty, Jl Padma Utara No3 - off Jl = Padma. next=20 to the Garden View in Legian. Ask for Poppy or e-mail poppysudibyo2000@yahoo.com= .=20 Foils, blow wave, blonding etc etc for Rp198.000. Ph 1361 756 420 or = 081 3385=20 126 55; Almost next door to GVC, opposite Loji Supermarket and by a = Kodak=20 money changer. Hairdressing ground floor and massage first = floor;
    Melasti=20 Spa in Jl Padma Utara, Legian. Good cuts, colour and spa treatments = and=20 wonderful decor.

  21. Tragia.=20 Diagonally opposite Ramayana, about 400 meters from the exit near = Pizza Hut.=20

  22. Tiara=20 Dewata =96 has a section for collectors of mint and used stamps = and notes,=20 including. Japanese Occupation currency. Cheap children=92s clothing. = Larger=20 version of Alpha (se above.) Also has bumper cars for the kids = amusement (and=20 the dads too?) Always seems to us to be somehow different from the = usual=20 supermarket/department stores which makes it interesting to stroll = through.=20 Have a look at their developing ('07) web site at  = http://www.tiara-dewata.com/ = . Jl May=20 Jend Sutayo 55, Denpasar. (62 361) 235 733.

  23. Tiara=20 Grosir.

  24. The new Centro Kartika = Plaza shopping=20 centre opened late in '04. It's huge with many different shops. = Opening=20 specials were bargains but this may not last for too long. It's huge - = you=20 can't miss it on the seaward side of Jl Kartika Plaza.

  25. For Balinese paintings = that are=20 perhaps a bit more original than many try a shop in Jl Legian Kuta = between=20 Paddies nightclub and Bemo Corner. Reasonable prices to start with but = you can=20 still bargain.

  26. The=20 Geneva Handicraft Centre in Kerobokan is establishing a good = reputation (=9204).=20 It=92s at No100 Jl Raya Kerobokan, over the top of the Geneva = furniture store.=20 Ph 62 361 733 571. geneva_handicraft@hotmail.c= om.=20

  27. There are factories making = real cane=20 and synthetic cane furniture around the back streets of Kerbokan we = believe.=20 Real cane furniture is a feature of shopping in Lombok, the next = island to the=20 east of Bali.

  28. There is=20 a factory outlet for brand-name clothes called Big Buy Bakungsari. = There is on=20 Jl Bakungsari Noss Kuta and at Big Buy, Kuta Centre. =

  29. Need cossies? Hard=20 to fit? Try Climax shop in a small lane off Jl Legian half way between = Poppies=20 II and Melasti street on the beach side. If you come to Bank Negara = Indonesia=20 you've gone past it. Standard sizes and made to measure. Their = material or=20 yours. mailto:climaxghs@yahoo.com. http://www.climaxswimwear.com/. Jl=20 Legian 363, Kelod Kuta. Ask for Wayan (who else, its Bali after all). = Cost=20 Rp80,000 with your own material for one piece. Two pairs for $20 using = their=20 own material. Their range is a bit limited.
    ** Also BALI KAYA, Jl = Sarinade=20 #2, (off Jl Dyhanapura), Seminyak, Kuta 80361. E-mail mailto:bali0kaya@bigfoot.com. = Website=20 http://www.bali_kaya.com/. =

    ** Visit Alta Rica or Alta = Moda fabric=20 shop in the Kuta Istana Galleria shopping centre for a range of = lycra's and=20 other stuff. Less than Rp50,000 for enough for one swim suit. =

  30. If you=20 are not sure of the clothing sizes that = are use in=20 Bali try www.onlineconversion.com/ = or www.coasts= hop.com.au/tourist/clothes_sizes.htm=20 .

  31. Larger=20 sizes up to 4XL are available in Ketut's shop in Garlic Lane, = otherwise=20 known as Sahadewa Street in Legian.
    Also Seashell Shop, Jl Raya = Kuta No37,=20 BR Abianbase. 'seashellgirl' on the web. Sizes up to 4XL.
    Also shop = opposite The Pub'
    Jacques Ruc also has large sizes. Jl Raya = Seminyak=20 No54-56, past the Bintang Supermarket and on the opposite side, set = back a bit=20 from the footpath. Ph(+62)61-72 734. 'Like a Double Bay boutique'. = Fixed=20 prices.
    "Chitra". In Jl Legian No439. Ph 762 471. Past Melasti = street=20 towards Seminyak.
    Large shoes at Jocelyn's shop opposite Matahari = in=20 Kuta.

  32. For shoe size conversions  = try  http://www.i18nguy.com/l1= 0n/shoes.html=20 .

  33. For shoes try R2U ('Ready to Use'), have mover from No5 = Padma Utara in=20 early '08. It can only be because they needed more space to hold their = stock!=20 They are now at Kamponeng Bali, Jl Merta Nadi No77X, Kuta. Phone Lely=20 Tjandrawati on 081 138 5079 or the shop at (0361) 240 991. Be warned = that=20 Lely's phone English is not too good but she is OK face to face. = 'Packed to=20 the ceiling with shoes'. Same with handbags next door, and ask to see = the=20 beaded shawls too. Next door to the old shop in Padma Utara is an = authorised=20 Swarovski crystal shop.

  34. CHILDREN=92S FOOD =96 Many familiar brands are available in = most tourist=20 centres but to make sure of a peaceful start to your holiday take 1 or = 2 days=20 supply of familiar food with you and slowly wean baby on to more = readily=20 available products if necessary. Nappies, powder etc are readily = available but=20 probably not much cheaper than home prices as many are imported. 2 for = 2 and=20 free giveaways are often offered. Milton tablets, a sterilising = container and=20 a bottle brush might be worth the space when you are packing however. = Remember=20 not to use the reticulated water in Bali for anything except careful = washing.=20
    Several brands of nappies are available. Mamma Poko got the thumbs = up from=20 one mum in '06. The weight/size information on the pack  seems=20 correct

  35. Baby=20 sitting services are provided by many of the larger hotels but if = you're=20 does not the services of Casey, who lives in Sanur but works also in = the=20 Kuta/Legian areas has been recommended by Forumites who have use her = services.=20 A 42 year old single mum of two now teenage boys, she knows the ropes. = Ph 081=20 337 290 491.

  36. CHILDREN=92S CLOTHES -
    Indigo Kids in = Legian-Kuta.
    Matahari=92s=20 Department Store.
    Kuta Kidz near Bemo Corner, Kuta. They also have = a=20 seconds shop towards Seminyak.
    At a little shop next to an ATM that = proved=20 a godsend in the main street through Kediri, a small town near = Tabanan, there=20 is Maya Gogo, rated the best and cheapest in all Bali if you're out = that=20 way.
    There are fairy shops in Bali where you can get all of the = current=20 costumes as well as the old favourites. One is about 300 metres from = the=20 MacDonalds entry to Poppies I from the beach end, on the left by a=20 hairdressers and across the lane from a Mini Mart.  Another = called Swells=20 is in Jl Melasti and a third is on the second dogleg corner of Jl = Padma Utara=20 in Legian. Another is at No 54 Jl Double Six in = Legian/Seminyak.
    'Stroberi'=20 (Strawberry) is a little teenagers shop on the Bali Mall Baleria. = Funky=20 accessories that these kidz love. It's on the right as you go to the=20 supermarket.

  37. Laundry. Getting=20 your clothes clean and pressed is easy with most hotels having a good = service.=20 There are also many (cheaper but still good to very good) laundries on = the=20 streets. 'So Clean' are developing a small chain across the island and = have=20 the recommendation of ex-pats living on the island. Look for the 'So = Clean'=20 signs in your local district. Some travellers even get all of their = clothes=20 both new and used, cleaned before they leave. Their smell of Bali = brings back=20 memories for weeks afterwards at home. Many laundries will pick up and = deliver=20 too. Some prices ('07) - Business Shirt washed and pressed (folded or = on your=20 hanger) Rp1,700 (about 20 cents Aus); Dress as above Rp2,300; = Bras/panties=20 Rp1,000; Jacket Rp3,000 etc.

  38. HAND BAGS. Most of=20 the big stores carry the standard lines, often at great discounts. A = small=20 store that dares to be different is Top Ten Branded in Melasti Street = near the=20 Legian Beach Hotel, also in Jl Padma on the left a little past the = junction=20 with Padma Utara.
    Tommy in Kuta Square also has A grade bags from = the well=20 known makers.

  39. Super=20 Nova. Kuta. Good internet room on top. Reports in '06 said that they = had the=20 cheapest range of cosmetics in Bali.

  40.  Arum Agung. Jl Danau Tamblingan not too far from = the Hyatt=20 in Sanur.

  41. Sarina=92s=20 on the By Pass Road near the Raddison Hotel.

  42. Hero=92s.=20 On the left about half way between Tuban and Denpasar. Fruit & = Veg. Time=20 Zone. Stationery.

  43. If=20 you=92re shopping for clothes it=92s not a bad idea to wear a pair of = bathers=20 rather than normal underclothes. This makes changing easier and can = also free=20 you from the change room queue if you can duck behind a rack.=20

  44. Stock=20 House, several, Jl Raya Kuta 100 M from petrol station. Export quality = including larger sizes.

  45. Surf=20 Gear factory outlet. Jl Ngurah Rai By Pass near the big statue, on = opposite=20 side of road about 400 m past Bali Mall and Galleria. Ph 766 646. Rip = Curl=20 button collared shirts Rp 122,000 =96 Volcon dress Rp90,000 =96 Rip = Curl dresses=20 Rp70-150,000 =96 men=92s T=92s from Rp80,000 =96 bikinis Rp122,000. =

  46. Sarong=20 Warehouses, Jl 66, off Jl Raya Legian, it goes to the beach where you = can get=20 a cold drink from Benny=92s before going back for all of those things = you=20 decided not to buy on your way down first time. Fixed prices from = Rp10,000.=20 Different patterns in each shop.

  47. Geneva=20 Handicrafts and Furniture =96 Jl Raya Legian. Wholesale = prices.=20

  48. =91Baliopoly=92, local board game like = =91Monopoly=92. Rp200,000.=20 A$40. - Cheapest delivered by makers =96 732 617 baliopoly@yahoo.com =20 www.baliopoly.webkita.com. Don=92t expect great quality after the = first edition.=20 In fact, can you get it at all now or has production ended? In 2005 = this=20 seemed to be the situation and the only options now will probably be = to find a=20 second hand set although the following was posted by 'Cooper' in late=20 August;  'We were in Bali in July/August and I saw = it at=20 Gramedia in the Discovery mall in Kuta. It was as you walk in, go = straight=20 ahead to the sporting section, and it was in front of the desk where = you buy=20 the tennis rackets and squash rackets. There would have been at least = 10 games=20 if not more. And they were about $25 AUD. Also seen Sept '05 in the = Centro=20 Store in Discovery Mall. It's on the first floor in the sports section = near=20 the book shop overlooking Jl Kartika Plaza. Plain and magnetic sets = available.=20 Further reports of availability in mid '07.

  49. Business=20 Cards =96 Colourful plastic =96 Aus$5/100 =96 Phone Ketut 082 361 = 3573. Also=20 stickers, labels, T-shirts. I have to say that I find plastic cards a = pain in=20 the you-know-what because you can't write on them, which is highly = desirable=20 when, 12 months later, you want a note of who and what and why you got = it.

  50. Spa=20 products are available from The Spa Factory in Jimbaran on Jl Toya = ring.

  51. Your=20 friendly shopkeeper will politely ask you where you are staying. Do = not=20 confess to staying anywhere in Nusa Dua as this is the signal to = extract the=20 highest price from a rich tourist.

  52. Gold prices. If you have a home price per = ounce=20 dividing this by 30.1034 will give you the price per gram. 24 ct. Bali = gold is=20 usually 22 ct. but the above calculation will be close enough to give = you a=20 good idea of comparative prices. In March '05 the price was about = Aus$10/gram.=20 If your purchases are weighed beware of the weight of cheap stones = being=20 included in the weight and charged at gold prices. Better quality = stones can=20 be purchased and put into your jewellery for the cost of the stone and = app=20 Rp25,000 fitting charge. Price varies daily. It was Rp70,000/gram = April =9201=20 and Rp70,000 again in late =9202, but varied greatly in between. 18 ct = (stamped=20 =9170%=92, which is actually 16.9 ct.) is also available and may be = preferable in=20 some items where there is a risk of greater wear that the softer 22 = ct. will=20 not stand for long. You=92ll pay about 1/3 of the western prices for = similar=20 items. Most of the gold dealers are Chinese or Arab. Jl Hasanuddin in = Denpasar=20 is generally regarded as the =91gold street=92 in Bali. =

  53. Superior=20 quality jewellery =96 Mayang Bali store is on = an acute=20 corner between Kuta markets and the =91back=92 entrance to Matahari = Department=20 store.
     * If you're really into internationally classy = jewellery you=20 must visit the Runa Museum and Gallery at Banjar Abiansemal, = Lodtunduh, Ubud.=20 Its not far off the main road into Ubud and a question or two by your = driver=20 if you give him this address will see you at the serene entrance to an = eye-popping display of commissioned works and work for sale. Ph = (62-361)980=20 710. E-mail runa@elga.net.id = or runa_bali@hotmail.com. = There's a=20 Rp10,000 entry charge but if you buck at this then you're not really=20 serious.
    * To turn your personal designs into reality try Perama = Dewata=20 Gems and Jewellery at 6 Kalimantan Road, Denpasar (03161 242 334 or = 081 933=20 091 946. The owner is Bruhan who speaks excellent English. Inexpensive = and=20 reliable. 
    * Also Putu Artana, in the village of Anturan near = Lovina=20 in the north. He is a Master Craftsman who makes unique pieces and = will make=20 jewellery to your design in gold or silver.
    * In '06 we found = Solomon=20 Silver II in Jl Werkudara in Legian, not far from the Flying Piano = Restaurant=20 and Yutz's place, either of which will feed you delightfully while you = gloat=20 over your purchases. Do not confuse the quality of the silver = available here=20 with that you can get more cheaply at street stalls. A little dearer = but your=20 girlfriend will know the difference in quality and workmanship. If you = buy=20 enough you will automatically get business prices!
    * Most outlets = in Celuk=20 (the so called 'silver village') are for tourist with tourist prices = but SSS=20 Silver and UC Silver are exceptions. The former  have a wide = selection=20 although nothing really unique but the prices are very good. UC Silver = (great=20 toilets) has great jewellery of different designs and top quality. = Good value=20 but this does not mean cheap.
    * Also Bujangga Silver, Jl Tuban on = way to=20 airport, on right next to ANA restaurant.
    * Purnama Silver = Jewellery at=20 Lodtundah Ubud. Visit http://www.purnama-sari.com/.* =20 Also in Ubud try Studio Perak and Hari Ini Silver. Nice pieces = available at=20 reasonable prices.
    * Made Murjani (fortuna@denpasar.wasant= ara.net.id)=20 manufactures jewellery in a small factory and exports, mainly to the = US. She=20 will do custom work also. A display of the work can be seen at her = home in=20 Bedulu.
    * There is a group of crafts people at the Bandem Community = of=20 Silversmiths in Singapadu, just north of the Bird and Reptile Parks. = Look for=20 the sign on the main road. They have jewellery and beads.  =
    *=20 Perama Dewata, Jl Padanggalk No 11/4, Denpasar (Ph 288 398) has=20 recommendations as an honest jewellery sales and repair place with = cheaper=20 prices than 'Gold Street', Jl Hasanuddin.
    * Putra Silver is in the = village=20 of Batubulan on the way to Ubud. A 2 story, white building on the = right hand=20 side. Good prices.
    * U C Silver is a very large manufacturer in the = village=20 of Batu Bulan. Big exporters with many fine designs.
    * Putu Yasa in = Jl=20 Melasti almost opposite Gosha's Restaurant. High quality, helpful and=20 reliable.
    * Bintang Silver. Jl Padma Utara on the right going = towards Rum=20 Jungle Road. Fixed price and easy to deal with.
    * Jewellery repairs can be reliably done at = many=20 places including Mayang Bali (see above) where you can watch the = jewellers at=20 work and keep an eye on your stones. It is also done by jewellers in = the gold shops near the markets in Hasanudin = street in=20 Denpasar. One recommended is Permata Dewata, 6 Kalimantan Road, = Denpasar. Ph=20 (0361) 242 334. Bruhan is the owner and his English is excellent. =
    * Also=20 in the jewellery shop in the Balihai Resort building in Tuban at the = end of Jl=20 Wana Segara and in the Kuta Paradiso Hotel.
    * An honest jeweller = who is=20 making something smaller to fit will give you the gold or whatever = that he has=20 taken out. It does not burn up when it's removed.
    ** Highly=20 recommended in '07 is Audrey Veronika who was a jeweller with another = company=20 until it changed hands and the new policies re dealing with tourists = jewellery=20 did not suit her standards. She has branched out on her own as Bali = Gold=20 Jewellery in the foyer of the Kuta Paradiso Hotel on Kartika Plaza = street in=20 Tuban. Have a look at http://www.baligoldjewelry.com/<= /A> .=20 Phone +62.361.761414 ext 7809 or Mobiles +62.81.139 7889 or = +62.361.797 1855;=20 e-mail mailto:Audrey@baligoldjeweler= y.com.=20 Mention Leonie from the Bali Travel Forum for especially dedicated = business.=20 New pieces to your design or stock items and top quality repairs or=20 re-modelling.
    * Permata Dewata Gems and Jewellery is at No6, = Kalimantan=20 Road, Denpasar. Ph (0361) 242 334 or 081 2387 5252.  Bruhan is = the=20 craftsman who will supply, make or re-make anything in jewellery. = Quality and=20 integrity at low prices.
    * Nyoman Sanggra is a gold and silver = smith at=20 Selat Apuan Singapadu in Gianyar. It will be easiest if you have an = Indonesian=20 speaker with you if one sided conversations around a calculator bother = you.=20 The work is of very high quality.
    * If a group intends to buy in = quantity=20 at least 1 million rupiah (about Aus$150) try Gede at igedeparta_bagus@hotmail.com= or=20 phone him on +62 81 558 787 269. He will bring an enormous selection = to your=20 hotel room for your selection. Ask for men's or women's jewellery or a = mixture=20 of both. It is of high quality and very cheap when bought in large in=20 quantity.
    * Perlu Jewellery on Jl Laksmana No44A (opposite = Cornerstore) has=20 been describes as a place for silver jewellery you WILL wear and not = look as=20 though you've just been to Bali.

  54. A jewellery making course = is run at=20 Studio Perak on Jl Hanoman in Ubud, about 100 paces down from Raya=20 Ubud.

  55. =91Face To=20 Face Engraving=92. Have a look at www.facetoface-bali.com= /index.htm=20 . They engrave your photos onto gold, silver brooches, bracelets, = lockets etc.=20 Ramayana, Bali Mall, Jl Diponegoro Denpasar, Floor 1, south entrance. = Ph 0817=20 345 744.

  56. WOODEN WARE. Customs in your home country will = probably=20 want to look very closely at all wooden stuff that you want to bring = home from=20 Bali. When you buy stuff it=92s a good idea to give it a few sharp = taps on a=20 solid surface and look closely to see if any fine dust falls out that = might=20 indicate a borer infestation. Do this for bamboo furniture as wall as = other=20 wood; it=92s no fun to get it home and find that your house is = suddenly infested=20 with an exotic pest. Check the surfaces, including the bottom and = under any=20 legs that might have been in contact with the ground, for small holes = which=20 might either be open or might have been plugged with dust or glued-in=20 plugs.
    Customs seem to appreciate it if you put all your small = wooden ware=20 in one bag so that their job is a little easier. We use a cloth bag = with a=20 draw string in the neck. It=92s easy to carry over and to bring back. = If you=20 find an infestation in some small article you could try putting it = into a=20 suitable size plastic bag and sealing it up with a dose of Diazinon = (commonly=20 found as an ingredient in pet washes) or Lorsban from garden = supplies.
    Top=20 quality wooden things are quite expensive, not at all like the cheap = market=20 goods. Some of the best is available at the Tliem Gallery in Mas, a = village=20 north of Seminyak. It is a short walk north of the Tantra Gallery, = also a=20 place to buy quality art works in wood. Small pieces are really not = expensive=20 but the big works are although they are excellent value if you want to = collect=20 quality pieces. Even if you=92re not prepared to pay the prices asked = they are=20 worth a visit to get an idea of how the quality and the prices vary. = We also=20 find that Mayang Bali in Kuta between Matahari and the art markets = have=20 excellent stuff.
    Much of the wood products purchased in Bali are = made from=20 timber that is only partly dried (if at all) and when taken home to = less=20 tropical climes will dry out somewhat and warp, shrink, bend or split. = Be=20 prepared for this and don't blame the workers.

  57. Duty = Free=20 allowances into Australia are now goods to the value of A$900 (half = for those=20 under 18 years),2.25 litres of alcohol for over 18's only, 250 = cigarettes or=20 250gm tobacco. If you are over in any one of these categories = you will=20 be charged duty on ALL of your possessions in that = category.  Note=20 that these allowances do NOT apply to stuff you might want to take = into=20 Indonesia where the allowances are less, only 1 litre of alcohol for=20 example.

  58. Customs=20 will not allow Banana products into Oz as they are very dangerous. = Similarly=20 raw hide (like dog chews) that is sometimes used in craft products and = to=20 encase candles etc. Water hyacinth is another product that will set = off alarm=20 bells with Customs. If they see one piece of it they will turn you = upside down=20 looking for any more - or anything else. It is a pale brown grass-like = strand=20 often woven into table runners, place mats, cushion covers etc. If you = press=20 on it with your finger nail it is soft, even when dry. Any of these=20 things  will cost you from $60 to have irradiated if you really = want to=20 keep them!!!
    Other products which are prohibited imports from Bali to Australia (and = other=20 countries probably have similar restrictions/web pages) can be = reviewed at http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page.cfm?area_id=3D5&nav-id=3D292= =20 .

  59. Stone=20 carvings are very common in Bali and add an atmosphere to your = garden at=20 home. Try the carving village of Batubulan, a few kilometres towards=20 Gianyar  north of Ubud and about 30 minutes from Seminyak, or 40 = from=20 Kuta. Drive slowly up the road looking at the wares and them get out = and walk=20 downhill to do your shopping. Your driver can follow you in the car = and pick=20 up your goods so you wont have the load to carry. Some shoppers say = that the=20 village of Singapadu, just off the main road at Batubulan, is even = better.=20 There is spectacular scenery around here also.

  60. Ask someone to point out a = tree of=20 Tupaka flowers. The wonderful perfume will attract you because it will = be=20 familiar but identifying it is elusive.
    Want flowers=20 for a gift? Strangely they are not easy to find in the land of a = thousand=20 flowers but if you're in Bedugul there will be a good selection.
    * = If=20 you're not in Bedugul try Heliconia shop in Seminyak, Jl Raya = Seminyak. Ph=20 (62-361) 732 700. The shop is next to a large gallery on the right = hand side=20 as you go up north. Highly recommended. They will deliver but you = might need=20 to say that its for a room if you order sight unseen. One order at a = common=20 Aussie price was so large that it had to be left in the hotel = foyer.
    * Just=20 out of Sanur, on the road to Denpasar there are many gardens including = orchid=20 growers where you can buy the ultimate flower, Anggrek, or orchids. = The Bali=20 Orchid Gardens regrettably do not now sell cut flowers ('05). Or do = they? In=20 '06 there was a post that said they had started again. Anyway its = worth a trip=20 to see the variety.
    * Pepitos Supermarket in Tuban, towards the = airport end=20 of town always has some nice arrangements in a flower cooler.
    * = Rosa=20 Flowers Ph 081 558 009 350.
    * In Sanur try Tropicana which is = opposite=20 Hardy's Supermart and use all tropical flowers.
    * At the end of Jl = Seminyak=20 turn sharpish left into Jl Oberoi. There is a good florist almost at = the=20 intersection. In '07 Tuberose were Rp400 a stem. There are lots of = exotic=20 blooms to choose from and they will make up to your wishes and deliver = for=20 you.

  61. BEADS =96 in June of '06 we were staggered by the = number of bead=20 outlets that had blossomed since our previous visit only 6 months = before. Jl=20 Werkudara is only a short, sort of backwater street in Legian but here = alone I=20 counted 17 shops offering beads in bulk, matched strings or made up = into=20 jewellery and 'bling'.
    * A warehouse for beads and related items = in Jl=20 Werkudara is Mandans Mas. Ph (62 361) 633 633. http://www.mandanamas.com/. =
    * Toko=20 Central is on a prominent corner in Kuta and I bet you've seen it a = dozen=20 times and never realised what an amazing place it really is. Even if = you're=20 not into beads and other sewing things you'll be stunned by the sheer = size,=20 variety and colour of their shop stock and the warehouse at the other = end of=20 the row of shops. This is where the locals shop and you'll get the = same prices=20 - no bargaining! Huge variety. 4Kg A$40. 100 grams for as little as = Rp2,000.=20 Lucky Chinese brass coins and tokens as well as beads and threads and = sewing=20 equipment. From Jl Legian turn left at Bemo Corner and go on until you = cross=20 the river bridge. The road bends to the left and there is a group of = shops=20 right on the corner on the right with a sign, =91Toko Central=92. Its = only about=20 half a kilometre from Bemo Corner. Their English is not too good but = point or=20 self-select and they write the price down form you. Be patient. No = silver=20 beads but lots of glazed, seed and plastic ones. A variety of other = stocks -=20 woven cotton necklace threads, glues, sequins, buttons, ribbons, = patches,=20 cloth flowers, feathers etc. also. INCREDIBLE.
    [The address, Jl = Raya Kuta=20 No 105 C-D, Kuta. Ph 764 323, is for either Toko Central or Bujangga = Silver.=20 I=92d be pleased if someone could confirm which it is.]
    * Olivias = is in Jl=20 Sahadewa (between Melasti and Padma) towards the Melasti end on the = western=20 side. Smaller than Toko Central but they have tubular beads which = Central do=20 not. This is also a great shopping street with a market on the corner = and=20 further down there are DVD=92s, leather, shoes and good = restaurants.
    *=20 Bujangga Silver on Jl Raya Tuban between the airport and Kuta has = silver beads=20 and pendants that are rare. Rp3,000/gram.
    * Toko Mawar might be an = offshoot of Toko Central. Its on Jl Imam Bonjol in Denpasar.
    * = Behind=20 Queen's Tandoor Indian Restaurant, across the road from Made's Warung = in=20 Legian, is a bead shop in a house. Ask the Security guy to show you. = May be=20 better than Toko Central.
    * Silver beads are made and sold at a = small shop=20 in Bedroom Mukti, Singapadu, Sukawati. Ni Wayan Supartiwi, who does = not have a=20 good command of English, (so patience is needed,) owns the shop. A = good local=20 driver will get you there without worries. The phone number is 0361 = 294 232,=20 but unless you have a good command of Bahasa Indonesia get your hotel = clerk to=20 phone for you. Prices are in the range of Rp2,500 / gram.
    * You can = also=20 try the Bandem Community of Silversmiths, Bedroom Sengguan Singapuda = in=20 Sukawati (0361 298 688 (bandemsilver@dps.centrin.= net.id)=20 or Koming Ayu, I Nyoman Rupadana, Jl Raya Celuk Sukawati, Gianyar, = 0361 298=20 302, rupanada@indo.net.id.
    * Solomon Silver II is in Jl Werkudara, = Legian,=20 just around from Jl Padma Utara. If you buy enough you are given = business=20 prices.
    There is (was) a stall on the second level of the old = Denpasar=20 markets. It has probably moved to the new ones.
    * Buana Raya is = also in=20 Denpasar. A local cab driver could find it for you.
    * Bali Silver = Beads, http://bali-silver-beads.com/ = , Jl=20 Sidakarya, Perum. Calista Karya Indah A-10, Denpasar. Ph (62 812) 391=20 9977.
    * Vista Shop Jl Legian Kelod 386, Legian. By Circle K store. = Silver=20 beads.
    * A bead shop on Jl 66. It is on the right as you come from = Jl=20 Legian.
    * Happy Art Shop Ocean Beads is owned by Benny B and can be = found=20 at Jl Legian-Kuta-Bali No.426-Z. Ph/Fax (0361) 761 508, Mob 0381 3387 = 31204.=20 They have large size resin beads and others.    * Bintang Silver = Collection in Jl=20 Padma Utara, Legian. Near Puri Raja Hotel. Fixed price and cheap.
    * = Jl Pura=20 Bagus Taruna (once known as Rum Jungle Road) has a shop named Dani = Collection.=20 Beads, shells, silver, accessories. Good English.
    * There are = outlets along=20 Jl Padma Utara in Legian/Seminyak and two near the Bintang supermarket = on Jl=20 Legian. One of these stocks silver findings.
    * Bali Silver Beads = and=20 Jewellery Shop, Jl Gunung Sari A8, Padang Sambian Kaja, Denpasar. Ph = +62 361=20 744 2262. E-mail sales@bali-silver-beads.com.=20
    * Sanzik Shop is at Jl Sahadewa No17C, Legian. sanzik_shop@yahoo.com. More = beads than=20 you can shake a stick at!
    * Satria is across the road from the = Supernova=20 Department Store in the building with the green 'Shalom' sign on top. = Closed=20 Sundays. 250 grams for Rp7,500. Jl Raya Kuta No200X, Kuta. satria@satria-bali.com. http://www.satria-bali.com/. =20     They also have a store at Jl Gajah Mada No134 in Denpasar. Seed = beads=20 and sequins, bugle and acrylic beads, stone chips also.
    * Jl Double = Six in=20 Legian/Seminyak seems to be becoming the place to hunt for beads, = accessories=20 and craft supplies in many of the shops.
    * Ramayana have = Swarovski=20 crystals and fresh water pearls in a stall on the ground floor = near the=20 front entrance.
    * In Ubud there are several in Monkey Forest Road. = Try the=20 one right on the corner near the Monkey Forest for a few different=20 varieties.
    * The new (and expensive) fashion seems to be Pandora = Beads. Try=20 Perlu Jewellery, Jl Laksmana, Seminyak. Rp70-100,000=20 each.
        Also at Perlu in Jl Laksmana; muranto = glass and=20 ceramic.
        Also opposite Garden View Cottages on = Padma=20 Utara, Legian. Copies that have reportedly worn very little after much = wearing.
        Alsi Charlie Brown's stall on the path = facing=20 the beach at Sindhu Beach markets. You need to be a tough bargainer=20 here!

  62. Swarovski Crystals also at Almas Enterprises, = Ruko=20 Padma No6, Padma Utara in Legian, Ph (0361) 750 336. They are official = agents.=20 They also have pearls and will make up anything that you want.
    * = Irian Jaya=20 Tarigan, Jaya Central Pancing, Jl By Pass I Gusti Ngurah Rai No354C, = Kuta,=20 near the Tuban end of the road. Ph(0361) 766 598.
    * On the second = floor of=20 the Denpasar markets, on the handicraft side of the river towards the = back of=20 the building there is a range of beads available at 'local' = prices.
    * For=20 silver beads try Solomon Silver II, Jl Werkudara No522 J, Legian.
    * = UC=20 Beads is on the opposite side of the Bintang Supermarket in Seminyak. = It has=20 been said that you can get wholesale prices for total purchases over = Rp2=20 million, that's about Aus$300.
    * Use 'bead wholesalers Bali' as key = words=20 for a Google search.
    * Bali Beads in Celuk, just north of Denpasar, = also=20 has other jewellery at wholesale rates as well as silver = findings.
    * long=20 strings of glass beads are up to Rp15,000, decreasing for = quantities.
    *=20 Yasa Beads and Silversmiths, Br Cemenggaon, Celuk, Sukawati, Gianyar = is run by=20 Kadek Sudarsa who communicates fairly well in English. The phone = number is (62=20 361) 294 649. They specialise in silver beads and various findings = such as=20 catches. Their stock range is large and well made and they will also = make to=20 order. Prices are by the gram and thus depend on the current price of = silver.=20 Ask almost anywhere in Celuk and most shops will be able to direct you = as he=20 is probably their supplier. He also does mail orders.
    * Purpa = Silver on=20 Monkey Forest Road in Ubud. Also reliable money changer.
    * = Ubud=20 Beads has wonderful gemstone beads. Two shops in Monkey Forest Road = and one=20 also in Celuk. (They are closed on = Sundays I am=20 told.) Zillions of beads makes the hardest part choosing!
    * Ruby = Star is at=20 the end of Hasanuddin street (the gold sellers street) in Denpasar. = Crystals,=20 pearls, Sterling silver findings, gemstones by the bucket = load!
    BUTTONS =96=20 Try H. Shata Shop at 404 Jl Raya Legion near Jl Padma. Ph 758 = 538. Also=20 at 429 Jl Legian Tengah.
    SEQUINS =96 Try Jl Sulawesi, Denpasar. = The shops=20 are off Jl Hasanuddin near the markets. Quite often you can buy them = in bulk=20 by weight.

  63. CRAFT SUPPLIES: Toko have 3 outlets in = Bali;
    Toko=20 Central, 105 Jl Raya Kuta. Stone chips Rp7,000/strand, Cloisonn=E9 = Rp87,500 for=20 100 gm, findings Rp20,000/gross, wires Rp20,000 for 4mm D. Also stocks = findings and other craft items, glues, buttons etc.
    Toko Abadi, 65 = Jl Raya=20 Tuban
    Toko Kita 445 Jl Imam Bonjol, = Denpasar.
    Shalom, opposite=20 the Supernova in Tuban has craft supplies.

  64. For mirrors of all sizes, able to be shipped back home = in safety,=20 try Aman Shop, Jl Raya Seminyak No 38.

  65. Cloth and fabrics including single and = double=20 ikat and songket are available throughout Bali but usually the best = must be=20 discovered in out-of-the-way places. A good place to start is in the = gold=20 street of Denpasar near the markets, Jalan Hasanuddin. Any taxi driver = will=20 know where to take you. Other places will be found by using the = 'Search'=20 feature of your computer. Just click on the 'Edit' tab at the top of = your=20 screen, then the word 'Find' on the little menu that will drop down. = Type=20 'Ikat' or 'cloth' or 'songket' in the space and continue to click = 'Find Next'=20 to go to every place where that word is to be found in this entire=20 document.
    The sacred 'bebali ' cloth, used in traditional temple = rituals is=20 again being made ('06) in Sideman, at Pejenk near Ubud (where the = 'Moon of=20 Pejeng' bronze drum is kept) and at Seraya in east Bali.
    * In Ubud = try=20 Wardini's for a great range of ikat, batik, endek, songket and other=20 fabrics.
    * Sulawasi street in Denpasar is also near the markets. = Lots of=20 materials for quilting, cushion covers and gold embroidered material. = A=20 'guide' will probable attach themselves to you and demand money at the = end of=20 your shopping but its not a bad idea to bargain with them over their = fee the=20 first time you go as they know what all the shops stock. Materials are = very=20 cheap if you can bargain hard. Remember that these shop keepers are = not the=20 poorest of Balinese!
    * Alta Moda is on Jl Patih Jelantik. Three = levels and=20 a glass cage lift. If you want a dress designer/maker they will call = Linda=20 from Belinda House of Fashion, Ph 0361 743 7626, who does excellent = work.
    *=20 Another quality dressmaker at a budget price is Janoko Tailors in = Poppies Lane=20 II not too far from Legian Street. Ph 0361 753 230.

  66. Temple=20 umbrellas are made in a small village just north of Klungkung on the = road to=20 Karangasem, not far past the bridge. There are many varieties but = you=92ll need=20 all of your bargaining skills.
    They are also available in the = Denpasar=20 markets on the top floor but the variety is not so great. Three = layered large=20 size are app Rp70,000.
    Flags are available here also, Rp18,000 = approx =96=20 three sizes, 2, 3 and 5 M. in plain colours and various=20 patterns.

  67. For=20 different gift ideas try Bali Boxes, Jl Dyana Pura 4, Kuta. = Ph(62-0361) 731=20 415 or 731 637.

  68. Some=20 common items such as toothbrushes and toothpaste (strongly flavoured) = are=20 remarkably cheap =96 even for Bali.

  69. Computer=20 software (all pirated of course) is great buying but nowhere near as = easy to=20 source as they were only a year or so ago. Many of the shops have = disappeared=20 on no longer stock programs as the current craze for movie DVD's is = far more=20 lucrative and popular.
    The new kid on the block seems to be Istana = CD in=20 the newish Kuta Galeria complex, on the side opposite the bus-bemo = park and=20 Ace hardware. They have a great range (for PC and Macs !!!!) that are = actually=20 organised into categories on the shelves. The young guy who runs the = place=20 even has a good idea of what he's got in stock and will happily help = you find=20 your needs. A great difference to other stores. E-mail istana_cd_palace@yahoo.com= . Ph=20 (0361) 769 420 or 769 146. Fax (0361) 769 420. PC discs are Rp20,000 = each and=20 Mac stuff or DVD programs are Rp60,000.
    If the occasional program = really=20 refuses to run you will not have lost much in cash terms. Even full = blown=20 programs such as MS Office Pro are only Rp35,000/disc =96 that=92s = about A$7.00=20 !!! If you have trouble at the =91enter the number=92 stage and the = appropriate=20 number is not written on the box, label or disc, then open the disc in = your=20 computer (put the disc in the drive then - =91Start=92 =96 = =91Programs=92 =96 =91Windows=20 Explorer=92 =96 =91CD-Rom drive=92 or just =91Start=92 - =91Run=92) = and then open each file=20 you see =96 look at the contents of the =91Read Me=92 file too, or = look for a file=20 that might be called =91comment=92, =91serial=92, =91crack=92 (if the = start code has been=20 =91cracked=92) =91key-gen=92 =91S.N.=92 or a file ending in =91.txt=92 = - the copiers often put=20 the number in the disc contents rather than on a piece of paper which = can get=20 lost. Look also for a file called =91Crack=92 or =91Crack.exe=92 = which will=20 contain the code. Copy and paste this code into the folder on your c: = drive=20 that contains the game. You might get a prompt pop up asking if you = want to=20 replace the existing file =96 click Yes of OK. Failing that log = on to=20 Google (search) and try "warez" and "serial numbers" for an extensive = list to=20 help you. http://www.astalavista.box.sk/ and=20 http://www.subserials.com/ = are other=20 sites with opening codes.
    Don=92t phone Bill Gates at home and ask = for after=20 sales service!

  70. Helgie=20 is a favourite PS2, CD, DVD etc, supplier for Forumites, delivering to = your=20 hotel or posting to your home. Contact Helgie at mcshop@hotmail.com or Dede,=20 (Deedee)  ddbaligong@hotmail.com or = visit his=20 web site, www.geocities.com= /mcshop2002/helgie.htm.=20 Ph (0011) (62) (361) 759 843. Shop in Garlic Lane off Melasti Street = just=20 opposite Dolphin Leather (recommended) and the Dolphin Cafe. He will = mail=20 discs to you at your home. You pay into his local bank account in Oz = before=20 the order is accepted. Yes, this has been proven to be reliable for = many=20 users. Takes about 10 days. He also guarantees the discs, which no one = else=20 seems to do. In '05 we found that he had no computer software at all = and very=20 little of anything else except movie DVD's.

  71. Engineering and other computer software is still = available=20 from Softcomp Centre, Jl Legian Kelod No 408C and Poppies II =96 as = well as new=20 outlets in Jl Wana Segara, Tuban and Kuta Square Blok F number 11 = opposite the=20 art Markets as well as Jl Padma No 77 next to Warung Jogya in = Legian.  softcomp_2000@yahoo.com = for list.=20 MP3=92s for Rp35,000 with 200 tracks.
    Other computer software = outlets; See=20 the Denpasar=20 District section.

  72. DVD=92s=20 are the current fashion and are readily available at ridiculous prices = =96 but=20 be careful. Some VCD=92s are very poor copies made from movie cameras = in picture=20 theatres. Check the quality on a player before you buy. No player =96 = no buy.=20 App Rp45,000 each. Bargain for volume purchases. At Ramayana = Department store=20 you can=92t bargain but they commonly offer 1 free for purchase of 10 = or 3 free=20 for 20.

  73. Playstation games from Rp3,000 / CD (top floor = Ramayana=20 shopping centre) to Rp5,000.

  74. Prices for some everyday items (June 2001) =96 = Crochet=20 tablecloth (Git Git) Rp45,000 =96 Adidas V neck men=92s=92 tops (Kuta = Markets)=20 Rp25,000 =96 5 watches (Kuta Beach Markets) Rp 25,000 each. =96 = Toddlers and baby=20 outfits at department stores. Rp30-40,000. Men=92s=92 business = trousers=20 (Matahari=92s) Rp127,000. =96 Business shirts Rp50,000. =96 Italian = ties (Discon)=20 Rp100,000. =96 Long sleeve surf shirts (Kuta markets) Rp25,000 / short = sleeve=20 Rp20,000. =96 New music CD=92s (everywhere) Rp70,000. =96 Small = leather shoulder=20 bags. Rp25,000. =96 Play Station games. Rp5,000. =96 Aussie coin = bangles, matching=20 mum-=91n-daughter. Rp 80,000 the pair. =96 Leather belts =96 Nike, = Billabong etc, 10=20 for Rp300,000. =96 Hair braiding Rp30,000 =96 Bali girls hats Rp10,000 = =96 Kids=20 T-shirts Rp 20,000 =96 Men=92s Nike knitted singlets Rp25,000 =96 = Billabong kids=20 shorts Rp15,000 =96 two long suede jackets A$290 =96 stubby holders = Rp5,000 =96=20 watches Rp25,000 average =96 kids shirts Rp20,000 =96 men=92s shirts = Rp25,000 =96 4=20 stone lanterns Rp200,000 =96 wrap-round, short skirt Rp20,000 =96 =BE = pants Rp25,000=20 =96 girls shorts Rp20,000 =96 girls skirts Rp20,000 =96 XXL Bali bag = Rp70,000 =96=20 massage Rp25-50,000 depending on time/quality (you=92ll get what you = pay for) =96=20 sarongs Rp10-25,000 depending on fabric and size) =96 strapped dresses = Rp25,000=20 -
    Lombok carved wooden place mats. Rp15,000.

  75. FISHING GEAR: Telescopic rods, 2m, Rp65,000. 3m, = Rp95,000.=20 Rod & tackle bags Rp20-25,000. 4 bearing reels Rp60-70,000. Fabric = coated=20 squid jigs Rp15,000.

  76. Boat rides=20 can be arranged at almost any beach where you can see the traditional = Prahus=20 (pron. 'prah-huu'.) or Jukungs (pron. 'juu-koong'.) pulled up on the = sand.=20 Most are now powered by an outboard motor but if you find a sailing = boat on=20 some non-tourist beach then I recommend that you take it and = experience the=20 real thing. Show some interest in the boat and someone will soon come = down and=20 ask if you want to go out. Surfers commonly pay Rp20,000 for a ride to = the=20 reefs which is maybe 20 minutes to half an hour there and back for the = fisherman. The cost is more if you want him to wait for you to finish = or wipe=20 out. A ride along the shore is an interesting (and safe) experience = and you=20 will pay probably about Rp50-75,000 for an hour if you start the = bargaining at=20 about Rp20,000. Big game fishing on large, up-market boats can cost up = to=20 US$120 per person.

  77. Larger=20 size clothing. Try Miss Debbie=92s in Jl Sahadewa, beach side about 50 = M north=20 of Jl Melasti.

  78. Big=20 sizes off the rack in Ubud at Mutiara, Jl Raya and Real Bodies, Jl = Hanuman opp=20 Bodyworks.

  79. Batiks=20 and Ikat cloth readily available at most markets, including Sukawati. = The best=20 batiks are dyed right through the cloth. If the colour/pattern is = stronger on=20 one side it is probably printed or stamped which is not the best.=20

  80. Prescription spectacles = are good=20 buying in Bali. Some Australian Health insurers will refund on costs = of Bali=20 glasses if you have Extras cover for spectacles. Have your receipt. = There are=20 outlets in most tourist areas such as Nusa, Sanur, Denpasar and Kuta. = Try Bali=20 Top Opticor Optic Seis or Optic Melawai or Harisha Optical (115 Jl = Raya Kuta),=20 for contacts, single focus, bi-focals and multi focals. Also = prescription sun=20 glasses. Transitional prescription glasses $120 in Denpasar, depending = on=20 frame quality. With cheap frames bi-focals can be as cheap as A$60. = Eye=20 testing is free or they can be made to your own prescription. Complex=20 prescriptions can take 7-9 days (go early in your holiday) although = simple=20 reading glasses are same day or even =91call back when you=92ve = finished=20 shopping=92! Check the fit of the lens in the frames.
    Optic, ground = floor=20 Ramayana Department store; In Kuta about 5 doors down from Matahari = Department=20 store (A$260 for multi-focal cf. $700 in Oz.).
    Harisna Optical, Jl = Raya=20 Kuta N0 105. From Bemo corner walk towards Denpasar (north), over the = bridge=20 and it=92s on the right hand side where the road bears left. = Multi-focals,=20 rimless titanium frames, A$163. Locals seem to prefer this = outlet.
    ** =20 Many locals go straight to the source and visit Optik Jaya Mandiri in = Jl=20 Legian Gang Melani No3. The Gang runs off Legian towards the east = between=20 Melasti and Jl Patih Jelantik. The phone number is (0361) 786 360. = This outlet=20 also makes lenses for other suppliers so it must be good.
    Contact = lens =96=20 Bali Galleria at the optometrists. Rp135,000 for a 6-pack. Made in = Indonesia=20 by Ciba Vision.
    In Sanur there are two outlets, one in Hardy=92s = Mall (the=20 big supermarket-shopping centre) and another in the main street a = short=20 distance north of the Santrian Hotel.
    Transition lenses in good = frames were=20 Rp450,000 in early '05, including eye testing. Graduated transition = lenses=20 (not including frames) quoted at Aus$225 by Optic Seis in Kuta Square = February=20 '05.
    Lalu Mustakim is reported to give excellent service in your = own hotel=20 room rather than having to sit in a hot shop.Ph0815 5809 7823. Honest, = reliable and quality work at very competitive prices.
    Nasional = Optikal=20 Kompani in Hasanuddin Street, Denpasar, give a 12 month guarantee with = their=20 work and they have an agent in Australia for convenient = service.
    Lalu will=20 come to your hotel, give you a full eye check and show you the = different=20 frames that he has. Rp400,000 (about Aus$60) for reading glasses ('06) = ready=20 in 3 days. Ph 0815 5809 7823.
    Optic Jaya Mandiri is about 10 paces = along=20 the small lane that goes east off Jl Legian about 50-60 paces south = (towards=20 Kuta) from the Melasti St traffic lights. Run by young Nur who has the = latest=20 training and equipment. Some other travelling salesmen get their real = work=20 done here.    *** '09 - I tried Nur in January and was = very=20 disturbed by the encounter. I have one eye which sees lower than the = other and=20 requires a wedge shape in that lens to correct things. I told Nur this = before=20 I sat down but he still persisted until 20 minutes later when he gave = up=20 trying to tell me the double vision I had was imagination! I think if = I had=20 not been as determined as he (or more so) he would have happily sold = me=20 useless glasses.
    Not always easy to find saline solution. Optic in = Denpasar=20 is an outlet.

  81. Hearing=20 Aids are available for Aus$453 for the latest types down to less = than=20 A$200 for older technology.
    Lily Kasoem Optikal on Jl Teuku Umar,=20 Denpasar, Ph 283 405 test your hearing in about 15 minutes (results = have been=20 found to be identical to tests done in Australia) internal = (Rp3,500,000 -=20 Aus$460), external and the old pocket models with a thin cable up to = the ear=20 (like a spectacle retaining cord) at about Rp1,400,000, about Aus$180. = Deposit=20 of Rp1,000,000 required and production takes about a week.
    Also = Audiotone=20 Pt, Canal Audio, Ph62 21 739 4060, e-mailaudiotone@cbn.net.id= .=20
    Also  in Kuta  Optika Melawi near the Dokar ranks on Jl = Kartika=20 by the Stadium Cafe.

  82. Orchid=20 plants are available in Bali and may be brought back into Australia if = they=20 are small tissue cultured examples growing in sterile medium in glass = flasks.=20 There may be up to 25 plants in a bottle and there are reports of = strike rates=20 as high as 75% when planted out. A maximum of 6 flasks per person are = allowed=20 and it is best to get a permit from Customs before you leave Oz. Go to = AQIS on=20 your computer and look for =91tissue cultures=92.
    The Bali Orchid = Garden has=20 over 100 varieties on show and over 100 varieties in flasks. Ph 466 = 010 or Mob=20 081 2383 5155.
    Flora Bali in the village of Kesiman near Sanur can = also=20 supply. Ask for Ibu Sylvia Muti or Pak Arnold.
    The = cheapest=20 source is at Royal Orchids in Ubung, Denpasar. Rp20-25,000 and the = greatest=20 variety anywhere.

  83. If you are interested in a night market try the Kereng Bemo station in = Denpasar.=20 At about 4.00 pm it slowly closes as a station and changes into a = market for=20 food, clothes jewellery, and a lot of other stuff. As it is mainly for = locals=20 the prices are amazing but tourists are welcomed.

  84. For board bags (and other = carry bags=20 made to order) try 'BBB', Bali Board Bags, in Gang (lane) Benasari = which is=20 off Melasti Street next to Legian Cafe. 9' board bag Rp375,000 (about = Aus$50).=20 Also protective carry bags for musical instruments, skis etc. Wayan = Surwita,=20 Ph 081 2466 0773.

6.    EATING=20 =96 with safety and enjoyably.

There must=20 be thousands of restaurants, cafes and warungs (the local=92s equivalent = of fast=20 food outlets) in Bali, offering a worldwide selection of = cuisines. Many=20 travellers report that they have eaten every meal at a different place = and never=20 had a bad one. Indeed, amongst such competition it can easily be = believed=20 that any that are bad would soon close up, but some dubious ones=20 remain.

Balinese=20 traditionally do not have the more-or-less fixed eating times common to=20 westernised cultures but rather eat whenever they are = hungry. Consequently=20 eating is not a social occasion as we accept it. If you are out for = travelling the day, your driver will understand that you will want to = eat three=20 meals a day. Don=92t be either surprised or offended however if he = declines your=20 invitation to eat with you. He might prefer to rest and snooze in = the car,=20 talk =91local shop=92 with other drivers, eat non-westernised local food = from a=20 warung or a passing food cart or (as at the Pacung Indah Guesthouse and=20 Restaurant near Bedugul) eat in the separated drivers area provided = especially=20 for their own needs.
If you are hosting Balinese for a meal they will = eat=20 lots of white rice and sambals to spice anything up to their = taste will=20 be welcomed. Without asking have tea and/or coffee available with lots = of sugar=20 and pour it for them as part of their meal. You will find that if you = ask they=20 will not want anything in case you think they are imposing on your = generosity.=20 Remember to specifically ask them to begin or they will wait an eternity = in case=20 they start too early and appear greedy. If it's your responsibility to = prepare=20 the menu it might be better to decide on Chinese, Indian or Thai rather = than=20 muck up their own local food.

Further=20 down you will find many restaurants, cafes & warungs named in the = various=20 District sections. Travellers reporting on the Bali Travel Forum (BTF) = site have=20 recommended all of these. Here is a link to Eating= at the=20 first of the District pages, Tuban and Kuta. If you continue to scroll = down from=20 there you will find the others although it will be quicker to go up to = the index=20 and select the district you will be staying in.
BTF also maintain a = current=20 list of their staff favourites on http://www.baliguide.c= om/restaurants.html=20 that is well worth referring to.
Another good list of eateries can be found at http://www-bal= iku.tripod.com/restaurantlinks.html=20 .
http://www.balieats.com/ = is=20 up-to-date & accurate.

  1. =91Bali=20 Belly=92 is not rife but it will ruin your holiday and your friends=92 = holiday if=20 you get it. If you get it bad the Bali medical system is not something = you=92ll=20 enjoy, or even feel relaxed within!
    Wash or wipe your = hands first.=20 See =91Contacts=20 & Info=92 above.

  2. If you are in the market = for a great=20 romantic restaurant these have been recommended by a confirmed = romantic;
    *=20 de MemMidi in Uluwatu. Great views.
    * Indus in Ubud.
    * Ketumbar = in=20 Legian.
    * Koris in Kuta.
    * The Living Room in Seminyak.
    * = KuDeTa also=20 in Seminyak.
    * La Luciolla in Seminyak.
    * Ma Joly on the = seafront in=20 Tuban is classy (although the Pantai next door has a better outlook = and is=20 much cheaper).

  3. Imported wine is not cheap to buy in Bali. = The local=20 Hattan wines are worth trying for interest. Their fruity white won an = award in=20 Europe in =9203. Their cellar-door shop is on the big round about by = the exit to=20 Sanur, near the Planet Hollywood. Average Rp45,000/bottle. Some = French=20 grape juice is now being used.
    You can bring your own (as much as = you dare=20 over the allowed 1.5 litres) but be = prepared to=20 pay $$$ if you get caught at Customs, and you will because there are=20 state-of-the-art X-ray scanners at the airport since the Bali bombing. = Work=20 out what you are prepared to pay in advance and keep just that amount = with=20 your traveller=92s cheques. Then you can show that that is all you = have! You can=20 pay no more! Keep the rest of your cash elsewhere. At worst your wine = will be=20 confiscated =96 at best your "fine" will be accepted, but don't ask = for a=20 receipt.
    Best wine shop at 60 Jl Raya Kerobokan has a reasonable = selection=20 at reasonable (for Bali) prices. It=92s near Kafe Warisan. Per bottle = US$15+.=20
    The new Ku de Ta Restaurant in Seminyak has probably the best wine = list.=20 It=92s right on the beach next to the Oberoi and is not cheap, as the=20 neighbourhood might suggest. Early in '05 there were some negative = reports=20 from returning diners who thought that the service and food quantity = was not=20 satisfactory compared with their previous visits.
    If you have a = contact in=20 Customs it might be possible to purchase confiscated wine at good = prices =96 but=20 don=92t tell them who told you!
    A new local wine outlet has opened = recently=20 (2001), using grape juice imported from West Aust. See note 6 = in=20 =91Shopping=92, above. This is Wine of the Gods. They have an outlet = where you can=20 taste on the Ngurah Rai By Pass road from the airport. It is near the = pink=20 Bali Adventure Tours building. If you get to the Makro Supermarket = you=92ve come=20 too far. Go back and look on the other side of the road. Ph 726 883. = A$12-18 a=20 bottle. They will deliver free to nearby hotels.
    There is a retail = outlet=20 for all sorts of wines towards Legian from Matahari=92s.
    Another = recommended=20 during the wine and spirit shortages of late '08 and '09 is Bali Jaya = on Jl=20 Raya Kuta No132 - between Jl Singosari and Jl Pantai.
    Indico Wines = are=20 another local producer with vineyards along the north coast not far = from=20 Lovina. These vines are said to be descended from original cutting = brought by=20 the early traders in the Spice Islands. See www.wguides.com/c= ity/191/240_293505.efm.=20 Visits to the Lovina Winery can be arranged. Ph +62 361 228 222. There = is an=20 office in Denpasar at Jl Raya Puputan, No88, RENON.

  4. Are you=20 paying =91commission=92? The standard price of Nasi Goreng = =91Special=92 is=20 Rp15,000.
    How much tax are you paying? Restaurant/caf=E9 rates vary = from 5%=20 to 25%. Makes a difference at the end of the meal. Check the tax and service charge rates on = the menus.=20

  5. Fruit is fantastic! Any fruit that you can peel is = safe. Do not=20 eat fruit if the edible portion has been washed in local water.=20

  6. Try=20 Passionfruit, Salak, and Mangosteen, known as Manggis (pron Mun =96 = geese) if=20 fresh. They cut easily around the =91equator=92 but are very tough = from =91pole to=20 pole=92. If you can pull off the stem and leaves there is a small = hollow left.=20 Squeeze around this and a split will open in the skin. Try Sawo and = bananas=20 also. The following list of fruit was posted by Smudge UK in = '05;=20

  7. Bali has so much fruit available some a = lot of us=20 never heard of before coming here, I think it might be interesting to = see how=20 many of you have tried all the following and if you know of some I = have left=20 out. I have tried to give Indonesian names in the hope others may find = this=20 interesting
    Fruit Buah; Banana Pisang; Yellow Mellon = Semangka kuning;=20 Red Melon Semangka Merah; sweet Mellon Melon; Apple Apel; Pear Pir; = Jambu=20 Jambu Air; Jambo Biji Jambo Biji; Tamerind Tamerind; Kiwi Kiwi; Sawbo = Sawbo=20 (bit like Kiwi red colour); Pasion Fruit Kepundung; Papiah Pepaya;=20  Pineapple Nanas; Mangis = Mangis; Hairy=20 Fruit Rambutan; Snake Fruit Salak; Lychese Lycese; Grapes Angur; Mango = Manga;=20 Strawberry ; Dragon Fruit Dragon Fruit; Orange Sweet Jeruk Manis; = Orange sour=20 Jeruk Masam; Lemon Jeruk Nipis; Grapefruit ; Pomello ; Pomegranit = Jelima; Jack=20 Fruit Jakfruit; Durian durian.

  8. =91Makan=20 Pagi=92 =96 breakfast. =91Makan Siang=92 =96 lunch. =91Makan Malam=92 = =96 dinner.=20

  9. =91Nasi=92 =96=20 rice. =91Mie=92 =96 noodles. =91Ikan=92 =96 fish. =91Ayam=92 =96 = chicken. =91Sapi=92 =96 beef. =91Babi=92=20 =96 pork. =91Kepiting=92 =96 crab. =91Udang=92 =96 shrimp/prawns. = =91Susu=92 =96 milk. =91Gulu=92 =96=20 sugar. =91Kopi=92 =96 coffee. =91The=92 =96 tea. =91Bir=92 =96 beer. = =91garam=92 =96 salt. =91Merica=92 =96=20 pepper.

  10. Bakso Sapi =96 noodle soup with beef balls. = Sate Ayam or=20 Sate Kambing =96 chicken or goat sate. Soto Babat =96 offal soup. = Martabak telur =96=20 savoury omelette. Sop Kaki Kambing =96 leg of lamb soup. Nasi Goreng = Komplit =96=20 fried rice with the lot including. fried egg on top. Mie Kocok =96 = fried noodles=20 with vegetables. Lontong Opor =96 rice cake with chicken curry. Tahu = Ketupat =96=20 beancurd with vegetables. Karedok =96 vegetables with peanut sauce. = Cah Kangkung=20 =96 spicy vegetables and spinach. Nasi Campur =96 (Bali special), = mixed rice. Es=20 Campur =96 mixed fruit drink. Es Kalapa Muda =96 young coconut milk = with coconut=20 flesh. Cendol =96 coconut milk, palm sugar and rice flour, drink or = dessert.=20

  11. Most steaks are tough in Bali. Some believe that they are = all=20 =91road-killed-or-died-of-old-age-or-natural-causes=92 water buffalo. = They=92re=20 certainly not grain-fed and lot-fattened beasts.

  12. There=20 are a wide variety of breads and other baked = products=20 available in Bali. In Seminyak try the French Country Loaf from Temuku = next to=20 the Krakatoa. Le Bake Shop in Kuta has breakfast rolls, baguettes etc, = as do=20 the Gourmet Garage in Jimbaran By and Kafe Moka in Legian. The Bali = Deli at=20 119X Jl Kunti in Seminyak is worth checking for cake shop items and = Dijon=92s=20 opposite the Bali International Medical Clinic (BIMC) on the = roundabout on Jl=20 By Pass Kuta/Tuban.

  13. Desserts are great in the land of coconut milk and = palm=20 sugars. Try Black Rice Pudding (for breakfast too). =91Rujak=92 is a = tropical=20 fruit salad with dressing containing tamarind, palm sugar and sweet = & sour=20 chilli sauce. Don=92t think about it =96 try it! =91Home Made Ice = creams=92 such as=20 ginger flavoured.

  14. Some=20 brave people try the street carts called =91kaki = lima=92=20 (=915 feet=92) Claim great taste is reward!?

  15. "Recommending places to eat in Bali is like = picking=20 the winner of the Grand National. The horse can have great form and = the=20 world=92s best trainer but the real question is, who is the jockey? In = Bali=20 restaurants and warungs the question is, who is=20 cooking today?" =96 =91Cracker & Rae=92.

  16. Vegetarian meals are fairly easy to find in = Bali. For more=20 and current information go to the = Happy Cow=20 web site. One of the more notable vegetarian restaurants is Aromas on Jl Legian in Kuta (the toilets here are = great too).=20 Others that have been recommended for vegetarians with non-vegy = partners are=20
    The Crown Restaurant in Jl Legian, not far from the Legian = Paradiso;=20
    Moody=92s in Jl Dynapura, Seminyak;
    The Mariner in Jl Legian; = Poppies in=20 Poppies Lane, Kuta;
    Ledgends Restaurant;
    Indo National in Jl = Padma in=20 Legian.
    Savitri Caf=E9 near the golf course in Sanur.     =
    The Hare=20 Krishna Warung on the airport-Sarur By Pass road. No need to worry = here that=20 the cooking utensils have just stirred a dish of local water buffalo, = known=20 locally as 'beef'.

  17. For =91at=20 home=92 delicacies try Dijon in Kuta near the = roundabout=20 on the By Pass road not far from the airport.
    Bali Deli in Jl = Kunti,=20 Seminyak.
    Gourmet Garage in Jimbaran.
    Matahari=92s Department = store in=20 Kuta also has a range of cheeses, including Brie, salami, olives = etc.
    For=20 Aussies Vegemite is easily obtained but check = the label=20 carefully. Most supplies are made in New Zealand and are slightly = sweet, more=20 like Marmite. Try Dijon Deli near the roundabout on Jl By Pass near = the=20 airport.

  18. Take-away food=20 is available in Bali. Try the specialist delis such as Dijon, Bali = Deli or=20 Mamma's German Restaurant which has won several respected cleanliness = and=20 processing awards. They deliver from 10am to 11pm. Have a look at http://www.bali-mammas.com/.=20

  19. Donations to Gloria=92s Crisis Care Centre = can be made=20 at the Legian Garden Restaurant in Melasti Street. Any good taxi = driver can=20 take you there. Atmosphere and food=92s good too.
    Other drop-off = places for=20 donations are Tommy=92s Caf=E9 on Jl Puri Bagus Teruna (also known as = Rum Jungle=20 Road) and CAS Cargo on the By Pass Road in=20 Denpasar.
     Gloria=92s CCC is in Dusun Lebah, = Kaliasem,=20 Lovina. Visitors are welcome to come and see the work. Volunteer = workers=20 are doubly welcome. See the web site which has been set up for her at = http://www.balicrisicare.org/ = . Ph (0362) 42 286 or 0812 377 4649 E-mail=20 balicrisiscare@hotmail.com.
    There is a wish-list of the most urgent = needs=20 and it is regularly updated. http://www.w= onderfulbali.com/albums/19/wishlist.htm=20 .

7.    DRINKING =96 for enjoyment and=20 safely.

  1. Drink=20 only bottled water that you have taken = the top off=20 yourself or which you have seen the top taken off and the seal broken, = or=20 water vigorously boiled for at least 5 to 10 minutes =96 and what=92s = left of it=20 then?

  2. If you=20 partake of Beer (and you will, regularly and in larger than normal = quantities=20 as a cooling libation I can assure you) then also remember to drink = lots of=20 water to overcome dehydration, which is a real and serious risk in = Bali=92s=20 heat.

  3. Do not=20 use straws as they are sometimes washed and re-used. =

  4. Wipe the tops of bottles = after they=20 have been opened and before they come into contact with your = mouth.=20

  5. Don=92t=20 risk cold bottled/canned drinks from coolers filled with ice slurry. = The water=20 in the slurry must be suspect. Use drinks from refrigerated cabinets.=20

  6. In the=20 southern tourist areas at least, ice seems OK.

  7. Beers =96 Bintang (it means =91star=92 in the local = language),=20 Carlsberg, San Migel, Anker. Don't just drink beer if you're = thirsty.=20 Your body will be needing water as well to prevent dehydration in the = tropical=20 climate. Drink water, soda water of sports drinks such as Gatorade as = well.=20 Three beers to a water is recommended by an old friend who is also a = surviving=20 soak.

  8. Lassi.=20 Yoghurt drink with fruit or honey.

  9. Taking=20 wine into Bali beyond the 1 litre per = person=20 limit is a game indulged in and enjoyed by many. If you find that a = white=20 cross marks your bags when you pick them up you have been caught and = you will=20 need a good story or a few dollars to pay the Customs Officer=92s = "fine". Decide=20 how much you=92re prepared to pay in advance and keep only this amount = in your=20 wallet with travellers=92 cheques. If you=92re asked for more than = this sum show=20 your wallet and explain that this is all that you have. It will = generally be=20 accepted. Do not whinge and whine! Smile and take it on the chin. = Remember=20 it=92s a game and you decided to play.
    I have heard it said that = the best=20 range of wines at the very best prices in all of Bali is at the back = door of=20 the Customs House, but I can=92t personally confirm this because = I=92ve never been=20 able to find the right door.
    There is a local=20 wine named Hattens that can be tried for the sake of interest and = for=20 background conversation at your next Beefsteak and Burgundy club = meeting!=20 World wines (mainly Australian and French) are commonly available at = the=20 supermarkets but the prices are alarming as the Governments excise = duty paid=20 for alcohol imported into Bali is astronomical. This is to appease the = majority Muslims in the Indonesian upper & ruling classes. Best = Wines in=20 Jl Kerobokan supply imported wines at more reasonable rates than most = outlets.=20 In Ubud sales are available from the new Lamak Restaurant at around = Rp100,000=20 / bottle (A$20-US$10 app) and this is discounted at 30% to take = away.
    An=20 enterprising West Australian company is now exporting grape juice into = Bali=20 (at nil excise rates as it is not alcohol at this stage) and = completing the=20 fermentation processes there. Known as =91Wine of the Gods=92 ( =     winegods@indosat.net.id )it is available from the winery/shop on = Sanur bypass=20 road, on the right just past Adventure Tours House but before the = Benoa=20 Harbour turn-off as you travel from Kuta. You can taste before you = buy. Prices=20 are about Rp80-95,000/bottle. If you know what you want they will = deliver an=20 order to your hotel. A good site for the latest info on wines in Bali = is http://baliguid= e.com/restaurants_intro.html#beer=20 .

8.    VISITING Some recommended =91hot spots=92. = For a day tour with=20 variety.

  1. Pupuan,=20 rice terraces, on 30 Km of road between Tabanan & Seririt on the = north=20 coast not far from Lovina. 

  2. Jatiluwih, recommended for inclusion in the = World=20 Heritage lists, is also in the Tabanan Regency. It is spectacular and = a major=20 producer of black and red rice.

  3. Candikuning, fruit & veg market near = Bedugul in=20 the central highlands. For contrast also stop at the Baturiti markets = just=20 before Candikuning. These are more local than tourist markets with = even a=20 working goldsmith in the back row of shops.

  4. The expanse of rice = terraces just past=20 Amlapura in the east of Bali, running down the mountain slopes to the = coastal=20 plains are simply mind-boggling.

  5. Bali Art=20 Tour,

  6. Pondok=20 Wana Plaga.

  7. Visit=20 Munduk water falls up in the central mountains above Bedugul. More = peaceful=20 than many that are more popular and not a hard walk in comparison with = others.=20 Stop at a small coffee plantation and restaurant at Ngireng Ngewedang = on a=20 sharp right turn just before Munduk.

  8. Gianyar,=20 Bali=92s bamboo district.

  9. Rice=20 terraces at Tirthagangga (often claimed to be the best in Bali =96 = particularly=20 in the months leading up to July) or Tegalang.

  10. Visit=20 the three Dutch colonial iron 'railway' bridges in Bali. In Sukawati, = west of=20 the Art Market, between Bona and Belega villages, towards Gianyar, the = largest=20 towards Klungkung. All on the main road (actually a bit north of the = present=20 road, from Batubukan, (north east of Denpasar) through Bona, (near = Gianyar),=20 to Klungkung in the mid-east towards Candi Dasa. There have never been = trains=20 running on real lines in Bali but there is a steam train to be seen = near=20 Paradiso Bowling in Kuta. Ask a local and they'll tell you where. Must = have=20 been an expensive promotion at some time.

  11. Dreamland Beach about 30 min from Kuta on = the way to=20 Uluwatu. You can rent homestay rooms at the beach (app Rp100,000/night = - '06)=20 but there are only two villas so bookings might be the way to go. = There are=20 warungs for food & drink, massage and so on. The water gets deep = very=20 quickly near the shore and the reef can be dangerous because it is = very=20 shallow and the waves dump further out. When going to = Dreamland=20 Beach take the right branch when you come to a fork in the road. This = will=20 lead you down to a flattish car park area with a little warung and = only about=20 10 steps down to that beautiful beach.

  12. Padang=20 Padang beach is also on the Bukit peninsula near Uluwatu temple but a = bit=20 further south than Dreamland, towards Uluwatu and is also spectacular = with=20 bright greenish water. A bit safer than some of the nearby beaches but = always=20 be careful of rips and hidden holes anywhere around these surfing = beaches.=20 There are a few T-shirt sellers but not pushy. Have a look at http://www.filosbali.ne= t/balibeaches.htm=20 for more on Bali's beaches.

  13. The=20 butterfly park at Tabanan, north west of Denpasar. Rp15-30,000 There = is also a=20 store in Ubud, Jl Raya Lungsiakan that sells insect souvenirs. Declare = them=20 when you go home, just in case.

  14. Beware=20 of the so-called =91Village of Thieves=92, Pennestenan and Nyuhkuning. = These=20 neighbouring villages are a couple of kilometres west of Ubud = (Pennestenan)=20 and a couple south (Nyuhkuning). Camphuan just out of Ubud also has a = bad=20 reputation for tourist robbery. Robberies usually occur while you are = asleep.=20 If you wake up its best to pretend that you=92re still asleep as knife = attacks=20 are common too.

  15. Snorkelling and diving = locations=20 worthy of a visit are at Menjangan Island (north west coast), Lipah, = Tulamben=20 (north east coast), Lovina, Amed, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningen, = the=20 Crystal Bay on Nusa Penida (beware the currents and eddies here on = moving=20 tides) and even the reef off Sanur.

9.    THINGS TO=20 DO =96 some common, some exotic.

  1. Reflexology, Jl Kartika Plaza, opp side to = Dynasty.=20 A$13 for 1 hr.

  2. Read=20 =91Bali Sun=92 newspaper, =91Jakarta Post=92 = for interesting=20 light on local news. (=91Bali Post=92 is in Indonesian.) =

  3. Go to=20 Java, but with care. Java is a predominantly Muslin country whilst = Bali is=20 mainly more peaceful Hindu. These two parts of Indonesia are quite = different.=20 From the southern tourist areas it is about 4 hours to Gilimanuk ion = the north=20 west coast where the ferry to Ketapang Harbour (in the Banyuwangi = Regency of=20 Java) departs. You can drive your own car or take a bus (Akas Bus Co). = If in=20 your own car you must keep awake to maintain your place in the queue = to get on=20 the ferry. This can take from a few minutes to 5 or 6 hours on a = public=20 holiday. The busses will have priority to get on the ferry. The = ferries are=20 old Japanese surplus with a scungy shop, a rabid lounge area with = foreign=20 language re-runs of imported soap operas and a sun deck, swept = cleanish by the=20 wind and waves, from which you can check your progress by the approach = of the=20 Mount Merapi volcano caldera in East Java. The crossing takes about 1 = 1/2=20 hours and costs from Rp15,000 in the bus to Rp 30,000 for a small car. = Most of=20 the passengers are not tourists but locals and business people who = will be=20 happy to chat and give you a different (honest?) view of Indonesia and = Indonesians. In Java you might visit Kawah Ijen and see the = sulphur=20 workers toiling up the crater. http://www.volcanic=20 images.com/kawa/kawaijen.html.  Tours can be arranged by Paul of = BaliJava=20 Tours in Poppies Lane I, opposite Bamboo Corner, paulyogya@hotmail.com, Mob = +62 8 123=20 64 2000. Rp2,150,000 pp for all accommodation, meals etc. If you want = to fly=20 back instead of bus again its an extra Rp450,000 pp.

  4. Unda=20 Adventures White-water Rafting, run finishes at = Klungkung.=20 A$45 inc lunch. Tickets at BaliAussi Restaurant. No steps to climb at = the end=20 (some have over 300!) Can be got for US$35pp. Instead of US$65. =

  5. Bali=20 Safari Rafting =96 Telaja Waga river =96 faster & longer. Good = buffet meal=20 too. Take camera. Good showers and Restaurant after. 300 steps! = =91Better than=20 Sobek=92. May now (2001) have been bought out by Sobek and called = Telaga River=20 Rafting.

  6. Sobek=20 Rafting. Operates on both the Ayung and Telaja Waga rivers. The Ayung = is the=20 less frightening river but it has many steps down to and up from the = river.=20 The Ayung is in central southern Bali (around Ubud and above) with = great=20 scenery and the Telaga Waja is to the east, about an hour=92s more = driving.=20

  7. Bali=20 International Rafting runs on the same river as Bali Rafting but fewer = steps=20 to and from river. About 80 down and 90 back up.

  8. Ubud=20 Sari Massage and Spa. ($$$)

  9. Helicopter Flights. Bali Adventure Tours US$45 = (min 3=20 people) for Kuta Beach flight. US$330 for flight along the beaches - = max 4=20 people. Uluwatu temple US$605 for 4. bahamabali@yahoo.com. Make = sure you've=20 got good weather. Can't see a damn thing if it's cloudy.
    Also Air = Bali,=20 helicopter and seaplane tours . http://www.airbali.com/ . E-mail = info@airbali.com Ph 62 361 = 76766.
    Not=20 cheap but the sights are out of this world. Have a look for the coffee = table=20 book, Bali From the Air, R Ian Lloyd and Joseph Yogerst. ISBN 981 00 = 5332=20 0.

  10. Air Bali=20 also has helicopter tours available. There is a southern circuit = (about 1=20 hour) and a mountain loop (about 1.5 hours). Their office is at Dewa = Runci=20 Building, Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta Bali Indonesia. Ph 767 466 = or 766=20 582. Fax 766 581. E-mail airbali@dps.centrin.net.id= . Web=20 sites http://www.airbali.com/ = and http://www.balihelicopters.com/<= /A>.=20

  11. Day=20 trips to Lembongan Island by new fast-cat ferry, Lembongan Express = Service.=20 Departs daily at 8.30 am from Kesumasari Street in Sanur beach or = pick-up from=20 your hotel. Return to Bali 4.45 pm. Book on 287 431 on 761 744. = US$15pp=20 including pick-up. http://lembongan-discovery.com/<= /A> .=20

  12. Bali Hai=20 Cruises to Lembongan Island. Much cheaper to book = in Oz =96=20 A$ 95 (cf US$85 in Bali) for the Reef Cruise, A$105 for the Beach Club = Cruise=20 with water & land activities. Contact Jenny in Oz, balihai@q-net.au. Open date = tickets=20 available to ensure good weather. Web site http://www.balihaicruises.com/. At=20 times (perhaps with some staff) the Sunset Cruises have attracted = criticism =96=20 =91terrible food=92, =91poor service=92, =91treated like pests=92. =

  13. The=20 Bounty is similar and some say better. For any boat the landing on = Lembongan=20 pontoons is a bit of a trial at times. A$80. You will get buffet lunch = on the=20 boat and can leave the pontoon to explore the island(s). =

  14. See a movie. There is a new theatre in the Duty Free Stores = (DFS) in=20 the Galleria Complex near Matahari on Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass. Rp15,000.=20

  15. WaterBom Park is now known as WaterPark and is = great fun for=20 kids =96 little and big. Its $15US+10% entry fee is not cheap = (Rp516,000 for a=20 family). Discount vouchers are available in many places, including 20% = at=20 places in the Kuta Markets which brings it down to about Rp425,000 or = Aus$85=20 for a family. The BBQ corn is good, as is other food, and the prices = quite=20 reasonable. Take your own towels as they are not cheap to hire there = and a=20 large deposit is asked. Travel light as lockers for storage of your=20 possessions is also expensive. Check current rates and activities at = http://www.waterbom.com/ . = Security has=20 recently been stepped up several big notches.

  16. Batubulan, a little north of Denpasar is a = noted stone=20 sculpture and dance centre. The dances are about $10 a head. Do go to = the=20 toilet before you attend. The local loos are real dunnies! =

  17. Geger Beach or 'Pantai = Geger', just=20 south of Nusa Dua past the Bali Golf and country club and near the = Pura Geger=20 temple that you can see on the cliffs, Is reputed to be one of the = best=20 swimming beaches in southern Bali. Not well known, although all the = taxi=20 drivers seem to be able to get you there, it is deep enough to really = have a=20 swim but not rough from surf waves or with very dangerous currents. = There is a=20 small beach with a bit of shade, a few massage ladies and a little = warung=20 where you can get a drink.

  18. Visit the awesome = cliff-top temple at=20 Uluwatu on the very southern tip of the island. This 'teardrop' on the = bottom=20 of Bali is a dry, porous limestone tableland known as the Bukit. The=20 spectacular view down to the ocean from the temple will take your = breath away.=20 The local monkeys will also take away anything else you have that's = not tied=20 down. Do not trust them. Don't trust the guides who say for a small = fee that=20 they will get your purse, glasses, coat, hat etc back for you. Take = care of=20 the sun here as there is little shade. If you want to interact with = the local=20 monkeys those in the Monkey Forest at Ubud are a bit safer but don't = get=20 between a mother and a baby. At any temple you will need to meet = respectful=20 dress standards which usually means a long sarong for both women and = men. You=20 can hire these but if you're visiting a number you might want to take = one of=20 your own that you've bought. Uluwatu has a special Kecak (monkey) = Dance every=20 night.
    On the Bukit you'll also find Swells Restaurant where you = can get=20 great pizzas, meat pies better than the best in Aussie, fresh bread, = English=20 muffins. There is also a big screen for surf movies and internet = connection.=20 Its on the main road to Uluwatu near the turn off to Dreamland = beach.    =20

  19. Bali Safari and Marine = Park.=20 Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra, Km. 19,8 Gianyar 80551; = Ph. (+=20 62 361) 950 000, Fax. + 62 361 950 555.  http://www.balisafarimarine= park.com/=20 . US$25 entry. Generally glowing reports from visitors in '08. =

10.    INTERNET /=20 MOBILE=20 PHONES. =

If you = want to access=20 your normal e-mail service in a simple manner while you are away try http://se= rvices.mail2web.com/Travelers/EmailRetrieval/.=20 You just type in your own e-mail address and your password and away you=20 go.

 

If you=20 want to access your OWN computer while you are away it can be done. = This, of=20 course, saves you all those frustrations about coping with different = looking=20 screen layouts or re-typing all your e-mail addresses and allows you = access to=20 any information that you've stored on your own computer. It also means = that you=20 don't have to take a laptop with you on holidays so you save all that = weight=20 (both ways) and freight costs to say nothing of the insurance cost that = you=20 should have and the risk of losing everything if it's stolen! =

Before=20 you leave home you must download onto your computer a simple program = from http://www.logmein.com/ (or others) = and=20 decide on a secure password. This computer must be left running while = you're=20 away of course but the screen can be off. On your holiday you need only = find any=20 web-enabled computer at a friends or a cyber cafe for instance, log onto = the=20 'Log Me In' site, enter your home address and password and there you = are,=20 sitting down at your own familiar computer with all of your data and = info at=20 your finger tips ready to download photos, write e-mails to friends or = begin you=20 holiday diary.

 

If you=20 take your own laptop to Bali you might be concerned to hear about their=20 notorious power surges but the laptop battery should filter these out = without=20 any problems. If you're nervous just charge the battery when the = computer is off=20 and disconnect the charger before turning the machine on to = use.

 

You can buy new mobiles in Bali but you need to know the cost of any=20 particular model at home. Some reports are that they are more expensive = than at=20 home, other reports (in '05) of a new Nokia for US$50!!! In '07 there = were=20 reports of  a new Motorola C139 (a basic model) selling for = Rp360,000=20 (Aus$50) at the Handphone Shop, 134 Jl Teuku Umar, Denpasar.

 

For = Indonesian post=20 codes go to http://indonesianewsonline.com/prangko/stamps/kode= pos.htm=20 .

For the = correct=20 dialling sequences (and the best times to call) go to http://www.countrycallingcodes.com/ and = follow thew=20 prompts from, 'the country you're calling from' - to the = end.

In general terms dial 0011 for = International calls=20 then, if you're calling someone in Bali use +62 and leave off the first = 0 in=20 their number; if you're calling someone in Australia from Bali use +61 = and drop=20 the first 0 in their number.

  1. Internet=20 Cafes are everywhere. About Rp300 (app A6 cents)/minute. Alternative=20 Rp4,000(A$0.80)/half hour minimum, Rp8,000(A$1.60)/hour. Some are fast = and=20 good value. Some have slow connections; missing letters on keyboards = etc.=20
    By comparison most hotel business offices are very expensive and = not=20 generally any quicker.

  2. Bali=20 Cyber Caf=E9 and Restaurant is now on Jl Patih Jelantik in Legian, in = the corner=20 of Komplex Sriwijaya. It is a favourite of many locals as well as = travellers=20 for its coffee, exceptional food, drinks and reading material =96 and = the=20 connection speed is reported to be better than typical of Bali. We = found it to=20 be remarkably good in mid '05 and still continue to use it ('07).=20 There is also MSN = Messenger=20 available and with a nice smile you might also borrow a web cam from = Haaris.=20 The Bali Cyber Caf=E9 really is a caf=E9 with good food and service. = Goods (but=20 not money) for orphanages can be confidently left there for owner = Haaris to=20 deliver. Ph +(62) 361 761 326, Fax +(62)  361 762292 , = http://web.singnet.com= .sg/~hchua/cafe.htm=20 , e-mail hello@balicyber.net.=20

  3. One of=20 the fastest Cafes is in Ubud in the main street next to the small Neka = Gallery=20 (not to be confused with the larger Neka art Museum and Gallery)  = and=20 about 50 paces from the Post Office. Called Highway it is owned by an=20 enthusiast who takes pride in his Pentium 4 PC=92s and fast Apple Macs = on fibre=20 optic networks and satellite. Open 24 hours every day. Ph (0361) 972 = 107. Web=20 site http://www.highwaybali.com/=20 .

  4. If=20 you=92re lucky enough to be staying in the Villa Bali Impian Suites = (run by Bali=20 Travel Forum) you will have access to their fast business network for = free.=20 256K access to the internet through Indosat and WiFi will be = operational=20 shortly. (Oct =9204).

  5. Also=20 fast by Bali standards is the Internet shop opposite the Barong hotel = in=20 Kuta/Legian.

  6. GlobalNet on Jl Raya Kerobokan also has its=20 supporters.

  7. If=20 you=92re travelling north of the tourist areas you will probably pass = through=20 the township of Kerobokan, just north of Legian/Seminyak, on the way = to Tanah=20 lot temple or Tabanan or Bedugul, or perhaps even Ubud although it=92s = a bit of=20 off this track to the left (west). Just before Kerobokan there are = traffic=20 lights at the Canggu Road turn-off. The second street on the left past = the=20 lights is Jl Raya Semer and at number 9 you=92ll find the Globe = Caf=E9, which has=20 a very trendy menu, nice classical music in the background, A/C and = satellite=20 Internet connections. Sounds like a long way to go for your e-mail but = it=92s a=20 very nice drive, a bit off the beaten track and with some lovely rural = scenery. It=92s also on the way to the orphanage at the village of = Tuka, about 5=20 Km further on.

  8. Another=20 fast broadband connection in Kerobokan is at Mimi's Cafe about 100 = meters=20 before the turn off to Canggu/Tanah Lot. Fairly cheap at Rp6,000/hour. = About=20 40 machines in good order. ('05).

  9. In Sanur=20 Gazebo Internet Cafe has ADSL-128 kbps broadband connection; = Rp400/minute. It=20 is open from 8am to 1am every day. It's next to the Gazebo Hotel and = might be=20 part of their service but it is open to anyone.

  10. Also in=20 the Star Cafe on the beach side of the main road south of Hardy's = Department=20 store and before the Peneeda Hotel.

  11. Also Zoo=20 Cafe.

  12. If you're lucky enough to = be staying=20 at the Novotel in Nusa Dua you'll enjoy free connection at their = restaurant.=20 If you go and buy a cup of coffee there you'll perhaps enjoy free = connection=20 too.

  13. In Poppies Lane I there are two cafes next to each = other that=20 had good connections in mid '06.

  14. You can=20 probably use your hotel phone connection to connect a lap top computer = to the=20 Internet. You have to dial a number (commonly 9) to get an outside = line, or=20 you have to go through a PABX system, follow the number with a comma = to=20 generate a pause in the dialling process. The number for Telcomnet = connection=20 to the =91net is 9,080 989 999, User ID =96 =91telcomnet=92, password = =91telkom=92 =96=20 =91finish=92. Your hotel will charge you for a local call. 
    If = you need to=20 enter computer type details try these =96 for Outlook via telcom net @ = instan;=20 Incoming mail (POP 3) server: pop3.telkom.net and Outgoing mail (SMTP) = server:=20 smtp.telkom.net. You might find it useful to read the information at = http://mail.telkom.net/.
    An = alternative=20 communication route is http://www.mail2web.com/ where = you can=20 send & receive E-mail from your own ISP account. You will need to = enter=20 your own password and e-mail address.
    Another source of these = details is at=20 the Forum site, http://www.baliguide.com/. = These details=20 are always updated if any information changes for any = reason.    =20

  15. Don=92t=20 forget to take your e-mail addresses (and phone numbers) with you, or = before=20 you leave open a Hotmail connection and enter all of the addresses = that you=20 will want to send messages to from Bali. Hotmail will undoubtedly = be=20 found most easily on the top of the =91Favourites=92 or = =91Bookmarks=92 list of almost=20 every computer you sit at.
    Most likely your ISP e-mail has a = transfer=20 facility that will send copies of your own e-mails to the Hotmail = address=20 also.

  16. For backpackers doing it cheap but still wanting = to contact=20 home, arrange for dad=92s middle name to be the code word that = you=92re OK. Ring=20 home person-to-person and ask for dad (or mum) by their middle name. = They can=20 say that person is not home to avoid the costs but the message that = you=92re=20 alright gets through.

  17. Second=20 hand mobile phones are available from the top floor of the Ramayana = department=20 store in Denpasar. Approx Rp850,000. New phones are Rp1.2-1.4 million. = A=20 pre-paid card for use in Bali is about Rp300,000.
    * Also available = at a=20 phone shop which is part of the exterior of the Supernova Department = store on=20 Jl Raya Kuta.
    * Also in Jl Benesari past the Champlung Mas hotel = going=20 towards Poppies Lane II. Find the Post Office and ask. About Aus$30 in = '06.
    * Also at Harry's in Poppies Lane II.

  18. At the=20 Bali Galleria, top floor, Nokia 6220 camera-phone, new, was about half = the=20 Aussie price. Simply slip in your own sim card and away you = go.=20

  19. With pre-paid=20 Express cards you get competitive rates. Calling from outside Oz does = not=20 attract GST. A 15 cent connection fee + A40 cent surcharge and A$0.88 = /=20 minute. Note that you cannot SMS with pre-paids from Bali to = Oz.=20

  20. Your carrier,=20 eg Optus, Telstra, etc will e-mail you rates for using your phone in = Bali.=20 Calls are very expensive, averaging around Aus$6.25 per minute ('06). = You will=20 also be charged for calls to your phone from home!
    SMS=92s are = much cheaper=20 at about 50 cents each.
    If you need to phone home use the local = Wartels=20 (telephoning shops) which are government run (many are also the best = money=20 changers in Bali, particularly for Travellers Cheques) where the costs = are=20 about Rp9,000 per minute (About Aus$1.20).

  21. =91International Mobile Roaming=92 = =96 Keep your=20 number and have calls charged to your home account in Oz = dollars. Can be=20 set up by phoning Optus or Telstra before you leave. Aus$9.00/min to = Aust. off=20 peak depending on the local carrier you select. Telcomsel seems=20 cheapest. SMS is the same rate as in Oz. Friends call you = from Oz=20 for app 90 cents/min.

  22. Calling (SMS=20 or text messaging) to Oz from Bali with your phone add 0011 61 before = the=20 number.
    Calling (SMS or text = messaging) to Bali from Oz with your phone begin with +62 and drop off = the 0=20 at the start of the Bali number. Aristo

  23. If you are concerned about having = your=20 phone stolen and a huge bill being run up on it try this. Make a = record of=20 your phones serial number (dial *#06#. A 15-digit code number will = appear.=20 Write it down and keep it safe. ) If your phone is stolen advise = your=20 provider and quote the number.  They can then block your phone = from=20 further use, even if the sim card is changed. The thief may then throw = it away=20 and it may be found and returned to you if you=92re lucky. =

  24. SMS = messages=20 cheap. A$0.22 / message of up to 160 characters. Not on = pre-paids.=20

  25. You = can buy a=20 local SIM card for you phone in Bali. Rp 88,000 which includes Rp = 75,000 for=20 calls or SMS locally or to Oz.  Rp350 for SMS.  A 5 min call = to Oz=20 is about Rp60,000. Top-up cards of various sizes are readily = obtainable and=20 you can keep the unused credit (and the SIM) for your next = visit.=20

  26. There = is a guy=20 next to Chi Chi=92s Restaurant who sells and fits phone top-up cards. = Be very=20 sure that you say clearly how much you want or you=92ll wind up with = an=20 exorbitant amount and harassing demands to pay up if you want your = phone=20 back.

  27. Some travellers who did not do = their=20 homework and make arrangements before leaving home have had A$600+ = bills. One=20 caller found Aus$90 bill for 15 min. call!

  28. Pre-paid=20 mobile credit cards from Simpati, most expensive but strong signal. = Rp300,00=20 upwards. Mentari; no incoming SMS if you run out of credit. No = =91roaming fee=92=20 when out of Bali. Pro XL. Cheapest and good reception. No =91roaming = fee=92, SMS=20 incoming even if credit exhausted. You'll get a Bali number = with a=20 'starter pack' SIM card with some credit. To ring a Bali mobile dial = +62 and=20 drop the first 0 in the number. To ring an Aussie mobile dial +61 and = drop the=20 first 0 in the number.

  29. Dual band=20 phones =96 change to 900/1800 in Bali =96 network search. Dial locals = with 0361=20 prefix or 081 for mob-mob calls.

  30. Telstra =91Phoneaway=92 cards can = be used in=20 Bali. They have a messaging service that can be accessed also. Use on = any=20 landline.

  31. =91Wartels" are public phone = shops, common=20 in the south particularly, with reasonable rates. You direct-dial and = a meter=20 on the wall records the cost as you go. When finished you pay the = shopkeeper.=20 Many also have authorised money changing facilities that are honest = with best=20 rates. They require only a photocopy of your passport to change = Travellers=92=20 Cheques. Fast, friendly, efficient.

  32. Use = http://www.mail2web.com/ to view = your home=20 e-mail account.

  33. For = long SMS=20 messages try using an internet caf=E9 =96 web.icq.com/sms/ICQ for = Optus, Telstra=20 and Vodafone. You need to be registered.
    Also www.smspup.com.au/SMSPUP. = Free=20 after you register. You=92ll get at least 1 junk mail/week to meet = costs.    =20

  34. Bali@Cyber Caf=E9 = Restaurant is OK. You=20 can connect your own laptop here. Skype and Wi-fi available. Food is = more than=20 OK too. 9 Komplex Sriwijaya, = Jl Patih=20 Jelantic in Kuta/Legian

  35. Legian Cyber=20 in Sahadewa Street Legian. Run by 'nengah_bali', a regular poster on = the Bali=20 Travel Forum. They have card readers for Compacta Flash, Memory Stick, = Smart=20 Media and memory cards. They also have a CD burner and blank CD=92s = for your=20 downloads. Burning Rp25,000 includes disc, Rp15,000 on your own = disc.=20

  36. Avoid Legian Internet Caf=E9. = Slow, poorly=20 staffed.

  37. If you need your daily sports/news = fix=20 from Oz, try www.homesick.com.au/index.= html.=20

  38. If you = have a=20 pre-paid phone it can be unlocked for OS use for a small fee. Contact = your=20 carrier. Telstra for example charge A$27.50 if your phone is out of = contract=20 or A$50 if new and still under contract. Virgin release is for a = top-up fee of=20 A$80.

  39. Wi Fi networks are increasing in number. Be very = cautious=20 about your security with wireless connections. A security program = recommended=20 is Hotspot Shield available at http://www.tucows.com/previ= ew/504657=20 .
    * There is one advertised at the entrance to the Bintang = Supermarket in=20 Legian opposite the new Rajas.
    * Perhaps one of the best is at the = Bali=20 Cyber Cafe in Legian and you can get expert help from Haaris=20 and exceptional food and drinks also. 
    * The All Seasons = Hotel=20 (great toilets here too) where you are charged by download size not = time on=20 line.
    * The Atmosphere Restaurant and Cafe is behind the Discovery = Shopping Centre in Tuban. It overlooks the sea and wifi is available = to=20 customers.
    * The Melasti Hotel also has WiFi.
    * The Legian = Village Hotel=20 in Jl Padma.
    * Bali Deli and Bali Bakery both have access.
    * = The=20 Secret Garden in Poppies Lane I, Kuta.
    * Poppies Restaurant in = Poppies I,=20 Kuta.
    * Near the German/ Austrian Cafe in Jl Dynapura, = Seminyak.
    * In=20 Sanur try by the Bali Senia Hotel in Jl Danau Poso. The owner also has = Skype.
    * Zanzibar Cafe, Blue Ocean and Lanai in Legian/Seminyak = have Wi Fi=20 and great food right on the beach front.
       - also the = Bintang=20 Supermarket and Raja's Cafe in Legian.
    * Breeze Restaurant in Jl=20 Sahadewa.
    * Bali Rock Cafe in Jl Melasti, Legian. Great latte's too = I'm=20 told.
    * Gloria Jeans in Kuta Square.
    * At Blu-gills Bar about = 300 metres=20 from the airport exit on the road to Tuban, opposite the easily seen = orange=20 coloured Harris Hotel and just before Ayunadi Supermarket.
    * Ki de = ta has=20 at last joined the list but your 'joining drink' will be more = expensive than=20 almost any other place.
    * Kopi Pot on Jl Legian.

  40. Goodies=20 Restaurant on the beachfront close to the end of Jl 66. Look for the = black and=20 red place. (Great pizza - really cheap!)
    * In Ubud there are = several cafes=20 in Monkey Forest Road with hot spots for laptops. ('07). Also = Dragonfly Bar=20 and Grill on Jl Dewi Sita.
    There is a more-or-less up-to-date list = kept at=20 http://www.mybaliguide.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?action=3Dviewnews&id= =3D95.=20

  41. Skype = (the=20 computer phone program) is becoming available in Bali and gives very = cheap=20 rates for calls home. The new Bali Cyber Cafe at 9 Komplex Sriwijaya, = Jl Patih=20 Jelantic in Kuta/Legian has the service (and cold drinks and great = food=20 too).

  42. In LOVINA there=20 is an Internet Cafe in the main street where the Dolphin statue is. = They have=20 MSN Messenger also.
    In the shop at the entry drive to the Rambutan = Cottages=20 there is a small internet room.

11.    TOILETS, LOOS=20 AND DUNNIES !

A Balinese=20 =91dunny=92 is a traveller=92s worst nightmare =96 and the worst of the = worst is=20 probably one you=92ll be asked to pay for! I=92ve frequently seen = stalwart=20 companions-in-need get just inside the door (often just an opening in = the wall=20 really), do a U turn and exit without perceptible pause, looking pallid = and=20 strained.

Don=92t=20 think for one minute that nice shops, department stores, or even hotels = at=20 times, will have anything other than DUNNIES! Above all, don=92t expect = toilet=20 paper. ALWAYS take your own for emergencies. It=92s as important as = money as soon=20 as you leave your hotel. And remember your dear old mother=92s advice, = "Always go=20 before you leave home."
Have your own toilet paper with you and = disinfectant=20 hand wash or wipes just in case. Aquium from Oz or Antis from some = supermarkets=20 in Bali.

I well=20 remember our unspoken preference for eating at the Rama Bridge in Kuta = Square=20 for many years before it was demolished in an upgrade in '06. The = Bintang was=20 icy cold, the food was good and the price was cheap =96 but more = important than=20 any of these was the fact that they had TOILETS =96 not DUNNIES! = Regrettably,=20 things are not as good there as they were, but I=92d still head that way = in an=20 emergency.

For an=20 expose on Bali Toilet use that every (female) traveller should read go = to www.bali= travelforum.com/archive200301/78523.html.=20

I hope the=20 following will grow as more travellers add to the lists =96 =

1.     =20 Rated=20 A++  = TOILETS =96=20 (In which you can take your ease with out concerns.) =96 =
Dirty Duck=20 Restaurant, Ubud. "The Best In Bali" according to =91Mango=92. =
TJ=92s=20 Mexican.
The Balihai Resort, Tuban. (Closed in '07).
You = pay at=20 the Bird Park but it=92s rated at 11/10.
Pacung Indah=20 Restaurant, Ubud  which Rosemary says is the best in = Bali? =20
Bali Qui Restaurant.
Carusoes on the beachfront in = Seminyak.
Poco Loco Restaurant, Legian, but the noise will = drive you=20 mad and they have the worst margaritas in Bali, not the best as they = advertise.=20 Late in '06 there were complaints about the food and the service and = pushy staff=20 trying to sell CD's. "There are much better places within a short stone = throw -=20 -". Drivers are not allowed to wait for you in the car park, nor will = they phone=20 him when you have finished. Not good customer relations.
Bakery = Restaurant at=20 Gazebo Hotel.
Lo=92s Warung.
Kori=92s.=20
Kunyit Restaurant.
Ku-de-Ta.
Aroma=92s = =96 in=20 Legian Street has new facilities (=9202); cleanest and most attractive = in Bali.=20
Macaroni Club.
Kin Khao restaurant, Tuban. Great = hand=20 basins.
La Lucciola Restaurant.
The =91Gunnas=92 = restaurant, the=20 Indo-National Bar & Restaurant on Padma Utara and their old = premises=20 (now Friends Restaurant) Jl Sahadewa 13D between Melasti and Padma = streets,=20
Poppies Restaurant in Poppies Lane (=91Gang=92) I. =
MacDonald=92s=20 Restaurants are also good.
The Neka Gallery in Ubud is worth = a visit=20 for another reason too.
Mamas German Restaurant. =
Paddies=20 Bar =96 there=92s even a bloke to hold the hand towel for you, = perhaps to ensure=20 you don=92t pinch it? 
Peppino=92s restaurant in = Peppito=92s=20 Supermarket, Jl Kediri 36A, Tuban. =93Floors you could eat off=94!  =
Rumours Restaurant in =91Eat Street=92, Jl Laksmana, = Kerobokan.=20
Gracie Kellies Restaurant in the Dynasty Hotel,
Ma = Joly=20 Restaurant, 
Green Garden Restaurant in Centro near the shoe=20 section.
The toilets and = the=20 Kintamani Volcano Pizzas at Papa=92s Restaurant in Legian are = both first=20 class.
Good toilets at Bubba Gumps Restaurant in Tuban/Kuta,=20
The Bali Bakery.
Warung Enak, the Dirty Duck and Lamak = [look up at=20 the toilet ceiling here], all in Ubud;
Crackers Bar & Grill = (also known=20 as the Bar & Bog) in the back left-hand corner of the market in = Bedugul.=20 'Unbelievable' and similar comments.
The new Paddies Bar - = 'Spotless'.
The=20 Kuta Art markets at the beach end - remarkable and so surprising.
The = All=20 Seasons Hotel.
Lumut = Restaurant  - 'the best ever' says Robyn. Jl Danau Tamblingan No = 166 in=20 Sanur.
Ye Olde Fookin Inn in Legian (but I really wouldn't eat at a = place=20 with a name like that).
Poco Loco's, but there are a few steps to = negotiate=20 if your knees are not good and the margaritas are certainly NOT the best = in=20 Bali.
Papas.
Zanzibar Cafe on the = beach-side at Legian. 5*.
 

2.  = Rated=20 D- LOOS =96 (When you really need to go these will do = the job =96=20 but only just.) The Rama Bridge, Kuta Square. The Pantai Restaurant = (much=20 improved in '07) Tuban. The SA Caf=E9, Tuban.  Poppies Lane, Kuta. = Dolphins=20 Leather, Legian. Dewi Sri Restaurant, Kuta. Copa Caf=E9, Tuban. Ramayana = near the=20 Kuta Beach markets. Poppies in Poppies Lane II. Benno=92s Caf=E9 and Bar = in Sanur at=20 Sindhu Beach. Glory Restaurant, The Indo-National Restaurant including = the old=20 site which is now Friends Restaurant, Mamma=92s Restaurant, Munduk = Falls, Sharkeys=20 in Jimbaran Bay. Has it been cleaned up recently? Behind the Stadium = Cafe along=20 a wooden walkway at the rear of the Apotic.
On the beach next to the = Mandira=20 in Legian, by the lifeguards store room. New for the locals in '07 it's = a squat=20 and no, there's no paper or light (!) but it's free and so far it's = clean - but=20 what it will be like in '08 and '09 is anyone's guess.

3. =20 =91Be-rated=92 XXX DUNNIES =96 (You=92ve = really got to be=20 desperate! Never approach these in bare feet or with only thongs or = flip-flops=20 on. Take a deep breath, roll up your trousers, tip toe with the utmost = care,=20 peep around the corner =96 and then decide that you can wait. An old = Aussie=20 bushie=92s trick is to take the jar of sugar with you, sprinkle some in = the corner=20 of the dunny and p*ss on it. It will keep the flies away.)  = The=20 Bintang Supermarket in Legian/Seminyak. All of the restaurants on the = beach at=20 Jimbaran Bay that I've been to. The Matahari Department Store, = Kuta,=20 upgraded in =9202 and now probably fitting into the =91Loo=92 category. = The Sukawati=20 Markets. Fat Yogi=92s restaurant, although there is a suggestion that = new owners=20 in =9204 will make a difference. Denpasar Markets. Bali Rock Restaurant = & Bar=20 (but the rats are very friendly). The Elephant Temple = (in)conveniences =96=20 =91Dim, Dark and Dank=92. Ramayana Department store in Denpasar =91may = be one of the=20 worst in all Bali=92, =91scary=92. =91Can you use a toilet with only one = hand, because=20 your other will be needed to hold your nose.=92 Don=92t ever contemplate = sitting. Sharkey=92s restaurant at Jimbaran Bay. Tirtagganga = between Candi=20 Dasa and Amed. Tanah Lot temple. The public squats on Kuta Beach. The = Strawberry=20 Stop near Bedugul =96 but they have great omelettes. I hope there is no=20 connection. In an underground car park in Denpasar near KFC and the gold = shops.=20 You=92ll know when you=92re close! The Kuta Night = Market.

When all else = fails and=20 disaster approaches, pick the best-looking hotel within an attainable = distance=20 and plead your case. Most have a toilet near the foyer and if your = acting is=20 good enough they might find that extra bit of kindness in order to = prevent an=20 =91accident=92 on their front steps. If you were in this debilitating = state you=20 would be wise to have included a dose or two of Imodium in your Bum Bag = (sorry=20 about the name) so you can leave in dignity.

12.   =20 DRIVERS.

For short=20 trips use a =91Taxi=92 (Beware of those with 'TAKSI' on the roof.) or a = local =91Bemo' (Very cheap, local route, 'seen-better-days', = colour-coded=20 mini buses that roam up and down local roads tooting for passengers. = They're=20 remarkably reliable and good fun. You can sit next to a bunch of = bananas, a cage=20 of chooks (sometimes the cage is not there), a couple of schoolgirls or = the=20 local policeman.)
Some tourists also use them for long distance = transport=20 (Airport to Lovina) after negotiating a fee of the one-way cost to = Lovina plus=20 20% for the driver=92s return trip. This worked out to be a bit over = Rp120,000=20 which is not bad. The name bemo as a derivation of the original Becak = which was=20 a 2 seat carriage pulled by a runner in front shafts like a horse. The = Japanese=20 considered it a slight that a man should work so much like an animal and = devised  a high seated, 3 wheeled bicycle derivative with the 2 = seats in=20 front of the rider whom they therefore did not have to see and could = pretend was=20 not there to offend their sensibilities. When the 'Vespa' invasion = started many=20 were adapted to power these things that became known as 'Becak Bermotor' = ('Becak=20 with motor') or 'BeMo' for short. Most these days are small vans = converted to=20 carry passengers but the name Bemo  sticks.
Blue=20 Bird cabs are honest, others are often not. Look for the name = =91Blue Bird=20 Group=92 and a =91Taxi=92 (not =91Taksi=92) roof sign on the cab as = dishonest operators=20 with rigged meters are also painting their cabs sky blue now. Some other = cabs=20 have =91accelerated=92 meters. Watch out for drivers who do not cancel = the previous=20 trip fare on the meter and therefore charge you that in addition to your = real=20 fare..
Flag fall now (June 2007) Rp5,000 off the street or Rp8,000 if = you=20 phone to call one and the rate / kilometre is Rp2,000. 
Waiting = time=20 Rp20,000 per hour.
For more than 4 people, or with lots of luggage, = take 2=20 taxis.
Don=92t use the travel agents=92 airport to hotel transfer = services=20 unless you=92re on a business-will-pay-for-it trip. Use the taxi voucher = desk at=20 the airport for fixed price trips or if you=92re lightly loaded then = walk out of=20 the airport and turn right at the gate for a line-up of Bluebird = cabs. =20
Some travellers say don=92t hail a cab in the airport unless you = want to be=20 ripped off big-time, but use the fixed price Taxi desk just to the right = as you=20 exit from customs into the turmoil and mayhem of waiting hotel transfer = drivers.=20 This is always significantly cheaper than the transfer charges made by = tour=20 agencies. Other travellers swear by the bargains (and speedy = availability)=20 offered by drivers waiting in the car park. Bargaining is needed and = knowledge=20 of the fixed-rate cab charges is essential.

FARES:- = Petrol prices in=20 Indonesia increased 12% in February '05 so expect the prices hereunder = to=20 increase a bit.
Sanur/Kuta Rp20,000. Sanur/Matahari=92s, Denpasar = Rp15-20,000,=20 a bit more to Ramayana Dept store. Bemos in Sanur Rp1,000 (have the = right money=20 =96 =91no change=92), Denpasar Bemo Rp2,000.

Fares by taxis are (for the daytime =96 there may be a 30% = surcharge at=20 night)-
Kuta /Denpasar Rp 16,000. Kuta =96 Ubud Rp75,000. Kuta =96 = Denpasar=20 Rp16,000.

Seminyak=20 to Sanur =96 Rp30,000.

Airport to=20 Tuban Rp15,000. Airport to Barong (Kuta) Rp 20,500, further into Kuta = Rp25,000.=20 Airport to Legian Rp25,000. Airport to Sanur Rp55,000; (new fare at Sept = =9202=20 rates). Airport to Nusa Dua Rp35,000.  Airport to = Seminyak Rp27,500, (New fare at Sept =9202 rates.)  = Airport to=20 Candi Dasa Rp150,000. Airport to Ubud Rp90,000.

To go=20 further afield a Blue Bird Group taxi from the airport to Kintamani will = cost Rp=20 245,000. Note that you can probably bargain for a Kijang off the street = for an 4=20 hour day for this figure but an organised tour booked through your hotel = might=20 be twice this figure.

Driver and=20 small 4WD Toyota =91Kijangs" can be hired for less = than=20 Rp450,000 per 8 hour day, petrol included. Kijangs carry 3 (+ driver) in = easy=20 comfort =96 4 plus driver without anyone getting too squashed for too = long. Larger=20 capacity mini-buses are available but not common. It=92s so cheap you = can easily=20 take two Kijangs if necessary. An 8-hour day will get you to almost = anywhere on=20 the island and back to your hotel if you don=92t take a 2 hour lunch. In = '07 we=20 noticed that Suzuki vans/buses were taking over from Kijangs on the = streets. The=20 new Kijang evidently has a hefty price tag now and the Suzuki = alternative is=20 being much favoured.

Motor bike=20 hire is not something to be recommended for those without a death wish, = but if=20 you=92re determined you can hire small bikes for about Rp20-25,000/day. = Longer is=20 cheaper. Good to take your own helmet, or buy an old one from = 2nd=20 hand shop. It will be better than the plastic bowl you=92ll be offered = there. You=20 might get a better rate if you offer to leave the helmet with them when = you=20 finish. Be careful to check insurance =96 yours and the bikes. Have an=20 International Licence (About $20 and 10 minutes to fill out the form at = your=20 local Auto Association. You=92ll need a passport size photo.) or get one = locally=20 at a Polisi Station. You will almost certainly be stopped on the road = and your=20 paperwork must be in order or you will need a fat wallet.
Harley = Davidson's=20 are available at PT Dewata Harley-Davidson, Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass No120 A = and B=20 near the roundabout with the statue of the god fighting the serpent. Not = cheap=20 for hire or purchase.
Big bikes for hire and sale also at www.bali-mode.co= m/balibigbikes/index.htm.=20
Europeans driving, or riding motorbikes, are regularly stopped by = police for=20 =91licence checks=92! Donations to the Policemen=92s Ball are welcomed = and reduce the=20 delays.

 

[In August 2006 I heard that a new = branch of=20 the local police had been established with the aim = of curbing=20 and maybe eliminating police corruption. The phone number of this branch = in Bali=20 is 0361 224 111 and is a number that every tourist in Bali who carries a = mobile=20 phone should have entered.

If you believe that you are being = harassed=20 unfairly by the police call thew number and you will be put onto an = English=20 speaking officer who will listen to your complaint and record the name = of the=20 officer(s) which is seen on their lapel or breast patch. The English = speaking=20 officer will then ask to speak to the officer who is confronting you and = address=20 their side of the story and, if necessary, their behaviour.

In at least one reported incident = the re was a=20 remarkable change in approach and the tourist, who was being stung for a = hefty=20 bribe, was invited to proceed on their journey. A minor miracle but a = giant leap=20 forward against both official corruption and tourist angst. Later = reports=20 suggested that this story might be someone's pipe dream but I'll carry = the=20 number just in case its real.]

 

Motorbikes can be=20 hired from Rp25,000/day for an extended period. Shorter hires cost more. = Aussies=20 can be issued with a local licence by taking their home licence and a = passport=20 photo to a Polisi station. If you have not got a home endorsement for = =91bikes you=20 will not get your Bali licence endorsed for them, but some travellers = take the=20 chance that there will not be a close inspection when they are stopped = on the=20 street. If you do hire a bike tie something easily identifiable onto it = because=20 there will be dozens that look just like yours when you park = it.

Make very sure=20 that you have insurance and try to get the hirer to pose with the bike = for a=20 photo. It could be handy when he says you=92ve pranged it and wants you = to pay or=20 tries to keep your deposit.

If = you are=20 determined to drive try Sari Bunga Wangi, a car hire company that seems = to be=20 (unusually?) honest and with full insurance on the vehicles. Just behind = Bamboo=20 Corner Restaurant on Jl Padma Utara (not the one in Poppies Lane). = Kijangs in=20 good condition with insurance (US$1,000) at Rp170,000/day (down to = Rp140,000 for=20 longer periods), Jimnys about Rp110,000. Ph (0361) 751 230.

Perhaps the=20 largest, easily hired vehicle is an open bus that seats up to 13. It is = run by=20 Robbie, ph 0812-390 5045. Costs are about Rp450,000/day which is very = reasonable=20 even without the ice-filled esky Robbie will provide for your = drinks.
A 14=20 seater bus (or less) is available from tour guide John who will get = whatever=20 size vehicle you need. 0815 3609 6305.
Bali Bus for 16. Go to the=20 Indonational Restaurant in Jl Padma and ask Milton for the number of = Pudgi the=20 driver.
A mini bus is available from Made Wira Sanjay +628 1338 763 = 718. Will=20 seat up to 12. Good A/C. Rp700,000 for the day. Not bad compared to = maybe=20 Rp400,000 each for 5 passenger Kijangs.

Dewa Pujana has a=20 7 seat A/C Mitsubishi wagon for hire. Ph 081 2368 7214.

A 9 = passenger=20 vehicle is available at hadbali@gmail.com=20 or phone +6281 2380 8880.

Bemo fares now=20 Rp1,000. Blue Bemo Sanur/Denpasar Rp2,000. Have correct money =96 change = is=20 (gratefully) taken as a tip!

The Perama company runs Shuttle=20 Buses to all points in Bali. They run to sort of regular timetables = and are=20 a great way to meet locals. Fares are very reasonable, for example Kuta = to Sanur=20 is Rp1,500 pp. For fares and timetables search 'Perama' on the = web.

Licensed drivers=20 have plates ending with =91S=92, are insured & not stopped by = police, but=20 they=92re hard to find on the streets.

Most drivers will=20 pick you up anywhere and take you anywhere. A$50 (Rp350,000) for full = day (8=20 hour) trip is the maximum. Regulars, =91in-the-know=92, pay = Rp250,000 for 10=20 hours from their regular drivers.

Be = wary of=20 drivers who appear to get a lot of exposure on the www! They may be very = expensive and not necessarily very good. Generally you=92ve paid too = much if the=20 driver is very anxious to book you up for tomorrow!

  1. The only female drivers = that I have=20 heard of in Bali are;
    Made Marry (known as Merry), Excellent. = Mature lady,=20 single mother of 4, Ph (0361) 754 525, Fax 90361) 722 793, e-mail Kuta_arini@yahoo.com.yk. = ;=20
    Another lady has air con van, 10 years experience and speaks good = English.=20 Ph 75 45 25 or 081 338 705 112.

  2. Wayan Suka, 411 956 = (personally=20 used 1999 from Nusa Dua).

  3. I Made Dera was = at the local=20 stand by entrance to the Balihai Resort in Tuban before it closed and = now=20 works from the Patra until the Holiday Inn/Balihai re-opens in '09. He = will=20 pick you up anywhere and take you anywhere you want to go - not = to=20 places he wants to take you. I have personally used Made from =9299 to = =9108 and=20 will continue to do so. Phone 0818 0559 1202. Made is a very = safe,=20 cautious driver with a remarkable knowledge of all parts of Bali. He's = a great=20 help when you're loaded up with shopping bags. He has a brand new = Suzuki 7=20 passenger vehicle (mid '07) with dual zone A/Cond. with correct = security bolts=20 and a child safety seat to Aus standards. If Made is tied up he'll = make sure=20 that you're not stranded and will get his brother Wayan Kira to fill = in for=20 him. Wayan has a very new Kijang 5 passenger vehicle, also with = separate=20 front and back air conditioning. His direct number is 081 559 182=20 602.

  4. In Lovina we=20 now use Komang Yopen Artawan who works from a small transport = shop=20 opposite the Rambutan Cottages. He is a most delightful young bloke, = familiar=20 with all of the intricacies of the north coast and down to Ubud at = least. He=20 has a quiet sense of humour but not a quiet laugh. E-mail komang_artawan@yahoo.com. = From OS=20 phone +62 813 3836 5761, from within Bali phone 0813 3836 5761. Look = for the=20 little Aussie flag sticker inside his windscreen on the passenger side = and see=20 if he can respond to, 'Aussie, Aussie, Aussie!'

  5. Another driver=20 we have been pleased to use in Lovina is Gede Budiasa, or simply = 'Buddy'. his=20 number is 081 7976 8351.

  6. If you want a=20 driver with Aussie style baby car seat/capsules try Agung Raka on 081 = 916 461=20 298, from Australia 0011 62 81 916 461 298.

  7. Nyoman Nepoyana (***). = Driver &=20 goods freight, contact for carvers, jewellery etc. Quality but not = always=20 cheap. ourchachacha@hotmail.com=20 Ph 912 012

  8. Dewa Made Adiwisma,=20 (*).adiswama@yahoo.com 081 239 13992

  9. Wayan Dira, 081 239 322 = 75.=20

  10. Wayan Sueta & Gusti = Suberta sueta@yahoo.com. Mob 081 239 29762 = (if=20 outside Indonesia call + 62 81 239 29762. Wayan is based in Ubud but = knows all=20 of Bali very well. http://www.hiddenbali.com/ : = Sueta@hiddenbali.com or = @indo.net.id or=20 @hotmail.com.

  11. Agung Sueta, 361 974 = 909, Mob 081=20 239 22957, agungsuta@yahoo.com . Good=20 for off the tourist track. Rp300,000/day.(!).

  12. Bayu Sampurna, 62 818 = 556957.=20

  13. Wayan Merta =96 phone = 081 138 6761,=20 fax 0361 426 826, www.bali-paradise/se= ebali/index.html.=20 E-mail at - wayan@indo.net.id. I have=20 it on good authority that Wayan reads John Grisham novels (that may or = may not=20 attract tourists to him as a driver and guide, depending on your = literary=20 tastes), comprehends and uses English so well that he understands = jokes (now=20 if you think about it that=92s a real test of language and a real plus = when=20 you=92re with someone perhaps 8 hours a day) and his charges are the = same no=20 matter where you are staying or where he is. Unlike a lot of local = drivers=20 he=92ll take you where you want to go, not where he gets most=20 commission.

  14. Magnum. ? http://www.companyon/ Many posts = laud his=20 quality & knowledge. Some postings suggest that when Magnum is = busy the=20 drivers he sends in his place are not as good as he is. Some posts = suggest=20 that single females should not use him.

  15. Sang Made Drama, quadro@indosat.net.id=20

  16. Putu Armada, =91The = Real Bali=92, http://tokek.freeyellow.c= om/page1.html=20

  17. Wayan Nama, namasiwa@yahoo.com. =

  18. Gede Ariana. Has = Mitsubishi Colt 7=20 seater with A/C rather than the more common 3-4 seat Kijang. Good=20 English. Fully insured with Tourist Authority credentials that is = an=20 unusual safeguard amongst drivers in Bali. Usually found outside = Baruna Hotel,=20 Sanur. Ph 361 29 9411 (home), 361 28 9291 (Fax), 8123 955 640 = (Mobile), E-mail=20 ariana_01@telkom.net.=20

  19. Made Suartawan. madesuatawan@hotmail.com=20

  20. Nyoman Suastika. = Excellent English=20 language. Lives near Ubud but will work anywhere in the island without = extra=20 charge. 5 seat A/C Kijang. Ph (0361) 980 027, nyomansuastika@yahoo.com. = A guide=20 to out-of-the-way places as well as a safe driver.

  21. Bali Insight=20 Tours (info@baliinsighttours.com= ) can=20 provide vehicles for larger groups. A little more expensive than most = but if=20 there's more to share the cost does it matter? Aussie owned but local=20 drivers.

  22. www.mademangku.c= om/balidriver_mademangku=20 can access a 9 seater for larger parties.

  23. In Ubud try Wayan = Sarma, usually=20 parked outside the Ananda Cottages, Mob; 081 398 2229, e-mail sarmananda@hotmail.com.=20

  24. Also in Ubud there is = Nyoman Danu,=20 usually at the intersection of Monkey Forest Road and Main Street, = across from=20 the palace. Ph; 978 320

  25. Kung Saga also operates = in Ubud,=20 based near the Lotus Restaurant. Mob; 081 239 78729. E-mail; kungsaga@hotmail.com and kungsags@softhome.net.=20

  26. Nyoman Bagus is also in Ubud, at = the top=20 of Monkey Forest Road. Nyoman_sg@hotmail.com.=20

  27. Made Mangu has=20 received several recommendations in '04 - '05. Ph 081 2393 = 1887.

  28. GD Bali is a=20 transport company that has vehicles ranging from cars to 32 seat = busses. Ring=20 Gusti and say Golden Bali recommended him. Ph 0813 387 404 96. =

  29. Wayan Adiarsa=20 can get transport to accommodate 9 people. Excellent English, = friendly,=20 reliable, cheaper than others, does not push you to his commission = shops,=20 happy to talk on any matter related to Bali, people, culture, = religion,=20 farming etc. http://www.wayanardiarsa.com/.= =20

  30. A = mini nus for=20 12 passengers is available from Beni. 0818 359 079 or benihaan@yahoo.com

  31. Komang also has a 12 seater Isuzu = Elf=20 Minibus. He gets busy so call him 2 or 3 days beforehand - (+62) 812 = 456 6957.=20

 

13.    TIMES and=20 DISTANCES.

I have taken the table out of here and given it a page of its = own so that=20 everything loads a bit faster. Here is a link that will take you = straight there=20 and you can hit the 'Back' button to return here afterwards.  = Time = &=20 Distance table.

Often,=20 western tourists are not prepared for the style of road use and traffic=20 conditions found in Bali. Indeed, many are quite concerned during their = first=20 trip in the more populous areas. There is a veritable sandstorm of small = motorbikes (about 100 cc capacity) weaving in and out of the traffic = with the=20 greatest of comfort and ease, even when they are carrying a family of 5 = and a=20 mile high pile of temple offerings plus a chook or two. The second most = numerous=20 vehicles are small 4 WD-type cars/wagons which are delivering or waiting = for=20 hire.

The=20 drivers of these hire vehicles are the ones who endlessly chant the = call,=20 =91Transport Boss?=92.

Traffic=20 speed is generally quite slow, 10 =96 15 kph being quite common at busy = times.=20 Vehicles drive almost nose to tail, even through corners, and merging = traffic=20 fits into spaces that pedestrian wouldn=92t try to walk = through.

There is=20 no visible road rage or impatience on the island. A toot or two on the = horn is=20 always taken as a =91Please excuse me=92 signal.

 The most frequently asked question that I get from = travellers going=20 to Bali for the first time is one that relates to distances from A to B = and the=20 time such a trip will take. Where the places A and B are well known to = me the=20 answer is easy to provide. For other les familiar places I need to go = through my=20 notes or measure maps. Such an approach does not always take into = account the=20 terrain or the state of the roads or the traffic and the accuracy of the = information is variable.

The=20 table gives distances and very approximate trip times between popular = tourist=20 centres for 4 people in an average, middle-aged Kijang. Times can easily = double=20 at peak hours, in rain, where the road is under repair, if the army is = using the=20 road, if a security guard has stopped the traffic to allow a tourist or = two to=20 cross, if a dog has priority or a flock of ducks is being taken across = the road=20 to a new rice paddy. When two or more of these things coincide there is = no point=20 in trying to hurry. This is a time to enjoy =91jam karet=92 =96 =91Bali = time=92, which is=20 often no time at all.

The sort=20 of information you can get from the table is;

      From the airport to Kuta it is 4 = km and it=20 will take about 15 minutes, very roughly, by = =91Taksi=92.

      From Legian to Bedugul it is 58 = km and the=20 trip will take about 2 hours by Kijang in average = conditions.

      From Sanur to Amed it is 110 km = and the=20 journey will take about 3 and 1/4 hours.

      From Gilimanuk to Kerobokan it = is 145 km=20 and this trip will take about 2 hours.

      Seminyak to Ubud is about 1.5=20 hours.

      Seminyak to Ulu Watu, a bit less = than an=20 hour.

      Seminyak to Tanah Lot =96 Half = an=20 hour.

      Seminyak to Mount Batur =96 2.5 = hours. Ubud=20 to Amed =96 3 hours.

      Ubud to Mt Batur =96 1.5 hours. = Ubud to=20 Lovina 2.5 hours.

If any=20 Bali residents or well travelled tourists would like to check the = accuracy of=20 the information I would be happy to have the = feedback.

14.    ACCOMMODATION =96=20

In the=20 quieter areas of Bali you might want to use earplugs if you don=92t want = the=20 roosters to wake you before dawn.

Be nice to=20 the locals who work in the hotel. They are humans also and the time = might come=20 when they can provide little extra services for you. Kindness, courtesy = and=20 consideration frequently seem to be rewarded in Bali. It is the Balinese = way,=20 part of their very strong culture!

If your=20 hotel has an ice machine(s) it is a traveller's boon. Just fill up a = carry bag=20 before you leave on a trip (or even to the pool for a day) and take your = own=20 food and drinks with you. The now closed Bali Hai had machines on each = floor and=20 the Dynasty has at least one. By contrast the Sheraton at Nusa Dua (and = probably=20 others also) charges outrageous prices for a bag of = ice.

Hotel=20 meals are quite expensive by Bali=92s =91outside=92 standards. Near your = hotel will be=20 a wide choice of restaurants, cafes and =91warungs=92 (the Bali = equivalent of fast=20 food outlets) that will serve you the same food at much cheaper prices. = Quite=20 often now the chefs (cooks) in these establishments also work, or did = work, in=20 the kitchens of the hotels.

It is=20 considered to be the height of rudeness to =91book=92 a sun lounge by = the hotel pool=20 (by placing a personal or hotel towel on it) and then wandering off and = not=20 using it. Europeans have the worst reputation for this, and a reputation = for=20 pugnacious disagreement if their intentions are foiled. Such rudeness = often=20 returns to the perpetrator when the towel has been removed on their = return and=20 the final hotel bill includes payment for the missing item.
If you = want to=20 book on the internet first have a look at www.bali.com/internet_res.= html=20 for the ways in which you can protect yourself from = fraud.

Amongst=20 dozens of others in the following =91Districts=92 lists below, these = hotels are=20 commonly used by travellers;

  1. The now=20 closed Holiday Inn Tuban. (subsequently known as the Bali Hai Resort = &=20 Spa.) was our favourite. A little tired before renovations = began in=20 '04 but now polished and compact, right on the beach, friendly and = quiet, but=20 convenient to the wilder side of southern Bali such as Kuta, Legian. = Kiddy=20 Suites are a bit larger then normal rooms and the Family rooms are = quite a bit=20 larger, particularly in the bathroom and the balcony. Renovations = began in=20 2003 and were still progressing, room by room, in mid '05. The = bathrooms now=20 have new lighting and shower heads with much improved water pressure. = Most A/C=20 units are new ('05) and have remote controls as do the TV's which have = satellite connections. The new king size beds are just superb. There = are=20 in-room safes or a front desk secure room with 24 hour = supervision.
    We are=20 still searching for something that suits us as well as this place=20 did.

  2. Pondok=20 Vienna Beach, Amed/Lipah (far east coast?).

  3. Melasti=20 Beach Resort. Popular but not always lauded. Average breakfasts and = tired=20 staff. (=9204) although others say it is good value for the = cost. The=20 standard room are near the road and some can be noisy. Superior rooms = are=20 nearer the pool. Suites are the best and are beautiful.

  4. Rosani=20 Hotel. A$15 including breakfast. Book through Harvey World Travel.=20

  5. Pondok=20 Sari, Permuteran Bay.

  6. Avoid=20 the Lakeview Hotel at Kintamani. Many visitors would recommend that = you avoid=20 Kintamani totally as you will find there the most unpleasant and = aggressive=20 rip-off merchants in all of Bali.

  7. Villa Ramasi was expensive = but did not=20 please occupants in mid '06 despite looking good on the agent's web=20 site.

  8. At the cheap end of the = scale try the=20 Sinar Bali right in the heart of Legian, off Padma Utara.

  9. In Ubud have a look at = Adi's Cottages=20 right in the middle of the main street, Monkey Forest Road. =

  10. In Lovina there is a range = of levels=20 at the Rambutan Cottages, near the centre of every thing in the north. = Ph 0362=20 41388 or 0362 41621.

  11. In Candi Dasa try for one = of the front=20 bungalows at The Candi Beach Hotel and Bungalows (avoid the hotel = section) or=20 the Grand Natia.

  12. In Sanur we have been very = happy at=20 Bumi Ayu Bungalows in a quiet street that is just a short walk from = the beach=20 and the markets.

  13. Not far from Bumi Ayu is = the Bumas=20 Hotel which some travellers prefer at about the same price with = breakfast, two=20 pools and large, clean and comfortable rooms. Check them both out and = make=20 your own selection.

15.    PLACES RECOMMENDED  BUT SOME LOCATIONS UNKNOWN & OTHERS = DON=92T=20 QUITE FIT INTO A SPECIFIC DISTRICT IN PART 3 (below).

  1. Jatiluwih Rice terraces =96 =91I used a = whole roll of film=20 =96We now know that these are regarded as amongst the most spectacular = of the=20 old sawah=92. They grow some of the best rice in Bali with ears so = heavy that=20 the stem collapses and one stalk falls against another and another and = another, giving the appearance that the gods have had a riotous romp = in the=20 fields. They are up into the foothills of central Bali, a bit to the = west of=20 Lake Bratan and Bedugul. Set aside a day to really enjoy the trip from = the=20 southern tourist areas with plenty of admiration stops along the way. = From=20 Jatiluwih work your way about 3 or 4 Km further west and take in the = quiet,=20 eerie, misty and mysterious temple of Pura Luhur Batu Karu on the = lower slopes=20 of Mount Batu Karu. Little visited by tourists (and I really do hope = that it=20 stays that way) it will work its way into your being. The road back to = the=20 south will take you into and through a small village just below the = temple=20 where, as late as 2006, life appeared to go on as it might have for = centuries=20 with the people meeting and relaxing by the side of the narrow road. A = real,=20 third world, 'far east' experience to slow down and = savour.

  2. Other rice terracing, = covering a whole=20 mountain side down to the coastal plains, can be seen from the edge of = the=20 road to Amed on the east coast. Again, this can be a whole day trip = (but save=20 a roll of film at least), through the fishing village, beach-loading = ferries=20 and sea salt works at Kusamba, the both beautiful and ugly little = Padang Bai,=20 Candi Dasa, Amlapura (stop and see the rural market here), Tirtagganga = where=20 the vast springs have created a palace and a temple with public = bathing pools=20 in wonderful gardens and finally the terraces down towards Culik and=20 Amed.

  3. Kedaton=20 =96 bats and monkeys.

  4. If you're a shopper go to = Sukawati on=20 the way to or from Ubud. This is where many of the street and market = sellers=20 buy their stuff. Don't go if its a public holiday in Java as there = will be=20 umpteen bus loads of them stocking up and blocking up at = Sukawati.

  5. If you want to relax away = from the=20 frenzy of the south then spend a few days at Candi Dasa on the south = east=20 coast or Lovina on the north coast. There are things to do and see in = both=20 places if you want to and in Lovina particularly you will find = restaurants=20 worthy of international clients.

  6. The=20 beach at Padangbai. Up the south east coast beyond Gianyar and = Klungkung towns=20 and Kusamba beach, towards Candi Dasa. A =91Bai=92 (bay) with a split = personality=20 =96 to the west is a commercial ferry port where boats departs for = Lombok and=20 other places and to the east a small village tucked into the curve at = the end=20 of the bay with the clearest, bluest water you could wish to=20 see.

  7. Padang=20 Padang beach. Access is through a cave. Golden sand. Water warm, 3 km = from=20 Uluwatu way down at the southern tip of the Bukit, which is the = plateau 'dot'=20 at the bottom of the map of Bali.

  8. Dreamland Beach is small, but beautiful. Near = Padang=20 Padang beach and the village of Pecatu on the southern Bukit Peninsula = =96further south than Jimbaran Bay or Nusa Dua =96 on the road to the = spectacular=20 cliff-top temple of Pura Uluwatu. There are a few stalls and deckchair = vendors=20 but little else. The local area is popular with surfers. The area and = approach=20 road had a lot of money spent on it when the ill-famed Tommy Suharto = (son of=20 the more famous - or infamous - President) =91bought=92 land from the = local owners=20 intending to develop a tourist money-spinner or an exotic personal = hide-a-way.=20 Since his fall from grace the local land owners have moved back to = re-claim=20 what they perhaps feel was stolen from them rather than purchased and = have=20 systematically destroyed much of the development but now themselves = display=20 the skills (?) that they learnt from Tommy and have set up various = toll roads=20 and road blocks to milk the fatted cow of tourism for their own gains. = In the=20 process they argue amongst themselves and in turn destroy their own = works from=20 time to time. Dreamland Beach has perhaps become the archetypal = paradise=20 within the gates of hell. It=92s still a Dreamland Beach with = startling=20 azure water colour and the unfinished Sukarno beach house. Reports in = early=20 '08 describes the destruction of the friendly warungs and traders, = replaced=20 with yet another luxury hotel. Maybe it's too late to really see = Dreamland? A=20 Kijang and driver who will wait for you costs about Rp150, = 000.=20

  9. Melanting temple near Permuteran on the far = north west=20 coast.

  10. Batu=20 Keru in the coffee growing district in central north Bali has = spectacular=20 scenery.

  11. Tegallalang for handcrafts, especially painted = wooden=20 carvings amongst others. About 6 Km north of Ubud on the road to Mt = Batur, a=20 series of joined villages with Tegallalang about in the middle. Drive = slowly=20 up the steepish road to the end of the roadside shops, checking on = what's=20 available, then get out and walk downhill with your driver following = you to=20 collect your goods. Better goods and prices than Kuta, Legian etc. = Maybe even=20 better than Sukawati.

  12. Tanah=20 Lot temple is on the coast about 15 km west of Denpasar, or about 20 = km=20 northwest from Kuta. It is renowned for the views at sunset but has = become=20 very commercialised over the late 20th century and a 5* = hotel=20 destroys the old ambience of the place. Never-the-less worth a visit. = The=20 markets there have a reputation for different goods. =

  13. Taman=20 Ayung temple at Mengwi, about 15 =96 20 km northwest of Denpasar. = There are=20 photos at http://www.filosbali.= net/PicsNorth2000.htm. =20 Approached across a bridge, lawns and water gardens, you can walk = around the=20 low brick wall and moats that surround the temple and see right into = the inner=20 compounds. The high =91candi bentar=92 (split entrance gates) are = magnificent. Far=20 more peaceful than other temples where there can be aggressive hawkers = and=20 =91temple touts=92.

  14. Uluwatu=20 temple is on a spectacular site high on the limestone cliffs of the = southern=20 Bukit, but there are untrustworthy monkeys, pesky hawkers and off-hand = guides.=20 Legend has it that the temple is the ship of the gods that became = stranded on=20 the coast and turned into the temple. The view straight down over the = edge is=20 a bit scary.

  15. The=20 Mother Temple at Besakih is awesome but the temple 'guides' are = thuggish and=20 demand exorbitant fees for no service. The sellers are by far the = worst in all=20 of Bali. A place to miss, particularly for first-time travellers = despite=20 repeated claims that all this has been cleaned up! Some travellers who = are=20 brave enough to have been several times, recommend entering by the = 'bottom=20 gate' which is supposed to bypass most of the worst = brutes.

  16. There=20 are two Gunung Kawai temples north east of Ubud. The water temple one = has=20 water gardens and fish ponds. It is near the village of Sebatu in the = district=20 of Tampaksiring. The other has huge rock carvings on each bank of the = river=20 although there are a lot of steps to negotiate to see them. Little = known parts=20 of these carvings include a part called the Tenth Tomb and deep = canyons known=20 as the Cloisters. Ask for directions or a guide at the shop nearest = the small=20 bridge.

  17. The temple I cannot resist = every time=20 I pass it is Pura Rambut Siwi perched on the top of a high bluff = overlooking=20 the black sand beaches of the far south west coast on the way to = Negara. Do=20 take a bottle down onto the beach when you go down to see the caves = and the=20 holy fresh water spring and bring back some holy water for your = driver. Catch=20 your breath when you have climbed back up by sitting in the large open = bale=20 and listening to the sigh of the wind in the trees while you look east = and=20 west along those beaches with their fringes of forests and vegetable=20 gardens.

  18. Another temple I have only = recently=20 found ('07) is Pura Baru Pondok Batu (literally the 'Temple on the = Rocky=20 Corner') on the north coast some 30 odd Km east of Singaraja. This is = another=20 temple linked to Danghyang Niratha, the famed 16th century priest from = Java.=20 He wandered all over Bali in a pilgrimage that saw created the well = known=20 temples at Uluwatu and Tanah Lot as well, as Rambut Siwi. Here there = is a holy=20 fresh water spring that runs out of the shingle beach at the foot of = the=20 temple and again a collection for your driver will be welcomed. The = most=20 strict preparations for  temple visits are applied here. Temple = dress of=20 sarong and sash are absolute requirements and the priests purification = (slightly modified for tourists) will save much embarrassment and = refusal of=20 entry to the sacred enclosures.

16.    BALI and=20 the BALINESE in brief.

Bali is one of the 27 = provinces of the=20 Republic of Indonesia, with a population of just under 3 million (2007) = of=20 Indonesia's 210,000,000 plus people. It is distinguished from almost all = of the=20 rest of Indonesia by following the Agama Hindu religion. It is one of = the=20 thirteen and a half thousand islands in the Indonesian Archipelago that = make up=20 the country of Indonesia, but what an island it is!

Between two other = significant islands,=20 Java (the main government island) and Lombok, Bali is almost = insignificant in=20 size being only 140 kilometres right to left (or east to west) and just = a bit=20 more than half of that from top to bottom (or north to south), Bali is = home to=20 about 3 million people. The western visitor would be forgiven for = thinking it=20 could be driven around in a day. You need to see the terrain, the roads = and the=20 traffic to understand why you should not plan your holiday around this = concept=20 although in a day from the tourist south you can go to any part of the = island=20 and return for a dip into the hotel pool before a late dinner.

In order to help this file = load more=20 quickly the remainder of this section has been given a page of its own. = You'll=20 find it at this link - 'Bali and the = Balinese in=20 brief' - and you will return here when you close it.

 

 

 

PART 3 =96 DISTRICT INFORMATION.

 

# = 1 -=20 TUBAN/KUTA = DISTRICT=20 SECTION.

For the = story of one=20 of our stays in this area, with some photos, click on this link - http://www.filosbali= .net/Pics2000TheInn.htm.=20

Get = around locally in=20 a light blue coloured Blue Bird Group Taxi (avoid those others with = 'TAKSI' on=20 the roof light) from Tuban to Legian costs Rp40,000 or bargain with any = one of=20 the dozens of drivers on the street just outside your hotel for longer = trips.=20
Some newer Blue Bird Group taxis are in other colours (and I swear I = saw one=20 with 'TAKSI' on the roof light one night) but they all have a roof light = with=20 the stylised blue bird as a crest on top of the roof light. They always = run the=20 meter without asking and the rates are not rigged. On one trip to BIMC = from=20 Seminyak in June '06 another cab charged me a metered Rp75,000 for the = trip (and=20 I had to point out the short route for the driver) but I returned in a = Blue Bird=20 for less than Rp50,000.

Look also = at these=20 following headings in the Legian/Seminyak section (the next section) as = the=20 boundaries are not clear between all of these = districts.

SHOPPING

Beware of temporary tattoos. Many=20 people have severe reactions to the chemical cocktail called PDD which = is used=20 instead of real henna, and which is toxic and can cause liver and kidney = problems. Most severe in children. Refer to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html .=20 Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief. Researchers in = Germany have=20 also uncovered a link between temporary tattoos and permanent, lifelong=20 dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). Sufferers remain allergic to = some=20 metals, detergents and foods.
Be even more careful of permanent = Tattoos.=20 Ensure that you un-seal any sterile equipment and that you see the gun=20 sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes as these can also transmit = Hep C.=20 Matahari=20 Department store, Kuta Square by Kuta markets. A large, western style = store,=20 with a reliable PT Central money changing agency and ATM's.
Norman = (Nyoman?)=20 at Bali Aromas opposite Kartika Plaza Hotel has also been recommended as = an=20 honest moneychanger. See lists of both honest and crook money changers = in the=20 'MONEY' section above.

Supernova=20 Store. On Jl Raya Kuta a bit south of Bemo Corner. Go east along Jl = Bakung Sari,=20 right at the lights into Jl Raya Kuta, + 200 metres to corner of Jl = Mekar Sari.=20 Some surprisingly cheap goods and a little gem up on the first = floor.
Mall=20 Bali Galleria is on Jl Raya By Pass Ngurah Rai. It is similar to the = Galleria in=20 Nusa =96 maybe not quite so expensive but some exquisite = shops.

Macro=20 Super Store is on Jl Ngurah Rai By Pass, No. 222X, SESETAN, Denpasar = 80223,=20 between Sanur & Suwung village, on the left going from Kuta to = Sanur. Taxis=20 know it well. A$1 to enter. No children allowed. No free bags for goods. = Very=20 cheap prices for bulk purchases. http://www.makro.co.id/. =

Alpha=20 Store. Jl Imam Bonjol Kuta. Easier to enter than Macro. " . . from a = needle to=20 an anchor . . ".

K Circle=20 (or Circle K) Supermarkets are becoming fairly common. They are not = quite as=20 cheap as others and are owned and franchised from =91off-shore=92. = Smaller locally=20 owned street stores are usually better for drinks etc. as well as being=20 convenient to most hotels.

Pepito=92s=20 Supermarket in Tuban on the road towards the airport, about =BD Km past = the dogleg=20 to the left in the road. It has a good range of all the usual = supermarket lines=20 and a range of nice cut flowers and potted plants as well. These make = nice=20 gifts.

Next door=20 to Pepito=92s is SVS Meats. Factory run by German ex-pat. Very clean. = Try the=20 smoked meats for nibble with a Bintang or two pre-dinner.
There is a = wine and=20 spirits shop on Jl Legian about 20 paces on your left as you leave Bemo = corner=20 walking (?) towards the airport.
The new kid on the supermarket = block is=20 Carrefour, of French origin on Sunset Road, Legian. It is huge and = following the=20 grand opening in '07 had great prices.

LEATHER =96=20 Remember that you will only get the quality that you pay = for.

  1. Dolphins=20 Leather =96 coats, jackets, handbags, trousers and also shoes. Our = favourite=20 since 1993. Sahadewa Street, between Melasti & Padma Streets, = Legian. 755=20 278. They don=92t use goatskins. They do use good quality thread, = zips, linings,=20 etc. Frequent Forum recommendations over several years. Calf = length,=20 multi panel leather and suede coat Au$150 mid '05. Short jackets = Au$95. Top=20 quality assured. A button fell off one year and a phone call brought a = repair=20 man to the hotel in 20 minutes. Many apologies and 2 spare buttons = too.=20
    Friends new to Bali sought their own supplier in '03 and were very = pleased=20 with their coats bought at a much reduced cost; the maker accepting = their=20 offers of lower and lower prices for each successive purchase. They = thought=20 they had this bargaining thing beaten. Later at home it rained a bit = when they=20 were out and about and the coats took on an unpleasant and growing = odour. A=20 local leather merchant asked them to leave his shop when they sought = his=20 assistance! The leather was not sheep and had not been fully tanned. = Money,=20 literally, in the rubbish bin.

  2. Ouizis,=20 Legian/Kuta. Down alley.

  3. French=20 Leatherwear, Jl Sahadewa #4 off Melasti. See =91Mat=92. Not cheap, =BE = length sheep=20 leather coat A$135 April =9202. Some unhappy customers in = 2002.=20

  4. Leather=20 =96 Brown Sugar. Jl Padma, Legian. Seemed closed and very empty in = June '06. May=20 reopen when tourism picks up or perhaps even when a new lease is = successfully=20 negotiated.

  5. Leather.=20 Jl Legian, opposite Loji II Mini Market.

  6. Padma=20 leather, Suede jacket A$50.

  7. Nickels=20 Leather not good. Top end of Legian.

  8. Avoid R=20 & A Leather near McDonalds in Kuta =96 bad measure/fit. Repeated = warnings=20 from sad customers.

  9. Soldig=20 Leather. Small side street off Legian road. Suede jacket copied from = photo=20 A$180 =96 original $2000. Their standard designs are cheaper. =

  10. Lembi=20 Leather. Run by Made (=93Marrrday=94), he will come to your hotel with = a full=20 range of leather samples and catalogues. His English is good (perhaps = as a=20 result of his Oz wife?). Be measured and fitted in privacy and = the=20 coolness of your A/C room. He will frankly talk to you about the = various=20 qualities of leather he can offer and your finished work WILL be in = the=20 leather you select. Ph 0812 394 309 or 758 233. His shop is in Tuban = but=20 difficult to find. www.bali-paradise.com/lembi .=20 Very popular with Forum posters in 2002.

  11. TAILORS. =96=20 Again, remember that you will only get the quality that you pay for. = An '05=20 report on the Bali Travel Forum of a stitching split on a new suit = from Anika=20 Tailors is another confirmation that cheap is not always good. You = might agree=20 on a price for an item but they have the last say in the quality that = matches=20 your price.

  12. Tommy Tailor a bit further = down Jl=20 Wana Segara towards the beach in a newish group of shops with roller = shutters=20 set back off the street a bit.

  13. Rhamadan=20 Tailors, =91James=92, Poppies II.

  14. Marrenda=20 Tailor, Kartika Plaza St, Tuban.

  15. Bali=20 Sun, tailor, Jl Legian north of Melasti.

  16. Linda=92s=20 Tailors, middle of Melasti Street. Jacket, pants and skirt (their = microfibre=20 material) A$80. Take your own material if you want something = particular. This=20 applies to all tailors. Ask for John. =9312 complex pieces copied = beautifully=20 for US$100 in 3 days=94.

  17. Tidy=20 Tailor, 759 403, near Waterbom Park opposite Dynasty in Tuban.=20

  18. Tailor,=20 next to Hotel Intan =96 lane by Kodak =96 =91Sarah=92. =

  19. TopJas=20 Tailors. Lane off Kartika Plaza opp Bakung Beach Cottages Tuban. Past = other=20 tailors. Aus$28/pr slacks including material.

  20. Exclusive Tailors under All Stars Caf=E9 = Kartika Plaza.=20 Perfect Ball Gown Aus$50.

  21. Mr=20 Ansor. Brisbane Tailors. High quality tailoring at very cheap prices. = Rp40,000=20 to make up shirts of trousers from your material. In Jl Padma Utara = turn right=20 at the end of Bali Dwira Hotel. He=92s about 50 paces down the 3 = Brothers Lane=20 on the left.

  22. Franks=20 in Padma Street.

  23. Rochman=20 the Tailor, in a small street behind Matahari=92s in Kuta. A fairly = large order=20 of men=92s and women=92s clothes (14 items in total) worked out at = A$38 per=20 item.

  24. Not=20 Goanna Tailor, close to Ramayana.

  25. Janako=20 Tailors. Poppies II. Women=92s business suit A$100, fully lined = (material=20 included), simple skirt A$35.

  26. Alus Tailor and Boutique. = Run by Asri=20 Mara who has excellent English abilities. Recommended tailoring over = many=20 years. Also a member of the local Rotary Club, she can place donations = left=20 for orphanages and schools.

  27. Anika Tailors was seriously canned in = mid =9105.=20 Price, cut, fit and courtesy all left much to be desired but early in = '06 it=20 was praised to the sky by fussy customers. On Jalan Dewi Sartika (was = Kartika=20 Plaza) in Gang Melati, No7. Ph (62-361) 754 580.

  28. Bikinis,=20 small lane off Poppies 2. A clothing factory. A$15 / pair. You can get = other=20 clothes made here also.
    GENERAL STUFF.     =

  29. Milo=92s, Kuta Sq., entrance to markets = - SILK.=20

  30. Dijon=20 Deli near Kuta/Tuban. At the round-a-bout with statue of God coiled in = serpent, about half way between Kuta and Sanur on the Jl By Pass = Ngurah Rai.=20 Go right around the garden centre on the corner to face Le Bake = Caf=E9. Go right=20 again and straight across the road. Less than 100 metres off the By = Pass.=20 European and Aussie goods. Imported =96 not cheap. Kuta Poleng Mall, = Jl=20 Setiabudhi. 759 636. E-mail dijonfs@indosat.net.id. = There is a=20 funny upside down map on their site under =91About Dijon =96 = Location=92. http://www.dijon-bali.com/=20

  31. Makro=20 Wholesale Supermarket, save in bulk. Rp5000 to enter, which is now = part of=20 your final bill rather than being an up-front charge. Take your own = carry bags=20 as those you will otherwise have to buy there are not too strong. Go = early in=20 your trip for maximum savings. Near Kuta, the airport and Sanur on the = By Pass=20 road. All drivers will know it.

  32. Factory=20 Stock Centre, Kuta Square Blok H #15 =96 clothing.

  33. Surf=20 wear Factory Outlet on Jl Ngurah Rai By Pass.

  34. Ratu Silver, 373 Jl Legian =96 Mr Masadi. =

  35. Rajawali=20 Silver.

  36. Bujangga=20 Silver, Jl Tuban, Kuta =96 road to airport.

  37. Surfer=20 Girl.

  38. Sarongs=20 5 for Rp100,000 on beach in front of Ramada Bintang Resort. See = =91Adi=92.=20

  39. WATCHES =96=20 Watches at Ubud and Sukawati Markets seem to be different in styles to = the=20 southern areas.

  40. Tony=20 Morone has a little shop and a street-side stall on the left as you go = down Jl=20 Wana Segara, towards the beach in Tuban. He's a bit on the beach side = of half=20 way. 759 933. Excellent and current range. Reliable. =

  41. Eddie=20 Murphy. On the beach at Bintang Hotel, Tuban.

  42. For genuine watches and = for repairs to=20 genuine watches try the Duty Free Shoppers next to Matahari at the big = rpundabout on the Sanur By-Pass road.
    Cartier watches are at the = agents in=20 Plaza Indonesia in Jakarta.
    There is a better than usual repairer = and new=20 watcg and clock opposite Ramayana in Denpasar.
    Genuine watches are = about=20 50% of Australian prices.

  43. Arifah,=20 Shop No 22 at the Kuta markets. Good price if you=92re a good = bargainer.=20

  44. Shop=20 almost opposite Dolphins Leather in Sahadewa St. for shoes/sandals. = See note=20 above.

  45. Fixed=20 price. Bagus Electronics, Legian St.

  46. Shoes=20 off the shelf. Ibu Striadi, Nyoman Rimpen, Shop No 93, Kuta Markets. = Right=20 down the back.

  47. CD=92s and software. Kuta is = dearer than=20 Denpasar. Be wary of the DVD=92s, videos, PS1 & 2 games, etc from = shops=20 around the Kuta markets. Insist that you see them work =96 in the = better shops=20 you won=92t have to ask.

  48. Engineering and more general program = software =96=20 Softcomp Centre. Two shops in Kuta =96 Jl Legion Kelod No 408C and = Poppies II.=20 E-mail softcomp_2000@yahoo.com for list of titles. See other software = outlets in the=20 Denpasar District section, below.

  49. Quality=20 jewellery. Mayang Bali. Between Kuta = markets and=20 Matahari. Not all items are very expensive. Much better quality = than=20 you will find in the markets and street stalls. Your girlfriend will = know the=20 difference.

  50. Melasti=20 Street markets, also known as the Legian markets. Not so pushy. = Several=20 fixed price shops.

  51. There is an Animale = factory outlet in=20 the back of Legian which ladies go ape over. Better still but without = the=20 name, is No 102 just up the road. Two floors of different stuff that = you=20 probably wont find in the markets or anywhere else, and its fixed = price=20 too.

  52. Kuta Art=20 Market No 97. Ni Wayan Suri. Cheaper than Tootsies in Sanur!=20

  53. Wiras=20 Fabric. Turn right off Jl Raya Kuta when coming from the airport (not = near=20 Bemo Corner in Kuta). Best range of fabrics =96 silks, cotton, = furnishing=20 fabric, sheeting, netting, ikats sarongs kebayas (upper female = garment), and=20 scarves.

  54. For=20 different gift ideas try Bali Boxes, Jl Dyana Pura 4, Kuta. Ph = (62-0361) 731=20 415 or 731 637. www.baliboxes.com/f= rame/bbs_front.htm=20 .

  55. Kuta=20 Galleria, (not the Mall Bali Galleria), is similar to the one in Nusa = Dua and=20 also not cheap. Has a great International fabric shop, Alta Moda = Fabrics, Unit=20 1A, No 25-29, ground floor. English wool =96 Rp124,00/metre, Italian = embroidered=20 linen =96 Rp101,500/metre, etc. There are no =91market=92 shops here = but the goods=20 are all high quality at better than home prices.
    There is also an = Ace=20 Hardware which is good for blokes to brose in while the Ladies are off = elsewhere in the shops.
    Snack and coffee at Cherry=92s Caf=E9 is = nice.    =20

  56. Bikes make great gifts for = rural=20 families too poor to afford a motor bike and for sponsored or orphan=20 children.
    There is a bike shop called = Rodalink at=20 91 Jl Teaku Umar (near a hearing aid shop) where parts are about a = third of=20 the Australian prices for identical stuff.
    There is another, Denon = Bikes,=20 on Jl Diponegoro, Denpasar.
    Bikes can be bought from Nusantara on J = Raya=20 Kuta almost next to the Supernova Department store entrance = (0361763164) from=20 Rp400,000.
    Makro Super Store on the main airport-Sanur road also = stock a=20 variety of bikes. About Aus$60 in '06.
    There is a huge bike shop in = Kuta,=20 not far from Bemo Corner on the road to Denpasar. Just over the river = bridge=20 and before KFC on the right hand side.
    In Jl Gunung Agung in = Denpasar there=20 are several bike shops selling both new and second-hand bikes and = parts. Also=20 in Jl Hassanudin ('Gold street') on the opposite side to the gold = shops.=20 Chinese owned you can bargain there better than other places.
    Bikes = are a=20 welcome gift to Balinese friends and come in several qualities, not = always=20 obvious from the price. One clue is to tip the bike upside down and = check the=20 frame welds on the bottom of the joints. Any holes here will admit = moisture=20 and the frame will rust internally - not obvious until it breaks. Most = Balinese do not need gears unless they are riding in the mountains. = Given the=20 Balinese common disregard for any sort of regular maintenance of most = things=20 mechanical, gears are just another thing to quickly go wrong and not = work. In=20 '09 a good bike without gears cost Rp750,000 fully equipped with = carrier,=20 front basket and lock. This is just over Aus$100 at the exchange rate = then.=20 Add gears and you can just about double the price. Children's bikes = seem to be=20 about 2/3 to 3/4 of adult prices.

  57. Skates (boards) and=20 accessories can be found at the Motion Skateshop, Jl Legian No155, = Kuta. Ph=20 (1361) 754 918. E-mail baliskateshop@yahoo.com . =
    * Also=20 Element Shop, Kuta Square by McDonalds.
    * Also on Jl Legian there = are=20 three; Frenz, Zoo York and next door is Extreme Toys.

  58. Jenny Shop 29 in Gang = Samudra, the=20 lane that runs down to the Pantai Restaurant from Jl Kartika Plaza in = Tuban,=20 is a fixed price shop and very competitive. Its 2 or 3 from the = end.=20

  59. Rama is a fixed price shop = down a lane=20 which goes towards the beach about 50 metres to the right of the = Dynasty entry=20 on Jl Kartika Plaza. This might be Gang Samudra. Fashion tops and = jackets,=20 handbags, watches - all very cheap. The owner is Hanny. Ask for her = and the=20 locals will show you. Sizes up to Australian 14.

  60. Toys and Radio = controlled=20 Models.
    The Jingga RC shop is still at No9X on Kartika Plaza = street in=20 Tuban. Now run by Andrew Suryanto (Mob. 081 338 518 951) it has a = selection of=20 cars, boats and 'planes. Ph 7400 511. jinggarc@yahoo.com.
    The Big = Boys Toy=20 Shop is run by Pieter Adhiwishnu in Poppies Lane II, down the side = lane =20 next to Koris Restaurant. The phone is 0818 0561 2932, Fax 702 529, = E-mail jinggashop@yahoo.com. Prices = are=20 cheaper that in Australia. E-mail      adhiwishnu@yahoo.com, Ph +62 = 81 338 577=20 693.
    Another Radio = Controlled=20 Model shop in Bali is PT Easy Comp Indonesian Jl Raya Kuta at number = 68. Their=20 phone is 62 361 741 1861 and their e-mail is rc-bali@cbn.net.id. As with all = things=20 its wise to know your home prices before shopping in Bali.
    There are good quality toy = cars for=20 collectors in Matahari (not in the cheap toy section. 'Cararama' = brand, 1:43=20 scale - Rp99,000. Also in the electrical section of the new Discovery = Plaza on=20 the top floor.

EATING -=20 =91

There are=20 almost more restaurants, warungs and Cafes in Bali than there are = shrines and=20 temples. The quality of your food will sometimes depend on the = individual chefs=20 at the time and the service can vary as the staff goes on and off=20 shifts.

=91Poppies=20 is a rip-off,=92 it=92s been said. =96 Well, if it is you=92ll get = ripped off by=20 friendly staff and get a good meal in a nice = atmosphere.

  1. Pantai Restaurant, has an absolute beachfront site on Jl Wana = Segara,=20 Tuban. Ph 753 196. Sunset dinner or breakfast. Our most=20 favourite. Unbeatable million-dollar location as the sun goes = down on the=20 beach and the fishing boats light up.  Fransiskus = Ruben is=20 the manager and the apple of his eye is his little daughter Ema=20 Christina. Renovated 2000 but a pity the toilets are just=20 6/10. Another renovation in '07 lifted them to 7/10. Onion soup, = Seafood=20 Cocktails, crabs (small by Aussie standards but tasty) and other = seafood,=20 Indo, burgers etc. etc. The resident dog, Cha Cha, was owned by = one of=20 the staff and tolerated by all. He was a sleepy 7 year old trickster = who loved=20 your breakfast bacon. Friends will be sad to hear that he passed away=20 peacefully late in '04 but a white local was slowly taking his place = when we=20 were there in mid '05 and remained in control of the 'Front Office' in = '06.

  2. Ma Joly is a new ('03) = restaurant=20 right next to the Pantai on the beach at Tuban. An up-market = establishment,=20 with prices to match, it has a lovely ambience but not quite the same = beach=20 outlook as the Pantai. For very special occasions.

  3. SA=20 Caf=E9, Jl Wana Segara, #31 = Tuban. 754=20 551.  Our second favourite. Try to get the raised = =91bale=92=20 with the tiled floor by the shrine in the corner furthest from the=20 beach. Good food, great value. Pity about the toilets, 4/10 even = after a=20 re-work in 2001. The owner is Dr Wayan, a member of the Indo = government who is=20 happy to talk to tourists when he is there.

  4. Kin=20 Khao, Thai. Jl Raya = Seminyak #37,=20 Kuta. 732 153. High on our list.

  5. Fat=20 Yogis Kuta. Forget it unless you only want pizza. Some of the worst = food we=92ve=20 been served. =91How can you destroy noodles?=92 =91Is this chicken = soup or chicken=20 s=97t?=92 Indifferent service. Crook toilets.

  6. Daddies,=20 breakfast, Tuban. Opposite the Dynasty.

  7. Poppies=20 in Poppies Lane 1. Reliable and good. Generally don=92t overcook = seafood.=20

  8. Hooeys -=20 breakfast <Rp10, 000. (Peanuts Disco - traffic lights - left - = half-minute=20 walk.) Run by Felix. For teenagers and a bit above.

  9. Burger=20 Bar front of Hooeys, Melasti St. (Currywurst Roll**) Run by Kim & = Eddy, 24=20 hours.

  10. Indus,=20 Jl Rayan near Pita Maha Hotel.

  11. Rajas=20 Cafe in Kuta Square was the site of one of the second Bali bombings = and they=20 have now relocated to the first floor of the building next to the = Bintang=20 Supermarket on Jl Legian. On the night we were there in June '06 12 of = the=20 staff on duty were on staff at the original site and 2 were there at = the time=20 of the bombing. The new location is open along one side which looks = down over=20 the Bintang car park and Jl Legian. It is very pleasant restaurant and = the=20 food is good and great value for money. We urge Aussies going to Bali = to=20 patronise Raja's and by so doing give the terrorists the single finger = salute.=20 If Raja's survives they have not won.

  12. Bali  Cyber Caf=E9 is actually = in Legion but=20 its so good for both internet connections and food that it deserves a = mention=20 here too. At No9, Komplex Sriwijaya, Jl Patih Jelantik, = Kuta-Legian.=20

  13. Bali=20 Too, Jl Melasti. (Particularly breakfast, Rp10,000). =

  14. Taman=20 Gardens =96 (Taman Legian?) , Jl Melasti, Rp10,000 breakfast. =

  15. Antar=20 Caf=E9, Kuta.

  16. Bagus=20 Pub, poppies Lane 2. (Forum mtg. place.)

  17. Ketty=20 Club, Poppies II,

  18. Kori=92s, Kuta.=20 Poppies Lane 2. 758 605. Not cheap but nice. Another=20 favourite. Try the romantic little hut at the back of the=20 restaurant. Seating on cushions on the floor (no skirts please.) = There is=20 an enclosed air conditioned billiard room with separate bar, just to = the right=20 as you enter.

  19. Goa=20 2000, Kuta.

  20. Mad=92s=20 (Made=92s?) Warung I ( BEDROOM Pande Mas =96 755 297 Kuta) & II=20 (Seminyak).

  21. T.J=92s.=20 Poppies Lane Kuta. 751 093 A favourite. Great Mexican. Toilets 3/10 = after=20 we=92ve had a drink or two! 'Not the same anymore' was the = lament of one=20 traveller in '08.

  22. La=20 Teras, Kuta (?).**** $$$$

  23. Fukutura, (Japanese) Jl Legian, in Paradiso = Hotel,=20 Kuta.

  24. Green=20 Garden, free head massages while you wait. (2000). Spring rolls, = garlic=20 prawns, saut=E9 sticks.

  25. Kartika,=20 on top of supermarket near Dynasty for breakfast, burgers and steaks.=20

  26. Padma=20 Restaurant. (not hotel), seafood.

  27. Bali=20 Aussi - going downhill? Surly staff? V cheap breakfast, Rp7500 all u = can eat.=20 Patrons threatened by staff with knives and broken bottles for arguing = about=20 extra items on their bill !!! (=9203).

  28. Warung=20 96, Poppies II. Lunch & dinner. Very popular. At night patrons = queue to=20 enter. Cheap and quick service. American or Indonesian. B/f Rp 6,000, = Great=20 pizzas & Nasi Goreng under Rp10,000. Highly recommended.=20

  29. Aromas =96 vegetarian. Great = selection of=20 fabulous food =96 even for a non-vegetarian! Garden setting. Great = toilets.=20

  30. Mamas=20 German Restaurant is something of a icon in island restaurants now. On = Jl=20 Legian but towards the Kuta end. Open 7/24.

  31. Papas.=20 Jl Pantai, Kuta. Great coffee =96 good meals. In 2006 there were = complaints that=20 the prices here had sky-rocketed beyond reason - entree garlic prawns = Rp62,000=20 !!!!

  32. Bali=20 Aroma, Kartika Plaza (birds outside).

  33. C-Line=20 Art Caf=E9, now 'Garis Garis' is at 33 Jl Kartika Plaza, Tuban. Ph 751 = 285. Very=20 clean and good food. Next to the Ramada Bintang Hotel. =

  34. Metro77X, opposite Go-carts. Highly=20 recommended.

  35. Dayu 1=20 next to Nagasari in Kuta. Also good happy hour.

  36. La=20 Lucciola Rest. Book 703 838 *$*$*$*$.

  37. On the beach at the back = of La=20 Lucciola is Alang Alang which deserves to be better known. It is the=20 restaurant of the Samaya Hotel at the end of Jl Laksmana in Kerobokan, = the=20 next district north from Seminyak. The menu frequently changes but = that only=20 means there is a wider choice of the European chef's delicious=20 offerings.

  38. Nagasari, Kuta. Average prices =96 live = local=20 bands.

  39. Chi Chi,=20 Mexican. Tuban.

  40. Bakery=20 in foyer of Kuta Paradiso and small hot dog stand just outside = entrance.=20

  41. Bali=20 Seafood

  42. La=20 Monde. Jl Padma Utara on top of Loji=92s supermarket. =

  43. Bad=20 Billy=92s (or Billy=92s) Jl Sahadewa up from Bali Qui =

  44. Nusa=20 Indah Bar & Restaurant Poppies I opposite Masa Inn. Clean, good = selection,=20 always hot and good staff.

  45. YUM CHA:=20 Emma=92s, Galleria Kuta behind round-a-bout. (Recommended by Chinese = nationals.)=20 Matahari=92s Food Hall.

  46. Coconut=20 Wharf =96 Ramada Bintang Resort. Tye Kartika (?) above the supermarket = by the=20 Santika entry. All-you-can-eat dinner and show Rp50,000 =

  47. Chi=20 Chi=92s. Upstairs near Waterbom Park. Free Internet while you=92re = there.=20

  48. Restaurant opposite Dynasty Hotel. Rp22, 000 = great=20 breakfasts! Internet upstairs Rp300/min.

  49. Tanjung=20 Pinang warung has more to offer than the look of just another local = warung.=20 Chinese stye offering steamed fish (not only grilled), mud crabs and = prawn=20 amongst other choices. Usually crowded when there is a holiday in Java = (now=20 there=92s a good clue) it should be sampled at any time. =

  50. The=20 Ledgend Restaurant in Sahadewa street Legian. Good for kids as well as = adults.=20 Entertainment. Across the road is Billy's Bar..

  51. Albion=20 Satay House. Rp12,000 breakfast. A$2.00!

  52. Appertite Restaurant Jl Kartika Plaza south = of Ramada=20 Bintang. Nice setting. Good food. Good wine list =96 Margaret River = wines=20 Rp95,000 =96 A$17 !!!

  53. Prawita was a beaut place = but in '06=20 it was to be avoided.

  54. Uns=20 Paradise Restaurant. Just off Poppies I near Legian street. Frequently = live=20 music which is good, as is the food and service and the = toilets.=20

  55. Tubes in=20 Poppies Lane II for the young and young-at-heart. Free movies all the = time and=20 surfing videos too.

  56. The=20 Bagus Pub is not =91bagus=92!

  57. Flora=20 Hotel =91Roast Nite=92 is fabulous.

  58. Bamboo=20 Corner in Poppies Lane 1 is much better than the Bamboo Corner in Jl = Padma=20 Utara. Great food and great prices. Often a queue waiting for tables. = Three=20 courses for two including a whole baked snapper, plus drinks for=20 Rp75,000

  59. Kedins=20 Caf=E9 also in Poppies 1 is cheap but not good food. =

  60. Jensens=20 in Jl Bakung Sari. Clean restaurant and v. good toilets. Karaoke=20 entertainment. Happy hour midday =96 8 pm.

  61. Bali=20 Aget, also in Jl Bakung Sari. Good food and prices. Happy hour 5-8.=20

  62. Secret=20 Garden Inn. Poppies Gang I, just past mid way going towards beach. A = very=20 charming, small, losmen-like property. Great beds, large fridge. = Secluded in=20 wonderful gardens and a central pool. Wonderful service from all staff = and=20 great breakfasts. New about '04. Disappointing report in mid '07  = that=20 the rooms have suffered badly from neglect - peeling paint, mould = stains holey=20 linen, very dark inside despite the omission of light shades. Even at=20 Rp200,000 a night there must be better value around. =

  63. The=20 Appetite, in Tuban, close to Santika Hotel, south of Ramada Bintang. = Used to=20 be the Palm Cove. Beautiful food in nice surroundings but not cheap. = Try the=20 kebabs skewered with lemon grass. Margaret River wines from = Rp95,000.=20

  64. Impala=20 Seafood between the Dynasty and Kartika hotels. Indonesian and western = menus.=20 Small, Med or large serves. If new to the local cuisine try lots of = small=20 serves for the experience.

  65. Gateway=20 of India near Bemo corner. For lovers of this cuisine the food and = service is=20 good although the ambience is not like Seminyak. Also in Seminyak and = Sanur.=20

  66. Star of=20 India.

  67. Kubuku=20 Restaurant & Bar in Poppies Lane I. Extensive quality menu and = good value.=20 Friendly staff. Consistent recommendations.

  68. The Tree=20 House, Poppies Gang I about half a Km from the beach end. (No, it's = not really=20 a tree house.) Three courses for 4 people with drinks for less than Rp = 200,000.

  69. Brasil=20 Caf=E9. On Jl Benesari between Jl Legian and Poppies. Lunch with = drinks for 4=20 for less than Rp85,000.

  70. Asian=20 Spice. Fantastic Dim Sum. Fast food but exquisite. Good toilets. = Lunches=20 about Rp50,000 for 2, dinner app Rp100,000.

  71. Kunyit=20 Bali Restaurant on Jl Kartika Plaza. Rijstaffel dinners (=91rice = table=92)=20 Rp120,000 for two. Great food and great value.

  72. Pepito=92s=20 supermarket is fairly new in Tuban (=9203) and not the place you would = normally=20 look for a quality Bavarian restaurant but Peppino=92s Restaurant is = well worth=20 a visit. The toilets are very user friendly too. Jl Kediri, 36A, Ph = 759 112,=20 ext. 279.

  73. Dewi Sri=20 Restaurant on Jl Kartika Plaza. Great seafood =96 from tank to you via = a=20 sparkling kitchen. Don=92t be put off by the outside appearance, it is = not a=20 typical tourist restaurant but is well worth the visit.  = ITS=20 MOVED! Now down a lane further along Jl Kartika. The lane is = almost=20 opposite the Dynasty Hotel and runs alongside Jenny's Shop. Walk to = the end of=20 the lane and its on your left. Nyoman has new offerings on the menu=20 here.

  74. Impala Restaurant, next to = the new=20 Kartika Plaza shopping centre in Tuban/Kuta has a passionate = clientele. Their=20 sauces are very tasty without being 'burners'.

  75. Ifiori Restaurant next to = Waterbom=20 Park. . A 'go back again' place.

  76. Bubba Gump's Shrimp = Restaurant=20 (Remember the movie, 'Forrest Gump'? Did you ever wonder why he was = called=20 'Forrest' or am I the only one with a funny imagination.) is new = ('04),=20 bright, loud, expensive, in your face and as bad as McDonalds in Bali = - but=20 some people seem to like it. Maybe the toilets are the attraction. The = serves=20 are large - but it's still plastic and the cost of drinks is above = average=20 unless its soft drinks which are re-fillable for free.

  77. The Istana Galeria Mall on = the inland=20 side of Kuta has some surprising eateries. While the ladies are window = shopping the guys can peruse Ace Hardware. The competition is intense = amongst=20 the food shops and the standards of presentation and cleanliness are=20 consequently very good. There are wine bars and take-away = bakeries=20 as well as the expected mix of international food and very good=20 Indonesian.

  78. Papa Ron=92s is a well known Indonesian = franchise=20 chain now opened in Bali. Mainly pizzas but other fare also=20 recommended.

  79. Asian Spice is across the road from the = Kuta=20 Paradiso and is worth a visit even if you=92re not staying there. = Choose from=20 Indonesian, Japanese or Thai.

  80.  There is a great Dim Sum eatery = in the sort=20 of up-market Kuta Galleria. Frequented by local Chinese it must be = good. If=20 this one is in the Duty Free Shoppers section it might be named, EMA = and is=20 highly recommended by local ex-pats with good palates. =

  81.  The new ('05) New Tuban Chinese = and Seafood=20 Restaurant, in Tuban of course, is trying hard and doing it well. Jl = Raya=20 Tuban
    No108X. Ph(62 361) 766 209.

  82. Kunyit, at the front of = the Hotel=20 Santika, has raised the juices of at least one Forumite in '05. A = rising=20 star?

  83. Febris is part of the = Green Garden=20 hotel in Tuban. Simple but quality food at affordable prices. =

  84. Alleycats is in Poppies = Lane I, about=20 50 paces from Legian Street. Small, with seating for about 20 maximum, = has a=20 young English couple Matt and Rachael as owners and there are parts of = the=20 varied menu that look a bit British. The roast is worth a long hike to = get!

  85. Warung Samurai on Jl = Benesari, Kuta,=20 has memorable and authentic Indonesian food. "The best meal of our = holiday."=20 Do not be put off by the look of the place. Dewa will be an attentive = host and=20 in for a chat if you want to.

  86. Febri's Hotel is opposite = the Dynasty=20 and Santika Hotels and a favourite of many patrons. Extensive manu, = attentive=20 staff. The ambience is a bit too concrete for Bali really.

  87. I Fiori is almost opposite = the=20 Discovey Kartika, with Italian leanings in the menu selections of = course. From=20 oysters to lamb shanks the food is above average. =

DRINKING.

See also=20 =91Drinking - safely=92 in the General section above. The Kuta to = Seminyak=20 area contains most of the better-known nightspots.

  1. Try =91Sex=20 On The Beach=92 cocktails wherever you can find them.=20

VISITING.

  1. Bali=20 Cyber Cafe and Restaurant is just off Jl Legian. Good = connections and=20 machines with knowledgeable staff to help with any problems. Also,=20 surprisingly, a great place to eat too. 9 Komplex Srijaya, Jl Putih = Jelantik.=20 Ph 761326. E-mali hello@balicyber.net. =

  2. Bali Ocean Spa, = aromatherapy and=20 beauty treatments. Jl Dewi Sartika Gang Samudra Shop #14A, Ph (0361) = 792=20 5761.  This is the Gang )lane) that runs from Jl Kartika Plaza = down to=20 the beach front by the Pantai Restaurant and Ma Joly restaurant. "It's = the=20 cleanest place I've been to in Bali and they know what they're doing=20 too!'

  3. Mehendra=20 I/net Caf=E9, between Poppies I & II. Rp150 /min. =

  4. Teddy=20 Hair Salon. Cut, manicure & massage with spine re-alignment =96 = US$20=20

  5. Kaki=20 Kakie Massage opposite Santika Hotel. Rp100,000 (A$20) for 1 hour. = Sort of=20 reflexology.

  6. Health=20 and Beauty Spa, Seminyak. A$30 =96 2.5 hours of total = pampering!!!!=20

  7. Maria=20 Massage. Poppies Lane I, Kuta. Trained at Club Med. =

DOING.   =20 -   There is not a lot of riotous nite-life in Tuban (and = little=20 in Kuta these days - its all moved down - or up - to Legian and = Seminyak), but=20 you can be entertained at Gracie Kelly's Irish Pub in the Dynasty Hotel; = across=20 the road from the Ramada Bintang Hotel is a small bar with live music; = there are=20 bands at the Stadium Bar on the eastern side of Jl Kartika Plaza, about = in the=20 middle; opposite is a Japanese restaurant, Fukataro, with live bands and = the=20 Melasti Bar also near the Paradiso Hotel; Musro Nightclub is at the=20 Kartika  Hotel. There is an entry fee here. There are several small = restaurants along Jl Kartika Plaza with live music from time to time. = It's a=20 nice walk to find them.

  1. Huge statue under construction on hills = overlooking Kuta,=20 Benoa and Jimbaran Bay. GWK Cultural Park. An amazing place with a = good=20 evening restaurant too.

  2. Internet = Caf=E9. Near=20 Ramada Bintang Hotel Jl Kartika Plaza. Also top floor Ramayana in = Denpasar.=20

  3. Book a = Nusa Lembongan=20 tour at tourist info stand by Go-Karts. "Madi Gun Bali". Aus$270 for 3 = people.=20 Better than Bali Hai cruises. Food and drink provided with guide.=20

  4. Bunga = Bunga Artist=20 Collective Gallery in Kuta Centre.

  5. Waterbom = Park. For=20 kids of all ages. Not really cheap. US$15 + 10% entry. Smallish locker = hire=20 Rp15,000 + Rp 25,000 deposit but then you get charged each time you = want to=20 access your locker! Travel light but remember the 30+ sunscreen. Towel = hire=20 Rp5, 000 + Rp30, 000 deposit. Ice creams Rp 3 =96 30,000, fries = Rp15,000, pizza=20 Rp35-45,000, nasi goreng Rp18,000, large Bintang Rp20,000. = Spirts+mixers in=20 tinnies. You can buy a second day pass quite cheaply if you intend to = make a=20 return visit later in your holiday. If you get there early enough you = can use=20 a cabana as a family base.

  6. Try Duta = Spa on Jl=20 Pantai Kuta. Three customers at a time on proper massage beds. Nice = atmosphere=20 and service. Not far from KFC and around the corner. Look for the = girls in=20 green sarongs. Rp60,000.

PEOPLE.

  1. Ibu Wayan or = Mistri=20 (#27?) for massages in front of Ramada Bintang Bali Resort or he = Pantai=20 Restaurant or the Balihai Resort in Tuban. See Adi for fabric = stuff and=20 little monkey Monica for beaded necklaces etc. The fifth member of the = pent-something-group is Lisa who will give you a great mani/pedicure = or just=20 sit and hold your hand while the others work you over. Tell them Papa = Made=20 Bill sent you and you'll get the best value on the beach.

  2. If you want a flyable kite = that is=20 also a work of art see Peter the kite = man on=20 the beach at the old Balihai Resort in Tuban. Just look for an = incredible=20 flying machine in the sky over the beach or ask any seller on the = beach and=20 they'll point him out to you. He creates Dream Boat kites, dragon = kites and=20 bird kites. The story of the dream boat kite is that you hang it in = your=20 bedroom and all your good dreams settle in the boat. When you next fly = it the=20 dreams blow out and float off on the wind until they find someone else = asleep.=20 They then settle down and that person can share your dreams. =

  3. I Made Dera is our favourite = driver who=20 works from a local stand by entrance to the Balihai Resort in Tuban = and the=20 Patra Hotel. (Personally used =9299 to =9108 and will continue to do = so.) We have=20 used him for so long that we are now more than friends and introduce = each=20 other as 'my brother.'  Mobile 0818 0559 1202. Made has a new = ('07)=20 Suzuki 7 seater van with separate front and rear A/C units, factory = fitted=20 restraint bolts and a child safety seat to Australian standards. If = Made=20 (Pron. 'Marday') is tied up he'll make sure that you're not stranded = and will=20 get his brother Wayan Kira to fill in for him. Both drivers are as = honest as=20 the day is long and will take you only where you want to go, = not to=20 places they might like. I have watched very carefully and I am = confident that=20 they do not take commissions from shops when they take tourists to = them, such=20 commissions of course are added to the cost of the tourist's business = in those=20 stores.

  4. Lisa is a manicurist who = works usually=20 on the beach around the Ramada Bintang or towards the Balihai nearer = the=20 airport. Lisa does the most unbelievably intricate designs on your = nails=20 or  just a plain manicure/pedicure if that's what  you want. = She has=20 a daughter with growth hormone deficiency syndrome and will really = welcome=20 your business as she has a quarterly medical bill of Rp1,250,000 to = somehow=20 meet. Its not easy even when your workmate friends also help. =

  5. Somewhere along the Patra = Ramada beach=20 front you might see some intricate kites flying when the breeze is = off-shore.=20 If you trace the kite string down to the ground you might be fortunate = enough=20 to meet Peter the Kite Man, and artist in the making of superb kites = at little=20 more than the market cost of clumsy knock-offs.

  6. Massage #7 = in front of=20 Kartika Plaza.

  7. The Lemon = Tree Spa on Jl=20 Kartika Plaza. 2 hours for US$30. Worth it. =

ACCOMMODATION = (standard)

  1. The Balihai = Resort and=20 Spa was known as the Holiday Inn on Jl Wana Segara, Tuban. It was and = is our=20 favourites but closed in '07, temporarily we hope.
    Meet Mr Made, = the Front=20 Office Manager, Made Widiatani (known as Widi) at breakfast, Made = Suyesta may=20 be in O'Brien's Bar and Made Setiasta (who we know as =91Moonface=92) = could serve=20 you in the pool bar or the coffee lounge or at one of the hotel theme = night=20 dinners.
    If you like caf=E9 latte ask for one just like Mr Pat, = the past=20 General Manager, had for breakfast. Chances are you=92ve never seen a = caf=E9 latte=20 quite like it. Renovated in 2003 and very compact, right on the beach, = friendly, great bar staff, good kids club, quiet, but close to Kuta, = Rp7500=20 (less than A$3.00) by taxi. Regrettably showers are over the bath - = take a 500=20 mm extension with you and call room service for a plumber to fit it so = you=92re=20 not bumping into the wall all the time. (There are many hotels in Bali = where=20 the same concern could be expresses.) Ph (62 361) 75 30 35. E-mail fom@balihai-resort.com. = Web-site http://www.balihai-resort.com/ gives=20 the layout and room numbers. The deluxe suites are numbered 16-18 and = at the=20 ends of blocks 12 & 13 overlooking the pool. Family rooms are in = block=20 2..   Baby sitters can be arranged for only Rp15,000/hour. = The=20 ground floor family suites are very big with room for kids to spread = out on=20 the floor or lounge in front of the TV and there are separate bath and = shower.=20 The ice making machines on each floor are great for taking cold drinks = and=20 food on your tours. Repeat customers are invited to an informal tea = party with=20 the management each week.
    The Balihai = Resort has=20 two family villas which have an extra room with access directly onto = the=20 beach. There is also a private bale for relaxing but there is no = cooking area.=20 The hotel meals however are just great. Have a look at http://www.balihai-resort.com/,=20 under =91Accommodation=92.
    *** In early '07 the Balihai announced = that it was=20 closing because of lease conflicts. This is not too unusual in Bali = and it may=20 well re-open later in the year with new owners an the old staff. In = the=20 interim the Santika has been recommended or the Bali Rani which is a = bit=20 cheaper and a little more family oriented. The Patra is another with a = well=20 known Kids Club. All are in Tuban if you like this area.

  2. Bali = Dynasty. Big! Has=20 too many guests for the facilities to handle at times. Beware lack of=20 supervision at the Kids Club. Good meals, the breakfasts almost = unbelievable.=20 Some advertised events do not occur. Family poolside rooms are good = for those=20 with young families but not the Premier rooms. Ice making machine on = the first=20 floor is a good idea. Some thefts from room safes reported in = mid '05.=20 In at least two instances the guests were blamed by the management for = not=20 locking the safes properly!!!  Several complaints in '06 about = run down=20 rooms, not made up until asked in the afternoon, price hikes, flat = mattresses=20 and children lost from the kids club. The pools are great, especially = for=20 kids. Gracie Kelly's IrishBar and Restaurant is a great meeting place = and the=20 Golden Lotus is a fine diner's delight at any time but on Sundays the = dim sum=20 buffet is glorious.

  3. 2007 reports suggest that = the Patra=20 Bali is cheaper, better value and nicer than the Dynasty although it = is=20 further from the highlights of Kuta being the first hotel at the = airport end=20 of the Tuban-Kuta-Seminyak strip.

  4. Risata or Rama Baruna = Cottages, Jl=20 Wana Segara.

  5. Santika Exec Bungalows, = including.=20 Butler. A$1400 for 7 nights ex Perth, all including.

  6. Santika Beach Resort. Room = 321 is=20 great. Split-level. NZ$71/night. Plenty of pool lounges. Friendly = staff.=20

  7. Ramada Bintang. Best = pools. Neither=20 the beach nor the hotel is as good as the Balihai Resort (ex Holiday = Inn).=20 Breakfasts not great =96 go out. Rooms=92 ending in odd numbers all = face inwards=20 towards pool. Best. Some guests report difficulties reconciling final = bill.=20 Tea & coffee are not provided free in your room. Room 2035 (and = others=20 nearby no doubt) opens onto the gardens. It is in the first block = close to the=20 pool. The Ramada = Bintang was=20 severely caned in mid =9205. See the Bali Travel Forum message 48531 = of 26 June=20 at 04:35 Bali time.

  8. Puri Raja. Much better = pool than the=20 Melasti Beach resort next door.

  9. Visitors who become = un-enchanted with=20 the Hard Rock Hotel do so with a vengeance. =93.. biggest rip off =85 = appalling=20 service =85 advertised facilities not available =85 credit card = mis-handled =85=20 inflated prices =85=94. Most expensive and liked it the least of all. = Super loud=20 bands and thin walls don't make for a restful holiday, particularly = when the=20 din is piped into the corridors, just in case the crowds want to dance = outside=20 your room perhaps? Pool toilets are a death trap with slippery tiles = made even=20 worse by the rubbish that's thrown on them and not cleaned up for = days.=20 Unbelievable. The great pools don't make up for all the other = stuff.=20

  10. Patra Jasa is on the sea = front but not=20 much of a beach however it is much better than the Dynasty. =

  11. Natur Kuta Beach Hotel. =

  12. Bali Garden = Hotel, Tuban.=20 On the beach front, pool, spa, pool bar. Big rooms in the deluxe = section, good=20 choice of restaurants. Breakfast buffet really good, staff = attentive.=20 Rooms are run-down and not too clean but this is a budget place with = great=20 pools and grounds and cheap but good food and drinks.

  13. The Kuta Seaview has good = points that=20 make it attractive. The Deluxe Bungalows are semi-detached Balinese = style unit=20 on the ground floor with massive queen or single beds wide screen = television=20 and nice verandas but actually without a sea view any more, maybe they = never=20 did. It is very centrally located between Poppies I and II. In '07 = guests=20 found nothing about the place that would make them return except the = location.=20 Go see for yourself but maybe don't book beforehand.

  14. The Discovery Kartika = Plaza has above=20 average Ocean Front rooms with great panoramas west and north in those = above=20 the ground floor. Large balcony for entertaining. =

ACCOMMODATION. = (Cheap) =96 Make sure that you use the security = provisions of=20 your hotel! Do not leave your room unlocked even for a short time = and even=20 when its locked don=92t leave money, passports etc on = view.

  1. Garden View = Cottages,=20 near Jl Padma, Legian. Fridge and A/C but basic. Comments in = lat 2007=20 suggested that it was run down and ill-managed. Cleanliness left a lot = to be=20 desired and owner/manager did nothing. I was told in '08 that the = hotel had=20 implemented a policy under which all staff over 40 years of age were = either=20 dismissed or demoted. May the pox of a thousand drunken footballers = infest=20 their gardens! Heard on the grapevine that they are to close in = Jan '09=20 and apartments would be built on the site.

  2. Green = Garden, Tuban.=20 There are actually two, a newer and slightly more expensive one in Jl = Wana=20 Segara and the original in Jl Kartika Plaza (which is a little noisy = in parts=20 at times) near Waterbom Park. Nice restaurant. Cute pool, = friendly=20 staff, great location, wide range of TV channels. Unbeatable value. = Reports in=20 late '08 contradicted these views and long-time regulars were deciding = to go=20 elsewhere following a possible change in management who have lost all = the old=20 positives and replaced them with higher rates.

  3. Sennen Beach Inn, Jl = Melasti.=20

  4. Camplung = Mas Lane 25,=20 Legian-Rp30-50,000/nite. You get what you pay for. Sometimes = there=20 seems to be no water, sometimes the cleaning is not good, sometimes = linen is a=20 bit grey, sometimes there is none. There are reports that the manager = has a=20 reputation that is not good, either here or at previous hotels. Some = room=20 thefts with no management reaction in '02.

  5. Ayu Beach = Inn,=20 Poppies.

  6. Ardi Darma = Cottages,=20 Kuta. Large rooms clean pool. 10 min walk to the beach. =

  7. Dua Dara, = Poppies 2 =96=20 Rp30,000 single.

  8. Fat Yogis. = Jl Sahadewa=20 between Melasti & Padma. Find Sue. $10/nite. Bad reports in early = =9203.=20 =91The pool looked as if it had been dyed green =96 but it = hadn=92t!=92=20

  9. Nagasari = Hotel, Kuta.=20 Near Kuta Markets.

  10. Barong = Hotel, Poppies=20 Lane II, Kuta. Nice pools and clean rooms. Room 501 is on the second = floor at=20 the rear =96 quiet =96 good! Only 2 towels supplied unless you = ask for more,=20 then =91no problems=92. US$20 / night. Taxi to Sindhu Markets in Sanur = only=20 Rp25,000. Reports of a phone stolen from a locked room early = 2006.=20 Management (of course) in full denial and put all possible obstacles = in the=20 way of a police report. Such is life in many small hotels in Bali I'm = afraid.=20 You just don't know until it happens to you. Despite comments to the = contrary=20 tourists in mid '08 did NOT find the Barong 'family friendly', nor did = they=20 find it clean, quiet or peaceful, populated by civilised persons. = Beware of=20 cuts from the broken tiles around the pool.

  11. Hotel Restu = Bali,=20 Kuta.

  12. Bali=20 Rani, Tuban, - 3.5*. Tuban. Good value. =  Guest relations - Denny ('02). = Friendly staff=20 and enjoyable breakfasts. Central to Tuban & Kuta and right = opposite the=20 new ('05) Discovery Mall shopping centre. Partly renovated in '05. = Reports of=20 theft from a room in '06 and singular disinterest from management=20

  13. NOT Pelasa = Hotel Cottages=20 in Kuta. A wreck where quotes in Aus$ become US$ on departure.=20

  14. Not Sahid = Raya=20 Hotel.

  15. Not Melasti Beach = Bungalows in Tuban.=20 (Sister resort to Melasti Beach Resort.) Breakfasts usually inedible. = Pools OK=20 but usually no pool towels.

  16. Istana = Rama. Garden=20 bungalows are actually doubles with no soundproofing between.=20

  17. Flora Beach = Hotel. Good=20 food at great prices.

  18. Not Aneka = Hotel. Small=20 rooms, noisy, poor water if you=92re lucky. '- a disaster, and = a dirty=20 one at that.' (mid '08). " - you only get what you pay for.' =

  19. Puri Rajah. = Nice=20 accommodation. Friendly and honest staff.

  20. Dewi Sri = Cottages. Has a=20 new section, (=9202). Nice gardens and pool. Friendly but not pushy = staff. US$20=20 / night.

  21. AP Inn, = opposite Fat=20 Yogis (not recommended) in Poppies Lane I. Rp135,000 / night =96 A/C, = hot water,=20 breakfast =96 clean, good atmosphere, friendly staff, pool, Kubuku = Restaurant=20 also good for Indonesian and Chinese food at value prices. Handy to = shopping=20 of course. http://www.apinn.com/ = .=20

  22. The Indah Beach Hotel got = a mixed=20 write-up in late '05. 'Great location in Kuta near the dog-leg of = Poppies II -=20 value at Aus$27/night, single with breakfast - rooms dark and full of = mozzies=20 - a bit grotty - grounds not good - pool towels not clean in the=20 morning.'

  23. Suri Wathi Hotel, = Legian.=20 Rp55,000/nite. Serious complaints in '08. = Leaking=20 ceilings, no room towels, dirty; green pool. Good grounds and friendly = staff=20 seem to be just a 'come on'.

  24. Febri's Hotel is on Jl = Kartika Plaza,=20 Tuban, not far from the Kuta art markets, a bit before the Ramada = Bintang=20 Hotel. Small (0nly 69 rooms)  it still has a spa and a kids club, = a nice=20 pool a restaurant and room service. Nice concrete gardens!!  'New = and=20 fresh with huge rooms, comfortable large beds and super friendly = staff' -=20 '07.

  25. The Ida Hotel is in = central Kuta just=20 behind the Matahari buildings. 30 years old but well maintained. great = staff.=20 Nice o/door bathrooms. Great gardens. Quiet. 'Drop in for a dink and = see for=20 yourself' - '07. Deluxe bungalows are huge - 2 x four poster beds, = thoroughly=20 cleaned every day. Great breakfasts. Very peaceful.

  26. Kuta Villas for families. = Self=20 contained and large for 6 people Aus$100/night + $10ea for additional = people=20 up to 10. Behind Mataharis. Secure. http://www.kutavilla.com/. = E-mail mailto:info@indahbali.com or info@indahbali.com.au. =

  27. The Taman Sari Cottages in = Poppies=20 Lane II has been caned in mid '08. 'Thin walls', 'loud and drunken = patrons',=20 'no staff care or control or even interest', 'noisy area', 'stained = and ill=20 fitting bed linen' - enough?

  28. The cheapest we could find = in January=20 '09 was the Palm Beach International Hotel right opposite the entry to = the=20 Pantai Restaurant on Jl Wana Segara Pantai No1, Tuban. The = 'International'=20 part of the name was perhaps once true as the buildings and grounds = still show=20 their wonderful heritage but a succession of owners has apparently = milked the=20 place and with managers on only 2 month contracts it is a shadow of = its former=20 self. Never the less we will return as it is virtually beach-front and = central=20 to most of our friends and activities. The rooms are similar in both = size and=20 layout to the old Holiday Inn/Balihai and the Dynasty (at US$97 plus=20 breakfast). US$40 includes breakfast. The saving of nearly $100 a = night over=20 the Dynasty made our limited funds go so much further. Great = restaurant up in=20 the tree tops, good breakfasts, friendly staff, nice pool.=20

# 2 - = LEGIAN/SEMINYAK/KEROBOKAN DISTRICTS = SECTION.

(Look=20 also at Tuban/Kuta, the previous section, as the boundaries are not = clear=20 between these districts.)

These districts run north up = the coast=20 from Jimbaran Bay, the airport, Tuban and Kuta. Further up the coast = beyond=20 Seminyak and Kerobokan (where their are many of the newest restaurants = and the=20 famous , or infamous, Bali Jail is located) you will find Petitenget = Beach and=20 Berawa Beach (sometimes called Brawa Beach as the Balinese have a habit = of=20 dropping the second letter - for example Lake Bratan or Lake Beratan. = Doubtless=20 these sites will be next in line for the development that is currently = taking=20 place in Kerobokan.

Berawa already has a = foundation for=20 development with three beach side hotels (the Legong Keraton is being = renovated=20 in late '04) and a number of restaurants still open or waiting to = re-open as=20 tourism picks up post-bomb. The first brick on the foundation might be = the local=20 money-changer who is reputed to be honest! The beach here is clean with = a bit of=20 surf at times, particularly towards the more well known Tanah Lot area, = and so=20 far ('05) is fairly free of hawkers.

** Beware=20 of temporary tattoos. Many people have severe = reactions to=20 the chemical cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, = and which=20 is toxic and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in = children with=20 recent reports saying that one in five children will be = effected.=20 The scars after blistering may be permanent and flare up at times of = stress.=20 Refer to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html .=20 Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief but would you want = to be=20 doing this for the rest of your life - or condemn your children to = this???=20
Researchers in Germany have also uncovered a link between temporary = tattoos=20 and permanent, lifelong dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). = Sufferers=20 remain allergic to some metals, detergents and foods FOR LIFE!
** Be = even=20 more careful of permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you un-seal any sterile = equipment=20 and that you see the gun sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes = as these=20 can also transmit Hep C.

SHOPPING. =96 Take a taxi = to the=20 northern end of Jalan Seminyak and begin the pleasant walk back checking = the=20 shoulder-to-shoulder shops as you go. Have a club sandwich or nasi = goreng or a=20 black rice ice-cream at Made=92s Warung to keep up the energy = levels.
Try Bali=20 Stones (Jl Nakula No33, Legian Kaja; Ph (62 361) 847 5757. http://www.balistones.com/) = particularly=20 if you think you might buy enough to think about shipping it home. Run = by=20 Felicia and Leo who make it easy to arrange. $320 per cubic metre + 5% = duty and=20 10% GST. This means that the final cost is about double the cost that = you pay=20 for the actual goods in Bali but maybe a quarter or a third of the = retail costs=20 of similar goods bought in Australia.
DHL has a freight depot near = the=20 Bintang Supermarket where you can get heavy freight cartons from 25 to = 100 Kg.=20 Freight home to Oz is about 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of excess=20 luggage.

  1. Legian Markets, (better than Kuta, = friendlier and no more expensive.).
    Try Ketut=92s Art Shop No = 14(9). Art Shop=20 14 (9), Jl Sahadewa Gang Sorga No 2 (=91Ady=92s Lane=92), Legian. = Fixed price like=20 Tootsies in Sanur the last shop in Ady=92s Lane which runs off Jl = Sahadewa on=20 the right if you=92re heading towards Jn Padma. If they haven=92t got = what you=20 want they will get it. Reliable. If you get to French Leather you=92ve = gone past=20 the lane. Ph 763 410.

  2. Loji Supermarket Jl Padma Utara = and also=20 Jl Legian near old Bounty ship. Many varieties of Indo style nibbles = and lots=20 of nuts.

  3. The Bintang Supermarket similar to = Loji=20 (above) and the bigger stores in Kuta and Denpasar.

  4. Caf=E9 Moka on the main road = through=20 Seminyak has cream cakes you might have in your dreams and French = pastries.=20 Exercise before you go because you won=92t be able to after you=92ve = eaten.=20

  5. Bali Deli in Seminyak. =

  6. Dolphins Leather,=20 Sahadewa Street between Jl Melasti and Jl Padma. Ph 755 278. Same = street as=20 the Indo National Restaurant used to be (they are now in Jl Padma) on = same=20 side but towards other end of street a bit closer to the markets. = Almost=20 opposite Bali Gong CD and DVD shop.

  7. Alfin=20 Leather, Melasti St.

  8. Iwan Collection leather tailors, = Jl Padma,=20 Legian.

  9. Site=92s Pottery and Leather. On = Legian just=20 past turn off to Melasti on the left going north. Casserole dish $8 = worth 10=20 times that at home.

  10. =91Marly From Bali=92 =96 Jl = Sahadewa between=20 Melasti and Padma.

  11. A reliable tailor is Mr Ansor at = Brisbane=20 Tailors on Jl Padma Utara about 100 paces from Bali Dwira. =

  12. Extreme sports shop on left going = up Jl=20 Legian past McDonalds/Matahari.

  13. Janji Shop=20 35A. Melasti Art Market. Corner Jl Melasti and Sahadewa (Garlic Lane). = Made=20 and wife Nyoman. Larger sizes of clothing as well as kids wear. = Singlet tops=20 15,000 =96 shorts/cords 30,000 =96 Hawaiian shirts 25,000 =96 white = shirts 15,000 =96=20 long trousers 30,000. See Made.

  14. Toko Bintang, Seminyak supermarket = and=20 kitchen wares. Legian Rd Seminyak. Cheaper and with a wider range than = Matahari.

  15. Lombok pearls=20 (which may indeed come from freshwater farms in China) are worth = searching=20 for. Various sizes & colours, pink, coffee, green, blue, silver, = black.=20 Cheapest on the Gillis, Rp 40-60,000 for bracelets, necklaces and = anklets of=20 small size pearls. Value in Sengiggi but 5-10 = times the=20 price in Kuta. A$25 for set of necklace bracelet and anklet from = Novian the=20 massage man at Puri Tanah Lot Hotel on Camplung Mas Lane off Melasti = St,=20 Legian. Also sellers at Legian Beach end of Jl Double 6 outside the = beach=20 cafes such as Benny=92s, Zanzibar etc. Also Lalu Samani Ph (361) 757 = 170,=20 Rp50,000 for large strands of large coloured pearls. Sellers from = Lombok=20 outside the Jayakarta Hotel =96 ask for Lalu Topan. Rp80-100,000 for = =93a good=20 size necklace=94. Another seller from Lombok is Saprudin. You=92ll = find him at Jl=20 Padma Mas No IX Legian, phone (0361) 757 170 or ask Sammi and Sussi on = the=20 beach near the lifeguard tower at the northern end of the beach. = =91Rejects=92,=20 which are not exactly round or have lines etc on them, are cheaper = than better=20 quality. The jewellery shops in Legian have pearls at similar prices = to=20 sellers in Kuta and Jimbaran but with better quality and range of = clasps,=20 findings etc.  Real pearls feel rough when rubbed against your = teeth but=20 the acid test is to hold a lit match or lighter under them, genuine = pearls=20 will not melt but plastic ones will and they also feel smooth against = the=20 teeth. Give the vendor plenty of time to object before you really do = it=20 though!
    'Ali=92 is another seller, usually in front of the Kumala = Pantai=20 near the Jayakarta where there are several reliable ones. Ask the guys = who set=20 up the beach chairs to point them out to you. Ali's phone number is = 757 170 if=20 he=92s not around, or Sahara (+6285 2374 448990) or Darwin. These guys = will also=20 re-string your old necklaces and do a good job at quite cheap rates. = Try nammeijaro@yahoo.com. = 3-strand average=20 length for A$42 =96 longer A$45; Australian valuation $350+ when = re-strung and=20 clasped. Also near the Kumala Pantai, by Benny=92s Caf=E9, you will = find three=20 ladies led by Lalu Topan. Between them they will have a full range of = colours.=20 If you want something special like rose or coffee colours they will = get them.=20 The best findings are sterling silver because they don't break or take = your=20 own gold ones from home. Aus$20 for a single strand of large cream = colour in=20 '05.
    See =91Pearls=92= in the=20 Lombok District section.
    Alma's Enterprises next to R2U Shoes at = No5 Jl=20 Padma Utara has pearls (and beads) and make it much easier to shop = than at the=20 beach. Generally fixed price but they will bargain a bit for more than = one=20 item. They will also make up anything different that you want. An = 'unreal'=20 shop!
    Near the Circle K in Padma Utara (Legian) between Ricky's Bar = and the=20 fairy shop on the middle dog-leg corner will also repair pearls and = other=20 jewellery or copy pieces from pictures. Ask for Ray, she speaks good = English=20 and is quite artistic.

  16. Lombok Pottery.=20 See Bill or Suzie Skevros at 373 Jl Legian. They import and sell at = Lombok=20 prices.

  17. Sarong shops in Jl Double Six. = Also wood=20 carving shops and shadow puppets as well as beads (under US$1/strand). = Look=20 for Annie=92s at the end of the row of sarong shops. Jl 66 runs from = Legian=20 street to the beach, sometimes called Sarong street. It is a haven of=20 wholesale/retail outlets for all sorts of arts, crafts, clothing, = handbags,=20 shoes etc etc.  Get your cabbie to drop you of at the Jl Legian=20 intersection and spend your way down to the beach.

  18. Fashion for pets at =91Dog Tails=92 near = the Bintang=20 supermarket in Seminyak and also near the corner of Legian and Jl = Kunti which=20 goes to the Bali Deli.. There are several other pet stores in Bali = these days,=20 as locals and ex-pats find the new fashion of dog and cat pet=20 ownership.
    Doggie Style is in Poppies I in Kuta, towards = the Legian=20 St end and on the northern side (towards Legian that is).
    In Sanur = next to=20 McDonalds and also at the Bird Market on Jl Veteran in Denpasar as = well as=20 near the south end of Jl Gatot Subroto. These are generally cheaper = than those=20 in the more touristy areas.
    More pet fashions = at Dog Ear=20 2, Jl Hanoman No 38, Padang Tegal, Ubud.

  19. Betty Bu on Jl 66. cloth items = including=20 the best doona covers and different sari=92s.

  20. Bikinis at Dik Dak, Jl Sahadewa 13 = in=20 Legian. Bring your own fabric for best results, or visit Alta Rica = fabric shop=20 in the Kuta Istana Galleria shopping centre for a range of lycra's and = other=20 stuff.

  21. Top Ten at No 118,Jl Melasti, = Legian (Ph=20 759 425) sells Louis Vuitton fashion shoes and handbags that will make = the=20 ladies=92 jaws drop.

  22. The Basement factory seconds shop. = =91Rusty=92=20 and other brands. Jl Raya Legian No 463. Ph (0361) 755 921. =

  23. Computer=20 software. Poppies Lane 2 on the right hand side coming from Legian = Beach=20 Road =96 about 40 paces along. Ask for Bastian. You can e-mail him = before you go=20 to check stocks at softcomp_2000@yahoo.com. = (62-361)=20 763 330 also at Jl Legian Kelod 408C which is just north of Jl Padma = on the=20 eastern side. Phone (62- 361) 757 051. Softcomp has several outlets; = Kuta=20 Sidewalk Blok C1 below the new Ramayana Hotel; Poppies Lane II in = front of the=20 Bagus Pub; also in front of the Internet Post in Poppies II; Legian = street No=20 59 and Legian Kelod street No 408C.
    More software stores are listed = in the=20 Denpasar section further down.

  24. DVD=92s, PS1 7 @ games, videos = etc. - Bali=20 Gong Shop, Jl Sahadewa 6 Kuta Bali, LEGIAN. (Off Melasti Street = between Bali=20 Too Restaurant and the Legian Beach Hotel.) Just opposite Dolphin = Leather and=20 Dolphin Cafe. Ph 759 843. E-mail ddbaligong@hotmail.com. Run = by Dede=20 and Lucy. Reliable and honest. He has an Australian bank account into = which=20 you can pay for CD=92s and DVD=92s to be posted to you when the money = is cleared.=20 Posted DVD=92s are priced at A$10 in early =9203.

  25. Star Disc outlets are fairly new = in=20 Sahadewa Street and sell reliable DVDs and Playstation games. Ask for = Willy.=20 Ph (62-361) 757 140.

  26. Avoid the moneychanger next to = Billy=92s Bar=20 in Jl Sahadewa.

  27. Wholesalers and exporters sell to = the=20 public in Jl 66, Seminyak. Could be the cheapest prices in Bali. = Certainly 50%=20 of Ubud market prices.

  28. In Kerobokan visit the Geneva Handcrafts = on the 3rd=20 floor above the Geneva Furniture shop, Jl Raya Kerobokan No100. Ph (62 = 361)=20 733 571. Wholesale prices. A Blue Bird taxi from Legian is about Rp10, = 000.=20

  29. Also in=20 Kerobokan is Unagi, similar to Geneva but maybe a bit nicer to shop = at. On Jl=20 Teuku Umar Barat, No 286, a couple of kilometres past the gaol heading = to=20 Denpasar. Ask for business prices if you're buying a lot of stuff - = think=20 $100+.

  30. Golden Buffalo shop on Jl Legian = at corner=20 with Jl Padma. They have the largest selection of silver and bronze = plated=20 figurines you could ever hope to see. They have a warehouse outlet = too. Ask=20 for directions at the shop which is on the way to Geneva Homewares and = Furniture store in Kerobokan (the next district just north of = Seminyak).=20

  31. Komang Sri, Tailor=20 in Padma Street.

  32. Merry Collections, Jl Padma Utara, = Kuta,=20 Ph(0361) 745 143, opposite a Circle K shop.  Ask for Aristo ### = who=20 measures and fits with great care. Three 3-piece suits (pants, skirt,=20 jacket)  @ Aus$85 each ('05). Three days to measure and = make.
    ### In=20 '07 Mr Aristo started again on his own - now at Miranda Leather and = Tailor, Jl=20 Padma Utara #22, about 100 paces from the Padma corner, at the front = of Saphir=20 Mabisa Hotel, Ph (0361) 755 956 or 081 747 58159. e-mail ariskuwa@yahoo .com. No Bargaining = needed.=20 You get his best price first time - and remember lower prices only = mean lower=20 quality. Mention this Forum for even more attention.     =

  33. CLOTHING.
    *=20 Oknwe, unusual Japanese-style designer clothing on Jl = Legian.
     * SKIN=20 Post Atomic Wear is much better than the name sounds. Mainly linen and = other=20 natural fibres. Skirts, dresses etc about Aus$25-30. Excellent = tailoring and=20 cut. Also men=92s clothes. Italian styles available. Jl Raya Seminyak = No.16A and=20 Jl. 66 No.58.

    * Puravida on Jl Pantai Kuta = No.29A and Jl=20 Legian Kaja No.38B in Seminyak. Colourful and funky gear at=20 Aus$25-30.

    * Sandpiper on Jl Legian just = before the=20 old Paddy=92s site as you go towards Kuta.

    * Luna on Jl Raya Seminyak 38A, = next to=20 Puravida.

    * Attitude Jl Raya Legian about = 100 paces=20 past La Porchetta and on the same side of the road.

    * = Sita Fashions=20 at 373 Legian street almost directly across from the markets, appears = a small=20 shop but wander through the side passage into the back = sheds.

    * = Have a look=20 at the work of the Adopta Coop, a group of women made widows by the = Bali=20 terrorist bombing. They have formed a self-help sewing cooperative and = have an=20 outlet in=20 Jl = Gunung Sari=20 #28C. If = you get onto=20 Jl Imam Bonjol look for  petrol station on the right followed = almost=20 immediately by traffic lights. At the lights turn right onto Gunung = Sari and=20 go for about a kilometer and after the road swings to the left look = for a=20 small block of shops on the left. Ph Niluh on 0813 5320=20 5646 for closer directions or driver Made on 0812 = 395 7296.=20 E-mail erni_erniati@yahoo.com. You=20 can get Toiletry bags for your favourite orphanage here and printed = polo's and=20 T-shirts to order.  http://www.adopta.info.

  34. Syah is an art=20 shop in Laksmana street (used to be known as Oberoi street because it = ends at=20 this hotel) number 35, Seminyak, or is it now Kerobokan? Opposite The = Bakery.=20 If you buy art work have it taken off the frame and rolled into a = plastic tube=20 or piece of plumbing pipe for safe transport.

  35. Beware of Super=20 Pillow IV in Rum Jungle Road, Legian. They will try to sell you pillow = covers,=20 quilts etc but they don't deliver on their promises and become rude, = arrogant,=20 offensive and threatening.

  36. New in '07,=20 Michel Harcourt - Paris, Fashion House, Jl Raya Basankasa 1200A, = Seminyak. 10=20 am to 9 pm daily. There is also a Kuta outlet in the new Carrefour = Plaza on=20 the second floor.

  37. The new (French=20 chain) Carrefour Supermarket on Sunset Road is HUGE and when opened = ('07) had=20 great prices.

  38. In '09 we=20 discovered Kampung Bali, a recent warehouse-type place with racks and = counters=20 and shelves of an unbelievable array of goods. A fanatical shopper I = know had=20 three little basket carriers to follow her around and ferry her = selections=20 back to the checkout! Jl Merta Nadi No77X, Kuta, Bali. Its not far = from the=20 Bali Bakery.

EATING.

  1. Made=92s Warung I (Kuta) & II=20 (Seminyak). Regular good reports. A haven for ex-pats, beautiful = people and=20 others who are out to be seen. You would be wise to book ahead = although not=20 always essential early in the evening. The cats about the courtyard = area of=20 the place are clean and friendly. I heard in April '07 that the = Seminyak=20 restaurant had closed. I hope not.

  2. Poco Loco, Jl Padma Utara, Legian. = Generally good reports but claims of whole parties suffering food = poisoning=20 mid =9201 and inedible food late in '04. Strongly supported by others = at the=20 same time! Toilets 10/10. Perhaps it depends on the cook-of-the-night. = Be=20 prepared for anything.  Late in '06 there were complaints about the = food and=20 the service and pushy staff trying to sell CD's. "There are much = better places=20 within a short stone throw - -". Drivers are not allowed to wait for = you in=20 the car park, nor will they phone him when you have finished. Not good = customer relations. The Margarita are NOT the best in=20 Bali.

  3. Aromas Caf=E9, Jl Legian. Coffee, = cakes,=20 pastries. Fabulous baguettes & iced coffee. Nice setting.=20

  4. La Lucciola, Seminyak. $$$ On the = beach =96=20 spectacular. Some of the staff are very off-handed if not plain rude.=20

  5. Kafe Warisan, Seminyak. Phone and = book to=20 ask for a 2nd Fl. table overlooking rice fields. 731175 Not cheap but = ***** 3=20 courses for 2 + drinks A$60

  6. La Terras =96 Like the two above. = $$$=20

  7. The Swiss Restaurant, Kuta & = Jl=20 Werkudara Legian. Fondue and =91roesti=92 potatoes amongst other = delights. Ph 761=20 511.

  8. Legends in Sahadewa Street is = worth a=20 visit. Good food, good prices, good staff, good kids meals served = promptly.=20

  9. Taman Gardens Rest., Melasti = street,=20 Legian. Breakfast or Happy Hour. Is this the same as the Taman Legian = Garden=20 Rest?? All-you-can-eat breakfast Rp15,000 per person. Pancakes, rice, = eggs=20 fruit, etc, etc.

  10. Also in Jl Melasti is the Puri = Bali Indah.=20 Try the chicken dishes. Owned by elderly Chinese your young children = will be=20 welcomed.

  11. Delight Caf=E9, Rum Jungle Rd. = Legian. Lamb.=20 Rp5,000/main course.

  12. Dolphin Bar & Restaurant, = Melasti=20 street. Legian. Happy hour 5.30 =96 8.30 nightly. New manager and cook = (2.2.02)=20 =96 =91best meals of our holiday=92.

  13. Wayan & Friends. Jl Padma = Legian. Good=20 steaks =96 not big but good. Rp40,000. Run by "Jody". Filet mignon +, = Rp30,000.=20 Also chicken breast. OK if your outlook is under 30=92s. Bacon = imported from Oz.=20 We returned there in June '06 and were very = disappointed.

  14. Caf=E9 Moccha, Jl Legian =96 = breakfast, French=20 pastries.

  15. Ryoshi's (Japanese) in Seminyak.=20 Ryoshi=20 (the Japanese place that the Japanese eat at) has moved to Jl Kartika = Plaza at=20 the Bali Garden hotel. Now air conditioned but still great = value.

  16. The new Axiom has gone the way of = the old=20 Axiom since it lost its ex-chef from Ku de Ta. Perhaps it will re-open = or be=20 replaced.

  17. Legian Snacks, Jl Padma. Ordinary=20 appearance but great food and service.

  18. Mamas German Restaurant on Jl = Legian not=20 far from Kuta is almost a legend in the islands eateries. It=92s open = every day=20 for 24 hours.

  19. Apa Kabar, Sanur Excellent food = =96 service=20 a bit slow.

  20. Warung Nasi =96 Three Brothers St = near Sri=20 Ratu Hotel. Owned by Agung Ketut. Nasi Campur !!! =96 Rp4,500.=20

  21. Warung Yogya near Garden View = hotel in a=20 lane off Jl Padma. Bali cuisine. Lontong Cap Gomeh, Rp7,000/bowl =96 = full!=20 Opposite Logi Supermarket. Short menu but great food and service. Very = clean.=20

  22. Bali Too =96 breakfast Rp10,000. = Avoid the=20 milkshakes. Not good in =9303. Dirty. Ordinary food. =

  23. The Legend =96 all-you-can-eat = breakfast=20 Rp10,000.

  24. Wina Restaurant, Jl Padma Utara. = =96 Cheap =96=20 best spring rolls and sweet/sour chicken in Bali! Good food and = excellent=20 value.

  25. The Bali Bakery has been a legend = for=20 years. It=92s on Jl Raya Kuta. Any taxi driver will find it. But = it=92s hard to=20 get a table, particularly at lunch times. Construction being = undertaken in=20 2003 will double its capacity again. Now there=92s a mark of respect = in the Bali=20 restaurant business!

  26. Warung Banyan Mas. Small. = Connected to=20 Mini Mart. Great food, best value. Rp40, 000 for 3 courses for two on = average.=20 Jl Padma Utara

  27. Gajah Gajah. Rum Jungle Road, = Legian St=20 end. Indian. Vegetable samousas!

  28. Ku de Ta =96 between Oberoi and = Legian=20 hotels. New.  $$$$$$!  Roast chicken Rp125,000; T Bone 400gm = with=20 mushrooms & Vegetables Rp 160,000; beer Rp15,000; Wine $$$; Soft = drinks=20 Rp12,000; desserts Rp40,000 plus 15% tax. Beautifully presented and = cooked to=20 perfection but be prepared for small serves as is the current haute = cuisine=20 fashion. On the beach. Best toilets in Bali (?). Some negative reports = about=20 service and the revised menu in '05. Don't offend the staff unless you = want=20 your meal ruined.

  29. The Living Room. Was once a = reasonably=20 priced place to eat and drink but food is now expensive by the best = Bali=20 standards and the wine prices are through the roof at a hefty 4 times = the=20 retail cost. If you are going there BYO is a better option as their = corkage=20 fee is Rp50,000/bottle.

  30. Legian Gardens, Melasti St. = Breakfast =91eat=20 all you want=92 Rp12,000 (A$2.40). Staff are very friendly and good = with kids. A=20 bit cramped for space and noisy. Ordinary food.

  31. Lo=92s Warung, Jl Padma, Legian. = Steaks=20 Rp40,000.

  32. Delight Caf=E9. Good eating, fancy = cooking =96=20 Tasmanian Salmon, Kiwi beef and lamb.

  33. The Veranda Restaurant, Seminyak. = In side=20 lane (next to =91Lips=92 sleaze Bar) not far from Gado Gado Road, = about 100 paces=20 north of the Bintang Supermarket. Steaks, Lamb, seafood. Consistent = quality=20 and good prices. Balivillas Staff recommendation. European trained = chef. Kid=20 friendly.

  34. Bali Aussie for breakfast =96 = Rp9,500.=20 A$1.90 !!! Set menu on Wednesday nights. Meal (5 courses) and drinks = for 2 -=20 Rp104,000 Watch for extra items on your bill but don=92t argue unless = you=92re=20 good defending yourself against knives and broken bottles. Reports in = early=20 '08 suggested the place was well past it's use-by date and even the = once=20 renown roast had become as bad as the despised breakfasts. This bad = news was=20 repeated and repeated in mid '08.

  35. CURRY !!! Gateway of India No 10 = Jl=20 Abinmanyu sometimes known as Jl Dynapura, Seminyak. Real tandoor. = Buffet on=20 Sunday nights is not to be missed. Also in Kuta and Sanur. =

  36. Glories Restaurant. Past turnoff = to Jl=20 Padma on the Legian road heading north. Buffet and A-la Carte. Free = transport=20 if you ring or they will pay part of your cab fare if their car is = busy.=20 Sunday lunch is a Balinese Buffet but now without the Bebi Guling = which lowers=20 the price but also some of the attraction. Rp25,000++ (that's plus = Government=20 charges and service charge) for 12 dishes is good value. Frequently=20 recommended but we had one of the very few poor meals here in '03 and = swore=20 never to return.

  37. Pura Bali Indah, great Chinese and = seafood. Just by Legian Beach Hotel. Frequented by oriental tourists!=20 Extensive menu.

  38. =91La Monde=92, Padma Utara = street. More=20 western than Asian. Pizzas, spaghetti, sweets etc. Interesting = outlook.=20

  39. La Corbona Restaurant. American = breakfast=20 Rp11,500. 2 eggs, bacon, toast, jam, juice, coffee, fruit. =

  40. Goes Art Bar & Restaurant, Jl = Legian.=20 Good for breakfast.

  41. Aquarius Bar & Restaurant, Jl = Legian.=20 Good for evening meal. Wide selection. Great satays. =

  42. Give Kuta Seaview (part of Seaview = Hotel)=20 a wide miss.

  43. Kopi Pot. Not only coffee but = lemon=20 meringue pie!

  44. Rhum Caf=E9, Rum Jungle Road.=20

  45. Bamboo Palace Rum Jungle Road, = just around=20 the dog-leg from the Rhum Caf=E9. Cheap but very good. =

  46. Carusoes on the beachfront in = Seminyak.=20 Good food but slow service. Great toilets.

  47. Kumala Pantai, = Seminyak. The=20 hotel restaurant is not really cheap but quite spectacular with a = devoted=20 clientele and also has great food. Very good toilets = too. Early in '06 = several=20 complaints surfaced about non-reply to bookings and reservations even = those=20 that were confirmed, double payment demanded for late check-outs, = rooms on=20 wrong floors, room thefts that didn't even raise an eyebrow in = reception .=20 Maybe the office staff don't like to be 'over worked'? Other reports=20 complained of hard beds but hope was held out that mattresses were = being=20 replaced when tourist numbers picked up.
    Beware of the local Kumala = Mini=20 Mart where prices change while you walk from the shelves to the = check-out and=20 extra items can be added to your total. The manager will be very = aggressive=20 when you point this out. The Money Changer here is also definitely NOT = to be=20 trusted.

  48. Brazil Caf=E9. Near the bungy = jump. Good=20 food and very cheap.

  49. Joni's is near the Legian = Village=20 hotel and has Balinese dancing some nights and live bands on others. = Cheap=20 eating with 'the best lumpia (Indo spring rolls) in Bali'. WiFi = internet=20 access available.

  50. Bagus Pub. Good food but the = waiters want=20 to be gossipy and sell you trips and stuff.

  51. Puri Dayu (Dayan?) Restaurant. = Padma=20 Street, great satay chicken.. Also Wena=92s near Rum Jungle Road.=20

  52. Not =91JD=92s=92, also in Padma = Street, although=20 there have recently been favourable reports after a change of = ownership in=20 2001/2002. New owner is a Kiwi and both the food and the service have = been=20 praised.

  53. Orchid Gardens, Legian, both in = Melasti=20 Street.

  54. Bali Qui (re-named La Pace in '05) = and=20 Billies, both in Garlic Lane also known as Sahadewa street. =

  55. Essence (formerly Flintstones).=20

  56. Lo=92s Warung, on old Rum Jungle = Road. More=20 of a great restaurant than a warung. Free drink on arrival. Excellent = steaks=20 (Rp 30,000) and smoked chicken breasts. Good service Toilets 7/10.=20

  57. Bakery restaurant at the new =  Hotel.=20 A/C. Non-smoking. Toilets 8/10. Family units with separate bedrooms.=20

  58. Warung Yoga on Jl Padma Utara,=20 Legian. Super clean kitchen, v. cheap and v. good. =

  59. The Crown, between the Legian = Paradiso=20 hotel and Melasti Street just down from Peanuts nightclub. Fresh food = always=20 and well priced. Australian owner provides great breakfasts =96 bacon = and eggs=20 Rp7,500. The regular repeat clientele says it all.

  60. Bali Qui off Melasti street was = re-named=20 La Pace in '05. there is some new furniture and a new but smaller menu = accompanied by a small rise in prices. Still good food. Complimentary = Arak,=20 garlic bread, cold towels. Good food, service and prices but smallish = serves.=20

  61. Uncle Norms is not recommended = although=20 revered by many. Ordinary food, cramped, loud. May be OK for under = 20=92s.=20

  62. The Bakery is north of Seminyak in = Kerobokan. Look for Jl Laksmana. There is a small deli incorporated = into the=20 Caf=E9/restaurant. Clean and cool. Worth the trip of less than 5 km.=20

  63. Warung 96 is small for good reason = =96=20 no-one goes back a second time.

  64. Warung Darsana, opposite Gecko = Boutique,=20 Legian near the Jl Legian-Padma (now Yudisthura) intersection. Another = Bali=20 menu.

  65. Legian Gardens Restaurant in = Melasti=20 Street. Good a la carte and buffet breakfasts, Rp12500. Friendly = staff.=20

  66. Ketupat, 109 Jl Legian up a = driveway=20 behind business premises. 754 209.

  67. Pelang Hotel = Restaurant. A=20 bit dearer than the outside eateries but convenient and=20 good.=20

  68. The Cin-Cin in Jl Dhyana Puri was = a=20 disappointment after the Lonely Planet=92s recommendation. The = breakfasts were=20 excellent in =9203.

  69. Legian Snacks in Jl Padma Utara is = worth a=20 miss.

  70. La Boheme. On the beach at = Seminyak near=20 the AJ Hackett=92s bungy jump tower. Nice setting. Moroccan Lamb = Rp65,000 =96=20 Sirloin and Veg Rp71,000 =96 Bintang Rp15,000 =96 soft drinks = Rp10,000.=20

  71. Warung Sobat (=91Caf=E9 = Friendly=92) in Batu=20 Belig village just north of Seminyak, about 5-7 minutes, near the Bali = Sani=20 Suites in Jl Batu Belig which is not far from Jl Petitenget. On the = right when=20 you get about 100 meters from the beach. Balinese owner Pak Made is a = trained=20 chef. Main courses about Rp14,000. Good selection of wines by bottle = or glass=20 at what could be the cheapest prices in Bali. =91A bamboo caf=E9 like = Bali used to=20 be.=92 =91Worth seeking out.=92 Check the menu and directions at the = very nice=20 website =96 http://warungsobat.trip= od.com/index.html=20 . Warung Sobat in = Seminyak is=20 being renovated and will shortly re-open (mid =9205) with all the old = staff and=20 menu favourites. It=92s worth a trip there from anywhere in southern = Bali. Call=20 738 922 to check their open times and to book. Check their menu too at = http://warungsobat.tripod= .com/menu.pdf.=20

  72. Bestest Caf=E9 was the highlight = of one=20 tourists trip. Gado Gado Rp20,000. Grilled Barracuda; Teriyaki!!!=20

  73. Warung Muslim, opposite the = Bakungsari=20 hotel has =91the best satays in the world=92.10 sticks for Rp Rp5,000; = rice=20 Rp2,000.

  74. Caf=E9 Tekor and the Zanzibar = Caf=E9 at the=20 beach end of Jl double 6.

  75. Lanay, next to the = Zanzibar (above)=20 right on the beach is really worth a visit if you like good food. Try = the=20 nachos or the tenderloin steak if you're hanging out for red = meat!!=20

  76. Mariners, on Jl Legian near = Melasti Street=20 in the lane next to La Puchetta. Very friendly staff. Try the chicken = sate.=20

  77. Indo National Bar & = Restaurant. One of=20 the latest, opened in Dec =9202 by =91Mr & Mrs GunnaLiveThere=92, = enthusiastic=20 Forum contributors and now ex-pat Aussies, Milton & Kerry, who = fulfilled=20 the dreams that many have but never realise. Jl Padma in Legian. Very = good=20 toilets and a super clean kitchen.

  78. Cucina Trattoria in = Jl=20 Laksmana in Kerobokan village which is = north of=20 Seminyak. Italian of course, and very good in both food and=20 value.=20 Complimentary bread on arrival and a choc liqueur to=20 finish.

  79. Mykonos Caf=E9 is also in = Kerobokan but with=20 a Greek bias.

  80. Kuni=92s. Japanese = but a bit=20 different on Jl Laksmana in Kerobokan. A nice view across the rice = fields from=20 the open side of the eatery.

  81. The Enoteka Restaurant at the = villa Kendil=20 in Kerobokan has great salmon and steaks, charming staff and is quiet = enough=20 to have a conversation with your companion(s). http://www.villakendil.com/ . = See the=20 map for directions at http://www.bali= roomfinder.net/map/seminyak.shtml.=20

  82. Lola=92s in Kerobokan is a French=20 restaurant.

  83. Sawasdeekha Restaurant has = been a=20 favourite with the Seminyak crowd for so long its no longer = fashionable but=20 the food and the value is still outstanding. Romantic = atmosphere.

  84. You don=92t come across an Arabian = restaurant on every street corner, even in the Middle East. You will = find one=20 in Kerobokan on Jl Laksmana. Called the Khaima it has French owners = and a=20 Moroccan menu and decor. Belly dancing on Friday and Saturday nights. = You must=20 try the mint tea.

  85. Another in Kerobokan=92s Jl = Laksmana is=20 Paul=92s Place. Large (three floors with a garden on the roof), the = menu is=20 broadly Asian.

  86. Caf=E9 Warna just a bit up-coast = (north)=20 from the Jayakarta Hotel. Tex-Mex and very good.

  87. Taste, renamed Sequenza in '05, is = a new=20 warung with a French flavour to the menu. In Laksmana street in = Kerobokan=20 (near the Oberoi). Limited wine list but real bargains for Bali. Not = classy=20 but great food.

  88. Essence Restaurant & Bar was = opposite=20 entrance to Puri Santrian, Sanur but has now (=9204) opened at 235X Jl = Petitenget in Kerobokan. French style with rich sauces and quality = food. Try=20 the duck or Ginger Ice cream and other flavours!!! Now opening for = breakfasts=20 from 8.00 am.

  89. Another new one in Kerobokan is = Lola=20 Restaurant at 58 Jl Raya Kerobokan, Ph(+ 62 361) 738 570 for = reservations.=20 Elegant, cool and French.

  90. Warung Mimpi is new (=9104)in Jl = Dhyana=20 Pura, Seminyak. Food is much better than a number of places that = really serve=20 drinks with some food to hold it down.

  91. Rumours is another new restaurant = in what=20 is becoming known as =91Eat Street=92, Jl Laksmana in Kerobokan, which = is not far=20 away being just over the =91border from Seminyak. Superb food in = western style=20 at really cheap prices. Not open for lunches yet (=9204) but this may = change.=20 First class toilets in a uni-sex arrangement which is great for = socialising at=20 the hand basins. !?

  92. New in =9204 is Warung Rai. It has = the=20 ambience of a locals=92 warung but caters to the tourist market by = being clean=20 and efficient.

  93. In Three Brothers Lane near = Brisbane=20 Tailors (also recommended), Iby Agung will serve you the most tasty = meals for=20 about Rp5,000/plate. The beer is cold too. Nasi Campur is almost = take-away but=20 nothing will hold you up for more than 10 minutes or 2 = Bintangs.=20

  94. The Bush Telegraph Pub in Jl = Abinmanyu=20 (Used to be called Jl Dynapura - and still is by many locals) is a bit = loud=20 and brash but always seems popular if you need a jolt of Aussie home = but it=20 has Indo food as well. Very friendly staff and great for = kids.=20

  95. Gosha Bar and Restaurant in = Melasti street=20 at No 7. Open grill almost on the footpath and a high vaulting roof = inside.=20 Lots of bamboo lining. Super staff, great garlic clams. Good place for = kids=20 and a great feed at good prices. One of our favourites but not after = being=20 charged Rp10,000 (Aus$1.40) for two slices of plain bread in '07. Ph=20 62-361-759 880. http://www.gosharestaurant.com/<= /A>.=20

  96. Cafe Warna next to the Jayakarta = hotel is=20 on the beachfront in Seminyak/Legian. Children's menu. Good=20 food.

  97. Romeniria, near the Pelangi Hotel, = is=20 small but serves great local food and pizzas in a beaut=20 atmosphere.

  98. Bebek Bali has = roots in Java=20 where they are well known as duck specialists in almost any form. The = Bali=20 outlet opened in '04 and will be popular.

  99. Canggu is a = village and beach=20 further up the coast from Seminyak/Kerobokan, best known by the = surfing crowd.=20 Opposite the petrol station almost is a small warung run by Nyoman the = chef=20 from the Hyatt as a pastime. Called Pasaban, it obviously has the = right=20 credentials for some great food.

  100. Also in Canggu is the = Beach House=20 restaurant at Echo Beach (Canggu is about 10-15 minutes drive from = Legian) is=20 isolated but a beautiful setting on top of a small cliff that the = surfing=20 crowd tries to keep to themselves. Indo and western food at a = delightful=20 setting. Try it for a snack one afternoon and you'll return. =

  101. A recent recommendation from a = pair of=20 recycled teenagers is for Wokabout in 'Eat Street' (Jl Laksmana) in=20 Kerobokan.

  102. Loloan (=91the lagoon=92) in Jl = Laksmana=20 blends French and Asian. New in =9205.

  103. The Queen=92s Tandoor is new = (=9205) on Jl=20 Legian in Seminyak and already claimed by some as the best Indian = outside=20 India! Although it is one of a franchised chain the current owners are = setting=20 high standards. There is an upstairs room which is cooled for relief = on those=20 beautiful hot and sticky nights. It=92s open for lunches=20 also. 

  104. Nero=92s on Jl Legian is newish = with good=20 food and the drinks are very reasonably priced.

  105. Puri Bali Indah is at the lower = end of=20 Melasti Street opposite the entrance to the Legian Beach Hotel. = Recommended=20 for excellent Chinese.

  106. The toilets and the Kintamani = Volcano=20 Pizzas at Papa=92s Restaurant in Legian are both first class. Service, = even=20 during happy hour is also very good.

  107. Padma Club =96 Not recommended by = some but=20 others visit regularly and describe it as having a flash feel with = good food.=20 Perhaps a case of 'who is the cook tonight?' Eating on table linen is = not=20 common in Bali but there are times - -  We enjoyed it in June '06 = and=20 will happily entertain friends there in the future.

  108. Kahima. Maybe one of the 3 best in = Bali=20 but certainly not well known. Great atmosphere and food. =

  109. The Pico Tapas Bar and = Churrasqueria is=20 not what you'd expect to find in the Istan Kuta Galleria but it's = maybe the=20 best outside of Spain. Try sangria, tapas, or paella. Great staff. A = return=20 visit will get you a complimentary Brochette and glass of Limoncello = while you=20 wait and a 15% discount.

  110. A place we discovered in '05 is = Haaris'=20 Bali Cyber Cafe and Restaurant in number 9 Komplex Sriwijaya, Jl Putih = Jelantic, KUTA. This is just off Jl Legian a bit south of the Melasti=20 intersection on that short 'U' shaped section of road that bypasses = the=20 one-way section of Jl Legian. Surprising food menu and quality, very = caring=20 and friendly staff and good internet connections with their computers = or plug=20 in your own laptop. Haaris (no, that's not a spelling mistake) is an = affable=20 Singaporean (or 'Silliporean') and the owner of the place. If you're = lucky=20 you'll also meet a delightful little pixie, Nina, his wife. If you = want a=20 taste sensation try their duck but pre-order it as the cooking alone = takes=20 about 5 hours for this melt-in-your- mouth sensation. =

  111. Amongst all the hip places on Jl = Laksmana=20 in Kerobokan its a bit of a surprise to find a diner which is open = 24-7. SoHo=20 is also American hip with good value food and well = patronised.=20

  112. Part of the Semaya = Seminyak Hotel is=20 their Alang Alang Restaurant (renamed Breeze on '06) which keeps pace = with the=20 other fine dining places (such as Ku de Ta, La Lucciola etc) along = this=20 beachfront. The drinks selection is especially good and reasonably=20 priced.

  113. Warung Murah is not the usual = bench and=20 rough table behind a hessian curtain but it does serve the genuine = style=20 Padang food that aficionados clamour for. It even has good toilets and = real=20 chairs.  On Jl 66 not far from the beach in Legian. The dishes = themselves=20 are not very hot but the additions you can choose will change all that = as you=20 become bolder. Beware their sambal however as it is claimed to be = strong=20 enough to put an elephant into orbit! Food and icy Bintang for two = under=20 Rp50,000 - for the real stuff remember. Not a bad way to start a habit = that=20 for many is the real Bali food experience.

  114. New in '06 is 'OURS' in Garlic = lane No3=20 (Sahadewa street), Legian. Near Dolphins and opposite Billys. Owned = and run by=20 a group who have all left their jobs in noted hotels and restaurants = to fulfil=20 their dreams. Good food, lots of enthusiasm and prices that will make = you=20 smile if you're the one who pays the bill.

  115. Two restaurants we found side by = side in=20 Jl Werkudara made us wonder why we had missed them before. They are = the Flying=20 Piano Bar and Restaurant and Yutz's Place. Both with a Middle = European,=20 Swiss/German/Austrian/something flavour they are a wondrous=20 pair.

  116. Opposite the two above is = La Casa on=20 Jl Werkudara. Steaks, pasta and seafood. Managed (in '07) by affable = Ketut=20 Arta. Ph (0361) 751 822.

  117. Ketupat Restaurant, behind = Jonathon=20 Galley on Jl Legian has great haute-cuisine Indonesian food at very = reasonable=20 prices. If you score a private bale next to the pool with candles on = the table=20 you will think the ambience is wonderfully romantic.

  118. Lucky Day, on the beach in = Seminyak.=20 Good Indo food. Excellent toilets.

  119. Goodies on the beach at = Double six.=20 Great service. Aussie owner in '08.

  120. To be really romantic try = the new=20 ('07) Breeze right on the beach in Seminyak. See 112, Semaya Hotel- = Alang=20 Alang, above.

  121. There is also a Breeze = Restaurant in=20 Jl Sahadewa, Legian ('07) which has good food at good prices and a = good=20 wireless internet connection, free if you buy a drink ('08). =

  122. Bali Beach Shack is newish = (mid '08)=20 and popular. In Garlic Lane, otherwise known as Jl Sahadewa, next to = Legends=20 and almost opposite Billy's.

  123. Drops is also newish (mid = '08) and=20 popular, Jl Padma in Legian, not far from the Padma Hotel and just = about=20 opposite the fabled Indo National.

  124. There are recent = recommendations for=20 Ketumbar on Jl Melasti. Peaceful and with good food.
         =20

DRINKING.

  1. The 'Forum = Bar'=20 run by Sammi & Sussi,=96 By the Legian Beach Lifeguard tower and a = fairly=20 prominent tree. (At the back of the Legian Beach Hotel, to the right = as you=20 face the sea.)  This is a Forumites gathering spot. 5pm =96 = sundown.=20

  2. Bali Rock. Good drinks, food nite = life =96=20 and they support Gloria=92s Crisis Care Centre.

  3. Soda Club, Legian. =

  4. Loco Bar, Jl Double Six (??)=20

  5. Kura Kura Bar & Grill. Jl = Legian up=20 from Double 6.

  6. Rivolis Club is about in the = middle of Jl=20 Legian. It's a bit of a raunchy joint where young bucks will be = exotically=20 entertained and relieved of much cash in addition to the Aus$25 entry=20 charge.

VISITING.

  1. Puta Bagus Terana, Legian =96 = Internet cafe.=20

  2. A/C CyberCafe, Speedy=92s, off = Padma St,=20 Legian.

  3. Lazale I/net Caf=E9, Jl Legian.=20

  4. Massage. OKA beauty parlour, Three = Brothers St, Legian, east of Sri Ratu towards 3 Bros Hotel. Ask for = Iluh or=20 Putu. Rp40,000/hour.

  5. Jari Menari Spa (=91dancing = fingers=92) in=20 Seminyak has featured in Harpers Bazaar magazine. =91One of the 50 = best things=20 to do in Bali=92. Minimum 75-minute sessions by males or females. Uses = Californian system. A$50 for 90 minutes. The building is = specially=20 designed along simplistic Japanese lines with large areas, running = water and=20 skylights.

  6. Also on beach at Forum Bar. Ask = Sussi to=20 point out best massagers. Back only Rp10,000.

  7. Hope Children=92s Home is not = really in=20 Legian but about 10 km north in the village of Untal Untal, about 1 km = west of=20 Sempidi on the way to Denpasar. Hope is a very strongly Christian = orphanage=20 for about 100 children that survives, really, on the charity of = visitors to=20 Bali. Tourists are welcomed and invited to see the facilities and to = talk to=20 the children. Any gift you can take, or any donation that you can make = will be=20 graciously accepted and put to good use for the benefit of the = children.=20 Chances are that the children will sing & play for you. They are = quite=20 skilled and regularly play at the larger hotels to raise funds for = school=20 fees. In 2001 they played and sang carols at the Hilton. Hope is a = Christian=20 Missionary stye institution where the children are taught the = Christian dogma=20 and strong efforts are made to convert them from their religions on = entry to=20 Christianity. http://www.helpingbali.com/.=20

  8. The regular drag show at the Hulu = Caf=E9=20 entertains many travellers.

  9. Melasti Spa at the Melasti Beach = Resort.=20 Professional with out obscene prices in US$. Less than Rp100,000 for a = lot.=20 Sometimes up to 50% discount. Trained staff.

  10. There is a new photographic = Gallery on Jl=20 Petitenget, 200X, in Kerobokan. The Richard Meyer Culture.=20

DOING.

On Jl Legian, one shop before Jl Padma (Yudistera), on = the right=20 hand side heading south, is the small Warung Darsana. It has some odd = stuff for=20 sale and serves a mean Nasi Campur, Bali style. The owners welcome = visitors who=20 just want to sit and watch the passing parade of local lovelies, = Europeans with=20 disdain for such a small establishment and savvy ex-pats who know of = this secret=20 place. There are interesting stalls nearby, some boutiques and, turning = to the=20 right on Jl Padma, there is a new cyber caf=E9 with machines that have = letters on=20 the keyboard still.

Pelangi Laundry just before Logi Supermarket on Padma = Utara, near=20 La Monde Restaurant has the best reputation in Bali. Great service.

 

DRIVERS. -=20 There are so many taxis and Kijang drivers for hire that anyone should = be able=20 to find a dozen just by listening for the call, 'Transporrrt=20 Boss?'

  1. Gusti, (Ph 081 658 3768) = has the=20 personal recommendation of ex-pats living in Bali. His English is good = and if=20 you mention David and Moira from Pacung you will be looked = after.

  2. Made Dera comes from the = southern end=20 but will pick you up in a brand new Suzuki 7 passenger vehicle with = dual A/C.=20 Ph 0818 0559 1202. A very careful and gentlemanly driver. =

PEOPLE.

  1. The Bali Travel Forum =91Bar=92 is = a service=20 run by two locals, Sammi and Sussi. It is simply a gathering point for = Forumites around a red esky, from which S & S sell beer and soft = drinks.=20 It is to be found near an old tree next to the lifeguard=92s tower on = the beach=20 and is =91open=92 from early-mid afternoon until sundown.  Many = Forum=20 friendships are cemented here and many an impromptu dinner to follow = the=20 closing of the bar has run into the small hours. Where Jl Pantai Kuta = turns=20 right and becomes Jl Melasti continue along the beach front on the new = ('04)=20 paved path for perhaps a bit over 100 metres. Look for the big tree = and the=20 life guard tower on the beach, then the red esky and the plastic=20 stools.

  2. Warung Tikus Kecil (The =91shop of = the small=20 mouse=92) is a similar venue 2 eskies north of S & S=92s, the = first turn left=20 at the end of Padma street. Run by Made and her daughter, also Made, = there are=20 wooden stools for seating rather than the plastic stools at S & = S=92s. Cold=20 beer and soft drinks are available along with the usual assortment of = beach=20 sellers who seem less intrusive than those at S & S. =

  3. There is now an 'S&S' = bar in the=20 south of Sanur, known as S&S&S. See the 'DRINKING' section in = the=20 Sanur and Denpasar notes further down.

  4. It is suggested that there is an = honest=20 money changer on Jl Raya Legian opposite the Bintang Supermarket and = Mario=92s=20 Silver. Look for M-Stan Money Changer. We prefer the Wartels along = here. Never=20 any problems and up-to-the-minute rates.

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Cheap)

  1. Puri Tanah Lot, Legian, off Jl = Melasti. Ph=20 361 752 281. Rooms from Rp80,000 inc b/f.

  2. Legian Beach Bungalows. Rp120,000. = (A$24).=20 Don=92t expect much!

  3. Sri Ratu (=91The Queen=92), Three = Brothers=20 Road, Legian. Queen Superior suites (2 storey from Rp350,000. Queen = Suites=20 (for 2) Rp250,000. Queen Deluxe "A" rooms (for 2) Rp200,000 for 2 = including=20 breakfast. Queen Deluxe "B" Rp175,000 etc etc to Queen Budget = Rp135,000 for 2.=20 And bungalows between Rp350 and 200,000. Contact rhinorok@bigpond.com. = Discounts may apply. A change of ownership/management late in '05 = might change=20 all of the past good reviews for the worse though. Only time will=20 tell.

  4. Suri Wathi Hotel, = Legian.=20 Rp55,000/nite. Serious complaints in '08. = Leaking=20 ceilings, no room towels, dirty; green pool. Good grounds and friendly = staff=20 seem to be just a 'come on'.

  5. Ned=92s Hideaway, No 3 Gang Bima = Seminyak.=20

  6. Garden View Hotel and Cottages, = opp Loji=20 Supermarket.

  7. Adhi Dharma Hotel, near Melasti = St.=20

  8. Topi Koki Hotel. Opposite = Jayakarta Hotel.=20 Rp90,000/night for twin share, A/C, serviced daily, very clean. No = pool.=20

  9. Villa Wilsana. A sort of a = guesthouse.=20 Very welcoming. Walking distance to high-class eateries like Ku De Ta, = La=20 Lucciola etc.

  10. Bali Garden Hotel. Right on the = beach.=20 Clean (not as reported in mid '08). Good breakfasts, pool, staff.=20

  11. Beware of the Bali Dwira if = you=92re=20 travelling with Break Free. =91The holiday from Hell=92. =

  12. Three Brothers Cottages. A bit = shabby and=20 lots of street noises. US$35/night.

  13. White Rose in Legian St, Legian. = Perhaps=20 more of a mid-range than a really cheap place. Reports on early '07 = suggested=20 that the dark alley to the hotel was a frightening hazard populated by = aggressive sellers, the rooms were shabby and the non-A/C breakfast = room in=20 the lobby (!) was stifling. "Moved elsewhere after the second day . .=20 ."

  14. Villa Rumah Manis has a grotty = entrance=20 road but the rooms, especially the upstairs ones, are nice Outdoor = shower etc=20 but very thin towels. Safe in room. 4 poster bed with mozzie netting = was=20 good. Rooms very clean but food very poor in quality, choice and = variety.=20 Good grounds.

  15. Adus Bungalows. In small lane in = Legian=20 opposite Tanah Lot Hotel. Rp60,000 (or less) for basic room up to = Rp200,000.=20 Breakfast included. Ask for extra towels and sheets that are included = in the=20 price. Small pool. Backpacker popular.

  16. Puri Raja Hotel, Jl Padma Utara, = Legian.=20 US$38/room/night. Includes breakfast. Close to restaurants and = supermarket. On=20 the beach =96 2 pools.

  17. Tropical Kubu, Jl Sahadewa between = Padma=20 and Melasti for families/larger groups. Double bedrooms upstairs with = fan=20 cooling, roll out beds downstairs. Living area has TV, VCR, CD bar and = dining=20 area. Equipped kitchen with fridge. House Rp300,000/night www.balibagus.com/tropical= kubu=20 .

  18. The Camplung Mas is described as a = 2.5=20 star place with a lot of problems ranging from noise through to sheets = that=20 are too short for the bed to rude staff and thin room towels although = the pool=20 towels were good. The pool bar is open 24 hours if there are customers = but the=20 pool closes at 8pm. Breakfasts are to be dreaded. On the plus side it = is=20 clean. Just off Jl Melasti. Good A/C. Rp200,000 without breakfast = which is=20 better at the nearby Legian Gardens Restaurant, all you can eat.=20

  19. Wina Hotel. Large rooms, two = pools, good=20 restaurant, quiet. Not one traveller=92s favourite: Large room but the = bed was=20 as hard as a rock and the linen didn=92t fit =96 fridge and TV, = balcony. Cobwebs=20 and dead insects: even after the morning make-up - it didn=92t feel = clean,=20 sheets could be stained or have cigarette burns: office inefficient = with=20 messages: small pool and few pool towels: dirty bathroom. The Standard = Villas=20 (negotiate and get one for Rp225,000 =96 =9204) are better than the = standard rooms=20 and only a couple of dollars more.

  20. Bakungsari. Cheap, clean, central, = friendly. TV, A/C, fridge, balcony, porch. Quiet. Clean pool. Good = toilet and=20 shower.

  21. Our own favourite has = become the Sinar=20 Bali Hotel down a little, almost sound-proof lane, off Jl Padma Utara, = right=20 in the heart of the Legian shopping and eating area and about a 3 = minute walk=20 to the beach. Its clean and unbeatable value with breakfast included. = Unlike=20 many cheap places the manager. A dapper Balinese named Wayan Gindra, = is=20 on-site every day and will ensure any complaint is promptly dealt = with. The=20 Front Office manager is Putu Suryadipta, an unflappable character who = has just=20 been promoted from the laundry man's position. That change is due to = his=20 friendly nature I'm sure. ('06) The well-maintained pool is just great = with a=20 cool bottle on Hatten's Alexandria at the end of a long day's shopping = or=20 touring. Our review is at http://www.filosbali.net/. Look = for=20 '2005, the year of the bags' in the left side column and then check = for the=20 Sinar Bali link at the bottom of that page.

  22. In '06 we accepted a 2 for = 1 offer=20 that the Baleka Resort in Legian was offering. Its not a bad little = place=20 right in the heart of Legian between Jl Padma Utara and Jl Werkudara. = For a=20 detailed description see Colleen's report on the balitravelforum.com = held in=20 the archives and on Mic's Forum at http://micbali.proboards21.com/index.cgi= ?board=3Dleg&action=3Ddisplay&thread=3D1059377313.=20 We were in one of the smaller rooms close to the pool and that put us = off just=20 a bit. The place was full, probably because of the 2-for-1 offer and = we didn't=20 have any choice. There were no internet facilities when we were there = but=20 there is a good i/net cafe just out the back entrance onto Padma = Utara, past=20 the delightful La Monde Restaurant. We'll put up some photos on our home pages in the 2006 section when = we settle=20 back home in July '06.

  23. Lokha Hotel almost = opposite the Indo=20 National restaurant. Good location, good clean rooms, friendly staff,=20 breakfast OK.

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Standard).

  1. Melasti Beach Resort. (3*). Try to = avoid=20 the standard rooms, they are poorly located, dark and dingy with no=20 balcony/veranda. The Superior rooms are better and the upgrade is not=20 expensive. Reception staff not friendly (Dec =9202 and again commented = on in=20 June =9104) good location, pool and restaurant on site; 3 hour wait = for pool=20 towels. Suggestion =96 =91Buy your own and avoid the hassle.=92  = Good cleaning=20 staff and massage ladies and spa centre. Breakfasts not as good as = they used=20 to be, =9203 and =9104 and 'terrible' in '07. Location next to the = beach is the=20 best thing about it. Security is questionable as you can go to the = desk and=20 ask for any key with no ID required. Travellers in room 174 on the = second=20 floor describe it in glowing terms =96 =91huge=92. Others describe = massive=20 over-bookings, filthy rooms, rooms not ready despite three = confirmations,=20 staff unwilling to be helpful although the manager set things right = the next=20 day - but why should this be necessary? ' - - not my idea of a family=20 hotel'.

  2. Not Jayakarta Hotel. = =91Roachville=92! Silver=20 Surfer. M=F4n 3 Sept 2001. Select your accommodation with care. Others = are full=20 of praise for the place.

  3. Indah Beach Resort. Beware = security of=20 safety deposit boxes. Intimidating staff.

  4. Legian Beach Hotel. Older hotel = but clean=20 and with good facilities including restaurant. Well developed gardens. = US$70/night. Not good service or friendly desk staff. (2002). Some = have noisy=20 rats in the walls. The Superior Villas are much better than the old = =91Hotel=20 Block=92 known as =91Superior Rooms=92, which they are not. (2003 and = again in mid=20 '08). The rooms on the ground floor in the block are dark, dank and = smell and=20 people pay Aus$150 a night for this!!! Staff not very friendly and = shuttle bus=20 not to be relied on. LBH has = some very=20 dark and dank rooms on their ground floor but they also have some = large and=20 airy Family Lofts and some bungalows that are much better.

  5. Legian Village. Nice clean rooms = but it is=20 noisy at night. Joni's Restaurant is good and a WiFi hot spot is = available. http://legianvillage.com/.=20

  6. Casa Padma. Great restaurant and=20 breakfast, beautiful rooms, friendly staff. A$50/night. Deluxe rooms = are huge=20 with 2 giant king size beds, a lounge area and table and chairs. = Aus$92/night.=20 Restaurant named 'Drops' is also good value. Staff are = great.=20

  7. Bali Imperial. Great accommodation = although it is a bit far out to be very convenient.

  8. Complaints about the Villa Pantai = Biru in=20 Seminyak and the rental company Hospitality Management Corp. seem to = be=20 legion.

  9. Intan, Legian. A bit on the = cheaper side=20 of standard rates. Bungalows in Balinese style with outdoor bathrooms = (extra)=20 are great. Uncle Norms (close) for breakfast at Rp12,500 cooked. =
    In 2002=20 some travellers were shocked at the poor condition of rooms which they = were=20 offered and refused to stay anywhere in the hotel.

  10. The next beach north of Seminyak, = before=20 Kerobokan, is at the village of Canggu. The Hotel Tugu is spectacular = with=20 villas and private plunge pools. The food is as good as any of the = better=20 known up-market restaurants.

  11. In Kerobokan =96 Villa Seri, = Umalas Kauh,=20 Kerobokan, Kuta. 1, 2 or 3 bedroom luxury, 5* service. E-mail - villaseri@balinesia.com = site =96 http://balinesia.com/villaseri=20

  12. Padma Hotel. 5* service. Not cheap = but=20 good value. Best hotel in the area. Excellent food. Renovations in = late '05=20 caused considerable angst to patrons that were not taken on board by = the=20 management.  The 'back rooms' are bad. Legian Beach Hotel was = better at=20 this time at least.

  13. Villa Coco. Beware of the villa = with the=20 very narrow stairs up to the bedroom. Noisy. Mozzies. =

  14. Pelangi, Seminyak. Fairly new. = Large=20 rooms, clean, nice environment thro=92 hotel. Good food at the Rama = Restaurant,=20 seashore restaurant, beachfront pool. ' - - better than the Patra = Jasa'. Great=20 pool and pool bar. Friendly atmosphere. Unbelievable = bathrooms.=20

  15. The Pelangi Beach Hotel - = is this the=20 same place as above? In '07 described as crowed cell blocks, nor = privacy in=20 rooms or balconies, claustrophobic. Moved out on the second = day.

  16. Kumala Pantai, = Legian. Great=20 breakfast. Nice 50m pool. No money changing option at the hotel but an = ATM at=20 the Circle K shop 100 pages right from the entrance. No laundry either = but=20 there are several excellent ones to choose from within a short=20 walk.=20

  17. Masa Inn is Rp180,000/night = including=20 breakfast which is adequate but a bit small for youngsters. Pool and = the pool=20 bar can be sources of noise into the early hours of the morning = although its=20 supposed to close at 12pm. Dual family rooms are big, Rp300,000/night = for four=20 including breakfast. Excellent A/C. Largish fridge.

  18. The Bali Mandira = in Legian=20 upset one guest in mid =9205 because the sheets were not clean on = arrival and=20 were not changed for days. In 2 weeks the bathroom glasses were never = changed=20 or washed and dried. The location of the hotel is good and with a = deluxe room=20 the use of the club lounge, internet and soft drinks are free. In '07 = they=20 would not honour their advertised rate, even for regular guests, and = seemed to=20 go out of their way to discourage Australians and New Zealanders, = preferring=20 Euro money. Again in '07 the Deluxe Cottage with Club Benefits stirred = the=20 blood of one traveller as did the rudeness of the reception they = received.=20 After a day and a night they moved to the Padma and personal=20 tranquillity.

  19. The Legian = Beach Hotel=20 is adjacent to the Mandira (above) and seems tarred with the same=20 brush.

  20. The Inna Kuta is showing it's age = and=20 might not be good value any more. The location is still great and the = gardens=20 too.

  21. The 14 Roses in Melasti = Street is=20 great value, much more so than the Inna Kuta (above). It is new = ('05?). Maybe=20 breakfasts are not as good as some but there are great places to eat = just near=20 the hotel.

  22. Robin's Place is a villa = opposite the=20 Jayakarta Hotel in the heart of Legian. Great accommodation, staff. = Very=20 clean.

  23. The Resor Seminyak came in = for a=20 severe caning in '07.  Accommodation booked months ahead and = confirmed=20 twice was not available. Management not interested in problem. =

  24. The Sentosa Private Villas = in Seminyak=20 got a mixed reaction from clients in mid '08. The rooms were huge and = all=20 bedrooms had King size beds and private indoor and outdoor bathrooms. = A big=20 thumbs down was given for the invasive mosquitos although the staff = did=20 eventually provide a local liniment for the bites and rash called = Bokashi=20 which worked wonders. The Kiddies Club was simply an un-supervised = room with=20 no programme of entertainment at all. (See 'ACCOMMODATION. = (Expensive)' below,=20 for an update.

 

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Expensive!).  There are a growing = number of=20 places in Bali where accommodation, above the generally accepted 5 star = level,=20 is becoming common. Amongst such places, villas have a decided role, and = just=20 north of the outskirts of Seminyak and Kerobokan new developments of = superb=20 quality are being built.

  1. Sentosa Private Villas and = Spa. Fairly=20 new ('07 I think), the Villas had a brief rocky patch but new and = experienced=20 management in late '08 - early '09 has more than made up for the = lapse. Jl=20 Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget. Ph (+62 361 730 333, E-mail sukarja@balisentosa.com, = Web=20 www.balisentosa.com.

# 3=20 - JIMBARAN BEACH DISTRICT=20 SECTION.

Jimbaran Beach (the emphasis is on the = first syllable=20 =96 =91JIM-baran=92) is noted for its very classy and high priced = accommodation, its=20 fishing fleet and the resultant seafood =91restaurants=92, right on the = sands of the=20 beach, which sell their seafood by weight.  They operate in the = late=20 afternoon and evening and seem to all have dodgy scales. If you = have a=20 romantic dinner here it=92s a sure bet that the wandering minstrels will = come to=20 your table and sing =91Leaving in a Jet Plane=92. Your taxi driver = will=20 probably have an =91arrangement=92 with one of the restaurants and will = take you to=20 it regardless of where you ask to go. There is no reason why you = should=20 stay if you want to go elsewhere, to a place that has been recommended = to=20 you.

A taxi from Tuban costs Rp15,000, = but=20 arrange your return trip with the driver as Jimbaran is a bit secluded = and can=20 be hard to get a taxi back to your hotel without paying through the=20 nose.

** Beware=20 of temporary tattoos. Many people have severe = reactions to=20 the chemical cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, = and which=20 is toxic and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in = children with=20 recent reports saying that one in five children will be = effected.=20 The scars after blistering may be permanent and flare up at times of = stress.=20 Refer to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html .=20 Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief but would you want = to be=20 doing this for the rest of your life - or condemn your children to = this???=20
Researchers in Germany have also uncovered a link between temporary = tattoos=20 and permanent, lifelong dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). = Sufferers=20 remain allergic to some metals, detergents and foods FOR LIFE!
** Be = even=20 more careful of permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you un-seal any sterile = equipment=20 and that you see the gun sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes = as these=20 can also transmit Hep C.

 

SHOPPING.

Jimbaran Beach (often called = Jimbaran Bay)=20 is not a recognised shopping area.  However, it is only about 5 km = from the=20 shopper=92s paradise of Kuta and less to Tuban, about 15 km to Sanur = (although=20 many travellers would not recognise this as a premier shopping area = either) and=20 about 10 km to the high class (and higher price) area of Nusa = Dua. These=20 are all less than a very cheap =BD hour taxi ride = away.

Jenggala, near the Inter Continental = Hotel=20 makes characteristic ceramics and pottery. Their = showroom=20 has fixed prices and they=92re not cheap but its high quality stuff. www.jenggala-bali.com/index ,=20 E-mail retail@jenggalashop.com. A=20 map can be found at http://wwwjen= ggala-bali.com/location/mapdetail.htm.  =20
They also have a seconds shop behind the main showroom. http://jenggalashop.= com/files/about/faq.htm.=20

See also at Lombok = Pottery,=20 Legian outlet.

EATING.

There are now three distinct = sections of=20 seafood shacks. Those at the far end are the original outlets that = established=20 the popularity of the place and are locally owned, therefore having a = stake in=20 the future and the reputation of the area. The new ones near the Four = Seasons=20 have better toilets and furniture. Some also have a full bar service. = Check all=20 prices as they tend to get better the further you go into the area. This = strip=20 is better than those between Four Seasons & Inter Continental. The = third=20 strip, closest to the airport, is best avoided, not only because they = are the=20 greatest rip-offs but also as they are possibly un-licensed by the local = authorities.
At Jimbaran Bay = beware of=20 Caf=E9 Uluwatu. A recent (mid=9205) test of their scales showed a 300% = over-weight=20 error! This means that you will pay three times the advertised price for = your=20 food. The owners laughed when confronted and insisted that the bill be = paid =96 or=20 else.
It is frequently reported that the only honest restaurants on = the strip=20 at Jimbaran are the original group of less than a dozen at the southern = end of=20 the beach, that is, further away from the airport just before the Hotel = Keraton.=20 The cooking methods used here are also different and the complaints of = dry and=20 overcooked fish are rare. Try Dena=92s on Jl Pemilisan Agung, = Jimbaran.

Seafood is sold by the =91kilo=92: = many of the=20 scales are questionable =96 =93we checked 5 with a 600ml water bottle = and all had=20 rigged scales showing in the 1.2 Kg range.=94 Always double check = prices/kilo and=20 write it down in front of staff so they know that they can=92t inflate = it on the=20 bill and tell you that you must be mistake about the original = quote. Ask=20 for the =91second price=92 menu that is much cheaper than the one = they=92ll give you=20 first. Prawns Rp60,000/Kg, lobster Rp100,000, fish = 40-50,000.

There is some lighting at the tables = but=20 mainly candles are used. It=92s a great atmosphere. Musicians = stroll=20 beach seeking tips.

You need to be early (5 pm) to get the best = seats at=20 a front table to see the sunset but the prices lower later. The = best sunset=20 view is at about 6.00-6.15 pm.

Many tourists are very disappointed = by what=20 they see as poor food, poor service, rip-off prices and a cheap = atmosphere. This=20 is even before they mention the pollution that washes about your feet if = you=92re=20 =91lucky=92 enough to get a seaside table. Others rave about the=20 place.

=91White Devil=92s=92 favourites =96 =
The=20 original restaurants are the best. Negotiate price = first. Select only=20 firm fish with clear eyes and red gills. One litre water bottle = weighs one=20 kilo. (For checking scales.) 
You pay only for the seafood you = select=20 & drinks. The peanuts entr=E9e, salad and platter of fruit at the = end should=20 be included.
Fat Red Snapper. Barracuda. Small Tuna. Small squid. = Small=20 prawns if fresh (firm).
Bayung Restaurant - Good=20 fish/chef/sauces/service. 
Bamboo Restaurant =96 Good if the = fish is seen=20 to be good.

  1. Jimbaran Beach Cafe. =

  2. Caf=E9 Bagus, Jimbaran Beach.=20

  3. Caf=E9 Teba.

  4. Intan Caf=E9, Jimbaran Beach.=20

  5. Sharkies Restaurant = (Sharkys?). Often great food. Maybe not the best for value. Some of = the cooks=20 tend to over-do things and the food ends up dry and tasteless. Watch = the=20 char-grilled prawns particularly. Go to the toilet before you leave = your=20 hotel.=20

  6. Marina Restaurant. Bad=20 scales. Overpriced but good quality.

  7. Jukung Caf=E9.

  8. Pesalakan Caf=E9, on Jl 4 Seasons, = Muaya=20 Beach, Jimbaran Beach.

  9. Circus Caf=E9.

  10. Pudac Caf=E9. - Some subsequent = bad reports=20 in April =9201 and Nov 01 =96 Scale more than double real weight.=20

  11. Lia=92s. On the = right of the=20 Keratin as you face the beach. Basic caf=E9 but wonderful sauces and = probably=20 correct scales. 1 Kg prawns (20) and a red snapper, soft drinks and = aquas for=20 2 =96 Rp312,000.

  12. Pantari Sari Caf=E9. =

  13. Bamboo Caf=E9 is variable in=20 quality. Depends on the chef of the night?

  14. Bayang in centre section is=20 good. (See White Devil=92s selections above.)

  15. Mama Donos.  5 people, 5 = prawns,=20 snapper, salads etc + drinks =3D Aus$14.

  16. Melasti Caf=E9. A bit dearer = than=20 others but no rip-offs. (?)

  17. Sunset Bali Caf=E9 recommended by = ex-pat=20 resident of 12 years. They will transport you to and from if you phone = them.=20 About A$50 per couple.

  18. New Melasti Caf=E9. Pick up = from=20 hotel. Ph 709 083.

  19. Caf=E9 or Warung Roma is good but = beware of=20 the copy-cat Caf=E9 Rama (even the =91a=92 in the sign looks like an = =91o=92). It=92s=20 a disaster and a rip-off.

  20. Better to avoid the Uluwatu = Caf=E9, ('01).=20 A=20 recent (mid=9205) test of their scales still showed a 300% over-weight = error!=20 This means that you will pay three times the advertised price for your = food.=20 The owners laughed when confronted and insisted that the bill be paid = =96 or=20 else!

  21. White Sands has a growing = reputation.=20 (Late 2002.)

  22. Quatro=92s. close to the airport = end. Open=20 eating on the beach or enclosed upstairs. Tablecloths & finger = bowls!=20 Dinner for 2 =96 Rp450,000.

  23. Not strictly in Jimbaran but part = of the=20 huge GWK Cultural Park on the slopes of the Bukit Peninsula south of = Jimbaran,=20 is a new (03) restaurant, =91deMEMEdi=92. Elegant, open air, = unbelievable views=20 down over Jimbaran, Kuta, Benoa and Sanur by day or night. Western and = Indo=20 fare. They serve only Wine of the Gods (local) but you can bring your = own =96=20 corkage Rp30,000/bottle !!! Dinner for two for Rp100-200,000.=20

  24. Even further away = from Jimbaran=20 is the Blue Point restaurant on the edge of a spectacular cliff near = the=20 Uluwatu temple. Memorable views over the airport approaches and the = Jimbaran=20 fishing boats. Cheap and good food with a special pool in the adjacent = property. Fare from Kuta is about Rp70,000 with waiting time included. = Afternoon passes are available if your hotel booking ends at noon and = your=20 flight leaves late at night. Rp150,000 adults and Rp85,000 children, = includes=20 pool use, towel, meal and drink. Great value and a nice way to end a = Bali=20 stay.

  25. Locals recommend = Menaga near=20 the Four Seasons end of the beach. Clear, good prices and correct = weight=20 without bill padding at the end - but this might be only because they = are=20 locals.

  26. Di Mare is the restaurant = of the Karma=20 Resort (ex Royal Jimbaran). Interesting setting for dinner or lunch = with=20 American chef (late '05).

DRINKING.

I don't know of any = specialist bars in=20 Jimbaran but any of the dozens (hundreds?) of restaurants will sell you = a beer=20 at least.

VISITING.

  1. Be at=20 the beach for spectacular sunsets.

  2. Bali=20 Cliff pool. Spectacular infinity pool. Rp100,000/day including towels. = Cost of=20 any food or drinks you want is deducted from this charge so it not a = total=20 loss although charges are expensive; pasta dish Rp65,000 =96 small = Bintang=20 Rp22,000. Monkey views about sunset.

DOING.

  1. Most=20 people go to Jimbaran in the late afternoon because it has a = reputation as a=20 romantic place where you can eat beautiful seafood at a table while = the water=20 laps around your ankles and wandering minstrels sing to your beloved = while the=20 sun sets in spectacular fashion. The reputation is largely overrated. = I=20 recommend going in the day to see the harbour activity, the marine = workshops,=20 the fish market, the sweeping beach and the stuff that will wash = around your=20 ankles at night.  

  2. Take=20 oranges/mandarins to feed monkeys at Tanah Lot instead of buying = peanuts.=20 Tanah Lot has a good market with a range of goods which is  = different=20 from that at Kuta etc.

  3. Visit=20 the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park (GWK) with the giant bronze = statues on=20 the foothills above Jimbaran near the university. You will be = gob-smacked at=20 the views and the scale of the limestone excavations and the=20 statues.

  4. Off the main road through = Tanjung=20 Benoa is a small street named Br Tenkulung between a yellow Kodak shop = and the=20 Nyoman Bali restaurant and Bar. Less than a kilometre along this = road/track,=20 after turning right along a road just wide enough for a vehicle but = narrows=20 further past some homes. Soon you'll see large buildings with yellow = roofs not=20 far off the beach and you will come to the seafood farms along the = beach where=20 you will also find turtles, birds, lizards snakes etc. Make a donation = to the=20 animal fund and you will save yourself the US$40 excursion fee and be = made=20 welcome by some caring, honest and real Balinese. =

DRIVERS.

It has often been noted that drivers = are=20 difficult to find at Jimbaran. It might be a good idea to arrange for = the driver=20 who takes you there to come back and pick you up at a certain place and=20 particular time, then hope that someone else doesn't offer him more to = take them=20 home and abandon you.

Be careful of the drivers who will = only take=20 you to restaurants where they get a commission, which is secretly added = into=20 your bill.

PEOPLE.

Most people at Jimbaran are there to = earn=20 money!

One of the quiet characters we have = met,=20 quite by accident, is an old boat builder who works under a thatch roof = that=20 bridges the gap between two other sheds. We take him a few woodworking = hand=20 tools each trip now (there is no power at his lean-to, nor at his home = so we are=20 told) and he now actually stops work to smile at us for a minute or two. = He and=20 our driver have a conversation but I've got no idea what they say. = Imagination=20 creates a wild story though. There are some photos at one = of our=20 page if you'd like to see him.

ACCOMMODATION. = (Standard)

All the big names are here, like The = Intercontinental, The Ritz-Carlton, The Bali Cliff Resort. Some are very = good,=20 all very expensive. I cannot offer any personal opinions for obvious = reasons.=20 Most quote costs in US dollars.

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Cheap)

  1. Keraton Hotel. Cheap for Jimbaran = Bay I=20 think. Aus$65/night per person. Less than 5 Km from Kuta, there is a = shuttle=20 bus or a taxi is Aus$3.

  2. The Puri Bambu is US$45 for a = deluxe room.=20 This is much cheaper than several hundred dollars at some of the = top-flight=20 establishments. It is spotlessly clean and well managed. Good = food at=20 reasonable prices. There are really only seafood restaurants at = Jimbaran.=20 Taxis to Tuban are about Rp15,000 and Rp20,000 to Kuta.=20

#=20 4 - = NUSA = DUA/BENOA/BUALU=20 DISTRICT SECTION.

For the=20 story of one of our stays in Nusa , including a walking tour around = Tanjung=20 Benoa and some photos, click on this link - http://www.filo= sbali.net/BaliSagaNusPics99_files.

The Kuta=20 bombing has hit Nusa Dua and Bualu very hard as this was the area for = the top of=20 the market tourists, those who could afford to holiday anywhere- and = after the=20 bombing they chose to holiday anywhere else in droves. Many of the = established=20 shops and eateries that may be mentioned here have now (=9203) closed, = maybe=20 temporarily or maybe permanently. Only time will tell.

In March '05 it was reported = that only=20 one shop remained open in the huge Galeria shopping complex in Nusa Dua. = It=20 should be presumed that while tourist numbers are still down in Nusa = there will=20 be other closures in Benoa and Bualu and the traveller to this up-market = area=20 should simply expect to 'wing it' for the first day or two and not rely = totally=20 on the information under.

** Beware=20 of temporary tattoos. Many people have severe = reactions to=20 the chemical cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, = and which=20 is toxic and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in = children with=20 recent reports saying that one in five children will be = effected.=20 The scars after blistering may be permanent and flare up at times of = stress.=20 Refer to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html .=20 Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief but would you want = to be=20 doing this for the rest of your life - or condemn your children to = this???=20
Researchers in Germany have also uncovered a link between temporary = tattoos=20 and permanent, lifelong dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). = Sufferers=20 remain allergic to some metals, detergents and foods FOR LIFE!
** Be = even=20 more careful of permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you un-seal any sterile = equipment=20 and that you see the gun sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes = as these=20 can also transmit Hep C.

 

SHOPPING.

  1. The Nusa=20 Dua hotels area is expensive, particularly the old Galeria shopping = area now=20 renovated and called Bali Collection although those few shops that = survive=20 after the bombing are a little more reasonable now that even the = Japanese=20 tourists are seeking cheaper lodgings and better bargains. Jalan = Pratama that=20 runs along the short peninsula towards Benoa has many good value cafes = &=20 restaurants. The local village of Bualu is also cheap.=20

  2. The re-newed and renamed = Galleria=20 mentioned above has (in '07) become the Bali Collection. The = department store=20 that used to be Keris is now Sogo and, like the brand name stores, it = is=20 expensive, perhaps in the hope of attracting the Japanese tourists who = have a=20 cultural problem with bargaining or appearing to buy cheaply. Some of = the=20 restaurants here belie their plastic appearance and are actually very = good for=20 a mid-shopping snack. Security is tight here with guards and metal = detectors=20 at all doors. In the shops there are often bargain bins that really = are a=20 bargain.

  3. The Bualu Markets on each = side of the=20 road to Nusa Dua are good as well as peaceful. A change from Kuta and = Legian=20 markets.

  4. Many of=20 the well-known clothing brands have outlets in Nusa, mainly in the = Bali=20 Collection/Galeria, and seem to have constant sales at almost = unbelievable=20 discounts.

  5. There are beach sellers as = you would=20 expect but they don't bother you in the resort beaches unless you = approach=20 them, then they are quite like any others on any beach in Bali. On the = Nusa=20 beach, about behind the Bali Collection/Galeria, between the Hyatt and = the=20 Melia Bali hotels, there is a little bay overlooked by temples on the = 'two=20 islands' that give Nusa Dua its name. This is where the locals come to = play=20 and socialise and to pray on festive days and to shop at the little = stalls=20 that are set up there along the edge of the beach palms. After the = heat of the=20 afternoon is over, say about 5 pm and on Sunday mornings you can get = real=20 local food, cheap, and a good chat with remarkable shopping bargains = thrown=20 in. Its close to what some people might cal 'the real Bali'. =

  6. Change=20 money at PT Central in Kodak shop opposite Club Bali Mirage about half = way=20 along Jl Pratama, or at the independent stall a few steps = north.

  7. There is a good tailor = about 100 paces=20 on the right from the Peninsula Hotel entrance.

  8. Bualu Markets on both = sides of Jn=20 Ngurah Rai Bypass road just at the Nusa Dua entrance is small but very = friendly and cheap. Range as good as the Kuta and Legian markets. Ask = for what=20 you want and they will try to find it for you.

  9. The Tragia Supermarket and = Department=20 store is also on Jl Ngurah Rai, a little further from Nusa. Has lost = much of=20 its class in recent years ('07) and it will be a loss if the apparent = closure=20 actually does eventuate. Still some bargains despite (or perhaps = because of?)=20 its state.

  10. Pantai Mengiat has lots of = little=20 stalls and tailoring workshops as well as nice warungs. Well worth a = leisurely=20 stroll with lots of stops for a cold drink and a friendly chat with = the=20 locals.

  11. Along Tanjung Benoa there = are many=20 shops, some with quite different goods if you look. Well worth a long = stroll=20 but not in the heat of the day. Collect restaurant business cards so = you have=20 a supply of phone numbers to ring later for their free transport from = your=20 hotel.

  12. Kiki Leather, on the left = entering=20 Tanjung Benoa, just past a Circle K, near a PT Central money changer = and=20 opposite the Bali Mirage Resort.

EATING.

Eating in=20 the hotels of Nusa Dua is an experience =96 but an expensive one. =
There are=20 restaurants and cafes in the Nusa shopping complex, called =91The Bali=20 Collection=92, that are good and a bit cheaper. Try Coco Bistro. Pica = Tapas is not=20 the best for quality or taste ('08)
There is a village nearby, = within=20 walking distance of many hotels, called Bualu. Eating here is as good as = the=20 Bali Collection and cheaper still.
If you are staying in one of the = Tanjung=20 Benoa hotels you will find hotel eating about on a par with The Bali = Collection,=20 but on the main road through the peninsula (Jalan Pratama) you will find = a great=20 range of magnificent, small restaurants, cafes and = warungs. (=91Warung=92 is=20 the local word for a small community eating-place. It is now often used = however,=20 to give a local flavour to a restaurant or caf=E9.)
(=92Jalan=92, = abbreviated to=20 =91Jl=92, is the Bahasa Indonesia word for road.) Most of the = restaurants around=20 here will give you free transport to and from your = hotel.

Look for=20 Jl Pantai Mengiat also, at the southern end by the Hilton and Putri = Bali. It=20 runs along the edge of Bualu village. Host of good eateries=20 here.

  1. Jukung=20 Seafood Caf=E9 Jl Pratama, (Jukung is a traditional outrigger sailing = boat with=20 small triangular sail. Most now have outboard motors. Also known as = Prahu.)=20 Opposite Peninsula Beach Resort on dark section of road. Very well = patronised.=20 Free transport in Nusa. 773 902

  2. Bola=20 Bali Caf=E9 & Bar, Jl Pratama #85D Nusa Dua. Opposite the Aston. = Well=20 patronised. 775 490, free transport, fresh food daily, purified water, = welcome=20 drink and garlic bread. Cuisines including. Italian. =

  3. Bumbu=20 Bali, ****. On Jl Pratama $$$ opposite Nusa Dua Clinik. Has a=20 recommended Balinese cooking school 3 times each week which is fitting = for one=20 of Bali's most frequently recommended eateries.

  4. Nyoman=20 Rest., On Jl Pratama Nusa Dua.

  5. Caf=E9=20 Bagus Bar & Rest. Jl Pratama Nusa Dua. 772 716. Small, good food, = value=20 (Gado Gado Rp9,500) single toilet could make the whole place 9/10 - = but it=20 wouldn=92t flush, - 3/10. Pity!

  6. Warung=20 Bali on Jl Pratama.

  7. Just off Jl Pratama = towards the beach=20 is Kendi Kuning which is great for seafood and has a nice relaxed=20 ambience.

  8. Kacek=20 Restaurant.

  9. Eveh=20 Warung, Benoa.

  10. Maxi=20 Boga, Nusa Dua.

  11. Bali Bistro, Bualu Village = where many=20 value places are to be found.  Transport provided. International = and=20 Indo. Friendly staff. Sate Camput Rp25,000.

  12. The same menu can be found = at Laguna=20 on Jl Mengiat.

  13. Bali=20 Epeh, Jl Pratama, Nusa Dua.

  14. Mini=20 Restaurant. Opposite Novotel Hotel. Good and cheap. Recommend for = breakfast. Value, even when cab fare from Nusa is included in cost. = You=92ll=20 often get 20% discount as a return customer. The laundry next door is = very=20 good and cheap.

  15. Bali=20 Caf=E9, Jl Pratama near Novotel, Tanjung Benoa.

  16. The Hann=20 Restaurant, Jl Pantai Mengiat, Bualu. Ph 77 6565. It was very good but = we had=20 bad experiences in 2000, which probably means we will not return.=20

  17. Lotus=20 Garden, Bualu village. Good food but a bit noisy.

  18. Mentari=20 Ming Garden, Bualu, on Jl Pantai Mengiat. Ph 772 125. They will = pick=20 you up and there are complimentary drinks on arrival. Good food and = nice=20 ambience.

  19. Nelayn.=20 Bualu Village. 773 534. Call them for a pick-up.

  20. Nyoman's Beer Garden, = Pantai Mengiat,=20 Nusa Dua. Free local transport (as will most local eateries). Favoured = by=20 German tourists because of the German flavour to the menu (curried = German=20 wurst Rp34,000 piled on the plate) and by other nationalities for the=20 International (Friccandels Rp32,000) and Indo fare (Nasi Goreng=20 Rp30,000).  Quite cheap and with entertainment most = nights.

  21. Mai Mai, next to Nyoman's = (above).=20 Transport, Mexican, Indo and international. Enchiladas = Rp40,000.

  22. Koki=20 Bali, Bualu village. Ph 772 406.

  23. Jala=20 Restaurant, Bualu village. Ph 771 203.

  24. Tropical Cafe. Bualu = Village markets=20 is a market level eatery rather than one for fine dining.

  25. Santorinis, Jl Pratama = opposite the=20 Conrad. Transport locally. Spectacular middle East decor, Greek fare = mainly=20 but also international. Kreas Beureskarapa Rp17,500.

  26. Betwen the Hilton and the = Hyatt there=20 is Yasa Segara, claimed by a local to have the best nasi goreng in all = of=20 Bali.

  27. La Scala, Jl Pratama = opposite the=20 Grand Mirage Hotel and a bit upmarket like the near neighbours. = Upstairs area=20 gives interesting street views. Different but strange decor. Bali = Chicken=20 Rp50,000; Tenderloin Rp75,000.

  28. Bale=20 Banjar, Bualu, Ph 771 953.

  29. Kejak=20 Bali, Tanjung Benoa. Great steamboat dinner. Free transport from Nusa = Dua=20 hotels. Cooking classes=92 also good value.

  30. Lhai=20 Lhai =96 Canton Chinese =96 on main road.

  31. El=20 Pirata International =96 Pantai Mengiat St Bualu village =96 Seafood.=20

  32. Ming=20 Garden, Bualu. Cheap but good. They will arrange transport for = you.=20

  33. Coco's Bistro is opposite = the Aston=20 and next to the Peninsula Resort on Tabnjung Benoa. Very popular in = '06-7 with=20 live music and local dancers.

  34. Like Dim Sum? Try Tao Li, = part of the=20 Nikko Hotel restaurant. Extensive menu at about Rp 15,00 per serve. = Green Tea=20 or champagne.

  35. Yasa Segara on Pantai = Mengiat near the=20 beach end. Run by local villagers. Very tasty fare, very cheap, very = friendly.=20 Nasi Goreng Rp25,000.

  36. If you really must there = is a=20 Starbucks Coffee shop where you can ignore the superior Bali Koppe and = have=20 the bland international drink. There is also a Baskin Robbins to = extend the=20 cultural disaster. What next - a Disneyland dress-up welcoming=20 committee???

  37. On the beachfront by the = Ramada Benoa=20 there is a great Thai restaurant. Called Tao I think. =

DRINKING.

There is no doubt that = drinking in any=20 of the bars in your Nusa Dua hotel will be an elegant experience, and an = expensive one.
If your tastes are limited by the depth of your pocket = then=20 get a cab to the middle of Tanjung Benoa and walk up or down Jl Pratama, = the=20 restaurant strip.

VISITING.

  1. Tiger=20 Jam Laundry opposite the Hyatt. Will deliver to hotels. Very cheap and = good =96=20 =9220 pairs of knickers for A$2.10=92.

  2. Novotel=20 Hotel. Bronze by Dali as tribute to Newton. 20=92 (6m.) tall, which = was an=20 attraction, is no longer there. Good breakfast is included but = generally the=20 food expensive. The excellent Mini Restaurant is just a few minutes = walk away.=20 Live entertainment at night. Active Kids Club. Many beach activities = along=20 adjacent foreshores but look out for dangerous situations and check = the fine=20 print on your travel insurance.

 =20 DOING.=20

All sorts of water sports are offered, along = the Tanjung=20 Benoa beaches in particular, but beware of un-safe situations, and if = you are=20 female, beware of fairly blatant groping when uncontrolled opportunities = are=20 presented to the =91handlers=92 at activities such as para = sailing. Look=20 before you leap!

  1. Blue=20 Oasis Beach Club has aggressive manager.

  2. Fishing=20 =96 Tanjung Benoa, on the peninsula point north of Nusa Dua. (Not = Benoa Harbour=20 which is about 25 km away around the other side of the bay nearer=20 Sanur.)

  3. Cooking=20 classes. Kejak Bali & Bumbu Bali. See Restaurant. List = above.=20

  4. Besakih=20 has the most aggressive =91temple guides=92. Whole trip = unpleasant.=20

  5. There is=20 a seaplane excursion from Benoa Harbour. US$150/person for 1 hour = flight time,=20 2 stops, lunch and snorkelling. Cheaper excursions available and = cheaper fares=20 for up to 6. The scenery from the air is magnificent. Contact pilot darrel_hansen@hotmail.com = .=20

  6. Geger Beach or 'Pantai Geger', just = south of Nusa=20 Dua past the Bali Golf and country club and near the Pura Geger that = you can=20 see on the cliffs, is reputed to be one of the best swimming beaches = in=20 southern Bali. Not well known, although all the taxi drivers seem to = be able=20 to get you there, it is deep enough to really have a swim but not = rough from=20 surf waves or with very dangerous currents. There is a small beach = with a bit=20 of shade, a few massage ladies and a little warung where you can get a = drink.

DRIVERS.

Tanjung Benoa is an open cab = area where=20 you will find Blue Bird Group cabs and others. Beware of White cabs even = when=20 ordered thro=92 hotels.

It=92s not=20 easy to hire a cab off the street in Nusa. There seems to be some sort = of ban on=20 hailing cabs from out of the area. Perhaps =91local=92 Gold cabs pay a = premium to=20 operate there?

PEOPLE.

ACCOMMODATION. (Standard =96 Means rather = expensive in=20 Nusa but not so bad down the Benoa Peninsula a = bit.!)

  1. Inter-Continental. =

  2. Hilton nicer than Sheraton Indah. = (The=20 Indah has been re-named The Westin =96 =9203).

  3. Grand Mirage has a nice beach. = Seaview=20 rooms are especially good. Nice buffet breakfast. =

  4. Novotel Benoa, get a beachside = room.=20 US$108/night double occupancy including. breakfast. Great landscaping. =

  5. Klub Bali Mirage. Clean, spacious = rooms,=20 good staff, service, food. Tanjung Benoa.

  6. Nusa Dua Beach Hotel. $100 / night = for=20 standard room.

  7. Swiss Bel-hotel Bali Aga = is about=20 $90/night for a large room near the pool with breakfast included. Nor = near the=20 beach but there are hotel shuttle busses that run fairly frequently. = The=20 restaurant menu is limited.

ACCOMMODATION.. = (Cheap)=20

  1. Lamun Guest House, Nusa Dua. = Adjacent to=20 Bualu Hotel.

  2. Century Benoa. Newish. Used to be = the=20 never-completed Holiday Inn at Benoa. Great facilities now. $49 on = I/net inc=20 breakfast.

  3. Peninsula Beach Resort opposite = Jukung=20 Seafood Restaurant.

  4. Villa Bintang Resort, Tanjung=20 Benoa. On the beach. Nice grounds, big rooms. =

#=20 5 - = SANUR/DENPASAR & = LEMBONGAN=20 ISLAND DISTRICT SECTIONS.

Sanur is a=20 quieter tourist centre on the east coast while Denpasar is the capital = of Bali=20 and a business/government centre inland, north west of = Sanur.

Sanur is=20 the jump off point for Lembongan Island. Travel by new Aristocrat ferry. = One day=20 trip with lunch. See separate Lembongan = section=20 after "Accommodation=92, below. The Bali Hai boat trip seems to get more = favourable reviews than the Island Explorer.

Early in=20 the morning (7 am or thereabouts) you can see the local boats for = Lembongan=20 being loaded with produce for the trip. This is north of the Grand Bali = Beach=20 hotel, up near Jl High Tullah. If you=92re game passengers will be taken = for only=20 Rp12,000. There is a warung on the beach that is good for breakfast = while you=20 are entertained by the activity. There are safer options available for = the trip.=20 (See below.)

One of the=20 great Bali experiences is to get up early and watch the sun come up over = the=20 ocean. Even better if you have a bottle of cold champagne to share with = a=20 spouse, or a lover, or a friend or with any two or all = three.

** Beware=20 of temporary tattoos. Many people have severe = reactions to=20 the chemical cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, = and which=20 is toxic and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in = children with=20 recent reports saying that one in five children will be = effected.=20 The scars after blistering may be permanent and flare up at times of = stress.=20 Refer to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html .=20 Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief but would you want = to be=20 doing this for the rest of your life - or condemn your children to = this???=20
Researchers in Germany have also uncovered a link between temporary = tattoos=20 and permanent, lifelong dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). = Sufferers=20 remain allergic to some metals, detergents and foods FOR LIFE!
** Be = even=20 more careful of permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you un-seal any sterile = equipment=20 and that you see the gun sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes = as these=20 can also transmit Hep C.

Many tourists scorn Denpasar = as a=20 tourist attraction apart from the shopping at Matahari, Ramayana and to = a lesser=20 extent Rimo (for electronic stuff) and Tiara Grosir or adventuring into = the=20 sometimes odiferous Badung markets on the river or Jl Sulawesi, the gold = and=20 fabric street not far from the markets. The town is, however, steeped in = the=20 history of Bali. At the main intersection there is a large statue with = all the=20 civic building on one corner next to the city parks and nearby is the = Inna Bali=20 Hotel , the first in Bali (which still invites passers-by to enter and = enjoy a=20 cold fruit cocktail or similar) dating from the earliest days of the = Dutch=20 incursion that turned into an occupation despite great resistance from = the=20 Balinese. Here to you will find the cultural and historic museum and = Puputan=20 Square which commemorates the last great suicidal advance by the royal = house=20 hold and loyal  followers into the rifles and canons of the = Dutch.
There=20 is a good historical and cultural Museum in Denpasar, dating from 1931. = Part of=20 the attraction of the place is the buildings as well as the = displays.
Of=20 particular interest to Bird fanciers will be the Denpasar Bird Market = just off=20 Jl Veteran, open daily.

Northwest=20 of Denpasar is the district of Tabanan. It is a little out of the way = being a=20 bit further west than the common track up to Singaraja/Lovina but has = some=20 wonderful attractions:
* Dance performance palaces at Krambitan west = of=20 Tabanan town,
* the butterfly park north of Tabanan town,
* Yeh = Panas=20 (sacred hot sulphurous springs used by the Japanese during their = occupation of=20 Bali) further north still, about 12 Km.
* Pura Batukaru, ancient and=20 weathered, further north still, about 20 Km, in the foothills of Gunung = (Mount)=20 Batukaru,
about 5 Km further to remarkable rice terraces,
* About = 16 Km=20 north of Tabanan town and a little east is the village of Marga which = has a=20 shrine to I Gusti Ngurah Rai, a martyr in the wars against the Dutch = forces. The=20 International Airport is named after him.
A green bemo ride around = Sanur is=20 Rp1,000 if you have the right money, or anything that you have above = that if=20 you=92ve not got change. Rp2,000 will get you to = Denpasar.

Beware of=20 Mr Gusti who hangs around the beach walkway usually. He claims to be a = retired=20 teacher, businessman etc and invites you to meet his family to help = their=20 English (Dutch/German/etc) language skills. They are con artists of the = best=20 calibre and will relieve you of your money in one way or=20 another.

.

SHOPPING=20 The Sindhu Beach markets, near = Mangoe=92s=20 Restaurant and the Bonsai Restaurant, are generally regarded as the best = in the=20 Sanur area. The often-confused Sanur Beach Markets are near the Segara=20 Hotel.

  1. Freighting extra home =96 Bumi Ayu Hotel, = Bumi Ayu Lane.=20 45kg min.

  2. PT = Central Money changers in Kodak shops and in = larger dept=20 stores are always reliable but these days they will not accept = photocopies of=20 your passports for changing Travellers Cheques. A better option is to = find a=20 Wartel (government telephone shop which also serve as local money = changers.=20 They are honest and reliable, and give a receipt like PT Central but = they will=20 accept P/copied passport which is always safer to carry than the real = thing.=20 In early '06 there were several complaints of poor changing at Kodaks. = Discovery Plaza shopping centre was mentioned  amongst others. = Always=20 check your money and have a friend double check if possible  .=20

  3. There is a Wartel (telephone and posting office) opposite La = Taverna,=20 about in the middle of the Sanur strip.

  4. Money changing.=20 Two shops together on the Grand Bali Beach side of Sindhu Beach = markets are=20 honest. They sell postcards & CD=92s.

  5. There is evidently=20 an honest =91Authorised=92 moneychanger just outside the Besakih = Hotel, first shop=20 on the right as you come out of the hotel property.

  6. Money Changer.=20 Near Segara =96 walk to beach tern left thro rest. Photo-gift shop on = other side=20 before Jl Segara.

  7. Hardy Grosir is a=20 newly renovated multi-story supermarket in the heart of Sanur. In = =9203 it had=20 many opening special discount items throughout the store. Prices are=20 comparable with other places in Kuta and Denpasar. In addition to the = usual=20 foodstuffs etc goods include furniture, electrical, motor scooters, = cosmetics,=20 musical instruments, toys, patisserie, craft items and silver goods, = art=20 works, food hall and a play area for kids.

  8. Tootsies, Stall 28=20 Sindhu Beach. Sanur Bch. Fixed prices, good for first timers who are = concerned=20 about skills of bartering.

  9. Keni=92s, Stall 25=20 Sindhu Markets. (Not # 21!!)

  10. Jenny=92s Shop 41,=20 Sindhu Beach Markets. Often a bit cheaper than the renowned = Tootsies.=20

  11. Jeni = =96 shop 29.=20 Fixed price.

  12. Tailor opposite Tootsies.

  13. In = Jl Tamblingan=20 in Sanur there is a recommended tailor near the Made 2 Homestay. From = the=20 Sanur night market site go towards Hardy's Department store and she = (Made) is=20 on the left almost opposite the Lippo Bank which is on a bend in the=20 road.

  14. Beware Sarina=20 Tailor in the Sindhu Beach Markets. Often excuses and also often not = as you=20 ordered, nor the price as you agreed! Flower & Petal next door to = Sarina=20 is much better.

  15. Prescription Glasses, Optik =96 = A$38 up, 1=20 day service. Legion, Denpasar, Galleria. Tiara Dewata mall, Denpasar = =96 New.=20 Single focus for funny eyes cost less than A$60! $$$$ High = fashion and=20 top quality Italian frames also available.

  16. Gold =96 Hasanuddin St, Denpasar. & bottom of = Sulawesi St.=20 18kt. Rp59-70,000/gm. US$10/gram 22ct. (1999) (Up to Rp 85,000 as gold = prices=20 rose after September 11 2001 terrorist attacks in USA.) Gold in = Bali is a=20 strong colour with an orange tint =96 is this =91Chinese Gold=92 = alloy? See the shopping = section in=20 the Sanur/Denpasar district notes. Prices are much cheaper than the = recognised=20 centres of Celuk, Ubud, Kuta etc. Almost everything priced by weight = according=20 to the day's gold price.

  17. The = Denpasar Markets are not to be missed! A =91guide=92 will = try to attach=20 herself to you and demand money when you leave. They get commission = from=20 shopkeepers if you buy something =96 which means that you have paid=20 extra.
    Umble-umbles, or Penjor, the tall slim flags flown on bamboo = poles=20 are available on the top floor. Cost approx Rp30,000.

  18. If = you are=20 interested in a night market try the Kereng Bemo station in Denpasar. = At about=20 4.00 pm it slowly closes as a station and changes into a market for = food,=20 clothes jewellery, and a lot of other stuff. As it is mainly for = locals the=20 prices are amazing but tourists are welcomed.

  19. pcMac, Jl Iman=20 Bonjol 266 D/1, Denpasar, 489 747. Full discs Rp150,000. Might contain = 2-6=20 programs depending on size. Fax order from hotel for credibility 24 = hours=20 before. Best of all visit a couple of days before you want to pick up = the software and pay a deposit of Rp2-300,000 for = the=20 software they are able to get for you. They have now ('07) expanded = into=20 another outlet called pcMax at the top of the first escalator in the = new=20 Carrefour department store on Sunset Road, Legian.

  20. Another Mac outlet=20 (in '07 at least) is Griya Bali Computers at Istana Kuta Galeria,=20 machousebali.com.

  21. Platinum was at Jl=20 Teuku Umar #242A, 231 664,but seems to have closed in '05 although I = was told=20 that there is a stall using that name on the top floor of either = Ramayana or=20 Matahari Supermarkets in Denpasar. plmdps@indosat.net.id. = E-mail &=20 your order would have been waiting in years gone by. Generally = Rp35,000/single=20 disc program.

  22. You = can get an=20 on-line list from Helgie at www.geocities.com/mcsho= p_bali/dvd=20 . New shop now (mid '06) at the street on the side of Bubba Gumps in=20 Tuban/Kuta.

  23. Alternative is=20 Sakura who will e-mail you a current DVD stock list. E-mail is sakura_groups@yahoo.com . = Shops are=20 in Jl Kartika Plaza by the Stadium Caf=E9 and in Sakura Electronic = store on Jl=20 Diponegoro, Denpasar, opposite Ramayana Department store in the Rimo=20 Supermarket. They are mainly movie DVD's these days but still have = some=20 computer stuff.

  24. VCD=92s, Ramayana,=20 Denpasar. Rp20-25,000. 3 discs might be Rp60,000.

  25. Harry=92s Jl Teuku=20 Umar #226 773, dwiufo@indosat.net.id. = Perhaps more of=20 a computer hardware shop as there are no programs available. =

  26. Dragon Bali=20 Computers, Jl Iman Bonjol #336G seems to be gone. Hunt for cheap = software in a=20 big cardboard box no more!

  27. Rimo = Supermarket in=20 Diponegoro Street in Denpasar (just across the street from Ramayana = and turn=20 left about 100 meters) has a dedicated computer section on the 3rd = floor=20 (including hardware and parts) and a mobile phone centre or the 2nd = floor.=20 Almost every computer outlet in Bali has a booth here and you can save = a lot=20 of walking by trying here first but be advised that the organisation = of the=20 software remaining in '05 was a shambles and no one seemed to know = what was in=20 stock or care about what you wanted. If you really need it you'll find = it=20 yourself seemed to be their attitude.  Rimo Computer Centre =96 = www.computerbali.com/cart.php?fr=3Dindex.

  28. Engineering=20 software as well as the more popular types is still available at = Softcomp=20 Centre. There are two shops in Kuta =96 Jl Legion Kelod No 408C and = Poppies II.=20 Also Kuta Sidewalk Block C1, Jl Kartika Plaza, Ph (62-361) 766 104 and = Jl=20 Padma, Legian, next to Warung Yogya. E-mail softcomp_2000@yahoo.com = for list of=20 titles, including popular DVDs.

    Computer software (all pirated = of=20 course) is great buying. If the occasional program really refuses to = run you=20 will not have lost much in cash terms. Even full blown programs such = as MS=20 Office Pro are only Rp35,000/disc =96 that=92s about A$7.00 !!!
    If = you have=20 trouble at the =91enter the number=92 stage open the disc in Explorer = and then=20 open each file icon that you can see =96 the copiers often put the = number in the=20 disc rather than on a piece of paper which can get lost. Look for a = file=20 called .TXT or .INFO or =91Readme=92.
    Another thing to try is to = re-copy a=20 folder or file called =91Crack=92 if it is there. Right click and open = the folder=20 and paste the file. Go to the directory on C drive where the game is = installed=20 and paste the crack .exe file into it. If you get a message =96 = =91already exists=20 =96 replace?=92 Click =91Yes=92.
    Failing that log on to Google = (search) and try=20 "warez" and "serial numbers" for an extensive list to help you. =
    Another=20 site worth trying is http://www.gamecopyworld.com/.=
    If=20 you have Windows XP and you are having problems upgrading because of = =91an=20 incorrect serial number=92 go to www.bt= villarin.com/windows/links.htm#OffsiteGuides=20 and look for miscellaneous - tweaktown.com.win.xpsp.l for updating or = try www.tweaktown.com/document.php?dtype=3Dguide&dId=3D35= 0&dPage=3D1.=20
    Another site is http://www.megagames.com/, = select Game=20 Fixes.
    Use Explorer to open the disc contents and look amongst the = files=20 for 'sn' or 'serial number'. It will open in Notebook and you can = write down=20 the number to use when the game asks for it.
    Don=92t phone Bill = Gates at home=20 and ask for after sales service!
    In 2005 I was given the following = steps=20 to find the code numbers on discs:
    * On your computer with the disc = in the=20 CD drive click START at the bottom left of your screen -
    * click on = MY=20 COMPUTER and then the name of the disc you are trying to open, or the = CD drive=20 letter -
    * go to EXPLORE the look for the folder named CRACK and = click on=20 KEY GEN -
    * click and drag across the number to highlight it -
    * = click=20 COPY and PASTE when asked for the number during installation. =

  29. Curtains =96 "Korden Plaza" on way to = Denpasar.=20 Also Setia Kewan 95 Sulawesi St Denpasar.

  30. Curtains. King=20 Turtle Shop, Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai by Perdana Hotel near Matahari = Galeria.=20

  31. Curtains and=20 fabric. Tatang Chaeruddin, 244 040, Sanur. Will come to hotel. =

  32. Material Everest=20 has mountain of fabrics, mainly dress stuff, including wonderful = Indian=20 cottons. Opposite the petrol station near the beginning if Jl Imam = Bonjol. Not=20 too far from Bemo corner to walk and you pass the bead shop Toko = Central on=20 the way. Head left if passing Bemo corner from the Legian area, past = the big=20 BCA bank, cross over the river, past Toko Central at the left hand = sweep in=20 the road and Everest is set back off the road a bit on the left just a = bit=20 further along. For furnishing fabrics try Wiras a bit further on past=20 Everest.

  33. Bali = Oding in the=20 main street of Sanur. Jl Danau Tamblingan #60 make curtains cushions,=20 placemats, mosquito nets, bed covers and blinds to your = measurements.=20

  34. Material shops =96=20 adjacent to market in Denpasar =96 Jl Kartini, Jl Sulawesi, Jl Thamrin = (#19 =96=20 heavier fabrics) and Jl Gajahmada.

  35. Tiara Grosir -=20 HUGE - best prices. Denpasar. (Matahari charges tourist prices.) =

  36. St = Isidor fabrics=20 is at 44 Laksmana Street, Seminyak.

  37. New = supermarket=20 (in =9202) is Rimo. Was a bank and has beautiful marble on all 3 = floors. Good=20 range of different gear. Cafeteria on top.

  38. Silk. Next to car park exit of Matahari Dept store. = Chinese=20 importer. Silk seams are painted (glued) with over-boiled rice before = sewing.=20 Washes out afterwards.

  39. Duta = Silk House,=20 next to Matahari=92s. Fixed prices except for bulk purchases. =

  40. Toko = Adil on Jalan=20 Sulawesi for batik sarongs of various qualities. Fixed price but low.=20

  41. Kempiana Stores,=20 Denpasar. Very cheap prices. Patronised by locals.

  42. Leather. Rafflesia opp Isntana Gardens Rest. = Bali Bch=20 Hotel end of main street.

  43. Saga = Leather and=20 tailors. Pratama St. 89B. Ask for Terry. Ph 778 064. They will arrange = transport for you from your hotel. Only a little more expensive than = the=20 Kuta/Legian shops but very good work.

  44. Leather. Wila,=20 main St Sanur past Bali Moon & Bali Hi rests.

  45. Dijon continental=20 deli. Cheese, dips, crackers etc. Left hand side of roundabout at God = statue=20 with coiled serpent, on road from Kuta to Sanur. It=92s actually on a = little=20 slip road that parallels the roundabout, entered from off the = roundabout=20 almost opposite the Bali International Medical Centre. Well worth = hunting=20 down.

  46. The = Sanur Deli is=20 run by an Australian woman and her Balinese husband. At 67D Jl Danau = Poso,=20 Blanjong, Sanur it's worth finding for breads and rolls, sandwiches = (maybe the=20 best you'll find in Bali), gourmet goods, cakes. Ph270 544 or 288 086. = www.yamp.com/baliexpa= t/fun/deli.htm.=20

  47. There is also a=20 new ('05) deli in Hardy's Supermarket. Named The Pantry it has a great = range=20 of foodstuffs and in conveniently located.

  48. Fishing tackle. There are real bargains = to be had=20 in genuine brand name gear such as Shimano but you need to know your = home=20 prices to locate them.
    * There are four shops close the markets = and to the=20 Ramayana Department store in Denpasar. The proprietors are friendly = enough to=20 direct you to each others shop if you get to one of them. Try two very = close=20 to one another on the corner of Jl Imam Bonjol and Hasanuddin.
    * = There is=20 also some downstairs in Matahari=92s, Denpasar but this is mainly = small stuff=20 for river fishing.
    * Also Sulawesi Street and Toko Lautan Mas at = No 1 Imam=20 Bonjol at Denpasar end. Also just around the corner from here, Istana = Pancing=20 on Jl Diponegoro, No 201 Pasar Sangiah Lantai No 3. This is a Shimano=20 outlet.
    * CV Puri Pancing, Jl Diponegoro 127, Denpasar. = 'Fisherman's=20 Heaven'. Ph 224 858, e-mail puripancing_bali@yahoo.com= .
    *=20 UD. Sumber =96 Laut, Jl Sulawesi No 54, Denpasar. Ph (0361) 224 501 = Fax (0361)=20 222 671. Open 8-4 except Sunday.
    * =92Pancing=92 shop, between No = 359 and 245Jl=20 Raya Sesetan opposite Government offices (Department Pertanian). Shop = is on=20 the right coming from Benoa heading to Denpasar.
    * = 'Irianjaya'  at=20 Jaya Central Pancing has good English language skills and is very = helpful.=20 'Best range of gear in Bali'.
    Penn reels at about 60% of Aust = prices; hooks=20 size 2/0 at Rp35,000/100 box. That=92s about Aus$6. A 2 minute walk = from BIMC=20 going towards Sanur.
    * One of the best tackle shops is reputed to = be in=20 Denpasar at No1, Jl Imam Bonjol, At the intersection with Jl = Hasanudin. Run by=20 William and Susiana Ong (Ph (0361) 484 611) it's a cash only place so = you'll=20 need to have a full wallet. You'll also need to know what you're after = as=20 there is a front counter only and no shelves to browse along.
    * = reopened in=20 '09 was Aquarius Fishing Tackle Shop at Jl Bianganan No2, Kuta which = is not=20 too far from Matahari. Ph(1361) 852 8129. The stock seemed just as = extensive=20 as before.
    * In Sanur, two doors from the Massimo Restaurant = towards=20 Hardy's store and on the same side is a small but well stocked = shop.
    * If=20 you want advice about fishing trips/tours there is a pro who will give = you=20 good advice. Contact aaron_nasatir@yahoo.com. =
    * Along=20 the north coast try Made Menak (+62 081 747 238 75 if you want to go = fishing.=20 Recommended by Ibu Moire at the Pacung Indah hotel he can be found on = the=20 beach near Puri Bagus in Lovina.
    * Also Robbie, a long-haired = Dutchman from=20 Kalibukbuk (he's the Robbie who rides a motor bike not the one who = owns Spice=20 Dive). Can usually be found by asking at the Sea Breeze restaurant = near the=20 Dolphin statue or by asking at the Rambutan Cottages in Lovina. Robbie = will=20 also entertain you with details of the mysticism inherent in the = culture and=20 religion of Bali.

  49. Watch Wholesalers. =91Sylvia" Jl = Diponegoro,=20 Denpasar. About Rp30,000/watch. Go early so that if any play up you = can take=20 them back.

  50. Circle-K Mini=20 Mart. Just north of La Taverna. Circle K and Mini Marts might be a bit = more=20 expensive than the small local shop in a street near your = hotel.

  51. Hand = blended perfume (not the 5 minute street variety) in = Denpasar=20 Market. Small stall opposite material sellers in street. Small vials=20 Rp10,000/ml.

  52. Camera repairs.=20 Call =91Iwan=92, (Ivan?) Ph (0361) 486 961 or 081 2397 7974. Address = registered in=20 Bali Traveller Guide. Terminal Tegal Sari 27, Jalan Imam Bonjol, = Denpasar.=20
    There is a Nikon agent in Denpasar with the unexpected name of = Fuji Foto=20 Professional. Ph 236 829. They have a good range oof spares, some of = which=20 might be interchangeable with other makes - eg batteries, chargers, = image=20 recording cards etc.

  53. Robinsons is a new=20 department store opposite Matahari=92s in Denpasar. Similar to = Ramayana but more=20 specials (at least for the time being =96 =9202).

  54. A = fairly new shop=20 for gifts (=9204) is Ajaib on Jl Danau Posco towards the By Pass = Road.=20

  55. Also = on Jl Danau=20 Posco is a shop that sells ceremonial stuff such as offering trays. = Umbrellas=20 etc.

  56. For = ladies shoes try Sara B near the Gazebo = Hotel. For=20 a size conversion table go to www.l18nguy.com/l10n/shoe= s.html.=20

  57. For = interesting=20 market stalls and a very local atmosphere walk east from the big = Denpasar=20 markets along Jl Gajahmada (past fabric shops if you can resist them) = and turn=20 left into Jl Veteran by the roundabout and ornate mayor's office. Not = far=20 along is the Inna Bali Hotel which is the original hotel from the = Dutch era.=20 It is still nice. Go and have a look at the 'olde worlde' charms. From = here Jl=20 Veteran has all sorts of local shops with local prices on both sides = of the=20 road including electronics suppliers and great Chinese restaurants. A = bit=20 further on is a 2 level wholesale market that supplies local sellers, = a bit=20 like the fabled Sukawati markets. Next is the Bird Market if you're = into=20 birds.

  58. Tupperware is=20 unusual for Bali but you'll find a fairly new shop ('07) at Jl Teuku = Umar 165A=20 in Denpasar. Ph 8422 161 or 8513 196. A shop in the front and a = warehouse out=20 the back. Visa facilities on site. Prices about half of those on = Oz.=20

  59. For = a great=20 variety of silk fans try the factory outlet at Jl Raya Sesetan, Gg = Mepati=20 No3A. A good driver will find it easily but many will have to get = close and=20 then ask. Unique gifts any very cheap prices.

  60. INTI = Boutique,=20 silk caftans, leather and suede, snakeskin (can you bring this back = into=20 Oz?)

  61. Sayang,=20 silver.

  62. Mokea,=20 tops.

  63. Karry's=20 Collection, cottons and linen.

  64. Nuii = Collection=20 cottons , batiks for men and women.

  65. Groove, men's=20 shirts.

EATING.=20

IN AND NEAR DENPASAR.

*=20 In Denpasar there are not many eateries that attract tourist attention = but one=20 that has is Hong Kong Restoran International just over the bridge from = the=20 markets on Jl Gaja Mada, No 99. It=92s in the corner of a 3 story = building, like=20 the market building itself, on the left hand side of the road. It's a = haven in=20 the barren streets of Denpasar at the end of Jl Sulawesi, really not far = from=20 the markets. Certainly not new it has survived for over 20 years on = quality=20 Cantonese cooking. As a bonus they understand the need for quick and icy = cold=20 beer. Recommended by ex-pats.

*=20 Try Populaire in Jl Teuku Umar close to the intersection with Jl Imam = Bonjol=20 where there are traffic lights to tell you you've gone too far. The menu = has a=20 Chinese bent, the food is good and the price is very reasonable.
* = Also=20 recommended by ex-pats is Ozigo on the main Sanur road and the Bali = Bakery in=20 the back streets. Ask your driver.
* Also in Denpasar in 2003 is Sun = City in=20 the foyer of the shopping complex just off Jl Umar Teku at 208. Lots of = seafood=20 and dim sum at lunch.
* Hong Kong. The best Chinese in Bali. Genuine=20 Cantonese. Gaja Mada, Denpasar.
* At the village of Mas which is = between=20 Sanur and Ubud is the Stiff Chilli Pizzeria, set amongst the rice = fields. Mainly=20 Thai and Italian menu and with home made sausages of several varieties. = You can=20 eat formally in the dining room or at ease by the pool. An offshoot of = the=20 similarly named place at Ulu Watu.
* Fashion Lounge, Teuka Umar 58 = Denp. Ph=20 0361 261 209. Go right through the front clothing store and be amazed at = the=20 cosy, intimate restaurant with ponds, a waterfall and soft lighting. = Great=20 value; great food. Small weddings and functions catered for.
* Kak = Man, about=20 half way between Sanur & Denpasar in Jl Teuku Umar, has a genuine = Balinese=20 menu favoured by olde Bali salt, Si Badak, of Forum fame (or notoriety). =
*=20 Paseban Warung at Canggu, west of Denpasar & off the roads to Tanah = Lot.=20 Owned by Nyoman who is Grand Hyatt chef. Ayam Goreng Rp7,000, Nasi = Goreng=20 Special Rp5,000, Mie Goreng Rp5,000, Cap Cay Rp4,500 etc. =96 of course = the food=20 is superb!
* Chicken Hertz. Top floor of Ramayana. Seniors discount=20 Rp18,000, normal Rp22,000. Wide selection of excellent food. Very clean. =

*=20 Ikan Bakar does fish of course. Its on the north part of the one-way = circle in=20 Denpasar and better than Jimbaran even without the sunsets. A/C, clean = and with=20 plenty of parking space off the street.
* CupumaniK on Jl Teuku Umar, = 122B is=20 a place for serious and cheap Thai food that is delicious. Eat upstairs = for the=20 added entertainment of the moving street kaleidoscope.

 

The Sanur beach strip is very attractive at = night.=20 The area is well lit and all prices are reasonable.

  1. Kami Sama on the beach not far = from the=20 Besakih Hotel is cheap and good. Local dishes more authentic than many = places.

  2. Koki Bar & = Restaurant, =91Decent=20 steaks=92 (this comment from an American) but best is the lamb. = Rp40-50,000.=20 Austrian owners. On the By Pass road to Sanur. Above Sanur-average = prices but=20 huge servings. Well kept beer. This report was pre the 2002 departure = of=20 highly respected chef, Olaf, who now operates from the Arena Sports = Bar. ( See=20 47 below). I have no current reports.

  3. Wayang Rest., Sanur. Great = desserts from=20 bakery next door.

  4. Pantai Cemara, Sanur. =

  5. Jepune, Sanur.  Stuffed=20 chillies or pork rolls and mushroom sauce.

  6. Poco Loco=92s, = Mexican.=20

  7. Flintstones Warung, = Sanur. Opposite=20 Trophy Bar & Puri Santrian entrance.=20

  8. On the island of Nusa = Lembongan, off=20 Sanur, Caf=E9 2003.

  9. Gadang Light Caf=E9/Rest., Sanur. Run by=20 Mansu.

  10. Mango Bar, Sanur. Up the beach from the Gazebo = Hotel.=20 Dinner serves are smallish but the food is not too bad.=20

  11. Made=92s Warung, Sanur. Next door to Gazebo.=20 Breakfast.

  12. Made=92s Frangipanni. Good food and = staff.

  13. The Sanur Garden was known as Spargo Restaurant, = Jl Danau=20 Tamblingan, Sanur. A bit more up-market than most. Quality slipping? = (=9202).=20 Austrian owner. The changes made in '05 might reinstate it's = former=20 reputation. Indonesian as well as a variety of international = favourites are on=20 the menu.

  14. Kalimantan Bar & Restaurant. No.11 Jl Pantai = Sindhu.=20 (North Sanur.)

  15. Bonsai, on the beach for a great American = breakfast app=20 Rp15,000 (A$3 !) Not so good for dinners if you expect to satisfy = your=20 hunger. Yes, there are heaps of bonsai plants to inspect.

  16. The Basilico is a recent addition to the = beachfront in=20 southern Sanur. Italian of course. A little more upmarket than = many.=20

  17. Kalpatharu. Jl Tambling opposite Hotel Besakih. = Best=20 breakfast Rp9,000 all u can eat. Nice ambience. Children=92s = traditional dancing=20 on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday is good. Good idea to book, table 11 = is nice.=20 Big winner in the food stakes.

  18. Mango=92s Caf=E9 Restaurant (not on the beach). = in the main=20 street has excellent food but the serves are smallish by Bali=20 standards. Children=92s traditional dancing on Wednesdays and = Fridays.=20

  19. Mango=92s on the beach. Live music and = cocktails. Sort of=20 the nightclub of Sanur. Food passable but not great. =9203. =

  20. Le Pirate Caf=E9. =91Best meal in Bali=92. At = Segara Village.=20 Pasta with cream mushrooms and bacon!!

  21. Benno=92s Bar. Good breakfast (A$4 with. = coffee), lunch and=20 coffee. Dinners are small. Good toilets.

  22. Best breakfast at Tamarind in Sanur. Also = British Honorary=20 Consul. Full Irish breakfast best.

  23. Bobbies Restaurant on the beach at Sanur. Great=20 view.

  24. Try the bakery at the Gazebo Hotel for = pastries.=20

  25. Donalds. Main street Sanur. A$15 for 2 including = beers and=20 soft drinks. Good for breakfast. Great fried noodles.

  26. The Mezzanine, Sanur. An off-shoot of the Puri = Santrian=20 hotel has an extensive menu of dishes including traditional Balinese. = Chef has=20 overseas experience and loves to chat about her family in Australia. = Live=20 music each night. Dinner & drinks for four Rp300,000 includes = drinks and=20 taxes. Worth a taxi ride if you=92re not close enough to walk. Those = looking for=20 the full Royal Thai flavours will be a bit disappointed but still OK = and great=20 for newcomers to the cuisine.

  27. Segara Village Co-operative, Sanur. Some of the = profit=20 helps the local school. Good food and an exceptional location. Great = for=20 children who can play on the beach between courses.

  28. Lotus Pond Sanur.

  29. The Beach Restaurant for tuna steaks. =

  30. Randy=92s and Made=92s cafes on the main street = of Sanur are=20 great for casual snacks.

  31. Arry=92s (or Arri=92s) Caf=E9 No. 7 Jl Pantai = Sindhu. English=20 style menu items. One of the best in Sanur about 5 mins from the = beach. 2=20 entrees, 2 main courses, 2 large Bintangs about Rp60 =96 70,000 rather = than the=20 Rp90 =96 120,000 of the beach-side places. Tasty food and generous = servings.=20

  32. Retro Caf=E9, central Sanur. Upmarket but = reasonable prices=20 for good food. Still good in '06 and the French style menu does not = mean the=20 old favourites are not available. Try the lychee martini and pina = coladas,=20 Rp25,000.

  33. On the 'other' side of the By Pass road in Jl = Kutat=20 Lestaru, Sanur Kuah (the turn off is opposite the large Yamaha = dealership), is=20 Warung Krishna. It serves only Nasi Campur in the authentic Balinese=20 (Indonesian) spicy style at Rp10,000 with iced tea. Spotless and with = nice=20 surroundings.

  34. Batu Jumpai opposite Hardy's department store. = Good coffe=20 and great for breakfast when you want a change from your = lodgings.

  35. Benno=92s. Sanur, near the Segara Village = Bungalows.=20

  36. Bucu Warung, good, (but near McDonalds =96 = Yuk!).=20

  37. Kalemantan Restaurant, Sanur. On left of road to = Sindhu=20 Beach. Near sports restaurant.

  38. Not Sindhu Beach Caf=E9 except for Bali Crepe = =96 palm sugar=20 and coconut with ice-cream.

  39. Essence Restaurant & Bar was opposite = entrance to Puri=20 Santrian, Sanur but has now (=9204) opened at 235X Jl Petitenget in = Kerobokan.=20 Ginger Ice cream and other flavours!!! Now opening for breakfasts from = 8.00=20 am.

  40. Mamma Putu=92s on the beach near Jl Kesumasari. = (This end of=20 Sanur has the nicest beach.)

  41. Village Restaurant. At Mossemo=92s. App 50 paces = from=20 Besakih hotel on opposite side of the road. Superb Italian cuisine. = Try=20 Brochette !!!! or Spinach Ravioli in Bolognese Sauce !!! or any = pasta!!! Great=20 pizzas and berry tea too. A bit dearer than the cheaper places in Bali = but=20 worth it.

  42. Sudut Senang (=91The Cosy Corner=92) on Jl Danau = Tamblingan No=20 150, Sanur. New =9202.

  43. Caf=E9 Batu Jimbar, Sanur. Always fresh = vegetables grown by=20 the owners.

  44. The Nouveau is in south Sanur near the Sanur = Beach hotel.=20 Bistro and Wine Cellar.  Much better than the = over-rated=20 Mezzanine.

  45. Bonsai Gardens. On the beach path. breakfasts = Rp18,000.=20 Good food. Real bonsai plants for sale.

  46. Bonsai Rest., Sanur. Nice food but the serves = are a bit=20 small and 20% tax is added rather than the usual 10%.=20

  47. Bonsai Caf=E9. Best breakfasts. Nothing quite = like eating=20 with the sand between your toes. Squirrels and a lizard for=20 entertainment.

  48. Some places like the Segara Agung Restaurant and = the=20 Matahari Beach Caf=E9 are nice but read the fine print at the bottom = of the menu=20 =96 20% tax and service charges instead of the more usual 10%. =

  49. Warung Toot Sie on the beach. Run by the same = Toot Sie as=20 the famous fixed price stall in the Sindhu Beach Markets. New in 2002 = and=20 making a good name so far.

  50. Gateway of India. South of the Bali Hyatt Hotel = on Jl=20 Danau Tamblingan. (Also in Seminyak & Kuta) For lovers of Indian = foods.=20 Would not be out of place anywhere in upmarket India. This one has the = nicest=20 atmosphere but the curries are a bit =91westernised=92. The prices in = all three=20 restaurants are very moderate. The Seminyak outlet has the best = reputation but=20 Indian eaters should try them all.

  51. The Clay Pot is also Indian. Its at the southern = end of=20 Sanur near the Hyatt.

  52. Next door to the Clay Pot is the Seahorse. Same = owner but=20 chef specialises in seafood. )You guessed that I suppose.)

  53. Mira on Jl Tamblingan. Great fruit juices. = Chinese owner.=20 Chinese omelette! Mie goreng!.

  54. JJ's Bar seems to be a place to avoid. thirsty = bartenders=20 never quite empty the mixer into your glass but the questionable = patrons don't=20 seem to notice.

  55. 'Randy's Restaurant is not what it used to = be.' =20 '06.

  56. Olaf, renowned chef now works from the Arena = Sports Bar or=20 the By-Pass road near McDonalds in Sanur (the owner of Koki=92s where = he was=20 previously didn=92t know when he was on a good thing and killed the = goose that=20 regularly laid the golden eggs.

  57. Trophy Pub Rest. Sanur.

  58. Massimo's has been around for yonks and serves = Italian at=20 No206 Jl Tamblingan in Sanur.

  59. The Cosy Corner Restaurant and Bar at No150 on = Jl=20 Tamblingan has Indonesian and Dutch as well as international choices = on their=20 menu. Dutch owners. Their pies are very good. Clean with top rate = toilets. (62=20 361) 282 721.

  60. In Sanur the Cat and the Fiddle, Mings, Queen = Bali, Bali=20 Star are all recommended.

  61. Kalimantan, Kalpaturu and Speak Easy are a bit = tired and=20 not too clean ('05) and Bonsai and Bennos have got a bit over-priced = (again=20 '05)

  62. The Sanur Harum is part of the Sanur Paradise = Plaza. Dim=20 Sum 7 days a week for about Rp50,000 pp with children half price. = Great value=20 and very good food.

  63. Qui Qui, near the Mezzanine, has great food and = live music=20 regularly.

  64. Agung Pub & Restaurant, Sanur. Excellent = seafood.=20

  65. Kalimantan Rest. Somerset Maugham atmosphere. =

  66. Closed in late '05, the Jazzy Caf=E9 which used = to be the=20 Mykonos in Sanur. The kiosk at the front serves great ice-cream. On = the main=20 street, Jl Danau Tamblingan near a Circle K (those places seem very = expensive)=20 on the corner of the lane to the beach and the Bonsai Caf=E9. Live = music 5 times=20 a week (except Mon Tues).

  67. Caf=E9 Kesuma is good but off the tourist track. = Locals=20 reckon it has the best seafood. Beachfront just south of the Mecure=20 Hotel.

  68. Also good for seafood are two restaurants next = to each=20 other opposite the north end of the Hyatt Hotel. The Seahorse = Restaurant and=20 the Claypot both had the same Indian owner in '06 and the menus are = therefore=20 varied. Seafood is kept in tanks so it comes to you as fresh as it can = be.

  69. Anna's Warung on Jl Danau Tamblingan, north of = the Hyatt=20 Hotel, has a great Sunday Roast. Don't be put off by the silly old = buggers on=20 big 'bikes who haunt the place - they just know where to get a good=20 feed.

  70. Savitri Caf=E9 is an inexpensive Indian delight. = It is next=20 to the Sanur Golf Course. Caters to vegetarians.

  71. Massimo=92s, the village Italian restaurant in = Sanur is a=20 secret gem. Great food and drinks, great service, great prices =96 = A$15/head.=20 Mainly Italian with flair and superb sweets. Highly recommended by = none other=20 than Bali Eats and the staff of Bali Update!

  72. The Chick 2 Salon is run by Massimo who was the=20 manager/head chef at the restaurant of that name but has now (=9204) = opened his=20 own place. Worth a visit or two.

  73. Alise=92s Restaurant in the Tamukami Hotel, Jl = Danau=20 Tamblingan No64X. Much better than average.

  74. Try the Gazebo Piazza next to the Gazebo Hotel = in the main=20 street. Half a dozen shops, food drinks, tours, gifts etc.

  75. Stiff Chili in=20 the south end of Sanur looks just like a local eatery but the food is=20 fabulous, including wood fired pizzas and sausages Italian style. You = will=20 probably find it full of Italians.

  76. Aladin's is good=20 value. Owned by ex-pat from WA. Free ride home after your = meal.=20

  77. Cafe = Bombay is the=20 Sanur Indian place to eat. In south Sanur on Semawang Beach you'll = find the=20 genuine tandoor gives the genuine taste of this cuisine.

  78. The restaurants at the Griya Santrian Hotel (4*) = are=20 excellent in both quality and setting on the beach edge. The prices = are very=20 reasonable, a two course meal for two with drinks being about = A$20

  79. Gazebo Restaurant, Sanur. Snapper Rp13,000 with = potatoes=20 from the open fire, chilli sauce and salad. Large Bintang Rp10,000. = Fruit=20 juices.

  80. Pirates Restaurant on the beachfront boardwalk = in Sanur=20 has great pasta and live music occasionally. The setting, with the = fairy=20 lights along the walk, is nice.

  81. Warung Agung is near the roundabout in Sanur and = is worth=20 a visit.

  82. If you turn left at the roundabout and head = towards the=20 beach you=92ll find the Stiff Chilli Restaurant almost at the end. It = opened=20 with a goog reputation and it still has it (=9204).

  83. There are two Donalds Restaurants that are worth = trying=20 for nice simple food. The better one is opposite the Santrian Hotel = (and the=20 Mezzanine restaurant !!!)

  84. The Village Restaurant has an Italian flavour to = the menu.=20 On the main road towards the northern (Denpasar) end on the left. Nice = atmosphere.

  85. The Arena Sports Caf=E9 has good German food and = plenty of=20 it. Run by well respected Olaf who used to keep Koki=92s on the boil. = The bar is=20 open till late.

  86. I=92m Jazz is a live music venue where you can = listen to the=20 renown jazz and blues guitar of Ireng Maulana and others. The food is = still=20 good and the drinks generously sized. Where Mykonos once stood at = number 27 on=20 Jl Danau Tamblingan in Sanur. Reservations Ph 835 5005.

  87. The Idek Maureng Jazzy Bar and Restaurant (not = the same as=20 the Jazz Bar which is a bit expensive, plastic and sterile) is near = the Gazebo=20 in the lane that goes to the beach by the Bonsai Cafe. Good food and = live=20 music.

  88. In = Sanur try=20 Randi=92s on Jl Danau Tamblingan for breakfast or Bonzaion on the = beach for a=20 busy dinner.

  89. Aladin=92s Caf=E9, also=20 on Jl Tamblingan has great nasi goreng and Ayam Goreng. =

  90. Corridor, Jl Hang Tuah 33A

  91. Warung Rib -=20 "Fabulous".

  92. La Barracca, with an Italian = leaning.=20

  93. Ming leans towards French despite the=20 name.

  94. Kalpatharu is = great to walk=20 past. Don't try the plastic food.

  95. The Clay Oven is Indian as you might = correctly=20 guess

  96. Double Dutch has a = nice=20 atmosphere and staff with great customer skills.

  97. Lumut = has a nice=20 back area where the ambience is as good as the food. =

  98. The Spirit Cafe on the beach is great for a = Sunday=20 lunch while the world goes by and has perhaps the best western style = bacon in=20 Bali..

  99. The Rib Restaurant is new (Jan '08) and is = making an=20 early impression - 'the best food in Sanur' according to one = traveller. It's=20 opposite the Village.

  100. Cafe Lotus - = should wither=20 away according to some reports mid '08.

DRINKING.

  1. Made's Pub, Sanur. =

  2. Bar Apa Kabar, Sanur. Mango Bar = and Bonsai=20 Bar, on the beach.

  3. The Gazebo for cocktails.=20

  4. The Bar is a new cocktail bar near = Jazzy=20 Caf=E9 and the Circle K. Small but stylish.

  5. Lava = Lounge.=20 Upmarket and trendy style decor. Aussie owned. =

  6. Cat = and Fiddle=20 at the bottom end of Sanur is owned by the British Consul. Best = Tuesday,=20 Thursday and Sunday nights.

  7. The = Bar. Nice=20 decor, good music and reasonable prices.

  8. Legian/Seminyak=20 has its Sammi and Suzzi's "bar" under a red umbrella by the lifeguard = tower=20 (see the 'DRINKING' section in TUBAN&KUTA notes above) but in '07 = Sanur=20 lovers establishes their own "S & S & S" , which is really = Nyoman's=20 Bar right down at the south end of Sanur, a bit further south than the = Hotel=20 Sanur Beach, Mercure Resort and Puri Santrian. There's a good car park = right=20 there and a warung for a snack. What is unique about this place is = that you=20 can see the sun set over Jimbaran Bay and , if you stay long enough, = you can=20 see it rise over Lombok. I don't know if anyone's actually done the 12 = hour=20 stint and been well enough to recognise the sun when it comes up = though. IN=20 MID '08 IT WAS FOUND THAT THE ACCOUNTING PRACTICES OF THE OWNER LEFT = TOO MUCH=20 TO BE DESIRED AND "S & S & S" IS NOT NOW RECOMMENDED.=20

VISITING.

  1. Sulawesi St., Sanur =

  2. Kombasari=20 Markets, Sanur.

  3. Bird Market, Sanur. =

  4. Batu Karu temple. =

  5. Moon Temple =96 Hugh, ancient cast = bronze=20 metal drum.

  6. Gunung Kawi temple. 2 km walk but = great=20 views and carvings on hillside.

  7. Tirta Empul temple. Water temple = fed by=20 springs.

  8. Agricultural centre near Tirta = Empul. Find=20 out about Bali=92s fruits.

  9. The Museum in Denpasar. It=92s not = world=20 class but interesting if you have a bent towards local history and = culture.=20

  10. A better museum is the Mega = Gallery of Art=20 in Tophati, on the road to Celuk from Sanur. Less than 200 paces from = the=20 roundabout. Large Dutch style, white building. Has a great jewellery = display.=20 Jl Gianyar, km 5.7, Tophati, Denpasar. Cold drinks available. Lots of = room and=20 no crowding.

  11. Sarangan Island (the infamous = Turtle=20 Island) just off the coast south of Sanur has a unique and spectacular = white=20 coral temple, Pura Sakenan. Be prepared to rush through the sellers = who will=20 crowd you when the boat arrives. There are still =91jukungs=92 with = multi coloured=20 sails working from the quiet island. The turtle breeding compounds are = interesting but depressing.

  12. There is a new monument to the = struggle of=20 the Balinese for independence since 1945. More of a museum of history = than a=20 monument it is in the Niti Mandala Park, Denpasar.

  13. East and north from Ubud will take = you=20 towards Tampaksiring, about a third of the way to Mount Batur. Along = this road=20 you will pass through many little craft villages. Get your driver to = drop you=20 at the top of the rise at a place like Tagalalang and follow you down = hill as=20 you browse the fascinating shops.

  14. The Bali Orchid Garden is on the = main road=20 going from Sanur to Kusamba, Padang Bai, Candi Dasa and Amed, only a = little=20 way out of Sanur. There are many varieties if orchids,=20 heliconia and frangipanni as well as Fungii. All are carefully = displayed and=20 labelled. Guides will show you around and explain the workings to you. = Admission and guides are free. Bali Orchid Garden, Jl Bypass = Tophati-Kusamba,=20 Bali. Phone 466 010. Web page is http://www.baliorchidgarden.com= / .=20

  15. The Royal Bali=20 Orchid Gardens have a great reputation and are particularly tourist = friendly.=20 Perhaps the cheapest place for flowers and bottled plants to take = home. Its on=20 the By-Pass road from Sanur in Ubung on the main road that goes out to = Tanah=20 Lot and Tabanan from Sanur. just on a little side road on the right = coming=20 from Sanur. You can see it from the By Pass. Many outlets in Indonesia = purchase from Royal who have the largest laboratories for cloning = orchids (or=20 Anggrek in the local language) in East Java.

DOING.   

  1. Money changing at the Internet Cafe next to the Laser = Sports Bar=20 is reliable.

  2. The = nightlife=20 is not really swinging but Gasoline Alley, opposite the entrance to = the=20 Besakih Hotel is about as good as it gets.

  3. Chic @ Sanur. Aromatherapy. Main = street=20 opp. Besakih. Spa and manicure =96 fabulous.

  4. Try the Natural Spa on the main = street of=20 Sanur. Take care not to walk into the tree branch that hangs across = the=20 footpath at the front. Offering 50% off in July =9203. Don=92t take = the 30%=20 discount vouchers that you can buy on the street. $48 for the works.=20

  5. Sulawesi Street gold sellers.=20

  6. Kombasari=20 Markets. The main markets.

  7. The Satria markets are not far = from the=20 main Denpasar markets and sell pets to the locals. Great way to see = some of=20 the wild life up close.

  8. Bird market.

  9. Kite flying.

  10. There are blind=20 massage men working in Sanur (ask at your hotel desk) and also highly=20 recommended are the Merciful Mothers In Touch on Jl Pantai Sindhu. = Dayu is=20 strong and Rini has magical hands. 1 hour Bali massage with reiki = Rp60,000.=20 ('07).

  11. Visit the water rice historical = museum at=20 Tabanan, the Subak Museum. A real eye opener.

  12. Lots of water sports at the beach = when the=20 tide is in. Parasailing, Banana Boats etc.

  13. Ride a green bemo mini van local=20 transport. Rp1,000 each to ride around the streets. Simple sightseeing = and=20 fun.

  14. Hello Internet Caf=E9, top floor = of Ramayana=20 Department Store.

  15. Early morning bicycle tours from = Sanur=20 Beach Hotel. A$15 great value. 3.5 hours. Easy and safe as you go = early in the=20 morning when tourist activity is at a minimum. Watch out for holes in = the=20 road.
    Tours also go from the Raddison Hotel. Ask for Putu Budi on = (62 361)=20 288 833. Putu has excellent English skills so you will easily = understand the=20 wealth of information she is able to pass on. The tour is through the = original=20 village of Sanur with several stops and even a complimentary water = bottle just=20 when you think you might need it. You=92ll see the Banyan tree at the = cemetery=20 where the spirits live, the temple, local markets and rice fields in = all stage=20 of growth.

  16. * Big = Game=20 Fishing. When fishing you have to be fishing where the fish are = and when=20 they want to feed - Bali is no different. Sometimes the local lads are = better=20 than the pro's. In Lovina (where the fishing is still good and more = reliable)=20 if you're nice to the locals you might be able to go out with them at = night.=20 Sometimes the cost for a large boat at about $250 and hour, with very = ordinary=20 gear, is just not worth it. Locals in a jukung, at less than half that = with=20 ordinary gear, chucking lures into schools on the feed might be a = better way=20 to go.
    * "Atlantis", Jalan Tamblingan #188 Sanur between Sanur = Beach Hotel=20 & Puri Santrian. Very professional, British organisation. Keith. = Ph/fax=20 283 676. atlantiskb@hotmail.com=20 US$120 for 6 hours. Discount for 4+.
    * See also http://www.baliwaves.com/ which = looks=20 like a surfing site (which it is) but there are also fishing charters = from=20 Tuban. 14 years experience ('07). E-mail slim@baliwaves.com. Aus$130 for = 1 or 2=20 people, trolling, reef or bottom bouncing, everything included = and a=20 BBQ after if requested. Phone Slim +6281 2398 2325.
    * http://www.enafishing.com/
    * = Pancing=20 Fishing is at the start of the By Pass road. Run by Irianjaya = Taragin.
    *=20 wwwbali-tours.com/tour/fishing-e.html
    *=20 www.romaexport.com/budahbeach/frame.htm
    * See also =     Game fishing =96=20 http://www.bali-fishing.com/. = Rates=20 are given on this site.
    * http://www.balicruises.com/ = is another=20 site to check. It has its own links to boat charters and fishing = trips.
    *=20 Aaron Nasatir has been a pro charter operator in the US of A and now = works in=20 Bali. E-mail aaron_nasatir@yahoo.com = for=20 information.
    * Bluewater Safaris is at http://www.bwsbali.com/ = .    =20

  17. The largest cloners of = orchids in=20 Indonesia is Royal Orchids who have their laboratories in East Java = but have=20 an outlet in the village of Ubung on the By-pass road from Sanur going = towards=20 Tanah Lot and Tabanan. They are very tourist friendly for flowers and = plants=20 in bottles that you can take home.

  18. Bali Orchid Gardens. (Bali Taman = Anggrek.)=20 Open daily 9 =96 6 pm. Just north of Sanur on the Jl By Pass in = Tophati village,=20 Kusamba 1/9X, Bali. Ph 62 361 466 010. http://www.ind= o.com/services/baliorchidgarden.htm  =20 Guides are available to show you through the gardens and explain the = daily=20 workings. From memory I think that there are over 5000 different = varieties of=20 orchids, heliconicas and fungi.

  19. On the way to Kintamani stop at = the Buana=20 Mertha Tourism and Spice Centre in Bangli. Spices, teas, coffees, = traditional=20 medicines.

  20. Give Harmony Spa in Sanur a miss,=20 particularly if you=92re after a wax. OUCH !!!

  21. Legong and Frog dances at the = Swastika=20 Restaurant.

  22. Have a hair cr=E8me bath at Yopie = Salon on=20 the top floor of Ramayana. Rp13,000. A scalp, neck and shoulder = massage is=20 included. Wonderful relaxation before starting shopping again. Cut and = blow=20 dry Rp25,000 and as good as home.

  23. Go for a sail=20 in a real sailing jukung. Find Rony, number 82, on the beach near the = Besaki=20 Hotel.

  24. Walk up the=20 beach to where the black volcanic sand begins. It's a fair hike but=20 intersting.

DRIVERS.

  1. Ida Bagus Ketut Suartana = =91Suarta?=92 (=91Gustut=92), in front of Baruna Beach Inn, = Sanur.=20

  2. Made Wirya Adnyana. Home phone = (361) 429=20 435, Mob 0818 343 093. Familiar with local orphanages. Reliable.=20

  3. Gede Ariana. Has a Mitsubishi Colt = 7=20 seater with A/C. Much better than trying to squeeze 4 or more into the = usual=20 Kijang when it=92s hot and sticky. Good English. Fully = insured with=20 Tourist Authority credentials that leads to a drive with fewer hassles = with=20 police and some protection in case of a mishap on the = road. Usually found=20 outside Baruna Hotel, Sanur, or Ph 361 29 9411 (home), 361 28 9291 = (Fax), 8123=20 955 640 (mobile), E-mail ariana_01@telkom.net.=20

  4. Scooby Doo -=20 Nyoman - at +628 124 669 166 is honest and reliable with a comfortable = A/C=20 van. Recommended by local ex-pats.

PEOPLE.

Warsi=20 (Pron. =91Varsi=92), Satriavi Tours, Sanur.

ACCOMMODATION. = (Standard). =20

One of the very = few hotel=20 actually in Denpasar is the Inna Bali, the original, very first Dutch = hotel in=20 Bali and still with a sort of gracious, relaxed colonial feel. Large = rooms by=20 current standards. It is on Jl Veteran with a reasonable dining room = (But=20 several good Chinese restaurants within very easy walking distance), = close to=20 markets. Book direct with the hotel for best rates. Have a look next = time you're=20 going down Jl Veteran.

  1. Besakih Hotel, Sanur. Clean. A/C. = Central.=20 Cheap-good value. On the beach which is good for children swimming. = There is=20 an =91authorised=92 money changer just outside the hotel, on the main = road, who is=20 reported to be honest. Best beach in Sanur but still not Bondi! = Property runs=20 through to main street. Good choice of shopping and restaurants/cafes = very=20 close. Bemo rides from one end of Sanur to the other are Rp1,000. 2 = storey=20 rooms and bungalows. Bungalows best. 215 closest to the beach. Other = good ones=20 are 219, 220, 221,222,227 also 223,224,225,226. 2 pools and swim-up = bar at the=20 hotel. Kumi Sama caf=E9 just down the beach towards the markets is = cheap and=20 great food.

  2. Bumi = Ayu Hotel=20 Sanur. Ph 829 101, fax +62 361 287 517. Jl = Bumi Ayu,=20 SANUR, Bali. PO Box 511 Denpasar 80001. Balinese owned & operated. = Large=20 rooms. Very clean and good value. Good restaurant food at street = prices,=20 no-cost room service. Well kept gardens. Friendly & helpful staff. = Good=20 packages available. Freight office next to hotel. =91The Sri Ratu of = the east=20 coast!=92 http://www-baliku.trip= od.com/bumiayu.html=20 . Renovated in '07. Six new superior rooms, internal plastering and = painting=20 to lighten things up with the removal of the old woven=20 bamboo.

  3. Around the=20 corner from Bumi Ayu is the Bumas Hotel, similarly priced but = preferred by=20 some travellers. Large, clean and comfortable rooms, nice breakfast = and two=20 pools.

  4. Tabanan (north west of Denpasar) = Yeh Panas=20 Hotel. Great views of rice paddies. Hot springs

  5. Grand Bali Beach. The original = Bali hotel,=20 it even has opening windows in the tower rooms 6 floors up. Higher = than any=20 others. Burnt and re-built. Tower wing a bit tired now but attention = to=20 cleanliness is fastidious. Garden rooms great. Refurbished Garden = Cottages=20 fabulous, other Cottages are not. The reception staff are not friendly = but the=20 rest of the staff almost makes up for them. Pool lounges are notorious = for=20 being in totally short supply. Ground surfaces outside the buildings = are very=20 un-even. Drink prices are sky high.

  6. Hotel Sanur Beach. Once quite a = reliable=20 resort hotel but it has suffered the ravages of time. The quality is = below the=20 asking price in all respects.

  7. Sanur Paradise Plaza Suites. Now = owned by=20 the Dynasty Group.  Try the Dim Sum free-flow lunch at Sanur = Harum while=20 you=92re there. 7 days a week for Rp50,000 pp. Not right on the beach = which is=20 really only a short walk at the end of the street. Excellent value.=20

  8. The Sanur Paradise Plaza (don=92t = confuse it=20 with the Suites). Two bedroom apartments available.

  9. Swastika Bungalows. Room 81. The = swastika=20 symbol is recognised by most Europeans as a Nazi emblem but in fact = that is a=20 corruption of the original Hindu symbol signifying peace and beauty. = The=20 bungalows really reflect that. The pool is great with two pool bars. = Friendly=20 staff throughout. US$31/night A/C with fridge and breakfast. Great = feeling=20 about the place.

  10. Gazebo Hotel. . Good food. Live = music with=20 dinner. No TV but free movie every pm. 4-5 pm free coffee and tea in = the front=20 bakery. 2 pools plus a kiddies splasher (but poor pool towels). Beach = not good=20 on this section. Two storey suites, b/room upstairs. Outdoor bathrooms = great.=20 Try the Managers Bike Ride Tues or Sat. 6.30 am start. Very = interesting local=20 tour of markets, rice fields, back streets, beach, lots of local = flavour, app=20 10 km. Poor report in late 2007. Change of management - cost saving - = results=20 not good.

  11. Puri Santrian Hotel is 5* at = reasonable 3*=20 rates. Refurbished in =9202. www.santrian.com/ .Low rise with = less than=20 200 rooms, 3 pools and a nice beach.

  12. Peneenda=20 Beach View Hotel. A quiet place with a colonial atmosphere in the = sedate=20 southern end of Sanur next to the Bali Hyatt. Balinese style = bungalows.=20 Nice seafront lounge and restaurant. Family unit (2 connecting rooms), = 4=20 people, ensuite, terrace, A/C, T/V, breakfast =96=20 US$60/night. Highly recommended in mid '07 = following=20 renovations.

  13. Griya Santrian, (4*), in central = Sanur.=20 Garden View rooms nice but the Superior Beach-Wing rooms are super = large. Huge=20 bed and 3-piece lounge, satellite TV. Nice pool but there is a habit = of=20 =91reserving=92 sun lounges by putting towels on them early in the = morning but not=20 using them until much later. Within walking distance of the Sindhu = Beach=20 markets. Good food at the two beach front restaurants. Great Caf=E9 = latte.=20

  14. Avoid the Parigata Villas in = Sanur.=20 =91VILE=92. The Parigata Resort which is nearby seems not associated = with the=20 Villas and might be OK.

  15. The Sativa is in southern Sanur, = back a=20 bit from the beach between the Hyatt and the Puri Santrian. Small, ten = two-storey traditional huts around a nice pool. Good buffet breakfast. = Large=20 airy rooms, fridge and good shower.

  16. The Mercure in=20 Sanur seems to have lost its popularity. The pools and surrounds are = badly in=20 need of renovation which most of the hotel has had. The pool has dark = tiles=20 which are exposed and the water gets too warm to be refreshing. =

  17. Sanur Beach=20 Villas.  http://www.sanurbeachvillas.com= /.=20 Run by 'BloodyRon'. Pool. Villas are comfortable and have nice = verandas,=20 outdoor shower in large bathroom. Peaceful.

  18. Avoid the=20 Tamukami Hotel if you have children is the report from one guest in = '07 who=20 cut a 30 day stay to one night despite being told it was a family = friendly=20 hotel when booking. Evidently run by an avowed female child hater who = will=20 make your stay hell. I suppose this could make it an ideal place for = those of=20 similar views.

  19. The Bumas Hotel=20 is not far from the Tamakumi mentioned above and really is child=20 friendly.

  20. Pondok Ayu is=20 in a quiet area of Sanur about a 15 minute walk to the beach and = Benno's=20 Restaurant who's Australian owners also own the Pondok. The large = rooms are=20 well appointed and clean with a nice pool available as also is a = shuttle=20 service to wherever you want to go locally. US$45 per night, breakfast = included.

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Cheap)

  1. Hotel=20 Sinar Bali, Jl Padma Utara.

  2. Puri=20 Dalem Hotel. 5 min walk to beach. Very friendly.

  3. Trophy=20 Ayu Bungalows. Rp150,000 for A/C room with = breakfast.

  4. Bali=20 Holiday Resort. Facilities just passable but great food. A bit out of = the way=20 even with the free Kuta shuttle.

  5. Avoid=20 Puri Mango Guesthouse.

  6. Gazebo=20 Cottages. Rp3000,000 / room for 3.

  7. Ailit=92s=20 Beach Bungalows in Sanur cater for single travellers. =

  8. Werdapura on Jl=20 Tambligan at No50 between the Laghawa and Shanti Hotels on the = beachfront.=20 Aus$22 for a bungalow with breakfast and tax included. Cheap beach = bar.=20 Discounts for a month and for seniors.

  9. Ari Putri=20 almost opposite the entry to the Sanur Beach Resort. Nice pool. Small=20 restaurant at the front.

ACCOMMODATION. (Not=20 Cheap)

  1. Le=20 Meridien - near Tanah Lot temple. Secluded =96 isolated, about half an = hour by=20 road from Seminyak =96 self contained =96 superior in all respects. If = you're=20 really good at playing all of the available cards, and one agent off = against=20 another, as one couple were in early '06, you might get accommodation = for only=20 US$175/night !!! 5 pools. Access to the temple of Tanah Lot at low = tide. Visit=20 Batukaru Temple ('The Silent Garden Temple') up in the mountains above = Tabanan=20 while you're there. Eat at the Beach House at Canggu just down the = coast one=20 night.

#5A. NUSA=20 LEMBONGAN ISLAND - OFF SANUR.=20

Website to=20 visit is http://www.lembongan-discove= ry.com/

Seaweed=20 farming in the coastal shallows is one of the main industries on = Lembongan.=20 There are not many others. The water is very clear for scuba diving and=20 snorkelling, better than along the Bali coast =96 best off Nusa Penida, = the=20 smaller island almost joined to Lembongan, but beware of the danger of = fast=20 currents and eddies when the tide is moving. Cross over the bridge.=20

Mushroom=20 Bay is a bit up-market, small Bintangs are Rp15,000 each and you=92re = supposed to=20 return the bottles, or else Rp5,000 for those missing! =96 Jungubatu is = more about=20 the village way of life =96 Chelegem Bay is great for quieter swimming = and=20 snorkelling. Along Jungbatu Bay = the=20 accommodations are generally on the cheap side and generally also very=20 negotiable. At the far end of the bay are VERY cheap bungalows (part of = a=20 package deal from Australia in mid =9205) which will disappoint most = travellers.=20 These places are very small and although advertised with private boat = transfers,=20 TV, Fridge and A/C what is not advertised is that you will be picked up = from the=20 beach by a fishing boat and that the electrical facilities will only = work when=20 the island=92s generator is running during the day. The property has no = generator=20 of its own like most of the others. The limited =91restaurant=92 menu = costs US$25=20 per head. At Ketut=92s place nearby the charge of Rp250,000, easily = negotiable=20 down to Rp150,000, is much better value for nicer = accommodation.

Don=92t go=20 for the shopping =96 it=92s virtually non-existent. There are not a lot = of places to=20 eat outside of the hotels/bungalows and the prices are a bit steep in = comparison=20 with Bali although the food is generally quite good.
**  In late = 2007 a=20 breeding colony of the Bali Starling (one of the world's rarest = birds),=20 about a hundred, was released on Nusa Penida into a bird sanctuary. It = is now=20 not necessary to tramp through the West Bali National Park in the hope = of seeing=20 this rarity.

The=20 following information from Freogirl is current at the beginning of = September=20 =9203.

(1)Take Perama shuttle and book in = advance=20 (especially for the amount of people you are talking about - when I was = there in=20 late June they were using quite a small boat as the bigger one was being = repaired). www.hallofreun.de/perama-= e.html.=20
(2)You may not find accommodation for that many people at one place. = But=20 then again you may. Lots of the places on Jungubatu are simply 'turn up = and see=20 what's available on the day" - that said, there are a number of choices, = so you=20 might find a couple of places next to each other that can help you. Be = flexible=20 and leave a few with the luggage while a few go searching. (By the way - = there=20 will be touts who try to get you to 'their' bungalows - you can ignore = them or=20 not, it's up to you)
(3)Surf breaks are close to shore - some easy = enough to=20 get to by walking then swimming, others you can get a local to take you = out in a=20 boat. Ditto for snorkelling - the best is at Nusa Penida which requires = a boat=20 trip (we did 5 of us at 35,000rp each ($7) for half a day - v. good=20 value)
(4)I stayed at No. 1 - and left because a rat was eating my = soap and=20 earplugs - but there are rats everywhere, even in the nicer places.=20 The trick with the rats is NOT to leave your soap = out of=20 its dish - they are hungry and will eat anything! (The earplug was a = real=20 surprise!) Basically, don't have edible stuff in your room and they will = probably stay away. No. 1 had a great location. Puri = Nusa was=20 newer but I didn't stay there. Think it cost about the = same.
(5)Bridge to=20 Ceningen isn't that far from Jungubatu - maybe 15 minutes on motorbike = or a bit=20 longer on pushbike. It took me about 2 hours to ride round island on = pushbike=20 with a boat ride through the mangroves thrown in the = middle.
(6)Mushroom Bay=20 is the furthest bay from Jungubatu and has the ritziest resorts. You can = walk=20 there from Jungubatu round the coast. I thought it was a bit soul less = and=20 uninteresting.
Tamarind Cottages are actually in Chelegembai, which = is the=20 second bay around the coast from Jungubatu. They are 3 or 4 fairly new = cottages=20 at the far end of Chelegembai - a bit out in the open I thought, but = looked nice=20 inside. Devils Tear is close to the Ceningen side of the island - quite = a=20 spectacular blowhole thing, and close to Dream Beach, which is a nice = sandy=20 beach that boasts an excellent sunset viewing restaurant now. I walked = to all=20 these places from Chelegembai, but if you're not into walking a local = will give=20 you a lift on a motorbike (or hire you one) for a price.
(7) A good = map of=20 Lembongan is hard to find, even those you get on the island miss things = out.=20 (A = reasonable map is=20 available at www.balihai= cruises.com/Lembongan-map-big.html=20 )

I paid 70,000rp per night at = =91No. 1=92, which=20 included breakfast, but others beat them down further (I think $15 a = night is=20 pretty good in anyone's language!) and I think it was similar at other = places on=20 the beach. Nothing was full in late June, can't see that it will be all = that=20 different now. The touts get a cut if they install you, so you will = probably=20 negotiate a better price without them.

I ate at =91No. 1=92, and at a = number of other=20 restaurants and bungalows around - the staple is sublimely fresh fish = (mostly=20 tuna and mackerel) with salad or chips and veg. Ketut's Warung, behind = the=20 Mainski Inn, was good value and just had a couple of 'dishes of the = day'. Ketut=20 is a delight and will cook according to your tastes. Villa Wayan in = Chelegembai=20 had a superb menu at reasonable prices - a little more upmarket but not=20 expensive.

If I was going again I'd still = stay on=20 Jungubatu, but would have a good wander before I settled on something - = when=20 you're on your own you often get lazy and take the first or second thing = you=20 find. Have to say I got a fantastic deal at Villa Wayan for the last few = days,=20 150,000 Rp for beautiful cottage and breakfast - its well worth it as = it's a=20 gorgeous setting, great swimming, and you can swim out to great = snorkelling too.=20

But the real budget stuff is in = Jungubatu -=20 perhaps a little more at the Nusa Penida end of the beach. =

Hi=20 - I think there are a few stories going around about Villa Wayan and I'm = not=20 sure which is true. I know they were looking at selling part of it when = I was=20 there but had no buyer as such at that time. It wasn't being renovated = in June.=20 There are 2 types of rooms -I stayed in a separate bungalow behind the = main=20 area, and then there are two places with groups of rooms - but those = rooms all=20 have their own ensuite, just communal relaxing areas. It's quite=20 gorgeous.
And sorry - no direct email that I'm aware of - you can = book=20 through somewhere in Kuta, but I just walked up one morning and fell in = love=20 with the place. However, one of the managers is Ketut and here is is = email=20 address (he doesn't check it every day though!) its purniasa@yahoo.com = .


The = Nusa=20 Lembongan Express Service, Ph 287-431 departs daily from Sanur. Hotel = transfers=20 included at US$18 each return. 40 minutes each way. (?) This is the only = service=20 to return same day. Goes to Chelegimbai. Day trips are not very flexible = if you=20 want to do your own thing. Discuss when booking. The on-shore Day Trip=20 facilities (if you can get off the boat) are good but the staff = reticent. Not=20 good snorkelling. Boring for children on board. Take precautions if = you=92re prone=20 to seasickness.

Perama=92s=20 shuttle leaves from Sanur harbour (not Benoa Harbour) at 10.30 am and is = Rp70,000 one way ('06). A 10% discount applies to a return one-way fare = but not=20 to return fares!? It lands at Jungubatu Beach where there are a number = of budget=20 accommodation options available.
(If you want to go to a different = bay you=20 can get a boat from here. A boat also leaves from Nusa Lembongan at 8.30 = am.)=20
The trip takes one and a half hours in reasonable weather. The = Perama office=20 on Lembongan is in Madara Beach Bungalows. The Bali office is at 39 = Legian=20 street in Kuta, Ph (0361) 751 875 or 751 551 but you really don't need = to book.=20
Perama timetables at www.hallofreun.de/perama-= e.html.=20 or http://www.peramatour.co/.=20

The Pondok=20 Baruna has sea view bungalows at Jungbatu Beach with two double beds for = Rp70,000.

Bali Hai=20 Cruises also do the Island run with a luxury catamaran. 2 1/2 hours or = A$10=20 extra to travel on the Ocean Raft which is VERY quick =96 40 min. The = village tour=20 on the island is not great =96 seems to be mainly a way of isolating you = with the=20 local sellers. Almost everything is included in the tour price including = transfers to/from your hotel, with snorkelling and Banana Boat rides, = glass=20 bottom boat, buffet meal. Kids welcomed. US$39 pp.

Sail=20 Sensations runs a huge catamaran across to the island. Can be used for = day=20 trips.

'Scoot' boats=20 take 30-45 minutes to make the crossing. They leave at about 10 am and 4 = pm and=20 the return leaves the island at 3 and 5 pm.

Small=20 public boats are quite dangerous. They depart from Sanur Beach near = Grand Bali=20 Beach hotel daily at 7am. to 8.30. Takes 2 hrs. Own transport required = to=20 departure point. No bookings required. Rp40,000 each, one way. Land at = Jungu=20 Batu Beach, which is not the nicest area. The ticket office, Ph287 431, = is near=20 the Ananda Hotel. If you=92re determined, try to sit near the front = where the few=20 lifejackets are stored under the foredeck. The boats return about 3 or 4 = pm.=20

After the=20 bombings in Kuta there are many vacancies available on the island. It is = better=20 (financially) to go and look at what=92s available rather than book = ahead. Savings=20 of up to 50% are possible. Don=92t take too much notice of the touts who = meet the=20 boats.

Push bikes or=20 motor bikes can be hired on the island. Scooters are about Rp50,000 for = 2 hours=20 or Rp100,000 for all day.

No 1=20 Bungalows are on the beachfront. Rp70,000 including breakfast. 2 double = beds,=20 fan, bathroom, big veranda. Three good surf breaks within swimming = distance of=20 the bungalows.

Puri Nusa,=20 Jungbatu Bai, Rp100,000/night for extended stay, family accommodation = =96 2 adults=20 + 3 children. Rp150,000 for 1 night only.

You can=20 stay overnight (or two) at a budget place such as the Mainski,=20 Rp50,000/night.

It is easy=20 to hire small motorbikes on the island and use them to tour around the = coastal=20 road and through the small villages of Desa Lembongan and Jungut Batu. = The trip=20 takes about an hour non-stop. A small bridge will take you to the = smallest=20 island, Nusa Ceningan, where you can see the caves in the ocean cliffs = that=20 yield swallows nests, a food delicacy.  =

The island=20 next to Lembongan is Nusa Ceningan. You can hire bikes to get there from = Lembongan. The suspension bridge across is an experience worth having = and gives=20 a good view of the seaweed farms. A visit to the school here will be = welcomed,=20 particularly if you come bearing school gifts.
The largest and most = distant=20 of this island group is Penida. It has every thing to extremes =96 = secluded,=20 dazzling sand beaches =96 wild cliffs facing the thunderous ocean =96 = absolute=20 wilderness =96 caves =96 quiet snorkelling =96 = isolation.

The island is a = producer of=20 seaweeds.

Visit Crystal Bay = on the=20 western coast of Nusa Penida.

Good=20 snorkelling. Glass bottom boats. Interesting hand dug, extensive = underground=20 cave.

If = you are into=20 diving there are some excellent spots around the island with corals, = fish, caves=20 etc. Beware of strong rips (easily up to 7 knots, strong enough to tear = your=20 mask off if you turn your head sideways) and eddies as the tide begins = to move.=20 There are also strong up-wellings and sinking currents 20 degrees colder = than=20 the surrounding water along some of the walls when the tide is moving. = Also=20 beware of dangerously brief pre-dive briefings which do not always = adequately=20 cover the dive site or the dangers. Be ready for delayed pick-ups from = casual or=20 inexperienced boatmen on drift dives.

Contact:=20 simon@dps.centrin.net.id . Simon aka =91Zontius=92 is a White Knight of = Bali, active=20 in all sorts of aid ventures. Donations are always welcome for any of = his causes=20 and the full dollar always gets to its intended destination. =

  1. Eat and=20 stay at Coconut Beach Resort =96 excellent hamburgers. Cheap and with = en-suite=20 bathrooms, not communal ones. Beautiful views; infinity = pool.=20

  2. Villa Wayan at Chelegem Bai is US$30 for room, = US$40/night=20 for 2 including. breakfast. Was 4th best small hotel / restaurant in = Bali=20 2001. Lots of steps to go up and down here. Private beach. Ketut is = the=20 ambassador for the island and guide to guests =96 friendly, helpful = and very=20 proud of the island. Different styles of accommodation. The Coral = House is on=20 the sea front, the Manor House further back (Manor House is unusual. = Only 5=20 couples max. Private quarters open to outside. Large open living area=20 encourages social interaction) and Villa Wayan up on the cliff. No = A/C. Great=20 views. Good snorkelling off the beach. Trips to Crystal Bay (Bai) are = easy to=20 arrange. Restaurant food is good.

  3. Chelegimbai Manor House has 7 double bedrooms / = can be=20 rented privately at US 285 a night or US 39 for room. Huge living = areas and=20 lookout tower.

  4. Kokopalms Hideaway is in Chelegimbai and is US = 18 a room=20 inc breakfast.
    (Note: above 3 hotels are a group and won best = operated=20 business in all Asean countries in April this year, and are all set in = a=20 private beach.

  5. =91Ketut Bungalows=92 next to Mainski Inn, = Rp60,000/night for=20 newer rooms =96 Clean but no soap or toilet paper (Oct 2000). Jungut = Batu Beach.=20 Mainski Inn is not a great place to stay unless you=92re into a lot of = noise but=20 the food is good downstairs.

  6. Also Pondok Baruna Rp50,000/night. Peaceful.=20

  7. Kokopalms. Approx A$50/night (US$22) including. = Breakfast.=20

  8. Coconuts Beach Resort. Lots of climbing up and = down to=20 parts of resort. Similar to Villa Wayan but a bit more upmarket. Views = of Mt=20 Agung across the straits. Good pool. sales@bali-activities.com =20 http://www.bali-activities.com/<= /A> .=20 New management =9203. Renovations being undertaken. 2001 prices US$47 = for fan=20 cooled double room/night plus $10 per extra person. Nice =96 you can = roll up the=20 blinds during the day. A/C rooms US$67. Fridges only in A/C=20 rooms.

  9. Hi Tide Huts. Nice setting on the edge of and = overlooking=20 the beach. Easy to get to resort. Two levels with steep stairs from = ground to=20 first, thatch roof, comfortable and romantic. Day-trippers tend to = invade the=20 pool. There are four communal bathroom, but they are private. The = beach-side huts are worth the extra $10. At least one traveller has = been=20 embarrassed by staff rudely not accepting the =91freebies=92 included = in their=20 package. They recommend having a photocopy of all documents.=20 AppAUS$90/night.
    Drinks are cheaper at the restaurant to the left = of the=20 Huts.

  10. Lembongan Resort is very nice but a bit more = expensive=20 than the two above. The beach villas are about the best on the = island.=20

  11. Waka Nusa. More expensive =96 up to US$215.=20

  12. Bounty is similar to Bali Hi Tide. =96 Some = rooms have=20 A/C.

  13. Putu=92s B & B.

  14. Good food and service at Mushroom Bay, a = bungalow estate=20 on the northern end of the beach on a coral cliff above the Bali Hai = Beach=20 Club, run by Made Kester who evidently refuses to sell out to the Bali = Hai=20 Group. Available for drinks and meals even if you=92re not staying = there. =91A=20 million dollar view=92.

  15. Out the back gates of the Hai Tide Huts you will = find=20 Adi=92s Restaurant. Basic, cheap, clean, very nice food with a nice = upstairs=20 area.

  16. At Tamarind Beach, the first road after Adi=92s, = about a 10=20 minute walk, there is a little restaurant with a sand floor to the = left on the=20 beach. There are also bungalows here. The owner is Ketut and he knows = a quick=20 way back to the Hai Tide Huts. The restaurant at Dream Beach will pick = you up=20 in a BMW. Nice food, sunsets.

  17. The Nusa Lembongan Restaurant has great food but = the=20 prices match. Their bungalows are luxurious but with little=20 outlook.

  18. Wayans B & B. Aussie with of local man runs = nice=20 place.

  19. Mushroom Beach Bungalows. On the headland of = Tanjung=20 Sanghyang overlooking the bay next to Bali Hai Tide Resort.=20 Rp200,000/room/night including taxes and breakfast.

  20. On Lembongan = Island there is=20 Ketut=92s Bungalows, facing across a still bay towards Mt Agung back = on Bali.=20 There is a choice of A/C or fan cooling and the Waku Restaurant is = just up the=20 road. Clean and pleasant. Cold beer and nice views across the seaweed=20 farms.

  21. Puri Nusa Cafe is = good place=20 to eat.

  22. Batu Karan is one = of the=20 newer, nicer and more expensive restaurants on Lembongan.

  23. Kanalua Cafe is next to the Puri Nusa. Good = food at=20 about Rp200,000 for 4 hungry surfers.

  24. Ketut's Warung is = a family=20 concern. There is a set menu for Rp6,000 or great Thai for about = Rp22,000 per=20 dish. It is past Agung's but before Agus's place. Look for the sign by = some=20 bungalows that are in need of some TLC. There is a money changer down = here=20 also.

  25. Agus' Shipwreck = Bar has=20 good, simple food. Try the seafood Bar-B-Q.

  26. Surfers Cafe has = gas fired=20 pizza's that are as good as home.

  27. Mangrove Cafe is = right on=20 the water and a very peaceful setting. The Indonesian menu should be = extended=20 when the new kitchen is finished ('06).

  28. The Bali Cafe have = a van and=20 they will pick you up./ 036 624 536 or 338 609 240.

  29. Puri Nusa is = almost at the=20 end of the hotels and bungalows. Updated with A/C and hot water in = '06. Rooms=20 from Rp150,000 per night, about AU$21.

  30. Linda's Bungalows = is by=20 Shipwrecks Break, well known to surfers. AU$12/night ('07) for twin = room.=20 Restaurant has extensive and cheap menu. No pool but right on the = beach which=20 is OK for swimming. No aircon; cold showers. Double or twin beds. = Staff will=20 hire you their mopeds to explore the island.

  31. Villa Rumah Kami = pleased one=20 traveller in '07. Google their web site for more info. =

# = 6=20 - UBUD=20 DISTRICT SECTION.

Go to Ubud soon and enjoy it before = it=20 self-destructs & becomes a suburban clone of Kuta. Ghastly=20 thought!

Jalan Raya is the main street = through Ubud=20 and the road that you will probably enter the town if coming from the = southern=20 tourist areas.

There is one main crossing with = Monkey=20 Forest road where you'll find the markets on one corner, the old palace = on=20 another. The 'town hall' (actually the bale of the Pura desa Ubud where = the=20 local orchestra can sometimes be found at practice) is on the third = corner and a=20 tourist information facility on the remaining one.

This is an easy starting point and a = return=20 reference point for your investigations of the town and your driver will = surely=20 park near here.

The markets start very early in the = morning=20 and it's best for you to be there as early as you can. The morning = sunlight=20 filtering through the leaves of the old tree by the shrine, playing on = the=20 writhing incense smoke from the multitude of offerings is a = photographer's=20 delight. The=20 palace is still occupied by the local royalty although visitors can roam = through=20 much of it and there is a sort of a 'backpackers place' in one = part.

There is a nice general map that = will give=20 you a good idea of the layout at www.geocities.co= m/baliguide/ubudmap.html. =20

Ubud is recognised as the centre of = the=20 arts, particularly the painting/graphic arts, of Bali =96 although there = are any=20 number of other towns that will dispute this. Shopping at the Ubud = markets will=20 quite often reveal goods that are half the price if identical things in=20 Kuta/Legian/Sanur and certainly Nusa Dua. Far from being only an arts = centre=20 Ubud also has some of the best restaurants packed into one small area = than=20 almost anywhere else in Bali. It is also part of the 'cradle' of = Balinese=20 religion, culture and history, with many very ancient temples and = archaeological=20 sites that date from before living memory and even in some instances = before the=20 local cultural memory. If this sort of thing interests you, or you are = one to=20 ask, 'how did they do that?' then you should go to Gunung Kawi where the = rock=20 arches, steps and cliff-face monuments will stun you, and that's before = you try=20 to find the 'Tenth Tomb'. It's a very steep, long and wearying route = down to=20 this site and ten times worse coming up. A little easier is the Yeh Pelu = site=20 with its rock-carved story across a cliff face, set in bright green rice = fields=20 and a gurgling creek or a short ride to the village of Pejeng where = you'll find=20 the incredible 'Moon of Pejeng' on its own bale in the = temple.

There are no taxis in Ubud, except = for the=20 odd one which may have brought tourists up from the south, the driver of = which=20 is looking for a return fare to boost his income. The local hire = vehicles do not=20 have meters of course. Agree on a price before you get = in.

** Beware=20 of temporary tattoos. Many people have severe = reactions to=20 the chemical cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, = and which=20 is toxic and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in = children with=20 recent reports saying that one in five children will be = effected.=20 The scars after blistering may be permanent and flare up at times of = stress.=20 Refer to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html .=20 Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief but would you want = to be=20 doing this for the rest of your life - or condemn your children to = this???=20
Researchers in Germany have also uncovered a link between temporary = tattoos=20 and permanent, lifelong dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). = Sufferers=20 remain allergic to some metals, detergents and foods FOR LIFE!
** Be = even=20 more careful of permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you un-seal any sterile = equipment=20 and that you see the gun sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes = as these=20 can also transmit Hep C.

 

SHOPPING.=20

Change your=20 money in the south if possible as you will frequently find slightly = lower rates=20 in these northern areas. If you need to change money in Ubud there is a = Post=20 Office/Internet shop a little east of the market and on the same side in = a=20 glass-fronted shop.  You can also fax cheaply from here.
Ubud = tailors=20 are not as good as those in the southern tourist areas. =

Check the=20 museums before you negotiate for paintings and other art works. Quality = and=20 price vary wildly. Galleries will quote you in US$, often without saying = so.
Don't overlook Jl Hanoman for shopping

  1. The Bintang Supermarket = in Campuan=20 (that part of Ubud that is always further up the hill) is a fairly = ugly blot=20 on the landscape but the goods inside are OK, as are the prices. It's = in the=20 same main street as the markets and the Palace but uphill and east = from these.=20

  2. Tino's is a mini mart = near Casa=20 Luna on the main through road past the markets and the Palace=20 intersection.

  3. Tegallalang Village north of Ubud. = Woodcarving. Xmas decorations and flowers in roadside shops. Better = than more=20 noted carving villages. At Tegallalang there are some great light = shades to be=20 had at roadside shops. Only 15 minutes from Monkey Forest road. = Beautiful=20 scenery on the way too.

  4. King Silver at Do Drop Inn, behind = soccer=20 field.

  5. Purpa Silver=20 shop. Monkey Forest Road, on the right just south of the soccer pitch. = Greatest range of chains. Dads can change money and get a Bintang at = the same=20 time.

  6. Seraphim for sterling silver. On = Monkey=20 Forest road towards the sanctuary end. Not cheap but excellent = quality, even=20 by European standards. Contemporary designs. Fixed prices are = reasonable =96=20 from US$30. Re-sizing no cost.

  7. Putra Silver is at = Batubulan on the=20 way to Ubud. Two level building painted white with a big sign at the = front. On=20 the right as you go to Ubud. Excellent prices. Recommended highly in=20 '06.

  8. Mentari Pagi Silver =96 opposite = Seraphim=20 (see above). Modern & antique styles. Cash only. US$15 min. = Bargaining=20 required.

  9. There are many silversmiths in and = near=20 Ubud. Many will work to your design as a matter of course, but the = cost will=20 be higher if a one-off mould is needed for the piece. See Bandem = Community of=20 Silversmiths in Singapadu near Ubud.

  10. Alamkara Exquisite Jewellery. Jl = Dewi=20 Sita. Fixed prices. Bracelets app RP250,000, necklaces Rp370,000.=20

  11. Ebony Gallery in Mas. Master = Carver.=20

  12. Seniwati Gallery exhibits only = female=20 artists. Some striking exhibitions. Ph 975 485.

  13. Jazz Caf=E9. Wood items for sale = too.=20

  14. Sukawati Markets near Ubud. The = markets=20 'wholesale'that the southern sellers use to source their wares. Get=20 Umble-umbles or Penjor, (amongst many other things)=20 the tall slim flags flown on bamboo poles throughout Bali and temple = umbrellas=20 of various sizes. Don=92t go if you suffer from claustrophobia, or if = you must=20 then stick to the street stalls. Try also the more local markets at = Guwang=20 about 3 Km before Sukawati which are good for = paintings.=20

  15. Ubud markets. Different goods to = Kuta,=20 particularly watches if you search.

  16. Casa Lina Homewares. On Jl Raya = Lungsiakan=20 near the bridge. Tremendous range of goods.

  17. Kuluk Gallery also for homewares. = In=20 Kedewatan north of the Neka Museum, before Amandari Hotel. =

  18. Babylon near Kukuk Gallery =91is a = treat for=20 the senses=92 =96 up-market homewares.

  19. Wardani=92s on Monkey Forest Road, = about=20 across from football pitch, for fabrics. Will custom make for you.=20

  20. Delta Dewata Supermarket.=20

  21. If you're=20 looking for nice prints of the 'old masters of Bali art' go to the = Neka=20 Gallery. It's worth a visit even if you're not after prints. Here you = will=20 find the original of the most (poorly) copied painting in all of Bali; = 'Mutual=20 Attraction' by Abdul Aziz, and the story of how these two got = together.=20

  22. Rai Pasti Tailor on Monkey Forest = Road,=20 south of Caf=E9 Wayan and on the opposite side.

  23. Pesona=20 Antiques =96 Bedroom Gentong, Tegallalang (0361 901 578) for small = furniture and=20 nick knacks. Different. Cheap.

  24. Near Pesona Antiques are Bali Jaya = Abadi=20 and I Made Dana Shop (Dream Catchers) (081 238 04504). =

  25. Wind Chimes =96 Try Gogo near the = Puri Padi=20 and the Jalan Jalan Hotel.

  26. Books; Periplus books near the top = of=20 Monkey Forest road =96 knowledgeable staff. Also a used book section = for holiday=20 reading.
    Ubud music in the main street between the markets/palace = corner=20 and the supermarket =96 books and music.
    Ganesha Book shop.=20

  27. Pasmina shawls=20 and other beaut stuff at River Valley in Jl Monkey Forest. Also shoes = and=20 beaded tops.

  28. Bali Becak for=20 beads. In monkey Forest Rd near the soccer pitch.

  29. Ubud Beads has=20 wonderful gemstone beads. Two shops in Monkey Forest Road and one also = in=20 Celuk.

  30. Fatma for=20 jewellery, t-shirts and nick-nacks. Also in Monkey Forest road. =

  31. On the lower=20 end of Monkey Forest Road, on the right as you come up (its one-way) = is Ibu=20 Repin Shop run by Kadek Widnyani, a small almost non-descript shop = that sells=20 the best quality sarongs in all of Bali. Always a different range from = other=20 shops and markets. kadekwid@hotmail.com. Ph = (0361) 7443=20 197.

EATING.  -  If you're in Ubud or travelling west from there = or=20 Bedugul, or east from Tabanan or in the Batu Karu area, see if you can = find=20 Prana Dewi in the middle of red rice fields and little streams. Its a = mountain=20 resort with bungalows and a restaurant specialising in natural foods. http://www.balipranaresort.com/<= /A>, Ph=20 (+62) 361 736 654 or 081 338 660 154. Try their red rice Nasi=20 Goreng.

  1. Miros, Ubud. = =91Hospitable owners=20 but average food=92. (=9202).

  2. Ketupat Rest, = Ubud. Kadek &=20 Joy Sugiartha =96 traditional ****

  3. Caf=E9 Bridge, = Ubud. On opposite=20 side from Murni=92s Warung. Food just as good as at Murni=92s. =

  4. Indus, Jl Raya = Sanggigan, Ubud.=20 *** Owned by Casa Luna. Plenty of room. Health foods on wide menu. = Views of=20 rice terraces & coconut plantations.

  5. Bumbu Bali, = Indian, Ubud. Need=20 to book. *****

  6. Murni=92s = Warung or=20 Murney=92s Warung, Ubud. Go to tottom level at sunset to see the very = sacred=20 meeting of rivers, the bats & fireflies. Food very disappointing, = June=20 =9203.

  7. Ary=92s = Warung, in the main=20 street. Highly recommended. French chef (2002). =91Tasting Menu=92 =96 = 6 or 7=20 courses for Rp145,000. Try the smoked duck (12 hours notice), Rp88,000 = for 2.=20 Re-fill your water bottle, with good water, cheaper than a new one and = less=20 polluting.

  8. CURRY !!! Best in = Bali. Gajah=20 Biru Caf=E9 India, Penestanan Rd Ubud.

  9. Red Rice, Sayan = village near=20 Ubud between Amandari & Four Seasons.

  10. Batun Waru, = Ubud. Jl Dewi=20 Sita, off Monkey Forest road. One of the smaller but eternally popular = cafes.=20 Never disappoints. Has a Chilli Crab Night every Tuesday but you need = to book=20 or be very early.

  11. Honeymoon Bakery = Caf=E9 =96=20 Honeymoon Bakery Guesthouse =96 Caf=E9 Luna Rest. =96 Cooking school. = In the heart=20 of Ubud.

  12. Caf=E9 Wayan, = Ubud. ****=20 Chocolate. Very mixed reports. Not as good as Guide Books say. Service = slow=20 and sloppy. Don=92t try the fish but the Sunday Feasts are good. = Lovely garden=20 setting, pretty at night. Gazpacho excellent. Great cakes. Good = toilets.=20

  13. Swasdee Thai, = Monkey Forest=20 south of Lotus Lane. HOT!!

  14. Sai Sai Bar, = pasta =96 pesto,=20 Ubud

  15. Casa Luna, Ubud. = *** An =91in=92=20 place but it has its ups and downs in both food & service. Not = really=20 expensive but small servings. Great lunches of fresh pastry and banana = lassi.=20 Sister outlet to Caf=E9 Indus. Run by author and ex-Aussie Janet de = Neefe and=20 her Balinese husband.

  16. Puri Asri is a = little way north=20 and east of Ubud in the village of Petulu. It is worth seeking out,=20 particularly for early Sunday lunch. The menu varies daily, depending = on=20 what=92s good at the morning markets. Accommodation is also available = here. Ph=20 (0361) 973 123. Rated amongst the best in Ubud.

  17. Puri Gardens is = about halfway=20 up (or down) Monkey Forest Road in the heart of Ubud.  New owners = in '05=20 have lifted the place out of the ordinary just by trying. A = particularly nice=20 coffee stop if you're walking up from the Forest to the market or the=20 palace.

  18. Bali Pesto. So = popular you=20 should try to book ahead. Two courses and a glass of wine for = Rp70,000. Value=20 and good. Monkey Forest Road. Good Italian food and a great specials = menu on=20 the wall, even better than the printed one, both so tempting and = varied. In=20 2004 we had cold tomato soup that was as good as She makes and so = tangy;=20 battered calamari with deep fried basil leaves. These came with = beautiful=20 bread rolls. The Spanish pork main was tasty and succulent but a wee = bit on=20 the chewy side. Spag Bol was superb. We almost succumbed to deserts = but just=20 could not manage them. Prices a little higher than average Bali but so = was the=20 food; Rp177,000 with aquas, Bintangs and tax; Aus$18.40 for two. The = toilet=20 (singular) looked as if it had had a hard day.

  19. The original = Caf=E9 Pesto is in=20 the nearby village of Camphuan just out of Ubud, on the side of the = river=20 valley. Still good in 2004 after a big renovation to increase the = size. Really=20 good value. Focus is on Indonesian food but an international variety = is also=20 available. Otak otak is seafood patties with tomato and chilli sauce = on the=20 side so you can add as much or as little as you like. Pork sausages = and Lumpia=20 (the Indo version of Spring Rolls) are also worthy of a taste. Is this = the=20 =91bright orange building on Jl Pengosekan above Ubud=92 that the Bali = Eats News=20 raves about? If so it has a special Saturday bar-b-que.

  20. Tutmak, Ubud. = Lunch - Choc=20 milkshakes. Tuna steaks! Good coffee. Best value. Small but always = seems to be=20 busy =96 and that tells you something.

  21. Ryoshi, = once lauded as=20 the greatest was described as =91so so=92 in =9204.

  22. Dirty Duck, Ubud. = Small serves.=20 Mixed reviews. Perhaps it all depends on the cook for the night. Ask = how the=20 name originated. Reports on =9204 suggested that the establishment had = finally=20 fallen down over family disputes and remains but a poor shadow of its = former=20 self.

  23. Lotus Garden = (Thai), not good=20 at times. Where Mick Jagger and WhatsHerName got married. On Monkey = Forest=20 Road south of Sai Sai Club. Great sunsets over the Lotus ponds. =

  24. Dian caf=E9, = Ubud.

  25. Naughty Nuri=92s, = Camphuan=20 opposite Neka Museum on road to Sayan. Burgers!! 400gm steaks = cooked any=20 way you like them, with any sauce, potato wedges etc etc. Fresh tuna = sashimi=20 on Thursday night =96 ex-pats night out =96 great for social = intercourse but not=20 if you want a quiet and romantic meal. Beware their martinis. = US$$/drink but=20 not the usual half strength Bali offerings. Meeting place for Bali=92s = Hash=20 House Harriers. =93The best food in Bali!=94 Tromol Pos N0 219, Ubud. = Ph/fax (62=20 361) 977 547

  26. Kin Khao Thai = Rest. 973 331.=20 (Also Tuban 757 808, Legian 750 089 & Kuta 732 153.) Reliable but = not=20 cheapest.

  27. Terrazzo, Jl = Suweta. 978 941.=20 New. Mixed food. Attentive service. Trendy caf=E9. Dinner for 2 = including wine=20 & coffee; Rp250,000.

  28. Cahaya = Dewata, overlooks=20 Ayung River, (near Kupu Kupu Barong). Good steaks. Rp60,000 with fries = &=20 mushrooms. Two courses with drinks AUS$35. Mie Goreng. Perhaps the = most=20 spectacular restaurant views in all of Bali, particularly from the = highest=20 level.

  29. Jazz Caf=E9 has a = new chef (mid=20 =9201) and the food is great again (but not cheap) and the music is = cool. Try=20 the pizza.

  30. Swasti=92s = Warung. Upstairs=20 opposite Hotel Champlung Sari.

  31. Laka Leke, Nyuh = Kuning street.=20 One of the best. Ph (0361) 977 565.

  32. Dari Mana (French = =96 and you=92d=20 better believe it!) Try the steaks. Looks like a simple warung. French = wine at=20 not totally unreasonable prices.

  33. Batu Waru, = brassiere style =96=20 western & Asian. (Hannoman Road?)

  34. Caf=E9 Bantan = Waru. Opposite=20 Palace. Good food and great coffee.

  35. Mumbles. =

  36. Casa Pasta is the = new name for=20 the re-built Bebek Bengil 2. Facing soccer pitch near Tegal Sari and = looking=20 out over a small and very neat paddy. Superb food and view. An = enclosed and=20 A/C bar at the side with a DJ frequently and a small handkerchief on = which you=20 can dance fairly painlessly in the cool environment. Sometimes = ordinary=20 service and forgettable food in the past (Who=92s the cook tonight?) = the house=20 specialty is now focussed on Pasta rather than the past steamed duck = with=20 spices, deep fried, sambals with tomato, spices, limes, chilli which = however=20 are still available if you order them.

  37. Kokokan Thai. =

  38. Darimana is a restaurant with very good = French style=20 food. Its by the Monkey Forest. Simple d=E9cor and low prices despite = the=20 quality.

  39. Ibah Luxury = Villas. Not cheap.=20 Great for special occasions.

  40. Gaja Biru Indian. = Very pretty.=20 Highly recommended. Small, private pavilions set in a garden. Candles = add to=20 the atmosphere. Set price Rp75,000. Meat or vegetarian curries a = specialty.=20 Raya Penestanan.

  41. Mozaic with = a nice garden=20 setting on Jl Raya Sanggigen on the way to Sayan on the Monkey Forest = road=20 near the soccer field, with a choice of wines, by the glass if you = want, but=20 at very high prices. New =9202. Now open for lunch as well as dinner. = Highly=20 skilled serving staff. ***** =91Tasting menu' (multiple dishes) = Rp200,000.=20 Excellent toilets. Ph 975 768. Many locals will say that this is the = best in=20 Bali, certainly the best in Ubud.

  42. Bantan Waru =96 = drinks &=20 cakes in the afternoon.

  43. Lamak, on the = Monkey Forest=20 road near the soccer field, a wide choice of wines, by the glass at = reasonable=20 prices. New =9202. Highly recommended, =93Perhaps the best in the = whole of Bali=94.=20 Managed by Roland Lickert who is also the head chef. The western = (American)=20 d=E9cor might not be what some seek in Bali but the food is superb. = Recommended=20 as number 1 for lunch and also remarkable for dinner. Ph (0361) 974 = 668. Try=20 not to look up at the ceiling when you go to the toilet!

  44. Caf=E9 Lotus on = Jl Raya Ubud=20 facing the remarkable temple, Pura Taman Kemunda Saraswati which was = designed=20 by probably Bali=92s most famous artist, Nyoman Lempad. Reborn by Pak = Hans in=20 2000 from an =91also-ran=92 caf=E9 to a highly respected restaurant = rated number 2=20 in Bali by respected reviewers. Ph (0361) 975 660. Tuesday and = Saturday nights=20 are the times to see the dance troupe from the royal palace perform.=20

  45. Caf=E9 Arma has = good food but=20 nowhere as good value as it was. Rp 200,000 for two with no alcoholic = drinks!=20

  46. Nuriani, = near the Tegal=20 Sari hotel (a little way out from the centre of Ubud) has simple, = cheap and=20 tasty food with a nice view of the sunset.

  47. Three Monkeys = Caf=E9 on Monkey=20 Forest road. Mixed cuisines. Has breakfasts too.

  48. The Bridge = Caf=E9. A secret place=20 for great value meals. Don=92t tell anyone about it.

  49. Warubg Enak is a = local style=20 eatery with a better than usual kitchen staff in a modern building. = Its in=20 Pengosekan overlooking the rice paddys.

  50. The Barandi is = =91new=92 on the=20 scene is 2003, being the reincarnation of previous caf=E9/restaurants. = In the=20 village of Pengosekan just outside Ubud. Beware of the hot Moroccan = sausages.=20 Great live music Thurs/Fri nights.

  51. Roma Roda. Just = off the main=20 street above a clothing museum. A small restaurant attached to a house = and=20 Homestay. Dinner for 2 less than $5. Balinese and quantity with = quality.=20

  52. Zulu. Vegetarian = as is (was?)=20 the original Zulu in Seminyak is next to Casa Luna if your driver = doesn=92t know=20 of it. Vegans will also be satisfied here.

  53. The Koi Steamboat = is difficult=20 to find but well worthwhile. Just a couple of doors from the Dewata=20 Supermarket, through a small shop leads you to a garden terrace and = gallery.=20 Asian Steamboats (known by other names, such as shabu shabu in Japan) = are=20 self-cook affairs where you add meat and vegetable ingredients to a = boiling=20 broth then dip them in various sauces and then finish up with the = fresh,=20 nutritious and delicious soup in the boiler. If someone in your party = is not a=20 steamboat enthusiast there is a regular menu as well.

  54. New in =9204 is = the Space Colonie=20 in a lane off Jl Raya Ubud called Jl Goutama next to the Nomad. Good = coffee=20 and sandwiches for lunch or brunch and good fish and chips for those = wanting a=20 taste of home. Vegetarian also. Save room for the desserts. =

  55. Ibu Oka = Restaurant. Small but=20 delightful. Near the markets Best is Babi Guling (roast suckling pig) = at=20 Rp10,000 per serve. That=92s about Aus$1.50! That's it! There is no = choice here.=20 Their reputation has spread to western cooking and gourmet shows on = TV. Don't=20 be put off by the outside appearance but do be put off (or at least = cautious=20 of) by the highly spiced stuffing used. 'A Bali Institution'. 'A = flavour=20 extravaganza'. 'A wonderful culinary experience'.

  56. Try to find Cafe = Roda and=20 Guesthouse on a small side lane off Jl Sueta. You'll probably need to = ask=20 directions but it's worth the effort. For groups of 10 there can be a = Bali=20 Feast of 10 courses for Rp30,000 a head.

  57. The Greenhouse is = new (=9205) on=20 Monkey Forest Road in Ubud. The striking building with green glass = windows=20 contrasting against the white stone is easy to spot. Nice bar snacks = are=20 available just as nibbles or as entrees.

  58. Coffee and Silver = is also newly=20 located (=9205) in Ubud. Now at the bottom of Monkey Forest Road = actually=20 overlooking the forest you have a choice of glass enclosed or open = areas.=20 Breakfasts, lunches and dinners at reasonable prices will tempt = you.=20

  59. Batan Waru from = Ubud has opened=20 a branch in Tuban (=9205) at the Bali Garden Hotel (a great value = place too),=20 cooled and offering an international menu don=92t overlook the Bali = dishes.=20 Sunday night is Chilli Crab Night =96 or chilli something else from = the ocean.=20 Saturday is Bar-B-Q night.

  60. The Indus is on = the upper=20 levels of Ubud, near the Tjamphuan hotel.

  61. Kemiri is the = restaurant at the=20 Uma Hotel in Sanggigan, Ubud. Aussie chef late '05 focuses on healthy = and=20 tasty food.

  62. Waroeng, an old form of the name serving old fashioned = Balinese food=20 which comes, tasty, from fresh produce passing through a smart and = clean=20 kitchen. Traditionally, Nasi Campur is rice garnished and supported by = whatever happens to be available in the kitchen. The principle is the = same=20 here but you can choose your own extras from vegetables or meats. In = Ubud on=20 Monkey Forrest Road, new in mid =9205, the prices will bring the first = smile to=20 your face.

  63. L'arbre a=20 Plumes is on Jl Hanoman at No49. It looks like a bookshop where you = might get=20 a drink but you'll find a small but very nice restaurant with both = French=20 Mediterranean and Indo on the menu. You can go through the bookshelves = for=20 either a look, a read or a purchase.

  64. Dragonfly=20 Bar and Grill on Jl Dewi Sita. Ph(62 361) 972 973. Wi-Fi also and live = jazz on=20 Saturday nights.

  65. Kafe Copper=20 has a Belgian owner who takes pride in his [copper] utensils. Near the = Monkey=20 Forest you can get good food and cold drinks.

  66. Warung Enak=20 is a sister restaurant to Lamak [in the main road, Jl Monkey Forest] = but it is=20 near the Tegal Sari Hotel. The food is comparable with Lamak or La = Lucciola or=20 Ma Jolie; great for a last meal in Ubud. The toilets are=20 sparkling.

  67. In the=20 beautiful and historic Petanu Valley (not far from where the flocks of = ibis=20 roost every night) just a few Km's north of Ubud is The Viceroy and = its=20 restaurant, CasCades. A new chef late '05 has taken the place a bit = upmarket.=20 The cheese nights on Friday can be recommended. A wide menu is offered = every=20 night.

  68. Ibu Rai is=20 at the upper end of the central Monkey Forest road not far from the = market and=20 the Palace. The water gardens are now no more ('05) but the leafy = terrace that=20 replaces them is nice for a relaxed nibble with drinks while the = steaming=20 tourists rush by.

  69. Warunk Enak=20 ("beautiful food') have a pick-up and drop-off service to central = Ubud. First=20 class dining and service. 'A special place'. Ph(62 361) 972 911. On = Pengosekan=20 road.

  70. Aashiana is=20 across that well known soccer pitch and is in a large building. Indian = and=20 Chinese menus. Marvellous food from either with good service.=20

  71. Deli-Cat is=20 next door to Aashiana (see just above) and is a great place for lunch = or=20 dinner with a little wine store attached. Try their selection of = vintage=20 cheeses!

  72. Nomads in=20 the centre of Ubud is great for an afternoon snack if you're too late = for=20 lunch. Great juices for only Rp10,000. Have a selection of Bali tapas. = Sublime. Two people, two drinks, two courses, too full, Rp70,000. = Aus$10=20 app.

  73. Lake Leke=20 is through the Monkey Forest. Walk through or drive around at night. = Beautiful=20 lotus pools.

  74. Cafe Wayan=20 Restaurant and Bakery on Monkey Forest Road.

  75. Tropical=20 Bale has evolved from the previous bakery on Jl Raya Sanggingan which = goes up=20 the hill past the art museum. Overlooking rice fields the food is = different=20 and created with passion by the East Timorese who grew up in Oz and = has been=20 around the world's bakeries. There are 2 set dinner menus at Rp150 or = 180,000=20 or there is a la carte. When you go look at the hand-made=20 service.

DRINKING.

 

VISITING.    &nb= sp; =20

There are VERY aggressive Street sellers in = Kintamani on=20 the rim of the Gunung Batur crater north of Ubud. It is a spectacular = place but=20 be warned!

Ubud's reputation as an art centre probably dates = from the=20 1930's when foreign artists such as Walter Spies lived and worked there. = He=20 attracted and was followed by others such as Rudolf Bonnet, Willem = Hoffker,=20 Abdul Aziz and the erotic Antonio Blanco (his home and studio - now a = gallery -=20 are still in Ubud) and with Royal patronage they encouraged the first = wave of=20 local artists. If you are seeking paintings take some care or take = someone with=20 knowledge because much of what is sold as 'art' in Bali today is mass = produced=20 rubbish for the tourist market.

Less well known is Ubud's place in Bali's history, = religion=20 and culture. It is located at the auspicious junction of two rivers = and has=20 many ancient temples and sacred sites within easy driving distance of = the cross=20 road.   

For stories of our visits to places in Ubud go to = http://www.filosbali.net/ and = look down the=20 left side column for things like Gunung Kawi, Archaeological Museum, Yeh = Pelu=20 and the Ubud Village hotel.

 

  1. The King=92s Palace. Serene atmosphere and = beautiful.=20 Regular dance nights are amongst the best you=92ll find. It=92s on the = crossroad=20 right opposite the markets. In the afternoon you might see the local = children=20 at their dance class.

  2. Yeh Pulu rock carvings. Ancient Balinese = history. 14th=20 century. Beautiful, serene amazing.

  3. 16th century Rice Temple. Not magnificent to = western=20 eyes but a focus of Balinese beliefs.

  4. Pura Penateron Sasih and the cast bronze Moon = of Pejeng=20 drum about 4 Km east of the centre of Ubud. Consider the elements of = bronze=20 and their total absence from Bali and the size of the rock moulds = required to=20 cast this monster, to say nothing of the fire to heat and melt it all = - and=20 you'll surely ask, 'How did they do that?' Also visit the cave and = ancient=20 altar in the river bank nearby.

  5. Pura=20 Tegeh Kuripan =96 11th century. Ancient carvings.

  6. Ganesha=20 Book Shop, Ubud. Up the Monkey Forest road turn right at the = palace/markets T=20 junction. Less than 1 km from this corner.

  7. Ubud=20 Music near Ganesha also sells books.

  8. The=20 Periplus Bookshop is near the top of Monkey Forest Road. Good=20 assistants.

  9. Klub=20 Kokos, Ubud. Run by Cathi & Trish. http://www.klubkokos.com/ .=20

  10. Nyoman=20 Batuan, artist, Pengosekan Art. Comm., Ubud.

  11. Palm Fine=20 Art Galleries, Jl Raya Lungsiakan, Sanggigan. Small gallery with mixed = styles.=20 A/C.  Ph 979 081. Friendly personal attention.

  12. Gaja Mas=20 Gallery. Jl Raya Pengosekan.

  13. Celuk=20 Sukawati silver (upstairs in market) Rp85,000/gram (not Rp105,000 as = in the=20 south).

  14. Exhibition Ikat weaving looms on Monkey Forest = Road or the=20 mills in Gianyar about 20 min out of Ubud. Cap Cilli is one of biggest = welcome=20 visitors but their prices are a bit steep by local standards. Mills = also in=20 Klungkung. Wardani Boutique on Monkey Forest Road has good selection = and will=20 bargain. Will also cut and hem sarong lengths free.

  15. Silver=20 beads =96 Wholesale (and others) Nyoman Partha Gold & Silversmith, = Jl Selat,=20 Gianyar. Prices by weight or lot. Not easy to find. Ask locally. = Clasps,=20 stones etc. Ask for business prices.

  16. Gunung=20 Kawi, nine enormous carvings in the stone walls of the river gorge. = App 30-40=20 min drive from Ubud. Huge and very old. North east of Ubud towards=20 Tampaksiring and Kintamani.

  17. =91The=20 Tenth Tomb=92 not far from Gunung Kawi statues across the rice = terraces to your=20 right as you go down to Gunung Kawi carvings. Eerie walk. Makes you = wonder=20 about the days when it was in use as a retreat for meditation and the = holy men=20 were walled into the small niches.

  18. There is=20 a Balian (traditional healer) in the village of Sandeng near the = Gunung Kawi=20 carvings on the road to Tampaksiring. Another is in Batuan village = just north=20 of Sukawati.

  19. Goa=20 Gajah, the so called 'Elephant Temple'.

  20. Telaga=20 Waja. Very beautiful.

  21. Tegallinggah candi excavated in solid rock.=20

  22. Agus=20 Artists Colony.

  23. Made Joni=20 Art Gallery.

  24. Tagel=20 Karsa Art Gallery.

  25. The Neka=20 Gallery is one of the best true art museums, as well as being a = gallery, in=20 Bali. Housed in imaginative buildings it has a wide range of works by = Balinese=20 and western artists in all of the variety of styles found on the = island. Give=20 it at least half a day. Student artists live and work there = also. http://www.museumneka.com/ .=20 Refreshments available and clean toilets. Wonderful prints for sale at = low=20 prices.
    Some travellers claim that the Puri Lukisan is a better = museum for=20 traditional Balinese crafts. You=92ll need to visit both and make up = your own=20 mind. It=92s on the main street, Jl Raya, not far from the Lotus=20 Restaurant.

  26.  Antonio Blanco=92s House. Art Gallery. = Rp10,000 entry=20 but well worth it even for non art-o-phobes. The Blanco Renaissance = Museum has=20 some amazing displays. Be aware that Blanco=92s favourite subject was = erotic=20 art. Perhaps its not for young children.

  27. Museum=20 Rudana in Peliatan near Ubud. In its 8th year now (=9204) is dedicated = to the=20 best of Bali=92s art.

  28. =93The best=20 view in Bali!=94 The Ayung River gorge from the Cahaya Dewata = (God=92s=20 Radiance) from the restaurant Terrace. Better that from other more = expensive=20 hotels such as Amandari, Kupu-kupu Barong or Begawan Giri. =

  29. Ceking=20 village rice terraces.

  30. The=20 Indonesian-American Children's Learning Centre and Library. Donations = of=20 reading materials are always welcome. It is a volunteer organisation,=20 currently trying to raise funds to employ a trained = librarian.=20

  31. The=20 Gentle Birthing Clinic (www.gentlebirthsBali.org) just a Km or two = south of=20 Ubud is run by Robin. The address is Yasan Bumi Sehat, Nyuh Kunung = Village. Ph=20 62-361-972 732 or 081 797 575 22. Donations of kiddie stuff (or cash) = are=20 always acceptable.

  32. The Kupu=20 Kupu Foundation, dedicated to the assistance of handicapped children = in Bali,=20 has opened a gallery showing the art and handicraft works of these = people. Jl=20 Tirta Tawar 22A, Banjar Kutuh Kelod, UBUD. Go and be amazed. Corner of = Jl Raya=20 Ubud and Jl Hanoman. E-mail kupubali@yahoo.com, web site www.yamp.com/kupukupu.  = Mobile=20 081 236 287 20. Prefix this with 62 if using International=20 mobile.

  33. Visit the=20 villages of Penestanan and Camphuan just north of Ubud. The scenery is = fantastic but the area is being developed by tourist lodgings and will = loose=20 its character if this trend continues.

  34. Little=20 boxes made for cloves can be found at Kintamani which is on the edge = of the=20 Mount Batur crater some distance north of Ubud.

  35. Kintamani=20 volcano. The hawkers here can be horrific. Eat at the Grand Puckat = Sari =96 best=20 views =96 sit on the ledge cut out of the crater's side =96 Buffet = (Rp60,000) or=20 menu. Menu is probably safer if you=92ve seen the action at the=20 buffet.

  36. The Bali Bird Walk is a = fascinating=20 experience, and not just for bird lovers either. It covers the rice = paddies,=20 traditional medicines, Balinese culture, plants and butterflies as = well as=20 native birds. Starting from the Ubud bridge near Murni's Warung and = the Blanco=20 Art Museum at about 9am you'll find the guide, Su, a fountain of = information.=20 You'll marvel at the way a local farmer will open a coconut and put on = a=20 pouring lip to give you a refreshing drink just when you need it most. = A meal=20 is included in the price of the walk which finished just after noon. = http://www.balibirdwalk.com/.=20

DOING.

  1. Cooking=20 classes, Indus on Casa Luna, Ubud. Rp100,000. 973 282. Booking = required 1 week=20 in advance and not easy to get.

  2. Money changing:=20 It has been said that the safest place to change money in Bali is = anywhere in=20 Ubud. Small village =3D no place to hide for slick tricksters, but = always be=20 alert anywhere!
    * The clothing shop next to Ary=92s Warung in main = the street=20 & the photo shops towards the supermarket are reliable.
    * The = two shops=20 on west side of Monkey Forest road seem to have best rates. =96 Try to = get=20 currency in Rp50,000 notes or larger.
    * We have used the Jineng = Tourist=20 Service which also includes a money changer in their shop at 22X = Hanoman=20 Street, Padanglegal which is on the high side of Ubud. Any driver will = find it=20 for you. There are two cheerful young ladies there who are reliable, = honest=20 and very helpful with information. Ph (62-361)976 488.
    * Another = one is=20 near the Ubud Village Hotel, on the same side about 3 doors up the = hill.=20 Beware of the Internet shop near here. It is slowwww, drops out = continually=20 and the clock keeps ticking, to the delight no doubt of the aggressive = owner.=20 Beware also of the Three Brothers shop on the opposite side of the = road who is=20 a persistent cheat.
    * The Post Office (or is it the telephone = shop?) about=20 100 paces down from the football pitch on Monkey Forrest Road is = reliable=20 too.
    * If you're staying at or near the Tjamphuan there is a = reliable money=20 changer in the little shop opposite.
    * At the top of Jl Hanoman = there is a=20 little handbag shop and you can safely change money there also. It's = up a=20 fairly steep entry ramp.
    * The Ubud Music shop in the main street = opposite Cafe=20 Lotus and one at the top end of Monkey Forest Road are reliable.
    * = Purpa=20 Silver on Monkey Forest Road will also reliably change your = money.
    * There=20 are ATM's ('08) opposite the Lotus restaurant, (max Rp1.2 mill); alonk = both Jl=20 Monkey Forest and Raya Ubud (common max Rp1.5 million); at the = junction of Jl=20 Raya and Hanoman at Lippobank and at the BCA further down Hanoman = (max's Rp2.5=20 mill).

  3. Take=20 oranges/mandarins to the Monkey Forest instead of buying peanuts. = Beware of=20 the monkeys. At best they are tricksters and con-artists, at worst = they are=20 thieves and can be dangerous. They have no fear so you wont just = simply shoo=20 them away or off.

  4. Rice terraces=20 at Tirtagangga. Also Tegallalang (smaller).

  5. Ubud Sari=20 massage spa. Massage and Mandi Lulur for US$15, facials 14. =

  6. Milano Spa near=20 the Monkey Forest. Try the traditional Javanese body scrub with = turmeric.=20

  7. Bali Hati Spa.=20

  8. Native healer.=20 Cokorda Rai, Negara near Ubud. Reflexology??

  9. Sobek rafting=20 not the best.

  10. Silver &=20 money changing, Jl Monkey Forest.

  11. Walk the=20 Camphuan Ridge along the river valley. Take a brown Bemo (local = mini-bus) to=20 Camphuan, and get off at the bridge. Walk along the drive of the Ibah = Hotel=20 and you=92ll find the turn-off to the ridge. A couple of Km=92s on, in = the middle=20 of fields of Alang alang grass used for roof thatching, you=92ll find = the River=20 Wos on one side and the River Barat on the other. You=92ll find small = temples,=20 rice paddies and terracing and the welcome Klub Kokos for a drink. = Next is the=20 village of Bedulu where the Yeh Pulu (Holy spring from the stone urn) = provides=20 a lot of Bali=92s ceremonial water. Rp 4,000 to enter includes sash = and sarong.=20 14th century carvings down some steps where you can bathe.

  12. Funky Monkey=20 Night Club. Good cocktails.

  13. Bali Budaya=20 Tours run by ex-Aussie, Steve. Don't be taken in by copy operators = with=20 similar names and brochures but no quality. Bicycle trips start from a = volcano=20 breakfast and go down through rice paddies, villages and homes = to Ubud.=20 A pick-up truck follows in case you get saddle sore. 7.30 am start = with=20 pick-up at your hotel. Informative guides. Rp360,000. Eco Cycling tour = or=20 Jungle Trek. Ph975 557.

  14. Nur Salon=20 massages and spa. Much better than Bodyworks across the road. Balinese = setting. Skilled hands. The works for Rp90,000. Try their White Rose = Water=20 (air Sari Mawar Putih). Not cheap but magnificent. First class = presents at=20 home.

  15. Chakra Healing=20 Centre, Dr Ketut, opposite soccer field.

  16. Dsk Nyoman=20 Sucinadi. (Dsk =96 =91Day SAH=92) Traditional massage practice and = teacher.=20 Relaxation & healing. English not good but very intuitive. Get = hotel staff=20 to book her to come to your room. Only US$5.00! Gang Soka #4.Bedroom. = Taman=20 Klod, Ubud. Ph 081 735 3561.

  17. Zen Holiday=20 Spa. US$10 for 1.75 hours of total pampering. Magnificent views over = rice=20 paddies.

  18. Bali Eco &=20 Educational Cycling tours. Rp35,000 per person. As good as Sobek who = charge=20 US$55.

  19. Catch the=20 traditional dances at the Palace =96 yes, it=92s = a real Palace.=20

  20. Watch the=20 fireflies in the rice fields around the Ananda cottages.

  21. Ubud is on the=20 way to Kintamani and the spectacular crater lake of Mount Batur(1412 = metres).=20 On the way you'll pass Buana Amertha Sari, a tea, coffee, cocoa and = spices=20 plantation where you can sample their products including Lemon and = Ginger=20 teas, essential and massage oils and incense sticks. A peaceful = outlook over=20 the gardens and plantations is a nice break in the trip. Br Seribatu, = (Jurisan=20 Tampaksiring - Kintamani) Bangli. Ph (0361) 784 242. Show the address = to your=20 driver and he'll ask directions if he doesn't know it.

  22. Just opened in=20 '06 is a new Botanic Gardens only 1.5 Km from Ubud. Covering 5 = hectares=20 of natural ravines and ridge-top. Orchids, palms, bamboos, all the = tropical=20 trees and a maze to intrigue you and keep the kids busy. www.botanicgardenbali.com/= =20 .

  23. If you're=20 planning to head east or if you're looking for a nice day trip take = the road=20 through Rendang, north and east out of Ubud, up towards Besakih and Mt = Agung.=20 A very nice drive through some of the old historical parts of Bali and = spectacular rice fields and forests. Turn right at Rendang before you = get=20 hooked up in the Besakih rush and head to the bustling town of = Amlapura in the=20 central east. The local market here and the Dutch style main street is = fascinating. Look into a local Apotek (chemist) if you find one and = the shop=20 fittings and layout might take you back to your youth and beyond. Ask = for=20 Lawah (ginger) root rub if you've got aches and pains or get the local = recommendation for cuts and scratches. You'll be amazed. This is fine = trekking=20 country and just a smattering of Bahasa Indonesia will make you = welcome at any=20 of the little villages you might find along the way. The area is well = known=20 for its fine salak fruit with the brown snake skin and there are some=20 remarkable views down to the coast which might be 5 to 15 km away. At = the=20 village of Sideman you'll run across some of Bali's art history where = European=20 artists lived and worked and which is still a centre for traditional = arts=20 including the weaving of songket cloth with the silver and gold = threads. From=20 Amlapura you can turn back to Candi Dasa or make the same destination = by=20 taking the spectacularly scenic coast road through the water palace = town of=20 Tirtagangga, then Culik, Amed and around to Kusambi and the Floating = Palace at=20 Ujung. If you turn left after Culik and before Amed you will be on the = north=20 east coast road through Tulamben (scuba and diving just off the = beach), the=20 beach salt panning at Tianyar, the very spectacular waterfalls near = the=20 village of Les, past the seaside temples of Pura Pojok Batu and Pura = Beji=20 before reaching the old Dutch capital of Bali at Singaraja and then = the black=20 sand beaches of touristy Lovina. If you are a waterfall fan take the = Jagaraja=20 road just east of Singaraja to the village of Lemukih. Great falls and = great=20 views down to the ocean where the placid Bali Sea becomes the deep and = dividing Lombok Strait.

  24. Look for great=20 massage options on Jl Hanoman. Bali Healing is special amongst them. = At Bugar=20 Schat on Jl Hanoman you might find Gede whom one tourist describes as = being as=20 knowledgeable as her body therapy lecturers in Oz. Rp65,000. =

  25. Go cycling.=20 There are tours which transport you up the mountain, usually towards=20 Kintamani, and you freewheel almost all of the way down, followed by = 'Tail End=20 Charlie' in a pick-up truck if you get saddle sore. See rice fields = close up,=20 talk to farmers, see children in their villages, enjoy real Balinese = food. Try=20 Baik Bali which regularly gets good reviews.

DRIVERS.

Agung Suta=20 Wibara, (***) Ubud.

Nyoman=20 Swastika works a bit up the lane from the Adhi Dharma = Hotel.

Nyoman.=20 Evening phone 980 027.

Gusti=20 Ngurah Saustika. Home 0361 941 536 or in front of Champlung Sari Hotel.=20 Excellent English.

Nyoman=20 (Norm) Suastika, 0361 980 027 (home) or 081 338 701 962 for his mobile. = nyomansuastika@yahoo.com.=20

Made Murna=20 will drive you to any place on the island. He can generally be found at = the=20 Wayan Tourist Service on Monkey Forest Road in Ubud (Ph (0361) 973 275 = to leave=20 a message). His own phone is (0818) 358 518.

Kadek Ana.=20 081 2391 8685 Rp100,000 / day. Clean vehicle.

Wayan=20 Subawa. Safe and honest driver & guide. Email wayansubawa@hotmail.com.=20

Putung=20 Arnawa. Good English, patient, honest &punctual. putuarnawa@hotmail.com.=20

Putu Araya. 081=20 2394 7208.

PEOPLE.

Victor Mason is a = world renowned=20 naturalist who lives in relative seclusion in Ubud with his dog Nimrod. = If=20 you=92re interested in the birds and the bees and butterflies you might = be able to=20 connect with one of his tours.

ACCOMMODATION. (Standard)=20

The = villages of=20 Camphuan (Also 'Tjamphuan' or 'Champhuan' ), Penestanan and Nyuhkunning = are very=20 close to Ubud and not so 'touristy'. This perhaps make stay or just a = visit to=20 them even more desirable.

  1. Bucu View=20 Bungalows =96 end of Jl Bisma, Ubud.

  2. Gusti 2, Ubud=20 Bali Coconut Hotel, Ubud.

  3. Honeymoon=20 Bakery and Guesthouses (on Jl Bisma =96 off the main street), Ubud. =

  4. Alia Ubud is=20 the new name for the Chedi Hotel, good accommodation, good food. =

  5. At Permuteran =96=20 Taman Selini hotel, Matahari also.

  6. Four Seasons=20 Sayan, o/looks river Ayung(?). $$$$

  7. Alam Jiwa, 10=20 min walk south of Monkey Forest. $70/night for 2 including breakfast. = Very=20 friendly staff. Country style location by stream and rice fields. Good = breakfasts. Staff provide ride into Ubud. Alaminda@indosat.net.id =

  8. Klub = Kokos. Kris=20 & Cathy (Aussie ex-pat) Sudharsarna. http://www.klubkokos.com/. 7 = spotless,=20 light, airy, 2 bedroom bungalows in the rice fields near Bangkiang = Sidem=20 village a short stroll from Ubud. Good R&R but a little out of the = way if=20 you are an instantaneous shopper. Salt chlorinated pool. Income = supports=20 the local community. US$64/night for the family bungalow. The walk = into Ubud=20 is along the ridge between the two rivers and is spectacular and = rural.=20

  9. Ananda = Cottages.=20 Great atmosphere. More like a little village in the rice fields than a = hotel.=20 Upstairs rooms extra $10 a night. Large bedroom and bathroom. Local = fauna just=20 outside your windows. Bamboo blinds and mozzie nets over the beds. = Watch the=20 fireflies in the rice fields at night. A hotel guide will conduct you = on a=20 rice field walk if you=92re interested. Nice but a 20 minute walk up = and down=20 hill to get anywhere.

  10. Pande Permai,=20 Monkey Forest Road. Rp200,00 for older rooms, Rp500,000 for the new = ones. 7=20 min walk to Monkey Forest, 10 min to Ubud markets with shops all the = way.=20

  11. Puri Duwur=20 Abing. 4 villas. US$70/night. Including breakfast. Contents of the bar = fridge=20 are cheap! Komang Sugi (Ph 081 2392 8228 or ask the villa staff to = contact her=20 for you) comes for massage. Trained in Holland. Fall into bed and = sleep when=20 she=92s finished. The owners will take you with them when they go = shopping and=20 advise you of the best shops for particular items you might want. Puriduwur_abing@yahoo.com. =

  12. Hotel Tjampuhan=20 Hotel and Spa, nice surroundings but very up and down hill. Free = breakfast,=20 shuttle bus available day & night. River spa grotto is a must. = A/C.=20 Beautiful grounds. Good staff. Good breakfasts. Flowers on your bed at = night.=20 Nice pool with plenty of good pool towels always on hand. Ask for a = fridge in=20 the room if there is not one and you might be lucky. Stunning views = and=20 friendly but not everything works all the time. Not cheap and no = bargaining=20 accepted.

  13. Puri Saraswati.=20 Close to the market/palace.

  14. Artini 3 Hotel.=20 Nice country views, clean well-kept gardens and pool, honest and = friendly=20 staff, comfortable rooms. Rp 150-250,000 depending on season. Massage = next=20 door at Zen.

  15. Maya Ubud=20 Resort. 5*. Superb architecture. Deluxe room US$128/night with full = buffet=20 breakfast (hard bargaining + low occupancy). Better than the more = recognised=20 5*=92s. In the edge of the forest close to the river. Infinity pool = will take=20 your breath away. Do the village trek while you=92re there. =

  16. Yulia = Hotel. No=20 bargaining. Rp200,000. About 200 metres from the soccer pitch on = Monkey Forest=20 Road. 19 rooms only, family run.  Comfortable, friendly, value.=20 Australian booking office in Perth - 9296 1745 and ask for=20 Julia.

  17. Villa Raya (or=20 Rasa?) Sayang (opposite Yulia Hotel) now renovated (=9203). About = halfway up=20 Monkey Forest Road. Two large rooms Rp 250,000/night. Excellent pool = and=20 gardens. Good food. A/C a bit temperamental but fast ceiling fan keeps = things=20 comfortable.

  18. Pertiwi = Hotel.=20 Large. US$110-70, A/C and breakfast. Nice hotel and nice staff. Maybe = not the=20 best value in what is really a high priced town for accommodation. = Adjoining=20 rooms can be noisy. Unhappy travelles in '07.

  19. Bali Spirit=20 hotel. About 1 Km out of Ubud centre to the north. Great staff but = full of=20 gecko's! They're everywhere and not just the little ones either. They = seem to=20 love warm beds. Lots of steps to the family villas. Nice pool. A bit = far away=20 from the action and you have to rely on the shuttle bus which is not = always=20 convenient.

  20. Ubud Village=20 Hotel. Clean, friendly staff, nice pool. $70/night for second floor, = king size=20 bed, o/door bathroom. We found it a little tired in =9204, the pool = bar was not=20 open, pool towels were hard to get, our bathroom needed a good scrub, = the area=20 around the toilet became a knicker-soaking pool if the shower sprayed = too far,=20 the curtain cord grips were broken and the potted plants very sick, = and the=20 asking price of US$72 had little resemblance to the price of Aus$69 = quoted in=20 the Venture Holidays booklet. Even protracted bargaining and much = finger=20 pointing at the booklet only brought the price down to US$78. The = restaurant=20 and the breakfast were good and it is very centrally located about = halfway up=20 (or halfway down) Monkey Forrest Road. This is contrary to a report in = June=20 '04 when walk-in rates were good. Maybe knowing the managers Gus Oka = or Dayu=20 makes a difference?
    There is also a new Ubud Village Hotel a little = way out=20 of town, about a 5 min drive. Fairly new in '06

  21. Since we found=20 Adi's Cottages on the opposite side of the road and down hill a bit = from the=20 Ubud village it has become our much preferred lodgings in Ubud. =

  22. Santi = Mandala=20 Resort villas south of Ubud towards Sukawati. Still under construction = (=9204).=20 Great rooms and incredible views over the valley from your veranda. = Huge=20 mosquito nets over the bed =96 so romantic. http://www.santimandalaresort= .com/. =20 Available for $57/night including breakfast instead of $242 in = mid =9204.=20

  23. The Puri-Indah=20 has fallen on bad times since the Australian managers left in =9202 or = =9203. It=20 is best avoided for all sorts of reasons including security, honesty = and=20 value. Generally not now handled by Australian tour operators. =

  24. Ketut=92s Place=20 in Ubud (turn right at the palace when coming from the south and its = about 1Km=20 on the right past the Suci Inn which is about halfway) regularly gets = good=20 reviews from travellers looking to get a little closer to the life and = culture=20 of the Balinese but still want quality accommodation. Ketut=92s = feasts, eaten=20 with the family, are a highlight of the stay. The super deluxe rooms = which=20 overlook the river valley are particularly good.  =

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Cheap)

  1. Our favourite now is = Adi Cottages,=20 right in the middle of Monkey Forest Road, you couldn't be more = central in=20 Ubud. We've seen quite a few places on the low side of expensive but = in this=20 place we're too embarrassed at the low asking price to bargain any = more. The=20 rooms are clean and nice with great storage. The lighting is a bit dim = as it=20 is in all places up to 3* but ask for bigger globes at the desk, = particularly=20 for the central light and the bedside lamps. The pool is perfect with = a=20 chilled Hatten's Alexandria and some nibbles at the end of a long day. = You can=20 make yourself a tea or coffee at poolside if you'd prefer. Staff are = great and=20 will bend over backwards to make your stay a happy one. Set back just = a little=20 from the street its nice and quiet if you want an early night or an = afternoon=20 nap. Cisa restaurant right next door is where you'll have the included = standard Indo breakfast and wander just up the street to Lamak for = lunch or=20 just down the street to any one of a number of great little = restaurants for=20 dinner. Lord, how I wish I was there now!

  2. The Ubud Terrace is on = the lower=20 end of Monkey Forest Road. http://www.monkeyfi= restubud.com/ubudterrace/=20 .

  3. Heritage=20 Champlung Sari Hotel. Mid range. Good value. Rooms in the 2 story = block at the=20 top are not so good. 975 418. Heritage International Group. Renovated = in=20 =9203-04. Very central location.

  4. Rona=92s=20 Losman, Jl Tebasysa, UBUD. $10?

  5. The Tegal=20 Sari is owned by locals and run by locals. , Ubud. *** From Rp125,000 = per room=20 + 50,000 for third bed. Rp200,000 with A/C, hot showers, tea/coffee, = breakfast=20 included. Pool & pool bar. Deluxe rooms 10 or 12 are highly = recommended,=20 not so the some of the standard rooms. =91A hidden gem.=92 Set back = off the road,=20 only a dozen or so rooms & bungalows with rice fields front & = back.=20 Watch the ducks at work. Pleasant and helpful staff. Pool. =91Cooking = classes=20 coming soon=92 =96 =9204. Just past the bottom of Monkey Forest Road = close to=20 restaurants and shops. 10 min walk to central Ubud. Transport provided = into=20 the centre of Ubud at request. Supermarket nearby, also shops, = restaurants and=20 bars. Try Buddy=92s Bar just around the corner. http://www.tegalsari-ubud.com/.=20 Phone (62-361) 973 318. Some problems with in room safes in =9204. = Check the=20 operation carefully.

  6. Yulia=20 Village Inn, Ubud. Budget, clean, A/C, great location. =

  7. Bucu View=20 Bungalows =96 end of Jl Bisma, Ubud.

  8. Gusti 2,=20 Ubud

  9. Pande=20 Permai at bottom end of Monkey Forest Road. Pool. Basic caf=E9. = Monkeys in trees=20 by balconies.

  10. Avoid=20 Siti Bungalows. Plain dirty and they want top dollar deposit too!=20

  11. Taman=20 Harum. In Mas. Shuttle bus will take you anywhere at any time. Nice = outdoor=20 bathrooms and balcony overlooking rice fields.

  12. Sanias=20 House Bungalows. Jl. Karna 7 Ubud 80571, Bali. Ph (0361) 977255. = Beware the=20 pet monkey! Rp80,000 per night without bargaining. Nice small = pool. Free=20 tea thermos. Hot showers, fan, queen size bed. 200 paces to the main = street=20 and the markets.

  13. Bali Asli=20 Lodge. 15 min walk from Ubud. Set in serene rice fields as a separate = building=20 separated from a typical Balinese home. Lodge has all mod-cons to = European=20 standards. Courtyard privacy, double bedroom, bathroom with hot = water. =20 baliaslilodge@hotmail.com. = The=20 owners will provide real Balinese food.

  14. Graha=20 Ubud, on Monkey Forest Road.

  15. Ketut=92s=20 Place. Very cheap. Straight on from the Monkey Forest/market area.=20

  16. Roma=20 Roda. A small Homestay with restaurant attached above a clothing = museum just=20 off the main street.

  17. The Panorama=20 Hotel is in the middle of rice fields. There is a good public = restaurant where=20 you can get a great Expresso.

  18. Sama's Cottages=20 are just off the main road through Ubud, amidst lush farming = vegetation with=20 the sound of rushing river waters in the distance. About 10 minutes = walk from=20 the palace/market intersection. Family owned for 20+ years it is a = peaceful=20 haven with good hot water supplies, ceiling fans, cooked breakfast and = attentive owners. Rp150,000.

  19. Puri Dalem=20 Cottages on Jl Hanoman No73. Restaurant has Chinese and European = menus. Pool.=20 Room service, A.C., hot water, Laundry service, Satellite TV, IDD = phone, Mini=20 bar. Rp350,000/night

  20. If you're=20 looking to get away to the peace and quiet try Sideman, a little = village a bit=20 north and west of Candi Dasa, in the foothills. An artists haven with = an=20 atmosphere to be shared by all as long as not too many hear about it. = Try=20 Villa Cepik run by Ida. Excellent food and laundry service. Only two = villas,=20 one beautiful pool and acres of serene gardens and rice fields. The = small=20 villa US$25 and the larger US$35 ('06). Ph 081 2364 7384. For more = info have a=20 look at Mic's site - http://micbali.proboards21.com/index.= cgi?board=3Dtirta&action=3Ddisplay&thread=3D1149738070.=20 or http://www.bali-reisen-priv= at.ag.vu/=20 .

  21. Gusti Garden=20 Bungalows  was not recommended by unhappy travellers in April = '07.=20

# = 7=20 - BEDUGUL DISTRICT = SECTION.

For the=20 story and photos of a day trip from Tuban/Kuta through Bedugul and on to = Singaraja and Lovina on the north coast, click on this link - http://www.filosbali.= net/PicsNorth2000.htm.

SHOPPING.

Bedugul is=20 about at the centre of the market garden area of Bali. Exotic = fruits and=20 spices, tobacco, vegetables and all sorts of other produce are available = from=20 roadside stalls and local markets. You=92ll often need additional = clothes up here=20 in the mountains.

As you go=20 further north through the mountains you will pass through forests of = marvellous=20 timber trees =96 but it=92s not easy to get it home.

The Bedugul=20 Markets have flowers and vegetable produce, of course, but also a = surprising=20 variety of sarongs, baskets, jewellery and other stuff which is just a = bit=20 different from the southern tourist markets. The market area and the = goods=20 themselves seem a bit cleaner than you might expect from those down = south. An=20 interesting local wholesale market (where the traveller is more than = welcome)=20 just north of Pacung, on the left of the road, is very cheap for = vegetables,=20 fruit and rice including the red and black varieties. There is even a = hardware=20 shop there and a manufacturing jeweller in the row of stalls at the=20 back.

It is=20 difficult to change traveller=92s cheques in Bedugul, impossible in = Pacung a bit=20 south of Bedugul. Make sure that you have cash in your home currency or = in rupia=20 and be aware that the exchange rate might be up to 5% lower than in the=20 south.

EATING.

  1. The = Pacung Indah=20 (run by Aussie ex-pats David and Moira) provides good food for = tourists and a=20 separate local menu for local drivers. It is on the right side of the = road=20 when going north towards Lovina/Singaraja. The views are spectacular = from=20 either restaurant and also from the accommodation adjoining the dining = room of=20 the Indah, particularly the toilet! The main accommodation is walled = in and=20 regrettably does not allow you to enjoy the spectacular view down the = valley=20 to the south. Be aware of the similarly named place on the opposite = side of=20 the road where the accommodation is much better but the food is pricey = and=20 terrible.

  2. Pacung = Mountain=20 Resort is on the left as you go up the mountain from the south. Their=20 accommodation is good and in 2004 our room was the cleanest we had in = all our=20 tour. The small pool is clean and refreshing. There is an inclined = lift, the=20 =91inclinator=92, which will take you down into the valley from the = old Dutch part=20 of the hotel. It is electrically driven today but I=92m told that the = original=20 was an open platform connected by a rope to water buffalo that tramped = across=20 the rice fields in the valley, lifting or lowering the anxious Dutch = ladies=20 seated primly on chairs from the dining room and clutching their = parasols in=20 one hand and excited children in the other. The Resort restaurant = where you=20 can get thankfully small serves of terrible tasting but high priced = food is=20 right opposite that of the Pacung Indah on the right of the road which = is a=20 better place to eat.

  3. Perma=20 Teahouse, Candikuning. Near Ulu Danu temple.

  4. Kamandalu Restaurant at the Handara Golf = Club.=20

  5. Good = fruit markets,=20 vegetables, hot corn long the road and at the local markets. Remember = if you=20 can peel it you can safely eat it.

  6. Strawberry Stop for=20 sweet snacks. Rp 25,000 / kilo. Red, huge, juicy and tasty. Eat them = like=20 peanuts and want for more.

  7. Ashanti = Hotel.=20 Before the lake at Bedugul (coming from Kuta). Cheap but good and = remarkable=20 views.

  8. Ngireng = Ngewedang=20 Restaurant up in the mountains above Bedugul on the edge of the = village of=20 Munduk. Go north from Bedugul and turn left around the top of the twin = lakes=20 Buyan and Tamblingan towards the beautiful and peaceful Munduk Falls. = On an=20 impossibly tight hairpin bend to the right you will see a small car = park on=20 the left and the restaurant on the opposite side of the road. They = also make=20 their own coffee here, from beans through roasting and crushing by = hand to=20 blending of the Robusta and Arabica varieties. There is a villa if you = want to=20 stay in this splendid isolation. http://www.ngiringngwedang.com/<= /A>.=20

DRINKING.

  1. Cracker=92s Bar is=20 an Australian Sport Bar in the Bedugul Markets (run by David of Pacung = Indah)=20 with a better set of toilet facilities than you will ever find at any = Aussie=20 sports ground. It is located at the very back left corner of the = Bedugul=20 Markets. These are sometimes called the candi Kuning markets. =

VISITING.

  1. Great = views of=20 forests, rice fields and market gardens at many points along the road. =
  2. Good = fruit,=20 vegetable and flower market a little south of Bedugul (or Candi = Kuning), just=20 north of Pacung. Also spices in bulk and in sealed packs which = impressed the=20 quarantine folk.
  3. Lake = Bratan - Ulun=20 Danu Temple =96 What a pity there is a camp with LOUD speakers on the = bank and=20 speedboats. Along with the worlds LOUDEST public address system at the = local=20 mosque you will frequently hear Bedugul well before you get there. At = these=20 times it may be best to just pass through.=20
  4. Lake = Tamblingan=20 and Lake Buyan, the twin lakes north west of the more popular Lake = Bratan.=20 Surrounded by 1000-year-old jungle. Trekking = and=20 fishing. On the up-mountain side there are little tables and seats on = the side=20 of the road with great views if the clouds don=92t descend around your = head.=20 There is a small emerald coloured pond (can hardly call it a lake) = right=20 between the two lakes. Although the original lake was divided by a = lava flow=20 many years ago the lava is porous and water can seep from one lake to = the=20 other.
  5. Botanical Gardens.=20 Extensive and varied. It is a good hike over some of the steep = terrain. Some=20 of the signage could be better.=20
  6.  Within the=20 Botanical Gardens is the fairly new and spectacular Bali Treetops = Adventure=20 Park. Climb amongst the clouds but don't try to fly amongst the = birds.=20
  7. East of = Munduk,=20 views to Lakes Buyan & Tamblingan. Munduk waterfalls west of Lake=20 Tamblingan =96 better than Git Git. Take your swimmers to chill out in = the=20 spray. Unspoiled and peaceful. Good toilets at the bottom.
  8. Git Git = Falls or=20 Gitgit Falls. There are several actually, all magical, mystical = and =20 misty. Take your bathers to chill off in the pool under the main falls = near=20 the restaurant. [It can be a 2 hour trip from Kuta =96 but you = will make it=20 longer because you will want to stop and see all the different things = along=20 the way.] It=92s a long and steep climb back from the falls (are there = really=20 205 steps and landings?) with lots of sellers to offer you rest - and = the=20 chance to buy their wares in return! 2 Km further up the hill = closer to=20 the south by a very sharp left turn and about =BD Km off the road down = a good=20 dirt road are better multi-tier falls by a little car park. Cross over = several=20 bamboo foot bridges and refresh at a little shop. There is a toilet = here also.=20 Swim at either falls.
  9. Sunsets! = Kalaspa=20 Health Resort =96 views.
  10. Pupuan is on a western alternative road back = to south=20 from Lovina via Sererit. Turn off to the left at the village of = Mayong=20 heading towards Antosari and Tabanan instead of going via the twin = lakes north=20 of Bedugul. Great rice terraces and scenery. At Tabanan you'll find = the Subak=20 Museum devoted to water, irrigation and rice growing.=20 Fascinating.=20
  11. The war = museum of=20 Margarana in the village of Marga is off to the left as you go up to = Bedugul,=20 about 10-15 Km west of Denpasar. The main monument is to Lt. Col. I = Gusti=20 Ngurah Rai, famed Balinese commander. The monuments to the individual=20 soldiers, killed in a final battle against the Dutch attempts to = re-colonise=20 Bali in 1946 after WW II, are a spectacular sight, as is the memorial = wall=20 where they are all named. Despite the Dutch commander using air = support Ngurah=20 Rai refused to surrender and to the last man his troops were = slaughtered,=20 ending an action which rallied even reticent Balinese against their = now=20 defined enemy. A neatly tended museum, surrounded by moats and fish = ponds, is=20 really very interesting but mouldering. Such a pity that irreplaceable = history=20 is set up but then left to rot and fade. Ask the attendant who = collects your=20 donation to open it up for you. Don=92t be fooled by the racks of = rifles; they=20 are all paper mache replicas.
  12. If you = can get=20 across to Mengwi on your way back south stop to visit one of the most = serene=20 temple setting in all of Bali - unless it's a public holiday. Pura = Taman Ayun=20 is surrounded by a broad moat which encloses a broad grassed courtyard = complete with lily ponds. The stone wall around the temple proper is = entered=20 through a huge candi bentar up a steep flight of steps. The merus = (multi=20 roofed shrines) are in the centre of this spectacular setting. Dating=20 originally from way back in 1634, the temple was rebuilt 200 years = later in=20 1937.=20
  13. Traditional=20 ceremonial sarongs are made from songket, beautifully woven with = delicate gold=20 threads. The cloth is woven in the small village of Belayu (sometimes = called=20 Blayu by the Balinese who tend to drop non-essential letters - as in = Lake=20 Beratan or Lake Bratan.) Belayu is between Mengwi and Marga. =

DOING.

  1. The=20 mountain scenery with its lush green forests in deep and steep valleys = is=20 spectacular.  There are water activities available on Lake Bratan = and=20 world-class golf courses.
    Visit the reptile park between Lake = Bratan and=20 Git Git falls. The unintentionally funny magician makes the stop worth = while.

  2. From=20 Bedugul, if you are travelling on north to the coast, the common route = is=20 directly north (well, almost) to Singaraja and then west to Lovina. An = alternative route, different and more interesting in some ways if = you=92ve seen=20 the twisting roads and the forests through the mountains often enough, = is to=20 turn left about 8-10 Km north of Bedugul and go north west from = Wanagiri, past=20 the now divided lakes of Buyan and Tamblingan (separated many years = ago by a=20 lava flow) and on to the coastal town of Seririt. From Seririt you can = turn=20 left again along the spectacular coastal road bordered by the sea on = one side=20 and the mountain cliffs on the other, through the emerging tourist = village of=20 Permuteran (see the Western = Bali=20 District section below if this area interests you) and on to the = fabulous=20 snorkelling/diving spot of Meniangan Island on the far north west = coast close=20 to the Java ferry departure point at Gilimanuk, or turn right and go = east to=20 Lovina. This route is only a little further than the commonly used = route=20 directly north from Bedugul but you will pass through what might be = described=20 as one of the garden districts of Bali, seeing exotic fruits such as = the=20 revered or reviled Durian, coffee, corn, coconuts and vineyards = growing wine=20 grapes for local wine production.

  3. Venture=20 high in the trees of the Botanical Gardens=92 Bali Treetop Adventure = Park.=20 http://www.balitreetop.com/=20

  4.  

DRIVERS. - There are no taxis or hire cars in Bedugul or = Pacung=20 which is a few kilometres south, unless you are lucky enough to hail = someone=20 returning south after making a drop off here or further north in = Singaraja or=20 Lovina. There are Perama shuttle busses that pass (you need to know the=20 timetable) and fascinating local Bemos that run more frequently. If you = are=20 staying for some time you could make prior arrangements with a driver = from Ubud=20 or further south, perhaps the driver who brought you here, to pick you = up at a=20 particular place and time.

  1. I = Made Dana,=20 Ubud, 978 268, 973 245, or 081 238 045 04

  2. Dewa Morvin,=20 081 2394 1022. Ubud.

PEOPLE.

 

ACCOMMODATION. (Standard)=20 =96 If you are planning = to stay=20 overnight in this district be aware that it can get uncharacteristically = cold=20 for a tropical paradise.

  1. Sacred=20 Mountain Retreat, Lake Bratan.

  2. Pacung=20 Indah, in the village of Pacung near Bedugul is highly recommended as = a=20 quality Hotel. Run by ex-pat Aussies no detail seems to be too small = to=20 overlook. It is a small boutique place with friendly staff, = enthusiastic=20 owners/managers on site, breathtaking views and top-class rooms and=20 food. Breakfast (which is included in the room rate) has to be = seen to be=20 believed. Great for romantic get-aways or just for relaxing. Probably = not the=20 best place for active and curious young children. Look for the = roadside sign=20 with the kangaroo.

  3. Pacung=20 Resort Ph 21 038. 9km south of Bedugul. Luxurious, great views.=20

  4. Bedugul=20 Hotel Ph 226 593. Bungalows look down on Lake. Reasonable rates.=20

  5. Ngireng=20 Ngewedang Villa at the coffee plantation and restaurant on the edge of = Munduk=20 village. Splendid isolation. www.ngiringngewedang.com. =

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Cheap)

Ashram=20 Hotel Ph 22 439. Rooms or bungalows. Bathrooms shared.

Bukiy=20 Mungsu Indah, Baturiti. Neat rooms with fireplaces, some look onto = Botanic=20 Gardens.

# 8 -=20 LOVINA/SINGARAJA DISTRICT=20 SECTION.

Lovina,=20 more correctly Lovina Beach, is a strip development along the coast road = from=20 Singaraja through Seririt and on to Gilimanuk. There is a nice simple = map of the=20 heart of the strip at http://www.rambutan.org/m= aps/index.htm.=20

There are=20 no direct public transport services from the south but a taxi should = cost only=20 about Rp250,000 for the trip. Another option is to get a taxi from the = airport=20 to the Ubung bus terminal in Denpasar and take the Perama (timetables at = www.peramatour.co) bus to Lovina for Rp60,000. Bemos also run the route = but you=20 would need to change a couple of times. It=92s a cheap and interesting = way to=20 travel if you=92re not in a hurry and like meeting locals on sections of = the=20 trip.

Beginning=20 about 5 Km from Singaraja in the district of Anturan Lovina merges into = the=20 districts of Kalibukbuk and then Temikus, over about 6 Km. Much of the = area=20 nearest Singaraja is separated from the Bali Sea by up to a kilometre of = rice=20 fields and plantations but the western end goes almost along the beach. = Most of=20 the hotels are on the sea side of the main road as you might expect, = either with=20 sea frontages or on the few short side streets that lead to the beach.=20

What you=20 might not expect is the quality of some of the restaurants. The fusion = of foods=20 from all over the world is created by the people who seem to have come = from all=20 over the world, and the quality is nothing short of remarkable.=20

The seaside=20 at Lovina has black sand, (well dark grey really) and the sea is very = calm and=20 shallow. Ideal for swimming and snorkelling as its warm, and for = children as=20 it=92s shallow.

Lovina is=20 not a rocking nightclub place but more alive than Candi Dasa and Amed = put=20 together and there is a Planet Lovina and other riotous places around = the centre=20 of the action in Jl Pantai Binaria.

Singaraja=20 is not a tourist town but is an interesting place to wander in if = you=92re curious=20 about the Dutch heritage of the area, the old sea port, and the=20 museum.

A nice day=20 trip is to Gilimanuk along the coast to the west. Gilimanuk is the ferry = port to=20 Java and is very busy. It=92s a fascinating place to sit and watch the = rows of=20 ferries going and coming. Along the way you will pass three hotels. If = you=92re a=20 bit up-market, stop and have a look over the Hotel Matahari. If you fly = into the=20 Ngurah Rai airport in the south and don=92t fancy a long car trip up = there they=92ll=20 come down and pick you up in their helicopter or float plane for a small = consideration. Be warned though that this is probably not a place where = you=20 should anticipate bargaining over their rates =96 though you might feel = like it=20 when you see them!

For the=20 story and photos of a day trip from Tuban/Kuta through Bedugul and on to = Singaraja and Lovina on the north coast, click on this link - http://www.filosbali.= net/PicsNorth2000.htm=20 .

Have a look=20 also at http://www.wonderfulbali.com/.=

Singaraja=20 was the capital of Bali during the time of Dutch colonial rule. It was = then=20 known as Buleleng and is still called this by older Balinese at times. = Dutch=20 style is apparent in the architecture and the layout of the town. The = central=20 sea front has a well known heroic statue of the soldier who first = spotted the=20 invading ships coming into the harbour. Another well known statue is of = the=20 winged horse statue that I think celebrates the declaration of = independence for=20 Indonesia. Perhaps the most famous of the local statues is of the = dolphin in=20 Binaria Square, the central square of Lovina at the end of Binaria = street -=20 where else?

Three roads=20 lead to Lovina. The central route almost directly north through Bedugul = (visit=20 the market for fruit, particularly strawberries, vegetables, flowers and = spices)=20 and Lake Bratan is the shortest. A good road but usually very busy = because of=20 this.
At the top of the mountains you can turn left (west) past the = divided=20 lakes Buyan and Tamblingan, then right to Selat. An interesting = little=20 detour can be made through Munduk if you don=92t take the earliest right = turn.=20 Just before the Munduk Falls you can visit a working coffee plantation = and=20 sample some Ngireng Ngewedang, amongst the best coffee in Bali at a = small eatery=20 and villa with a magnificent view from 1500 meters above sea level. The = road has=20 some very steep descents that come with magnificent views of Lovina, the = Bali=20 Sea and even Java. There is less traffic on this road because it is not = so good=20 but there are excellent photographic opportunities. This route takes = about 2.5=20 hours, depending on how after you stop. A little further on from the = Selat=20 turn-off you will find another through Tabanan and via Pupuan which is = about 20=20 minutes longer if you don=92t stop to admire some of the best rice = terracing in=20 Bali.
The third route is towards the west through Tabanan then turn = off to=20 Puputan. Recommended for photographers.

A longer=20 route (app 3.5 hours total driving time) even further to the east is via = Ubud=20 and Kintamani, an active volcano. There are many tour buses on this road = and=20 some savagely persistent hawkers. Do not stop at Penelokan, go on = further where=20 they are fewer and the views are as good.

For a full=20 description of the alternative routes see http://www.balitra= velforum.com/msg/79423.html , updated at www.balitravelforu= m.com/msg/24834.html,=20 written by Richard H, a local who offers accommodation at the Rambutan = Beach=20 Cottages. http://www.rambutan.org/ phone=20 0362 41388.

Now, ('07), I=20 think there is a fourth viable route to the north. Although the east = coast route=20 is one that will take the best past of a full day, the near completion = of the=20 south east coast 'freeway' means that the drive through Kusamba and = Padang Bai=20 to Candi Dasa is much quicker than in the past. From Candi Dasa the = route goes=20 through Amlapura, Tirtagganga, amazing rice terraces, Culik, the last = still very=20 bare lava flows from Mt Agung and Tulumben before Singaraja and Lovina. = Its not=20 a quick way but it goes through some of the less-visited and therefore = perhaps=20 more interesting parts of the island and I'll be surprised if you don't = discover=20 a few places where you'll want to return and spend quiet = days.

From Kuta a=20 driver will take you to Lovina/Singaraja and come back to pick you up = again for=20 Rp 600, to 800,000 !! If you only get a one way ride to Lovina from = Kuta it=20 is about Rp250,000. There is plenty of transport in Lovina and a driver = will=20 take you back to Kuta for only about Rp150 to 200,000. If you want to = keep your=20 driver from the south they will often sleep in their vans for a night or = two.=20 Many restaurants along the way will feed your driver as a reward for = bringing=20 you there.

The trip by=20 road to Amed along the north east coast from Lovina is about 2.5 hours = =96 3 to=20 Candi Dasa. Cost will be about Rp100,000. Amed hotel drivers will come = and pick=20 you up in Lovina. It is an interesting drive through the surprisingly = numerous=20 small villages with great views over the sea and towards the inland = mountains,=20 particularly from Culik to Candi Dasa. The road is narrow but good. = Taking the=20 local Perama bus is and experience but so cheap.

** Beware=20 of temporary tattoos. Many people have severe = reactions to=20 the chemical cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, = and which=20 is toxic and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in = children with=20 recent reports saying that one in five children will be = effected.=20 The scars after blistering may be permanent and flare up at times of = stress.=20 Refer to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html .=20 Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief but would you want = to be=20 doing this for the rest of your life - or condemn your children to = this???=20
Researchers in Germany have also uncovered a link between temporary = tattoos=20 and permanent, lifelong dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). = Sufferers=20 remain allergic to some metals, detergents and foods FOR LIFE!
** Be = even=20 more careful of permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you un-seal any sterile = equipment=20 and that you see the gun sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes = as these=20 can also transmit Hep C.

 

SHOPPING.

  1. Dewata=20 Supermarket, a little west of Singaraja. Food and cheap=20 clothing.

  2. Hardy=92s=20 in Singaraja. Like a cheaper version of Matahari in = Kuta.

  3. Pearls etc. Shop = opposite Rambutan=20 Cottages in Lovina, 'Tini's'. Tell 'em Momma Colleen sent you.=20

EATING.

Many=20 restaurants in Jl Laviana and the street out of Lovina Central, the = square with=20 the dolphin statue. If you look or ask around you will find an amazing = array of=20 remarkable, quality eateries around Lovina.

  1. Sea=20 Breeze Restaurant, - Lovina. *** Good but getting a bit touristy? = Really bad=20 service 2001? By the dolphin statue.

  2. Warung=20 Bumbu in front of Puri Bagus Hotel.

  3. Katakua=20 (local lingo for Cockatoo, the Aussie parrot type bird, of which there = are=20 indeed two of the rowdy beasts in a cage at the front), Lovina. Near = dolphin=20 statue on Jl Pantai Binaria. Nice atmosphere, good food, very good = prices.=20 Ph(0362) 41144 41344.

  4. Damai,=20 Lovina - *****. Up in the foothills behind Lovina, it s a small hotel = with the=20 very best restaurant open to the public. Get there for sunset drinks = if you=20 can. Free pick up from Lovina too. This place is simply = special!=20

  5. Caf=E9=20 Spice, Lovina

  6. Bali=20 Bintang Restaurant, Lovina

  7. Karina=20 Restaurant not good.

  8. Khi Khi=20 Seafood, ordinary place - nice food.

  9. Malibu,=20 centre of Lovina. Popular =96 reasonable. Sometimes rough! =

  10. Barcelona=20 Rest. Lovina. Good service, food, prices and surroundings. Report of = drunken=20 staff =96 bad service 2001?

  11. Warung=20 Bambu Pemaron, Lovina, between Singaraja and Kalibukbuk. Middle of = rice fields=20 on road to Hotel Puri Bagus. Superb food with exquisite presentation. = App=20 A$6-10. Dance Wed & Sun. Free transport. Ring 27080+31455.=20

  12. Ayditya=20 Beach Bungalows and restaurant, Lovina.

  13. LiAn=20 Seafood. App 200 m from beach. Staff will pick you up & take you = back to=20 your hotel.

  14. Warung=20 Bias, Jl Banyualit. Indo and western. Home made German bread.=20

  15. Mailaku.=20 Excellent Peri Peri prawns, garlic bread and Rijstaffel (=91rice = table=92).=20

  16. Caf=E9=20 Lumbung. On right hand side of road to dolphin statue. =

  17. Kopi=20 Bali.

  18. Rambutan=20 Beach Cottages. Buffet Rp 25,000 with Legong Dance on Sunday & = Wednesday.=20 Also good accommodation. rambutanlovina@hotmail.com= or=20 rambutanlovina@yahoo.com=20 . Hotel=20 web site at http://www.rambutan.org/index.= htm=20 . Hotel phone is 0362 41388.

  19. Avoid=20 Padi Bali.

  20. Kartika=20 Restaurant of Santosa, near Singaraja Night Market.

  21. Biyu=20 Restaurant on main road through Lovina

  22. Spice=20 Caf=E9, Lovina.

  23. Lucky=20 Warung, on the beach, =93- fantastic fish dinner=92. =

  24. Bali=20 Apik.

  25. Bali=20 Kupu.

  26. Bali View=20 Caf=E9. Small on the edge of a small cliff. Great Indo food. =

  27. Lovina=20 Central, try the 3 level restaurant on the left of the only street.=20

  28. Lumbang=20 Caf=E9 near the dolphin statue, Lovina. Good breakfasts but the coffee = is=20 terrible especially since this is Bali, the home of great coffee.=20

  29. Jasmine=20 Kitchen, Binaria Lane, Kalibukbuk, Singaraja. Ph 0362 41565. jasminekitchwn@beeb.net. = Prawns in=20 basil and chilli sauce with rice and Bintang. What a meal! Rp40,000. = Try the=20 lemongrass and coconut ice-cream. Very friendly and helpful = proprietors=20 (English and Balinese.)

  30. After our=20 =9204 visit we can recommend the Octopus=92s Garden on the left of the = main road=20 to Gilimanuk, close to the edge of town. Run by Irfan. Ph0362 42031, = e-mail bintang40@hotmail.com. = Really good=20 food at unbelievably cheap prices. He=92s so confident of his kitchen = staff that=20 there is a big glass window on the street side of the kitchen. You = might=20 further gather the style of the place if I tell you there is Enya=92s = music in=20 his background tapes and he has two Rudolf Bonnet lithographs (amongst = others)=20 on the restaurant walls. I wish their feature lighting was better so = that they=20 could be more appreciated. The Seafood Soup comes brimming in a big = bowl for=20 Rp 10,000. Octopus Carpaccio with vinaigrette overflowed from its bed = of cold,=20 crisp Iceberg lettuce; Rp20,000. As a main course how about stir fried = young=20 corn with mushrooms and vegetables. Rp 10,000 with steamed rice? Or = you could=20 have lightly grilled Mahi Mahi fillet in green cream sauce with = vegetables and=20 fries for Rp30,000. The fish fillet was not from a dwarf of the = species and=20 even the fries were properly double cooked for crispness. Iced coffee, = and it=20 was Bali Coffee, was Rp10,000 and vanilla ice-cream with rum-soaked = raisins on=20 top was Rp8,000.
    Irfan, regrettably, has sold up and joined his = wife in=20 Japan but all is not lost. The restaurant is now owned by a Belgian = who also=20 has one in  Ubud. It's now been re-modelled and is called = Kwizine.=20 Upmarket but with a moderate price range and the excellence of the = food, the=20 wine list, the ambience and the service will amaze you.     =

  31. If you=20 want something different try Kubu Lalang, on the beach close to the = Singaraja=20 side of Lovina. You=92ll need transport to get there as the road (dirt = track)=20 runs through the rice fields between the main road and the beach. = There is a=20 walk of 100 paces or so along the path from the car park to the = restaurant and=20 a torch will help the lighting which is being shaded by the planting = along the=20 edges. The food is worth all this trouble =96 well, its not so much = trouble=20 really. Ph(0062) 362 42207. E-mail kubu-lalang@cu-media.com. = Web-site=20 www.bali-portal.com/kubul= alang/=20 .Not as cheap as others but you need to read the menu to appreciate = what=20 you=92re getting. Just about everything is made on the premises and = the staff=20 are justifiably proud of their work. We had a Minty Misty = non-alcoholic drink=20 and a Sommertime Cocktail pre-dinner. The Minty Mystic was a mixture = of fresh=20 mint (grown in their own herb garden) with fresh lime juice, honey and = soda.=20 It was so refreshing and just a little sweet. Rp8,000. The cocktail = was a=20 blend of brown rum and fresh pineapple juice stirred with coconut = cream and=20 Grenadine. As smooth as silk with a little bite at the end. = Rp24,000.Entrees=20 were Burbur Ikan Sardin, a blend of freshly caught sardines, butter, = lime and=20 parsley served with French style bread from the kitchen ovens. = Rp15,000. It is=20 a pate style spread in a decent size pot, very fishy and very tasty. = 'Tomat=20 Kering' is sun dried tomatoes (guess who dries them) with basil, olive = oil,=20 and marinated green bell peppers with cream cheese sauce and French = style=20 bread. The tomato slices were in stacks of two with a basil leaf and a = very=20 thin slice of garlic between them. The pickled peppers were light and = fresh,=20 almost crisp. The sauce came in three balls about the size of a little = ice-cream or melon scoop. One was plain white, another had been rolled = in the=20 finest chopped spinach I have ever seen and the third had been rolled = in mild=20 chilli dust. Spread on the bread with a slice of tomato and pepper on = top it=20 was a taste delight. Rp 17,000. The Dadar Makenan Laut was lime = turmeric=20 crepes filled with seafood and coconut with a white wine and curry = sauce=20 served with a salad of Chinese Cabbage and pineapple. There were two = large=20 crepes that filled a dinner plate so the salad came in a soup-bowl = size dish=20 as a side serve. If you=92ve had this before in some international = caf=E9 I bet it=20 cost more than Rp 30,000. If you like food then go there! Our only = complaint=20 was that we just could not tackle the deserts which were of the same=20 tantalising calibre.

  32. Warung Bias on=20 Jl Pantai Banyualit is beautiful. First class service and food. =

  33. Warung Waru=20 Bali is nor in the Astina Cottages at the end of Jl Rambutan, near the = beach.=20 Very good 'tourist' local foods.

  34. Up in the=20 hills from Lovina is Ponjok Indah, the winery and restaurant of = Fritz=20 and Ceria in the village of Kayuputih. Kayuputih is out in the = foothills=20 behind Kalibukbuk past the Damai Hotel. The eatery is on one side of = the road=20 and the winery is on the other. You'll probably need a local driver to = find it=20 - but what a find. It's not large, frequently full  and not open = every=20 night so a phone call to book is essential; 362 415 71, and a pick up = and=20 drop-off service is available from the restaurant. The menu is not = extensive=20 but the food and wine at a sunset dinner are glorious. The main course = of=20 steak (or fish) is Rp60,000 ('07) and comes with all the french fries = (potato=20 chips) and salad as you want. After the meal comes a winery tour and = tasting=20 with live entertainment.  The wines are preservative and chemical = free=20 including fruit wines in a range of about a dozen about = Rp80,000/bottle.=20 Remember the stairs that you have to go up afterwards if you=92re = inclined to=20 over-indulge. Early '08 there was one post with a very different=20 opinion.

  35. One of=20 the great cheap eateries in Lovina is Bu Warung. Another friendly = place is=20 Warung Waru Bali.

  36. Rangoon Sunset=20 on the beach front. Meals about Rp15,000 and drinks Rp5,000. Great = value and=20 great evening views.

  37. A = bit up from=20 Rambutan Cottages and on the opposite side there is a fresh bread shop = where=20 you can get lunch and snacks. Try chicken, avocado and mayo = baguettes.=20

  38. In a little=20 lane just off the main road through Lovina is the Funky Monkey. Aussie = owners.=20 Good food and a milkshake that will remind you of home when you were a = kid.

  39. Just next to=20 the Funky Monkey (see above) is a great Thai restaurant called the = Jasmine=20 Kitchen. Save room for a dessert.

  40. On the main=20 road in Kalibukbuk there is a renown German Bakery. It is just eat = (towards=20 Singaraja) from Jl Rambutan. Not only cakes etc but good steak and = other food=20 and also wines.

DRINKING.

  1. Sea=20 Breeze Bar, right on the beach to the left of the Binaria Square which = has the=20 dolphin statue. Play chess with the owner. Some bad reports on food = and=20 service in 2001!?

  2. Sigi=92s=20 Bar, on Zigi=92s Bar, Jl Binaria in central Lovina. Popular with local = youths=20 and tourists. Good cafes nearby.

  3. Planet=20 Lovina. Loud! On the main road a little west of Jl Binaria. New late = 2001.=20 Good live reggae music. Say =91Hi=92 to Mama Gede from Seririt. =

  4. Malibu on=20 the main road just west of Jl Binaria. Live music Saturdays. Stage, = dance=20 floor U/ground disco internet. Usually crowded on Saturdays and some = clients,=20 local and tourists, don=92t behave well.

  5. The Funky=20 Monkey has icy cold beer and great snacks to keep the worms happy = while you=20 watch the world go by.

VISITING.

  1. Git Git=20 Falls, on road towards Lovina. CHEAP shops. Long climb back. (Git Git = - 'G' as=20 in 'Go', 'G' as in 'joke' is unmentionable.)

  2. Munduk=20 Falls on the road to Lovina that runs to the west from Bedugul. You = can also=20 visit a coffee plantation and production works near the falls.=20

  3. Banjar=20 village, hot springs, bathing.

  4. Sing Sing=20 waterfall on way to hot springs.

  5. Yeh Sanih=20 fresh water springs. 15 km east of Singaraja. Perfect for a cooling = swim. Very=20 clear. Restaurant, gardens, sea view.

  6. Beji=20 Temple and the temple at Jacaraga.

  7. Winery=20 and restaurant in the hills above Lovina, Ponjok Indah, in Kayaputih. = German=20 owners. Great food.

  8. Permuteran is=20 along the coast, a lovely village about two thirds of the way towards=20 Gilimanuk. It is a sparse coastline ,but interesting in comparison to = the=20 southern areas. There are some very high class resorts here, ones that = will=20 helicopter you up from Ngurah Rai airport over some spectacular ranges = and=20 coast line. There's not much to do in Permuteran. It's so quiet that = there are=20 not even hawkers on the beach. There are a few ordinary restaurants. = There is=20 a horse riding school, a turtle hatchery, some reef restoration = experiments=20 and local school dances to watch. Menjangan Island is not far away and = there=20 is spectacular diving along the reef there.

  9. The Buddhist=20 Monastery in the foothills close to Lovina. Go with an open mind and = learn a=20 little.

  10. Walk along the=20 seafront of Singaraja. Visit Vihara Seng Hong Bio, the Chinese = mariners temple=20 near the Independence Monument and the river mouth. A fascinating and = still=20 working historic relic of centuries past. Gaze out to sea and imagine = the=20 early days when passenger ships anchored off-shore and Ladies and = Gentlemen=20 with their children were brought to shore in oared lighters. =

  11. Go east from=20 Singaraja, along the north east coast and stop at Pura Meduwi Karang = to wonder=20 at the carving of an early explorer of Bali in the stone wall. The = craftsman=20 had some eye for detail in that he remembered what the bicycle looked = like in=20 general form, but the concept of wheels nearly eluded him. He = remembered that=20 they were round - and so were flowers - so the wheels became the = perimeter of=20 flowers and the spokes became the flower petals.

  12. A = little past=20 the flower cyclist there is Pura Ponjok Batu, literally 'the temple on = the=20 rocky corner'. A temple recalling the same Javanese priest who sited = Pura=20 Rambut Siwi, the well known Pura Tanah Lot and Pura Uluwatu. One of = the=20 current priest guides will tell you the story of the shipwrecked = sailors from=20 Lombok, saved by the magical appearance of a freshwater spring amongst = the=20 stones on the beach where a carved ship now sits on a prominent rock. = Here=20 there is more than lip service paid to the respect shown to the Gods. = A temple=20 sarong and sash are of course needed but perhaps for the first time = you will=20 require a modified tourist purification ceremony before being allowed = into the=20 inner temple grounds. Our friend and driver, Made, will attest to the = potency=20 of the holy water from the spring. The very day after wife K'toot = purified=20 him, the family, the neighbours and the neighbourhood 'as well as the = whole=20 damn warung' Made finally achieved the deposit for his own car. I'm = certain=20 that he will make sure we return there in future. =

DOING.

  1. Ulan Danu=20 Temple & markets at Bedugul, Munduk.

  2. Git Git=20 falls, Lake Bratan, Kintamani, the Hot Springs, Munduk Waterfall = (including=20 the spectacular drive to get there) from Lovina.

  3. Plaga=20 Village, central Bali, waterfalls & hot springs. =

  4. Dolphin=20 Trips at Lovina. Rp 40,000 (2 hrs) per person, 4 to each boat. Great = sunrises=20 from the boats.

  5. Snorkelling, Rp20,000 (2 hrs). Menjangan = Island is a=20 bit further on the westernmost tip of Bali, in the National = Park. Just as=20 far to the east is the Liberty shipwreck at Tulumben. =

  6. Banjar=20 hot springs. Don=92t look too closely at the colour before you = carefully enter.=20 It=92s sulphurous and the steps are VERY slippery but its clean. Take = shampoo=20 for your hair afterwards.

  7. Tamblingan 1000-year-old forest. Serious = hiking! /=20 Lakes Buyan & Tamblingan before Lake Bratan and Bedugul. Rice = terraces at=20 Jatiluwih.

  8. Sing Sing=20 waterfalls.

  9. Les=20 waterfall. Between Lovina and Amed. Les Village waterfall =96 =91best = place in=20 Bali=92. =91Bali=92s highest waterfall". (?). Longish trek =96 1.5 km. = 1:10 incline, a=20 bit at the end 1:5. Les is 28 km south east from Lovina. Contact balibluey@yahoo.com for = pictures and=20 tours.

  10. Lemukih -=20 multiple waterfalls. 25-30 km south east of Lovina. App 25 km south = east from=20 Lovina. If you want a local guide try Bluey, balibluey@yahoo.com. =

  11. Lots of=20 Internet cafes. Outpost Internet Caf=E9, fast, Rp400/min. Connections = slow after=20 11 am.

  12. Watch=20 sunset from Jl Damai, near Pojok Indah restaurant.

  13. Air=20 Sanih, 17K from Singaraja. Cold water springs. Bathing. Restaurant.=20

  14. Mountain=20 Biking. Bali Adventure Tours.

  15. Agung=92s=20 Massage. Jl Damai.

  16. Nightlife. Pocco Bar and Planet Lovina near = the corner=20 of Jl Binaria in Kalibukbuk.

  17. Kutilang=20 Trekking Tours. balibluey@hotmail.com. = Office at Jl=20 Laviana, Banyualit, Lovina. Through the jungles of Lemukih in the = mountains south of Lovina. Isolation on new trails. =

  18. Seririt=20 village, west of Lovina before turning inland towards Munduk. Great = toyshop!=20 The drive here into the mountains is very picturesque and it can get = very=20 cold. Visit Ngireng Ngewedang, a working coffee plantation and nice = restaurant=20 near the very top of the climb just after Munduk Falls. A nice picnic = area is=20 at the top of the climb, with views of the divided lakes Tamblingan = and Buyan.=20 You might even catch a glimpse of the bright azure, tiny third lake = between=20 these two.

  19. Agung's=20 Massage Salon for cr=E8me bath, massage and head = treatment.

  20. Along the=20 north coast try Made Menak (+62 081 747 238 75 if you want to go = fishing.=20 Recommended by Ibu Moire at the Pacung Indah hotel he can be found on = the=20 beach near Puri Bagus in Lovina.

  21. Also for=20 fishing find Robbie, a long-haired Dutchman from Kalibukbuk (he's the = Robbie=20 who rides a motor bike not the one who owns Spice Dive). Can usually = be found=20 by asking at the Sea Breeze restaurant near the Dolphin statue or by = asking at=20 the Rambutan Cottages in Lovina. Robbie will also entertain you with = details=20 of the religious mysticism inherent in the culture and religion of=20 Bali.

DRIVERS.

  1. Ketut=20 Juari, 362-42052. Mob. 08 1239 53118. ketutjuari@hotmail.com . = Mainly=20 Lovina but will pick up anywhere and tour anywhere. Costs more than = most.=20

  2. Bali=20 Bluey balibluey@yahoo.com

  3. Made=20 Menak recommended by =91local=92 Aussies David & Moira =96 www.oneinfinity= .com.au/bali/mademenak.htm=20 .

  4. Our favourite=20 is Komang Yopen who works from a small transport shop opposite the = Rambutan=20 Cottages in Lovina.  E-mail yopen_artawan@yahoo.com or = phone=20 (from overseas) +6281 3383 65761 or from within Bali 081 3383 65761. A = fun=20 young guy who knows the north roads and as far south as Bedugul, = Pacung and=20 Ubud. He'll also pick you up from anywhere in the south or take you = back again=20 from Lovina. You'll know him by the faded Aussie flag stickers on the=20 windscreen behind the passenger sun shield.

  5. From the same=20 'boss'  try Gede Budiasa, or simply 'Buddy'. his number is 081 = 7976=20 8351.

PEOPLE.

  1. Mr Ketut,=20 mrketut@hotmail.com . = Sightseeing.=20

  2. Gloria=92s=20 Crisis Care Centre. Treats local people who cannot access other = services.=20 Relies on donations to exist. At the dolphin statue turn right onto = the road=20 to Gilimanuk. After app =BE Km there is a signpost with a red cross on = it. =96=20 turn left here. If you pass an abandoned yellow Holden car you have = gone too=20 far. About =BE Km further on, past the school on the left, you will = come to the=20 clinic and be welcomed.

  3. Richard, the=20 owner of the very nice Rambutan Cottages will take you to the = Singaraja=20 Orphanage if you ask him. It's a 'feel-good' half day and not as = depressing as=20 some others.

ACCOMMODATION. = (Standard) =20

The = western coast from=20 Lovina/Singaraja is often called the Permuteran area from the name of a = small=20 village about 3/4 of the way to Gilimanuk and about the centre of the = tourist=20 facilities in that area.

  1. Nirwana=20 Beach Cottages Lovina. New ones best of a deteriorating lot. Rats = in=20 adjacent open canal. Breakfast worst ever. Beach hawkers are allowed = onto the=20 property and become a pest. Management does not seem to care. Extras = such as=20 another pillow create major dramas and language. Not recommended.=20

  2. Banyualit=20 Hotel, Jl Laviana. A/C. hot water, pool. Not luxury but reasonable = rates, good=20 restaurant.

  3. Puri=20 Bagus bungalows, Lovina. (Frequently recommended.)  US$110/night = double=20 occupancy. For a local report try www.oneinfinity= .com.au/bali/mademenak.htm.=20

  4. Bamboo=20 Huts on the beach, Rp75,000 per night.

  5. Rambutan=20 Beach Hotel & Cottages, Lovina. (0362) 41388. Clean and well run. = Family=20 owned by Richard, Tini, their children, dogs, ducks, rabbits and = birds. Wide=20 variety of accommodation levels from backpacker + rooms to = Presidential=20 suite.. Their recently renovated web page is at  http://www.rambutan.org/. E-mail = rambutanlovina@hotmail.com= . Two=20 pools. Huge and ornate rooms, particularly the bathrooms. Bigger than = normal=20 bar fridges. Near good restaurants, internet shop and money changer = but=20 expensive food and drink vendors who can=92t count and have no shame. = 5 minute=20 walk to the beach. Transport shop just opposite gate (ask for Komang = Yopen, or=20 e-mail komang_artawan@yahoo.com=20 , he=92s a nice funny guy to travel with). Regularly recommended. Do = your own=20 laundry or take it to the street laundry and insist that it=92s dry = and really=20 ironed before you pay for it. Cottages are run by Richard, citizen of = the=20 world and one-time Aussie but now nailed down by Bali wife Tini, and = two dogs,=20 two rabbits, a Guinea Pig, three ducks (Huey, Louie and Daisy) a white = dove=20 and several other birds as well as the delightful children. He might = still be=20 trying to wean the staff off of the two-lollies-per-day regime they = became=20 used to, and the dogs off cashew nuts or the ducks from chocolate = biscuits on=20 the veranda.

  6. Puri Bali in=20 Lovina. Nice for about A$30/night.

  7. Damai=20 Lovina, US$150++

  8. Kalibukbuk, averages Rp60,000 (includes tax + = breakfast) A/C & hot water, or US$45 to 12. Jl Lovina (?) =96on = beach. Mixed=20 reports, mainly doubtful. www.melkahotel.com.

  9. Pondok=20 Sari Cottages.

  10. Melka=20 Hotel, Jl Lovina. Medium price range. Rp210,000 bargain down to=20 Rp150,000/night. Two minute walk to the beach. Has a small zoo to = entertain=20 the kidz and captive dolphins in the pool.

  11. Nirina=20 Sea Cottages not recommended.

  12. Nirwana=20 II good. 2 min walk to beach A/C Pool.

  13. Ansoka=20 Hotel. Good and convenient. Next to Nirwana but much better.=20

  14. Santai=20 Hotel. Good place, good people, good food.

  15. Bali=20 Taman Hotel, not to be confused with the Bali Taman Resort. = Beachfront, nice=20 pool, 2 suites + bungalows. Good restaurant, not expensive. Watch = safety of=20 valuables/cash.

  16. Sol=20 Lovina. Biggest pool in Lovina? Part of Sol Melia chain. Deluxe rooms = nice but=20 not as =91traditional=92 as some. Villas nice, some with plunge pools. = Beachfront=20 rest. Negotiate up to 60% off rack rate. A bit up-market in general.=20

  17. Juni=20 Artha Hotel. Near Sol Lovina. 5 bungalows with A/C. Under Rp = 100,000/night.=20 Entrance at Jl Laviana.

  18. Further=20 west from Lovina is Taman Selini, Ph 93 449. Bungalows in gardens with = a=20 mountain vista. Pool. Beach restaurant serving Greek and local = cuisine.=20 Snorkel, dive, horse ride. Near Menjangan National Park. =

  19. Zen Body=20 Holiday is 15 km west of Lovina. Only 7 rooms and one of the best = infinity=20 pools!

  20. East of=20 Singaraja, towards Candi Dasa, about 40 minutes on a country road, is = The=20 Agung Bali Nirwana Resort. An idyllic and serene getaway. Only three = 3-bedroom=20 villas facing the ocean. Each has a raised eating bale just outside = and the=20 infinity pool is amazing.

  21. Villa=20 Agung Beach Inn in Lovina. Chatty manager is Nyoman. Villas are on the = beach=20 and are fan cooled which is adequate in this area. Rp100,000 with = breakfast.=20 Good food and views from the restaurant. Good pool.

  22. Bali=20 Taman Resort (not the B T Hotel). Nice place but very out-of-the-way = location,=20 5 km from Lovina. Nothing much nearby.

  23. Hotel Ngurah=20 Lovina. 'Excellent'. Rp220,000 includes breakfast and soft drinks from = the=20 fridge.

  24. Mas Lovina has=20 a 25 metre pool if this attracts you. Its right on the beach. =

  25. Damai resort is=20 very luxurious and sits on the face of the mountain overlooking = Lovina. About=20 5 minutes by car. US$150.

  26. Melka=20 Excelsior. Good for children. Animals, playground on the beach = front.=20

  27. The Mimpi=20 Bungalows at Air Sanih are between Singaraja and Amed along the north = east=20 coast road. With an enormous palm forest and a 5 mile beach which is = swimmer=20 friendly there is also a spa, traditional healer, wedding catering, = pool.=20 Peaceful and a surprising number of things to do. www.mimpibali.com/index.htm. 5%=20 of the property income is dedicated to improving local health = issues.=20

PERMUTERAN.
There are 3 main hotels; = Pondok Sari=20 (US$40 A/C bungalow but no fridge) , Taman Sari (US$50) and the Taman = Selini=20 (US$60). For greater details look up the posting, 'Some info from our = visit last=20 year' at  www.balitravelforu= m.com/msg/20518.html.=20


ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Cheap)

Always inspect=20 before you finalise a deal.

  1. Puri Bagus=20 bungalows, Lovina. They have a room for drivers from the south to = overnight=20 in. US$50/night for a room and breakfast.

  2. Angsoka Hotel,=20 Lovina

  3. Angsoka Hotel,=20 Lovina. Good pool and staff. Variety of rooms from Rp70, to 200,000. = Close to=20 the beach.

  4. Mas Lovina=20 Cottages and Sea Breeze Restaurant. 2 storey cottages with ocean = views.=20 Reluctant to bargain.

  5. Nirwana Seaside=20 Cottages, Bali-style bamboo huts, hot water, fan, Rp75,000/nite. A/C = room=20 Rp175,000. Rules like a boarding school. No swimming before 9am = or after=20 8pm with a guard to police the policy but who wont tell the invading = hawkers=20 to p*ss off. On the beach but no direct access and now there is a wall = which=20 blocks even the view of the beach. In late '05 there were reports that = the=20 managers were rude, the hawkers were a continual pest even when you = were on=20 your cottage veranda well inside the complex and relaxation was never = to be=20 found. How do such places survive when there are so many great places = all=20 around in Lovina?

  6. Angsoka Hotel,=20 Lovina. A$8-35 per night. Discounts for longer stays.

  7. Aneka Lovina.=20 Room with shower US$35, Bungalow with bath US$45 - with A/C. Some = travellers=20 have been disappointed here. Perhaps check on site before agreeing to = stay, to=20 see if it meets your expectations. Staff ignore women!? Expensive = food.=20

  8. Pulestis Hotel.=20 App Rp60,000/night. Pool. Central Ph 0362 41 035.

  9. Bayu Kartika=20 Hotel. Quiet, comfortable, on the waterfront. Rp180,000 A/C and = breakfast.=20 Very nice place.

  10. Mas Bungalows=20 in Banyualit from Rp25,000. Double if you want hot water.

  11. Sri Home stay=20 in Lovina. Rp25,000 and up.

  12. Villa Agung=20 Beach Inn. Cottage for 6 =96 Rp200,000, upstairs lounge o/looks = beach. =20 Room Rp 150,000. Including breakfast. Very pretty gardens. On the = water. Sandy=20 & Gus Beauman. Good food at good prices to cap it off.

  13. Hotel Rini,=20 Lovina Beach. Spotlessly clean. Close to beach. Cheap at A$25/night = for a nice=20 room. For 2 beds, cold water - Rp60,000 with breakfast. There are also = 2 level=20 bungalows with upstairs veranda. Good pool. Fantastic food. 2 minutes = to the=20 beach.

  14. Bayu Kartika.=20 Close to the beach, quiet and friendly. Rp150,000 in front room = including mini=20 bar, breakfast.

  15. Melka Hotel in=20 Kalibukbuk-Lovina offers a range of medium to cheapish accommodation = that is=20 good value. From US$78 to US$12 (advertised rates before bargaining) = with A/C=20 or fans. www.melkahotel.com/rate.html= .=20 Includes breakfast, service charge and government taxes. Very clean = rooms,=20 nice pool, little family zoo, spa and massage.

  16. Over the road=20 from Rambutan Cottages is Taman Lily=92s which is worth looking at. = Only 6 rooms=20 (in '07) clean and large, double bed and single, hot water, fridge = breakfast=20 included, A/C. Rp150,000; fan only Rp85,000. gervanleenen@hotmail.com. = Close to=20 activities. Friendly management and staff.

  17. Gede's=20 Homestay, www.gede-homestay.com/in= dex.html.=20 A/C rooms Rp150,000; about Aus$20.

  18. Puri Bali, www.puribalilovina.com/h= ome.html=20 . In the middle of Lovina in a quiet area close to the beach. About = Aus$28 per=20 night. Google 'Puri Bali' for their web pages. Many=20 recommendations.

#8A - THE NORTH EAST COAST  DISTRICT=20 SECTION. - This is the area from Lovina/Singaraja around = the top and=20 'right hand side' of the island towards Tulamben, Amed and Candi Dasa. I = confess=20 that I do not have great personal experience of the area but I am = beginning to=20 collect information from other travellers in preparation for future = trips.

1. SHOPPING -

2. EATING -

1. Agung Bali Nirwana = Resort=20 restaurant.

3. DRINKING -

4. DRIVERS -

5. VISITING -

  1. Les waterfall.

  2. Local school near the village of Les. It is a steepish = trek of=20 about 3 Km. 3+2 teachers and about 50 students. Very poor.

  3. Go east from Singaraja, along the north east coast and = stop at=20 Pura Meduwi Karang to wonder at the carving of an early explorer of = Bali in=20 the stone wall. The craftsman had some eye for detail in that he = remembered=20 what the bicycle looked like in general form, but the concept of = wheels nearly=20 eluded him. He remembered that they were round - and so were flowers - = so the=20 wheels became the perimeter of flowers and the spokes became the = flower=20 petals.

  4. A little past the flower cyclist there is Pura Ponjok = Batu,=20 literally 'the temple on the rocky corner'. A temple recalling the = same=20 Javanese priest who sited Pura Rambut Siwi, the well known Pura Tanah = Lot and=20 Pura Uluwatu. One of the current priest guides will tell you the story = of the=20 shipwrecked sailors from Lombok, saved by the magical appearance of a=20 freshwater spring amongst the stones on the beach where a carved ship = now sits=20 on a prominent rock. Here there is more than lip service paid to the = respect=20 shown to the Gods. A temple sarong and sash are of course needed but = perhaps=20 for the first time you will require a modified tourist purification = ceremony=20 before being allowed into the inner temple grounds. Our friend and = driver,=20 Made, will attest to the potency of the holy water from the fresh = water spring=20 that bubbles across the beach. The very day after we returned in '07 = wife=20 K'toot used it to purify him, the family, the neighbours and the = neighbourhood=20 'as well as the whole damn warung', Made finally achieved the deposit = for his=20 own car. I'm certain that he will make sure we return there in future. =

6. DOING -

1. Snorkelling off the = beach in many=20 places along this coast. Tulumben has a famous WWII ship wreck just off = the=20 beach.

7. ACCOMMODATION = (Standard)=20 -

  1. Agung Bali Nirwana = Resort (ABNR) is=20 east of Lovina/Singaraja and about a 2.5 to 3 hour trip from the = airport going=20 through Ubud and Kintamani. It is not a trip for late at night as your = driver=20 would be almost stranded until the next day and would expect extra = payment for=20 this. Also the scenery along the way is spectacular in places and = needs=20 daylight to be appreciated. ABNR is an eco-friendly resort of only 3 = villas=20 from US$120 to US$310 per night, incl tax but not service = charge, =20 depending on season and style of villa. Overlooking the ocean and the = lights=20 of the fishing fleet, away from the noise and hustle of the usual = tourist=20 places, with the local frog chorus as a background serenade as you eat = in the=20 resort restaurant or in your own private bale. Each villa has 3 = bedrooms with=20 30 staff to look after guests. Near the village of Sambirenteng. Guest = activities are catered for in-house as there are no organised = activities close=20 handy. Spa and pool. Push bikes. Check the web site for pics and = rates, www.agung-bali-nirwa= na.com/main.html.=20 E-mail villas@agung-bali-nirwana.c= om.=20

  2. To the east of Lovina/Singaraja on the north west = coast there=20 are several hotels of varying standards including Pondok Sari, Reef = Seen,=20 Jumbawa Homestay and Taman Selini. A new resort in '08 is Adi Assri = Beach=20 Cottages (www.adiassri.com) which has only 12 cottages completed with = 16 more=20 to follow. The rate is between US40-60 a night including breakfast, = service=20 and taxes. Included is a new dive centre catering for up to 6 divers = only per=20 trip. All gear is of course new. www.searovers.net.

8. ACCOMMODATION = (Cheap) -=20

# 9=20 - CANDI DASA = DISTRICT=20 SECTION. Also includes Amed, Tirthagangga and Padang=20 Bai.

Pronounced=20 =91Chahn-dee Dah-sa=92.

A more=20 relaxed part of the Bali tourist trail, some would say the most relaxed = and=20 youngsters looking for nightlife would call it deadly = boring..

.
Amed=20 is really a string of little villages along the very narrow strip of the = eastern=20 coast between Mounts Agung, Seraya and Bisbis and the shores of the = Lombok=20 Strait. The topography is very up and down making movement a bit tiring = and=20 making for many steps in most hotels. There is a nice, simple map at www.balit= ravelink.com/images/maps/eastcoast.jpg.=20

=85To the=20 north and east . . . . . . " there is only one really practical route = from Sakah=20 Junction (on the main Denpasar to Ubud road) to Amed. The road goes = through=20 Candi Dasa, by-passes Amlapura, and continues through Tirthagangga to = Culik=20 where you take the narrow road to the right (ojek motorcycle taxi = drivers wait=20 at this junction to provide transport). There are also morning bemos. = The narrow=20 road goes to Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan and Selang Beach (the last = accommodation is=20 here, close to the beach) and continues to complete a circle back at = Ujung and=20 Amlapura. The coast road between Lumpur and Selang Beach was very rough = but now=20 improved and quite manageable if you want to try it and have the time. = It is 42=20 Km long." "The Man" =96 17.2.01; BaliTravelForum.

'Let me be=20 blunt about Amed; from Culik onwards I thought it was pretty scruffy and = it does=20 not rate very highly IMHO.' Dec '04 - to which I'd add, -and it is a = pretty=20 expensive sort of scruffy too, and difficult to find a flat piece of = dirt to=20 stand a Bintang on.

=91The coast=20 road to Amed from Amlapura requires about 3 hours = and nerves=20 of steel. About 3-4 hours from the south, depending on traffic. The = scenery is=20 spectacular!=92

In 2003=20 this coastal road was upgraded and sealed. It is now not the = hair-raising drive=20 it used to be but the unbelievable scenery remains. =93One of the = world=92s great=20 and spectacular coastal roads.=94 Stop at the Ujung Water Palace which = is being=20 renovated (2003). The palace was built in 1921 by the last ruler of the = regency=20 of Karangasem. There are other safe stops along the road where view can = be=20 wondered at. Amlapura was originally known as Karangasem until the = eruption of=20 Mount Agung in 1963. The change of name was the result of a = superstitious belief=20 that the new name would hide the town from the spiritual forces that = might cause=20 future eruptions.

Transport=20 from Legian to Amed from Rp200-250,000 (about 3 hours from Seminyak =96 = 3.5-4=20 hours from Kuta depending on traffic conditions) can be by Amed drivers = who will=20 come and collect you. They know the area best. It will take longer of = course if=20 you want to linger at places such as Candi Dasa for a snack or the Water = Palace=20 at Tirthagangga or if you take the side road to beautiful Sideman. If = you want=20 to do it native style, try the Perama Shuttle Bus from Kuta Beach to the = T=20 intersection at Culik village about 20 mins north of Tirthagangga. Ask = the=20 driver to drop you here. At Culik charter a vehicle to finish the trip = to any=20 Amed area accommodations. Total cost should be less than Rp75,000. = Perama=20 timetables at http://www.peramatour.co/=20 or www.hallofreun.de/perama-= e.html.=20

From Candi Dasa a=20 hire car will take you for a day to Amed for about Rp150,000 ('06). The = back=20 road through Budakeling is an interesting way around Mt Agung and = through rice=20 paddies and forests.

Amed is not=20 a village for casual walking as it is spread along the indented coast. = It is=20 quite hilly. Little transport is available, which some travellers find a = relief=20 from Kuta.

If you=92re=20 going take some eye drops as many of the locals have eye problems due to = the=20 sharp sand and dust which seems to have a volcanic ash=20 component.

Transport in Amed=20 is about non-existent so at night you will be pretty much confined to = your=20 accommodation and the places on either side of you. Its not a lot better = during=20 the day.

Padang Bai is on a bay before Candi Dasa. It = is a very=20 small but beautiful fishing/tourist village at one end of the bay and a = large=20 slightly grotty ferry terminal at the other where you will be ripped off = by=20 'porters' if you let go of your baggage as you get a ticket to board a = ferry.=20 The village end is quiet and picturesque. Two bays before Candi Dasa is = the=20 beach ferry port of Kusamba with a fishing village on one side of the = entrance=20 road and very old but still functioning beach salt works on the other = side. It=20 is a fascinating place and well worth a visit. There is a nice little = warung=20 there, the Merta Sari, mentioned in Janet de Neefe's book, Fragrant = Rice. =20 Try the spicy fish sates, made fresh while you wait. From Padang Bai = there are=20 walks over the hills in both directions along the coast. In one = direction you=20 come to the beach at the Blue Lagoon where the snorkelling can be = spectacular.=20 In the other end you will come to White Beach, pristine and nice for = swimming or=20 for surfing.

Padang Bai is=20 developing as a tourist resort, but slowly. There are now ('07) several = small=20 hotels on the bay-front road with swimming pools. Puri Rai A$50/night; = Padang=20 Bai Beach Bungalows (V. nice) A$35 and up; Mustika Sari Beach Hotel, = also about=20 A$35 depending on how well you bargain. For meals try Kadeks Cafe or the = Kayu=20 Bali (German owner).
There is a reliable money change opposite the = bank=20 (Cirrus cards not accepted, only Plus cards) who insists that you count = your=20 money before he takes yours. His name is Komang and he also has a small = warung.=20 Ph081 348 654 707.

Check http://www.bluemoonvilla.com/ = and http://www.santaibali.com/ . For = general=20 Amed info try http://www.amed.vze.com/.=20

** = Beware of=20 temporary tattoos. Many people have severe = reactions to the=20 chemical cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, and = which is=20 toxic and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in children = with=20 recent reports saying that one in five children will be = effected.=20 The scars after blistering may be permanent and flare up at times of = stress.=20 Refer to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html . = Cortisone cream=20 applied regularly gives some relief but would you want to be doing this = for the=20 rest of your life - or condemn your children to this???
Researchers = in=20 Germany have also uncovered a link between temporary tattoos and = permanent,=20 lifelong dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). Sufferers remain = allergic=20 to some metals, detergents and foods FOR LIFE!
** Be even more = careful of=20 permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you un-seal any sterile equipment and = that you=20 see the gun sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes as these can = also=20 transmit Hep C.

 

SHOPPING. -=20 Not as good as the southern = tourist areas=20 but you wont suffer too much.

  1. Watergarden Boutique.

  2. Asri=20 Shop. General merchandise, supermarket, clothing, souvenirs etc. Fixed = prices.=20

  3. It was reported=20 in '06 that the ATM's had been decommissioned as there was not enough = activity=20 to warrant their maintenance. There are still money changers and at = least one=20 bank office (with a terrible exchange rate last time I used it). There = are=20 ATM's at Klung Kung on the way out to Candi Dasa and at Amlapura on = your way=20 if you are going on the Amed, Tirthagangga, Tulumben etc.

  4. Shop for silver=20 from local crafts people.

  5. There is a=20 tailor next to Mr Grumpy's in the main street (are there any others?) = who=20 speaks good English and has been used with satisfaction by Oz = shoppers.=20

EATING.

CANDI DASA, AMED, LIPAH BEACH -

  1. Kubu=20 Bali. Hotel and restaurant. Neither cheap but both good if you can = climb the=20 steps.

  2. Beer=20 Garden.

  3. Restaurant on water between Hotel Rama and = town.=20

  4. Lotus/Lotus Garden not recommended (2000) but = better=20 reports in 2002. Good views and entertainment frequently. =

  5. Serai=20 Rest. A bit pricey compared to others.

  6. Candi=20 Agung 2, last on left going east from town. Either good or really bad. =

  7. Warung=20 Astawa Rest. Opp. Candi Agung 2.

  8. Tirta=20 Ayu, at Tirthagangga =96 pumpkin soup!

  9. Rajas.=20

  10. Vincent's has=20 nice jazz and both international and Indo menus with a bit of a focus = on the=20 Dutch side, reflecting the owners tastes. Indoors or outdoors. The = food is=20 good too.

  11. The=20 Iguana.

  12. Kubu Bali=20 restaurant attached to the hotel, as is common in Candi Dasa.=20

  13. Puri Pan=20 Dan. Open pavilion overlooking the water towards Nusa Penida.=20

  14. Queens is=20 cheap, good and very local.

  15. The Kedai=20 is not the cheapest but it is amongst the best. Try their mustard = & honey=20 chicken. Same owner as Ary=92s Warung in Ubud. Sampling menus of 4 or = 5 courses;=20 Rp75 and 90,000.

  16. Agung=20 Warung.

  17. Pondok=20 Wisata Kerti Beach Inn, Padang Bai just before Candi Dasa. =

  18. Wawa Wewe=20 I and Tiying Peteng in the Lipah Beach strip are good. They have = children=92s=20 dishes and serves.

  19. The=20 Temple Caf=E9 is unpretentious but great for breakfasts or try the = Aussie style=20 onion rissoles for lunch or curried Shepherds Pie. Owner Shirley is an = Aussie=20 ex-pat with a good feel for Balinese food.

  20. The=20 Watergarden restaurant was known as Kafe TJ. It is part of the Water = Garden=20 accommodation property and has perhaps some of the best food in Candi = Dasa and=20 you can get a de-caf coffee fix here which is a bit rare in Bali.=20

  21. Try the=20 sampling menu at the Kedai. Rp75,000 in '05. Magnificent

  22. Alia=20 Mangis is just outside of the Candi Dasa township but is worth the = visit.=20 Stewart is the Aussie chef in =9204.

  23. Kepala Mas has had a recent renovation but = the food is=20 still more authentic than most other places anywhere in = Bali.=20

  25. The Three=20 Brothers in Amed does a pretty good line of fish and chips with nice = little=20 strips of battered barracuda.

  26. Warung Pini run=20 by Wayan would you believe? At the farthest end of CD in the coconut=20 plantation by the fishing village. It is run by = Wayan (now=20 don=92t be surprised at that) and she welcomes visitors as well as = locals.=20

  27. One of=20 the last restaurants on the right as you leave CD going to Amlapura is = Warung=20 Bali Bagus. Not a true warung but very clean and excellent value for = good=20 food. '07- 3 courses plus Bali Kopi, Rp40,000. Opposite Assa Money=20 Changers.

 

  1. AMED =96 Amed is really a series of almost joined = small villages=20 at each of the little bays along this coast. Most eateries in Amed are = part of=20 the various hotels. The choice is not great. A regular tourist = suggests that=20 the rule of thumb is NOT to eat at a hotel but to try your luck = elsewhere.=20 Sails Restaurant has a good reputation a has Life in Amed. Transport = can be a=20 problem in Amed. Do not expect to hail a Blue Bird Taxi on the street. = There=20 is only one road in Amed. It follows the fairly steep coast along the = edge of=20 the Mountains Lempuyang and Gunung along the northern coast. The road = is very=20 much an up and down affair, not for those who are not used to hilly=20 walking.

  2. WaWa WeWe=20 Hotel and Restaurant. - Amed. No A/C but cool breezes straight off the = water.=20 Getting a bit tired? (2001). The restaurant is being rebuilt in 2002 = but there=20 is no news that suggests the food will improve.. Live music but = limited=20 repertoire.

  3. Good=20 Karma is similar to Wa Wa We We, as is Eka Purama.

  4. Komeng=20 John Caf=E9 =96 Amed.

  5. Restaurant Gede =96 Amed. Try the woodcutter = omelette=20 with tomato sauce straight from their own kitchen.

  6. Santai=20 Restaurant =96 Amed.

  7. Pondok=20 Vienna Beach Hotel. Entrees Rp15-30,000. Wine Rp80,000/bottle. = Accommodation.=20 US$45 night. Breakfasts particularly good.

  8. Hidden=20 Paradise. (at Lipah) In Hidden Paradise hotel. Mosquitoes can be a = problem in=20 the rooms. Good pool. Attractive restaurant setting in gardens. Good = food at=20 budget prices.

  9. Coral=20 View. Nice. Accommodation. US$45 night. One of the few reasonable = beaches in=20 the district.

  10. Caf=E9=20 Garam (=91salt=92 =96 display of local salt history on walls.), Hotel = Uyah.=20 =96International cuisine. New 2001. Reports of excellent quality. Live = music=20 Saturday nights. Bungalows still under construction (June =9101).=20

  11. Kusumajaya Inn. Rp180,000 fan cooled bungalow = on the=20 beach. Walking distance to Jemeluk Beach that has good fish = snorkelling but=20 mainly dead coral. Manager not too friendly. Meagre breakfast.=20

  12. Prema=20 Liong. Beautiful bungalows (2 levels), o/door bathroom, Rp150,000. = Good food=20 and staff.

  13. Warung=20 Brith. Not part of the accommodation scene. The owner/cook is Brith = and he=20 takes care to get fresh food. Simple Babar cuisine - Indo-Chinese. = Common in=20 this district. Fresh ingredients only. Reasonable prices, full dinner = for=20 Rp25,000.

  14. Restaurant Gede, a little south of Amed at = Lipah Beach,=20 a fishing village. Quality food.

  15. The=20 Dancing Dragon Restaurant is part of the seafront Dancing Dragon = =91feng shui=92=20 accommodation property. It is a top quality eatery offering western = and Asian=20 dishes.

  16. The=20 Pavilion is upmarket and up-hill overlooking the Japanese ship wrecked = off the=20 coast north of Amed.

  17. Sun Rise=20 Caf=E9 on the beach at Jemeluk Bay near Amed on the east coast has = simple food=20 cooked to perfection. The fish is moist, quite unlike the traditional = Bali=20 offerings.

  18. The Sun=20 Rise is right on the beach at Jemeluk, the village/bay just south of = Amed and=20 its is worth finding.  Fish is great of course as you would = expect along=20 this coast and the chicken is a good alternative.

  19. The=20 newish Anda Amed Resort has an international menu that=92s hard to = beat =96=20 particularly in this neck of the woods and is a nice = addition to this=20 area. The=20 resort=92s not too bad either.  On the hillside = near Lipah=20 Beach the views across the Lombok Strait are stunning. Their pool-side = restaurant has an adventurous menu which is also = welcome.

  20. Restaurant Gede in Amed has had a great = reputation over=20 the years but it now has two price lists, not even the one for locals = can be=20 called value for money any more.

  21. Lipah Beach by = Amed is a=20 long way to go for a feed but if you=92re in the locality try the new = (mid=9205)=20 Caf=E9 Indah. The tables are on the sand amongst the fishing boats so = the=20 seafood should be fresh and in this area it should be cooked properly=20 (although that doesn=92t seem to often apply in Jimbaran Beach). The = menu is=20 heavy on Indo versions of Chinese favourites such as Sweet and sour = this and=20 that, coconut base curries, chilli and honeyed dishes. Lunches for 4 = including=20 soft drinks are Rp100,000.

  22. Anda Amed received good press in '06. 'Room, = restaurant=20 and pool all first class. Well trained staff add to the pleasure of = the stay.'=20 Oli and Punki are the resident pet ducks. The sun rises over Mt = Rinjani on=20 Lombok and sets over Nienes Bar and Mt Agung on Bali. Great=20 sights.

 

DRINKING.

.

VISITING.

  1. On the=20 way to Candi Dasa stop for a while at Klungkung, the old Balinese = kingdom=92s=20 seat of power for many years. Guides are available to show you around, = explaining the architectural styles and to relate the history of the=20 occupations by the Dutch and the Japanese. The museum is = interesting.=20

  2. Amed, a=20 village app 30K north of Candi Dasa. Spectacular rice paddies line the = road to=20 Amed. Bali of 20 years ago.

  3. Amed=20 Silversmiths. Highly skilled. 95% silver (not 92.5), which is = equivalent to=20 Sterling silver. Good designs available or will make to your design. = On the=20 road between Amed & Lipah, on the right near Hotel Indra Udhyana.=20

  4. Tirthagangga =96 Water Palace and springs =96 = peaceful.=20 Built in 1946 it was under renovation in 2003. Caf=E9 for refreshment = and food.=20 Pool for swimming. Beware of the stepping stones across the pool just = inside=20 the entrance to your left. Some are just underwater and they are very=20 slippery.

  5. Tenganan=20 traditional =91Bali Aga=92 (native Balinese) village closest to town = best. Ikat=20 and double ikat weaving. Lontars (inscribed palm leaf community = records and=20 calendars) grass weave and smoked place mats.

  6. Tabanan =96=20 traditional Aga village.

  7. Amlapura=20 Markets =96 Royal Palace. Not many tourists.

  8. Budekeling silver village.

  9. Tregenungan waterfall and bungy =96 on way to = Candi Dasa.=20

  10. Ciliks=20 Beach Garden

  11. Les=20 Village waterfall. Between Lovina and Amed. The =91best place in = Bali=92. =91Bali=92s=20 highest waterfall". (?). Longish trek =96 1.5 km. 1:10 incline, a bit = at the end=20 1:5. Les is 28 km south east from Lovina. Contact balibluey@yahoo.com for = pictures and=20 tours. Sensational.

  12. Air Sineh=20 pools. 17 km east of Singaraja =96 north and west from Candi Dasa.=20

  13. Bukit=20 Jambal. Spectacular views of coast plain. Good restaurants. =

  14. Jemeluk=20 Bay. Isolated, beautiful. Eat at the Divers Caf=E9, an open air = restaurant on=20 the beach. Snorkel just off the beach. Hire equipment there. Galang = Kangin=20 Bungalows are on the beach. New 2000? Rp80,000. No fridge but one = available.=20 Ph/fax (62) 036 323 480. Excellent value.

  15. Pasir=20 Putih beach up-coast a bit from Candi Dasa. There are no roads so you = will=20 need to hire a boat. It is a secluded cove with beautifully clear = blue-green=20 water surrounded by jungle.

  16. Visit Sideman,=20 a small village between Amlapura and Klungkung. Super peaceful. A = recognised=20 retreat for writers and artists. Have a look at either of Ida's two = villas=20 at  Villa Cepik if you want to stay. US$35for a large villa and = US$25 for=20 the smaller. Pool, gardens, rice terraces, bale and superb = food.

  17. White Sands=20 beach around the left headland from Candi Dasa or the Blue Lagoon = across the=20 bay to the right. Secluded places with delightful snorkelling in still = waters=20 close to the beach. Go soon to White Sands as the single warung = (Gusti's) on=20 the beach has recently been joined by 5 more. The crowd is moving = in!=20

  18. At Padang Bai=20 there is a secluded beach to the left past the ferry terminal. Go up a = narrow=20 road opposite the truck park past the police station and post office. = Turn off=20 before you go up the very steep part of the road. There may be a small = sign to=20 White Beach or 'Bias tugal'. About an 8 minute walk. Small warungs on = the=20 beach. Beautiful green-blue water and very white sand.

  19. Tihingan is the=20 Gamalan Village not far from Klungkung heading to Candi Dasa. This = village is=20 renowned for its gamelan and gong makers and the general casting of = brasses=20 and bronzes such as temple bells and tinkly hand bells. Not a place = for=20 someone who works in the Occ Health and Safety fields in Oz!! Think of = the=20 weight to take home in whatever you're tempted to buy. =

DOING.   =20 The Amed Cafe in Jemeluk has a = book full of=20 tour suggestions for the Amed area and, perhaps best of all in Amed, = they will=20 arrange transport.

  1. Fishing.=20 I Wayan Taman Budiasa (Buddy). Hut next to Sunrise Beach Bungalows.=20 Rp200,000.
    Rp100,000 in June 2001 for half day trip to nearby 3 = islands.=20
    Morning best =96 choppy water in afternoon.

  2. Snorkelling all around Candi Dasa, Lipah, = Amed etc.=20 Hire of gear costs about Rp20,000 per day. Tepekong Island and two = smaller=20 neighbours are easily visible from the beach-front hotels about a mile = off-shore. Good for diving but be quiet as the fish spook=20 easily.

  3. See the=20 view from the headland just to the east of the town. It=92s a steep = walk and a=20 bit of an adventure but the view from the top, if you make it, is a = bit=20 special. Follow the extra long extension cord to the small hut about = halfway=20 up and wonder at its real purpose.

  4. Walk up=20 into the hills behind the town. Beautiful landscapes. Very tranquil. = Trekking=20 through rice fields or to local temples are for the fairly fit as most = of this=20 area is very much up and down.

  5. Visit=20 Bali Aga (original inhabitants) village at Tenganan and others. See = ikat and=20 double ikat weaving, lontar scrolls done as they have been for = centuries,=20 smoked weaving of canes and grasses into place mats etc. =20

    Komang is=20 a waiter at the Catra New Beach Restaurant and is a native of Tenganan = where=20 his mother is a weaver. He will be happy to take you to the village = and be=20 your guide. Of course you will be encouraged to buy some of the = magnificent=20 hand made double ikat cloth but you can always say =91No=92 if its too = expensive =96=20 and it is not cheap!

  6. Klungkung=20 markets. Historical buildings especially the old Palace and the Hall = of=20 Justice with its gristly ceiling.

  7. Water=20 Palace at Tirthagangga (=91Water of the Ganges=92). Near Amed. There = is also one=20 along the coast road back to Candi Dasa at Ujong.

  8. Rice=20 terraces near Karangasem which is near Amed.

  9. Snorkelling, particularly at the =91Blue = Lagoon=92, about=20 30 min by boat from Candi Dasa on the CD side of the ridge which has = Padang=20 Bai on its other side. Best coral and fish including reef sharks = (harmless).=20 Rp 150,000 for boat and snorkel gear for two =96 Rp170,000 for three. = Warm=20 water. Snorkel also at White Sands Beach in the opposite direction to = the Blue=20 Lagoon. The views back across the coast to Mount Agung are spectacular = on a=20 clear day particularly.

  10. At Amed=20 the best snorkelling is at the right hand end of Lipah Bay (as you = face the=20 water). Selang beach a couple of Km past Amed is also good, or = Banyuning a few=20 more Kilometres on where there is a wreck just a few meters off-shore. =

  11. Dewi Spa=20 and Salon, Candi Dasa Resort Centre.

  12. Catch a bemo=20 (local mini-bus) to Amlapura and visit the local markets and also = Hardy's=20 store which is a short walk from the local markets.

  13. Tirta=20 Gangga. Have small change and a few notes in one pocket when facing = sellers=20 and tour guides. Keep wealth out of sight or prices skyrocket.=20

  14. Visit=20 Amlapura markets =96 very local.

  15. Climb=20 Mount Agung if you=92re fit. 4 hours up. Striking dawns from the top = looking=20 towards Gunung Rinjani in Lombok with the lights of the villages in = the mists=20 below you. 4 hours down.

  16. Klungkung=20 historical town. See painted ceilings in Kertha Gosa. Also small = museum.=20

  17. At=20 Tulamben, a bit up the coast from Amed towards Singaraja/Lovina, Tauch = Terminal have a well organised dive operation and resort. Others are = cheaper=20 but have not always inspired confidence. Tauch will pick you up from = Kuta if=20 you want them to. Liberty ship wreck about 25 meters and Coral Garden = at about=20 30. Fish include rays, sharks, Scorpion fish Lion fish and Barracuda.=20 Although you can = snorkel off=20 the beach but its best not to try it at the full flood of the tide = when the=20 surface chop can kick up alarmingly and the currents are quite strong. = Make=20 sure someone on shore knows your intentions. It is a pity that some of = the=20 hawkers here are getting very pushy and persistent.

  18. Further=20 up the coast (heading north west) is the village of Tembok where you = can stay=20 at the Jepun Bali Resort designed by the same architect as the = Serai/Alia=20 Manggis resorts. A little further up the coast is the village of = Tejakula=20 where there are the =91horse baths=92 bathing pools (for humans) and = water falls.=20 Between these two villages the most recent lava flow can be clearly = seen like=20 a dry, bare river bed.

  19. Mt Lampuyung=20 Temple is on the mountain top with breathtaking views.

  20. Sea kayaks and bicycles are available for hire at Eka = Purnama=20 Bungalows.

DRIVERS.
There is plenty of transport available locally = but it is=20 suggested you book your return trip when you go as you are vulnerable to = inflated prices if you have to rely on a local driver to get out of the=20 area.

  1. I Komang=20 Mustika (Mickey) 081 2395 3457 or (0363) 41 982.

  2. Komang=20 Madog =96 santaibali@hotmail.com=20

  3. Made=20 Renno from Amed Silver Shop. amedsilver@hotmail.com=20

  4. Komang=20 Bajing from Blue Moon Villas. info@bluemoonvilla.com=20

  5. Made Dirga, Ph=20 (0361) 295 872 or 081 239 864 70. E-mail imadedirga@yahoo.com. A = likeable young=20 man who entertained me endlessly on a memorable trip from Candi Dasa = to=20 Ubud.

  6. Made Ciko=20 (=91Cheek-o=92). Candi Dasa. damer71@hotmail.com Good = English, good=20 car, good sense of humour.

  7. Robert.=20 Rp200,00/day. (0812) 3906 194. Tanyaricards@hotmail.com. =

  8. Wayan Marep. Ph=20 081 236 257 12. A kind and gentle gentleman. He drives for 'No Problem = Transport' who can be contacted on 0363 41110.

  9. Wayan Manek=20 (known as Nick) Ph 081 835 3501 or ask near Oka Cottages next to Prima = Resor.

  10. Wayan from 'No=20 Problem Transport', 0363 41110. Friendly and does not make 'commission = stops'.

  11. Salin, +6281=20 7558 558. With his wife he owns Warung Puspa in Candi Dasa opposite = Kapala=20 Mas. Will go anywhere. Reasonable rates.

PEOPLE.

  1. Safari=20 Money Changers.

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Standard)

  1. Amankila=20 Manggis Pavilions, Candi Dasa - Expensive.

  2. Serai.=20 Sister hotel to The Chedi. $$$. Great restaurant. A mix of = International and=20 Indonesian cuisines. Not restricted to only hotel guests. =

  3. Intan. A=20 bit expensive.

  4. Sunrise=20 Beach Bungalows. On the beach. From Rp150,000/night for enormous room, = A/C,=20 fridge, restaurant. A$75/night for hut. Brick entry painted yellow = with big=20 sun motif.

  5. Pondok=20 Sari, in Permuteran.

  6. Seraya=20 Shores. About 15 min out of Candi Dasa on (or just off) the coast road = through=20 to Amed. Driver & jeep provided for access to secluded beaches = etc. Villa=20 for 2 US$50/day includes meals and drinks. B&B rate US$50 pp + = taxes.http://groups.msn.com/SerayaS= hores =20 http://= groups.msn.com/SerayaShores/shoebox.msnw?Page=3D1=20

  7. Avoid=20 Pondok Bamboo.

  8. Watergarden Hotel. A$120/night. = =93Fantastic=94. Small=20 & intimate, well maintained, good food. = =93Romantic=94!? The Watergarden = won the=20 Insight Guides Best Asian Hotel and Resort award in = =9204-=9205.

     What was the well respected TJ=92s = Caf=E9 is now=20 called the Watergarden Restaurant (=9204) and while not now described = as=20 marvellous it is still very good.

  9. Pondok=20 Vienna Beach Hotel, Lipah Bay. Transport available from here. Approx=20 US$20/night (Rp150,000) including breakfast and dinner. Fan cooled and = cold=20 water (luke warm if you=92re lucky). Basic but an excellent = location.  Five=20 steps to the beach. A la carte dinner is a bargain.

  10. Mimpi=20 Resort. Negotiate rates in low season. Tulumben =96 better than Amed. = Dramatic=20 scenery. Smaller.

  11. Hotel=20 Rama Candi Dasa. Bargain from US$90++ to US$40. Good views. A bit out = of town=20 but great amenities including a great pool.

  12. The=20 Temple Caf=E9 has seaside bungalows that are good value and the small, = unpretentious restaurant is worth a visit.

  13. Kubu=20 Bali. Has wide verandas with chairs and tables. In the middle of Candi = Dasa=20 running up the side of the steep hill face overlooking the bay. Great = ocean=20 views. 'Out of this world' '04 comment. Rp400,000/night. US$60 for = deluxe=20 villas; 'excellent value'. Mail Charlie at = info@kubu-bali.com=20

  14. If you=20 have the kidz with you try the Candi Beach Cottages which really are = on the=20 beach. Pool and games area available. Interconnecting rooms for larger = groups.=20 If you are into farmyard mornings take the cottages on the right hand = side.=20 Those on the left are quieter.

  15. Villa=20 Rajas on the =93beach=94 front at Candi. Clean, nice bathrooms, some = with a very=20 deep bath which was luxurious to soak tired bodies in. =

  16. The=20 Shangrila is fairly new ('04) with only a dozen rooms. On the=20 beach.

  17. Villa Gading.=20 Great location. Family owned and run. Good food at great prices. Pool=20 overlooks the bay.

  18. Vincent's is=20 new (late '05) has Dutch managers with a Dutch-leaning menu (as well = as=20 international offerings) and very cool Dutch jazz music. A recommended = vegetarian selection and world-wide beers. The good service has a = competent=20 and friendly air.

  19. Puri Bagus near=20 the lagoon. Quiet and peaceful. Good service and near great = snorkelling. Near=20 all the town restaurants.

  20. Bali=20 Shangr

TIRTHAGANGGA=20 (=93Water of the Ganges=94) = is a water=20 palace between Candi Dasa and Amed. Accommodation at the Puri Prima = above the=20 town gives great views but the accommodation is a little stuffy and old = world.=20 From Rp50,000/night. Alternatives worthy of inspection are Puri Sawah or = Tirta=20 Ayu which is in the ground of the Royal palace and bathing pools.. Puri = Sawah is=20 a place to eat even if you do not stay there. In a little bale in the = middle of=20 the rice fields you might be moved to romanticism but if not you'll eat = good=20 food.
Lunch at Warung Rijasa where you'll get real Balinese food and = meet a=20 gentlemanly host, Ketut.
Go to the big market at Kanngasem on = Saturday=20 morning. You might be the only white face there but you'll be a hit and = made=20 very welcome.

The old=20 palace of Karangasem was once the focus of the most powerful kingdom in = all of=20 Bali and Lombok. You can todal swim in the pools where once only kings, = princes=20 and comely maidens were allowed.
In '07 there were disturbing reports = of=20 thefts at the Kusumajaya Inn at Tirthagangga, high above the main road = just past=20 the water palace. The reports implicated the staff and the compliance of = the=20 brother managers (one an ex-policeman and therefore possibly = 'protected'). He is=20 also associated with the Kusumajaya Hotel on the beach strip of Jemuluk = at Amed=20 on the far east coast of Bali.

AMLAPURA = is the capital of eastern Bali and the largest = town in=20 the area. Limited accommodation. Try Seraya Shores south from the town = on the=20 coast. Deluxe Villas Rp250,000/person/night, includes all meals and=20 non-alcoholic drinks, use of driver and vehicle (not petrol). About 8-10 = Km from=20 Amlapura, 15 minutes to candi Dasa. E-mail serayashores@hotmail.com = checked only=20 2-3 times a week. No phone. http://= groups.msn.com/SerayaShores/shoebox.msnw?Page=3D1=20

AMED =96 Be warned that accommodation in Amed is = expensive for=20 the quality of the offerings at individual properties. In this respect = it is=20 similar to Pacung/Bedugul where there is obviously a lack of = competition, but=20 that is not an excuse here.

  1. Blue Moon Villa at Selang = Beach =96 new.=20 Only 5 rooms, sunny and bright, perfectly clean =96 great views and = food =96 =93Ah!=20 The pool . . .=94 =96 =91sensational=92. Try the mango = margaritas.

  2. Santai, Amed. Very good. = Managed by=20 Karen & Kim (f), English/Aussie. Good restaurant. Regular good = reviews=20 although perhaps not so good for young kids as the mezzanine part of = sleeping=20 accommodation is up a steep stairway. Lots of towels provided. The = nearest=20 phone is 40 Km away! Immaculate. See web address above. Rent a fishing = boat=20 and see the shipwrecks. See dolphins and hand feed fish. Beachfront = bungalow=20 for family about Aus$80/night. Nice pool, friendly staff.

  3. Hidden Paradise Cottages = (Amed) good.=20 A$40 / night =96 A/C. =93Recommended=94. Perhaps it should be in the = =93Cheap=94=20 section. Don=92t expect high quality at these prices.  Some = accommodation=20 is evidently available at A$80/night with only fan cooling. Could = not be=20 recommended at this price.

  4. Coral View, Amed. Cheaper than some but Spartan = and=20 perhaps not really good value compared with more up-market properties. = US$60/night for a family unit. Rules are like a boarding house. No = fridges. No=20 water provided. (Same ownership as Hidden Paradise (above), which is = Less than=20 US$40/night.) Newer than Hidden Paradise. =91Run down, dirty, = smelly=92 =96 =9203.=20 Probably closest to the few restaurants. Has there been an upgrade in = '07?=20 Reports now indicate A/C in the villas, fridges and outdoor showers = with hot=20 water. Nice pool and good food. May be worth a look.

  5. Good Karma Bungalows near Amed. Great position = on the=20 beach. Traditional bungalows. Good restaurant. App Rp 100,000 / = double.=20

  6. Candi Dasa Beach Hotel. Rp250,000/night = including.=20 Breakfast. Very central.

  7. Candi Beach Bungalows II.

  8. Candi Beach Cottages. On the beach. Good value, = good=20 rooms. Photos http://www.baliforfamilies.com/<= /A>.=20 Good bathrooms. Good service.

  9. Dewa Bharata Bungalows, Candi Dasa. =

  10. Pandan House near the Water Palace at = Tirthagangga on=20 slopes of Gunung Agung. Two-story living with all western facilities = in small=20 village. Rp100,000 per person per night. Accommodates up to 6.=20

  11. Some travellers have been less than impressed = with the=20 Indra Udhyana=96 particularly given the prices of US$140 =96 170 = although recent=20 troubles in Bali have allowed bargaining down to US$50/night which is = better=20 value. Beautiful lobby and infinity pool. Great = bathrooms.

  12. Sunshine Bungalows and Restaurant in Amed. = Rp150,000 for a=20 ground floor room with A/C, fridge, gigantic bed. Upstairs is = Rp2000,000. Nice=20 pool, right on the beach.

  13. If you=92re into sheng fui then you=92ll want to = read the rave=20 review of the Dancing Dragon Hotel by Cracker and Rae at http://www.balitra= velforum.com/msg/88139.html=20 . Not close to the few restaurants that are available in Amed but the = food=20 here at their own Dancing Dragon restaurant is very good and there is = a good=20 range of western, Asian and vegetarian dishes to select from. There is = no real=20 beach here, just a strip of smooth black stones from 1 to 5 meters = wide=20 depending on the tide. The ocean starts at the edge of the stones and = the=20 coral is only a good flipper kick away.

  14. At Tulumben - = Scuba Seraya=20 Resort. Scubaseraya@eksadata.com.

  15. Bayu Cottages, Amed. (Lipah Beach) Even better = than the=20 web pages depict. Beautiful beach, lovely accommodation, Open air = bathroom,=20 terrific toilet view. Fridge not standard but you only need to ask.=20 Rp205,000.

  16. Puri Wirata next to WaWa WeWe II in Amed. New in = =9204. Only=20 5 A/C rooms overlooking the sea. Pool. Restaurant has nice food but is = a bit=20 slow yet. (Sept comment.) Rate of US$60 (including tax & service = charges)=20 is negotiable and for a longer stay rooms can be had for Rp=20 200-350,000.

  17. The Bali Beach House at Amed is special. = Cottages=20 right on the beach with your own cook and a private pool. Cost is = reasonable=20 if shared 4 ways. Sometimes difficult to decide what you want your = cook to=20 prepare for you if you don't know what's available. Beware of the Babi = Guling=20 offer where for an unspecified cost a large pig is roasted and dozens = of=20 neighbours come to share your generosity!!!

  18. Bali = Shangrila is a=20 time share property and therefore well looked after but you can stay = there as=20 a visitor to Candi Dasa. Recently renovated ('06) and with some new = rooms.=20 Nice pool, views over the beach, such as it is in CD. T and coffee in=20 rooms.

  19. Apa Kabar Villas has good food at better = prices than=20 available at places offering accommodation.

  20. Life In Amed got good reviews in mid '07. = Small complex=20 of private cottages, pool and restaurant. Good staff. = Diving/snorkelling right=20 off the beach by the front door.

  21. Anda Amed is fairly new in '07. Good rooms, = good staff,=20 good owner (Kim), good diving.
     

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Cheap)

  1. Hotel Rama, Candi = Dasa =96=20 Cheap accommodation =96 expensive meals.

  2. Good Karma = Bungalows in Amed.=20 Has good rest. also. A$20/night.

  3. Coral View = Villas, better=20 than hidden Paradise =96newer. Probably closer to the few independent=20 restaurants.

  4. Lipah Inn. = A$18/p/night. A/C.=20

  5. AMED =96 Many = budget places -=20 www.santaibali.com ,

  6. Wawa Wewe 2. = Ahmed. Front=20 bungalow for Rp150,000/night.

  7. Pondok Wisata = Kerti Inn, at=20 Padang Bai. Up/down stairs accommodation Rp50,000/night. =

  8. Eka Purnama. Only = 4=20 bungalows. Rp80,000 for a single person. Very clean. Over looks ocean. = Rent=20 boats for A$4 for round trip along coast. Reservations geocowan@yahoo.com. =

  9. Puri Oke = Cottages. Less than=20 Rp200,000/night. Hotel backs onto beach. Room No 4 overlooks ocean. = Small pool=20 A/C & fridge but check the hot water. 3***.

  10. Pondok Bambu = Restaurant &=20 Bungalows. Feed the cocky but don=92t shake hands with him. =

  11. Puri Oka = Cottages. E-mail puriokra@indo.net.id =

  12. Pondok Vienna = Beach=20 accommodation at US$50 is not recommended by some, =93Dark, dank & = dirty=92,=20 yet others recommend the corner room upstairs in the A/C section at = US$25=20 (Rp175,000) with breakfast and one other meal. Rp175,000 in =9203 on = second=20 floor. Hot water intermittent but promptly attended to when complaints = made.=20 No pool here but on the beach which is good for snorkelling.=20

  13. Indra Hotel. = Adjoining rooms=20 for family accommodation US$100. Large clean pool. Great food next = door at the=20 Dancing Dragon.

  14. Hotel Fajar, = Candi Dasa.=20 Family owned and run. Beachfront. Pool. http://www.fajarcandidasa.com/.=20

  15. Seaview Cottages. = In the=20 US$15 / night price range. Clean and nice, especially for the price.=20

  16. Prema Leong, = Amed. On a hill.=20 Nice bungalows. Outside bathroom. Rp80,000/night.

  17. In Padang Bai try = the Kerti=20 Bungalows. Right on the beach. Clean, large rooms. Friendly. Good = food.=20

  18. Puri Dan = Cottages. Good food=20 too. On the beach, such as it is in Candi Dasa. Almost next to Seaside = Cottages which are a little better and a little dearer. =

  19. Seaside Cottages, = Candi Dasa.=20 Clean. Owned by Shirley, ex Aussie and nice. http://micbali.proboards21.com/index.cgi?bo= ard=3DEast&action=3Ddisplay&num=3D1067603976=20 .

  20. At Padang Bai, if = you want to=20 stop along the way to Candi or Amed, try the Pure Rai Hotel which had = the only=20 two swimming pools in Padang Bai before 2006. Rooms 101 and 106 are on = the top=20 level above the reception area and have sea views, rooms 305 and 306 = are close=20 to the pool but don=92t have a sea view. They are very large with = ornate king=20 size beds. Very clean, good storage, fridge, A/C, nice bathrooms, = veranda to=20 watch the passing marine parade from the ferry port just down the = coast.=20 Rp225,000/room/night including breakfast and worth it. There are quite = a few=20 cafes, warungs and Home Stays in Padang Bai which is a secret place = for a few=20 dedicated surfers and a few snorkelers. From Padang Bai you can walk = (about a=20 quarter of an hour) over and around the spur that separates it from = the next=20 bay to the north where the Blue Lagoon is. Not an easy stroll. Go = north east=20 along the beach (that=92s to your right as you face the beach) and = just before=20 the road that leads to Padang Bai=92s three temples there is a = signposted track=20 up the hill and then fairly steeply down the hill to the beach at Blue = Lagoon.=20 There are a few stalls and sellers on the beach, not pushy. =

  21. The Kerti Inn at = Padang Bai=20 is also cheap, comfortable, safe and has internet connections.=20

  22. Bayu Cottages at = Amed/Lipah=20 are nice at US$18-25 per night. Family run, on the beach, nice plunge = pool,=20 A/C, clean.

  23. Resor Prima in CD = is clean,=20 comfortable, A/C, fridge, TV. Nice gardens and pool. Through the palm = grove at=20 the end of the main street on the beachfront at a place where there is = actually some white sand. Rp150,000 for very good accommodation. = Clean, A/C,=20 fridge, TV, en-suite (western style), breakfast.

  24. Right on the beach, = from=20 Rp50,000/room.  http://www.balibeachfron= t-cottages.com/.=20

  25. Lotus Bungalows = are well=20 priced and nice, especially 13 & 14.

  26.  Resor Prima = is a gem=20 hidden down in the plantation by the bend in the main road and just a = minutes=20 walk from Warung Pini. You can snorkel just off the beach here, over = some of=20 the rare areas of live coral left in Candi Dasa.

  27. Seafront Cottages owned = by ex-pat=20 Aussie woman named Shiri. Simple and cheap.

#=20 10 =96 WESTERN BALI=20 SECTION.

The western section = of Bali is=20 the area nearest Java, furthest from the southern tourist areas and the=20 business/government centre of Bali in Denpasar.
Western Bali (in = these pages=20 at least) takes in the Kabupaten (District) of Jembrana  which = covers=20 virtually the same area as the old Kingdom. (The north west coast is = covered=20 more in the Singaraja/Lovina section of these notes.)
Jembrana is an = area=20 which has been discovered by surfers who have kept secret the other = delights of=20 the area. The capital of Jembrana is Negara, a fairly large town, well = planned=20 with a broad dual highway with central islands of grass, trees and = shrubs. This=20 main road to Java bypasses the centre on the town which has a hospital, = a post=20 office, banks, hotels, bus and petrol stations, market and mosque on the = town's=20 main street that runs parallel to the highway on the seaward (southern)=20 side.

Jembrana is close = to Java and=20 it is not surprising therefore that there is a greater influence of = Islam in the=20 area. These Indonesians are descendants from the seafarers of old who = came along=20 the coast from Sulawesi, Java and Madura. There is an old Bugis fishing=20 community just south of Negara who maintain 300 year old traditions = including=20 distinctive rectangular box houses and highly decorated and colourful = boats.=20 Their heritage is quite distinct from the more common Balinese who = follow the=20 Agama Hindu beliefs.  This mixture of races and religions is not = something=20 that should concern tourists however.
Jembrana is the most sparsely = settled=20 part of Bali even though some recent villages have been created to house = Balinese Christians and whole villages that were destroyed by the last = Mount=20 Agung eruptions.

If the road to = Singaraja and=20 Lovina is =91the road less travelled=92 then the roads to the west of = Bali could=20 only be described as positively deserted as far as tourists are = concerned,=20 although both are very significant highways as far as the island=92s = commercial=20 and local connections to mainstream Indonesia in Java is = concerned.
Although=20 there are these north and south coast roads, there is nothing much to = connect=20 the two across the highest mountains. Only by going through Gilimanuk = where the=20 northern and southern roads meet at the furthest western end of the = island or by=20 going east to the road which links Seririt on the north coast to the = south coast=20 north west of Tanah Lot temple can you get from north to south or vice = versa.=20 The Sererit road is steep in places but spectacular in its own=20 way.

The road from = Denpasar/Kuta etc=20 passes down through Soka and the glimpses of the ocean to your left are = great,=20 as are the forest views towards the hinterland. Negara is a large town = but not=20 really tourist oriented except when the bull races are on around August, = September and October. The Taman Wana Villas are a nice place to = stay by=20 the Palasari Dam which serves recreational purposes as well. Further = along past=20 Negara and Kandikusama is the village of Melaya which was developed a = bit by the=20 Dutch during their occupation of Bali. There are two churches here but = rural=20 pursuits, including the wild cocoa and vanilla groves and palm sugar = (=91jaggery=92)=20 production in large dishes over open fires is interesting. The isolated = fishing=20 villages have small huts standing out in the water which can not be seen = anywhere else on Bali as far as I know. They are used mainly by pearl = divers. If=20 you head inland just after Candikusuma you head up and down through = beautiful=20 little village like Nusasari, Ekasari and Pukasari and will eventually = come to a=20 surprising Catholic community and the little known Taman Wana Villas a = bit=20 further on, near the Palasari River and reservoir, right next to the = West Bali=20 National Park. These villas have an advertised rate of $250 per night = but in =9204=20 could be bargained down to $112. A lagoon view room is advertised at = $363. A few=20 kilometres away is an equally surprising Protestant community. These are = Balinese Christians, converts from the Dutch missionaries who worked in = Bali=20 during the Dutch occupation, against official Dutch policies at the = time. The=20 original settlers were rejected by their families and their villages, as = much=20 because they were seen to be siding with the Dutch as for their = religious=20 conversions. The re-settlement by the Dutch authorities was as much an = admission=20 of guilt following previous years of colonisation as it was the shame of = being=20 seen to have allowed cultural change within the communities where the=20 missionaries worked.

A little south of = Negara is the=20 bull racing arena at Pangambengam. You can see minor races or training = sessions=20 quite frequently but the main money events are in August and October. = The big=20 events, particularly, are colourful and spectacular.
Western Bali is = the=20 =91left hand=92 side of the map and it sees the end of the central = mountains that=20 run across the island. It is quite arid in parts but the tropical forest = in the=20 National Park is lush in the deepest valleys. In the park you may be = lucky=20 enough to see the very rare and therefore very valuable, white, Bali = Sparrow.=20 Don=92t get caught if you=92re tempted to try to catch one. The = penalties are=20 extreme and the =91Bali Hilton=92 (jail) in Kerobokan is not at all like = the Hilton=20 in Nusa Dua.

The inhabitants = along the=20 poorer parts of the north west coast are re-settled Balinese from the = separation=20 of East Timor. They seem to have just been dumped in a place that no-one = else=20 could live in or wanted. Similar things could be said of the Mount Agung = eruption refugees who were re-settled on the south coast.
The main=20 attractions, apart from the ferries to Java which depart from Gilimanuk = and the=20 associated docks and bus terminal, are the West Bali National Park, in = the=20 highlands mainly, and the snorkelling around Menjangan Island on the = north coast=20 (which is also included within the park boundaries). Admission to the = island=20 costs about Rp15,000 which covers boat, guide, entry fees, car parking = and=20 snorkelling equipment hire (Rp150,000???). Sharing with a larger group = reduces=20 the costs per individual. If you intend to spend some days in the water = it might=20 pay you to buy/bring your own mask so that you know you=92re going to = see things.=20 The largest flippers (fins) that you=92re likely to find will be=20 46.

 

SHOPPING.

1.         =20  

EATING.

  1. The Pondok Sari = hotel at=20 Permuteran has a good reputation. It faces the beach at Permuteran. = There are=20 really no hawkers on the beach which is nice for swimming. The = backdrop to the=20 hotel from here is one of frequently mist shrouded mountains just = inland from=20 the coastal strip. Peaceful.

  2. Ponjok Indah = Restaurant in=20 Kayuputih. Aussie steaks, veg, salad, fries, juice from Rp60,000. Good = wine=20 selection. Pure fruits =96 no additives; coconut, banana, Ananas, = sirsak.=20

  3. In Medewi try Mai = Malu's Restaurant=20 on a corner of the main road at the turn off to the surf point. =

 

DRINKING.

VISITING. =96

  1. You=92ve got=20 to see the ferry terminal at Gilimanuk, if only to say you=92ve been = there. Have=20 a quick look at the bus terminal but be careful that the enthusiastic = bus=20 drivers or their pushers do not load you onto a bus to=20 somewhere.

  2. The temple=20 Pura Melanting about 5 km from Permuteran (25 from Gilimanuk ferry = terminal)=20 is built on the side of a hill and has interesting architecture and=20 carvings.

  3. Hot springs=20 were found between Permuteran and Gilimanuk, just off the main = northern road=20 and just inside the Park boundary, but they are now generally dry = except at=20 the peak of the wet season.

  4. Reefseen=20 Turtle hatchery in Permuteran. There are horse stables and riding = there as=20 well as diving.

DOING. =96 =

1.    Go=20 snorkelling at Menjangan Island. A 30 minute boat ride. Your boat will = anchor=20 over uninspiring sand shallows but a few flips off and there are = spectacular=20 underwater cliffs. It will take about an hour to cover the length of the = most=20 spectacular =91drop-off=92 about 20 meters out from shore at one beach = along to the=20 beach at the other end. Even in poor conditions the visibility is 15 =96 = 20=20 metres.
Over an hours drive from Lovina but well worth it. Rp164,000 = /person=20 with packed lunch from local restaurant. Full day trip from 8 am to 4 pm = return=20 to hotel. In =9204 a group of three paid Rp470,000 for all gear and the = boat=20 ride.
Menjangan is Bahasa Indonesia for deer which often swim the = short=20 distance from the mainland to the island. There are a few temples but no = permanent inhabitants.

2.    Bali=92s=20 =91Romeo and Juliet=92 grave site at the Jayaprana Temple is not far = from Menjangan=20 Island. About 15 Km from Gilimanuk along the main road towards = Lovina/Singaraja,=20 a sign will point the way. The story, in brief, is one of love between=20 Jayaprana, the adopted son of the king, and beautiful Layonsari, and the = regal=20 lust that resulted in the death of the beautiful lovers and the royal = warrior=20 who had been sent hunting with Jayaprana, ostensibly to guard him but in = fact to=20 murder him. The gods intervened in the plot and the murder failed = repeatedly=20 until Jayaprana realised what was happening and allowed himself to be = killed=20 with his own kris out of love and respect for the king. A magical white = tiger=20 then killed the guard and Layonsari committed suicide on hearing the = news. The=20 lovers and the guard who now watches over them for eternity are all = buried at=20 the site which is now revered as a temple. To read the story with the = added=20 flavour of being told in stilted English by an Indonesian. Go to www.hotelwww.net= /balibarat/jayaprana.htm=20 .

3.    Watch the=20 endless lines of ferries going to and from Java. The skill of the = skippers when=20 docking amid maritime confusion in a cross wind and following swell = should be=20 appreciated. Keep clear of the stampede to the bus terminal when a = passenger=20 ferry arrives.

4.    Negara is=20 a town on the south west coast. In September or October each year there = is a big=20 event for racing buffalos. Details are available in the south from = Peanuts=20 Nightclub (Jl Legian) who sponsor the events and organise a large bus to = take=20 tourists up there. The Bupati's Cup, run in the town square, is on the = Sunday=20 before Indonesia's Independence Day, which is the 17th of August. The = most=20 important race is the Governor's Cup in October. Check at the Department = of=20 Tourism in Jl Setia Budhi.

5.    Medewi=20 ('MedEEwee') is a surfers Mecca along the Jembrana coast, a bit closer = to Negara=20 than to Soka which is where the road first meets the coast. Not well = signposted=20 from the main road there are some 2** and 3*** accommodations but the = main=20 attraction is a left-handed surf break that rolls best during the second = half of=20 the rising tide and carries for a kilometre or more down the coast on a = good=20 day, pushed by a swell that can build all the way across the Indian = Ocean from=20 the east African coast.

6.    Cecik is=20 about a kilometre from Gilimanuk. It is not only the site of an active=20 archaeological dig revealing some of the origins of settlement on Bali = dating to=20 about 1,000BC, but there is also a curious war memorial with an external = stairway which celebrates the landing of the first republican forces to = oppose=20 the re-colonisation by the Dutch after the declaration of Indonesian=20 independence. These forces came across the Bali Strait from Java in = small=20 fishing boats and outrigger jukungs. A well remembered event was the = sinking of=20 an armed Dutch patrol boat by one of these small craft, the Republic's = first sea=20 battle, and a successful one too!

 DRIVERS.

PEOPLE. -

ACCOMMODATION - (Standard) =96 = For hotel details have a look at Mic=92s Bali = Forums, at=20 http://micbali.proboards21.com/index.cgi?board=3Dpemut = .

  1. The big=20 mama of hotels is the Matahari near the small village of Permuteran. = Of=20 interest only to wealthy Americans on a business card holiday, and = Japanese=20 =91wanna-be=92s=92, you=92ll need to outlay about US$200 per person = per night to=20 luxuriate in the magnificence of their facilities.

  2. Pondok=20 Sari Beach Bungalows and restaurant are at Permuteran, a village on = the=20 east-west road that runs across the northern coast. US$40, Rp325,000 = (inc tax)=20 for a Bali style A/C room, outdoor bathroom and occasional hot water. = No=20 in-room fridges at all. It faces the beach at Permuteran. The beaches = here are=20 a mixture of coral sands which are on the coarse side and dark grey = volcanic=20 sands =96 the famous but not accurately named =91black sand=92 beaches = of the north=20 coast. There are really no hawkers on the beach which is nice for = swimming.=20 The backdrop to the hotel from here is one of frequently mist shrouded = mountains just inland from the coastal strip. Peaceful. Diving tuition = available.

  3. Taman=20 Sari Bali Cottages, close to the Pondok Sari, is an eco-based place = with an=20 interesting coral re-growth program just off shore. There are only a = couple of=20 cottages with fridges, the cheapest of which, if you=92re lucky enough = to find=20 it vacant when you want it, is priced at US$80. Diving tuition=20 available.

  4. Reef=20 Seen. A small eco-hotel which runs a turtle rescue program. Horse = riding on=20 the beach an option here.

  5. Villa=20 Agung Beach Inn.

  6. At Medewi=20 on the south coast there is the Medewi Beach Cottages, nice and clean = with a=20 good pool. Check their web site. There are also basic surfer = accommodations=20 across the road which are much cheaper at A$20/night but pretty=20 basic.

  7. Less basic is=20 the Puri Dajuma on the coast near Medewi. Don't be put off by the = unsealed=20 road off the main highway from several signs. This place is all class = although=20 somewhat isolated, with a wonderful restaurant and a delightful pool, = ideal=20 for 'getting away from it all. Advertised at 114 Euros a night it has = been had=20 for as little as US$70 through some on-line agencies.

  8. Taman=20 Wana Villas near Palasari and right on the edge of the reservoir in = the hills=20 about 4 hours interesting drive from the airport is lush and inviting = with=20 friendly staff.

  9. Aneka=20 Bagus, Permuteran Buleleng, North West Bali =96 Indonesia. anekabagus@anekshotels.com= ; www.anekahotel= s.com/aneka-bagus/index.html.=20 Ph 62 362 94 798; Fax 62 362 94 799.

  10. I have heard there is a new ('08) hotel and bar in = Gilimanuk=20 where the Java Ferry departs.

ACCOMMODATION =96 (Cheap) - =

  1. Gusti Guest House at Medewi is losmen = style at=20 A$5-10 / night.

  2. Gede's Homestay in Medewi has been = described as the=20 best value in Bali. Great place, beautiful people and even better = food.=20

  3. Along the beach at Peraneak, near = Negara on the=20 south west coast, there are many bungalows thet are cheap and = clean.=20

#=20 11 -=20 LOMBOK. DISTRICT = SECTION.

** = Beware of=20 temporary tattoos. Many people have severe = reactions to the=20 chemical cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, and = which is=20 toxic and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in children = with=20 recent reports saying that one in five children will be = effected.=20 The scars after blistering may be permanent and flare up at times of = stress.=20 Refer to http://www.hennapag= e.com/henna/warnings.html,=20 or http://sphosting/rev= erendbunny/mediappd.htm=20 or http://w= ww.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html=20 and http://www.hennapa= ge.com/henna/ppd/index.html . = Cortisone cream=20 applied regularly gives some relief but would you want to be doing this = for the=20 rest of your life - or condemn your children to this???
Researchers = in=20 Germany have also uncovered a link between temporary tattoos and = permanent,=20 lifelong dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). Sufferers remain = allergic=20 to some metals, detergents and foods FOR LIFE!
** Be even more = careful of=20 permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you un-seal any sterile equipment and = that you=20 see the gun sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes as these can = also=20 transmit Hep C.

** = Getting to=20 Lombok is a bit of an adventure in itself. There are the planes which = are quick=20 and give nice aerial views over the island and have the advantage of = landing you=20 near the capital of Mataram which is much closer to the popular central = west=20 coast resorts - best value is Indo Air Transport Rp382,000 ('08) to the = worst=20 aircraft at Rp442,000 from Trigana. Perhaps the most common is Merpati = at=20 Rp824,000 return, all inclusive, in '09. There are fast ferries - in = '08, Mahi=20 Mahi, Gili Cat and Blue Water. Cost is about Rp60,000 each way taking 2 = hours 10=20 min. and booking is easy at many street stalls in Bali. The port of = Lembar,=20 nearer the southern coast, is distant from the main tourist areas and = leaves the=20 visitor exposed to all sorts of transport scams at dockside. The Perama = ferry=20 from Padang Bai is cheaper much but slower (6 hours on a good day) but = an=20 adventure in itself if that's what turns you on! Just the look of the = ferries is=20 enough adventure for me.

** = Google 'Lombok=20 lovers' for more local information.

SHOPPING.

The=20 exchange rate in Lombok is generally not quite as good as in the = southern=20 tourist areas of Bali. The honest and reliable PT Central money changing = offices=20 run in the Kodak shops as they do in Bali. No trouble with credit cards = but a 3%=20 fee is often charged to use them. Travellers cheques attract about Rp25 = to 50=20 (1/2 to 1 cent) less / dollar than cash. (This is common throughout=20 Indonesia.)

Shopping is=20 similar to Bali but on a much smaller scale and not as=20 frenetic.

There is a=20 new shopping mall with a McDonalds(!) in Mataram = =962002.

  1. Classical=20 weaving, basket ware and pottery are common items. Also quality bamboo = furniture.

  2. Big=20 covered market at Sweta is not to be missed.

  3. Lombok pearls are worth searching for = (although=20 some travellers claim that all 'local' pearls come from China). Can be = offered=20 by the beach sellers on the Gillis. Various colours, pink, coffee, = green,=20 blue, silver, black. Cheapest on the Gillis, Rp 40-60,000 for = bracelets,=20 necklaces and anklets of small size pearls. Value in Sengiggi but 5-10 = times=20 the price in Kuta. Consider the cost of quality re-threading when = you get=20 them home. A$25 for set of necklace bracelet and anklet from = Novian the=20 massage man at Puri Tanah Lot Hotel on Camplung Mas Lane off Melasti = St, and=20 from the front of the Jayakarta Hotel, Legian. Also sellers at Legian = Beach=20 end of Jl Double 6 outside the beach cafes such as Benny=92s, Zanzibar = etc. Also=20 Lalu Samani Ph (361) 757 170, Rp50,000 for large strands of large = coloured=20 pearls. Aus$20 necklaces and Aus$5 wrist bracelets have been = reliably=20 valued at A$60 =96 80.

EATING.

Watch the=20 chillies!!!

  1. Asmara,=20 Sengiggi. Steaks! 3 course including drinks (Aust Chardonnay) = A12/head.=20

  2. Taman.=20 Circular rest on first floor. More $$$ than Asmara for atmosphere = &=20 outlook. Food as good.

  3. On the=20 Gillies =96 2kg snapper grilled with potatoes and salad, Rp45,000.=20

  4. Bumbu=20 Caf=E9 in the centre of Sengiggi.

  5. Try the=20 Sugar Restaurant in the new shopping Plaza.

  6. Papaya=20 Caf=E9.

  7. Astahari, on a=20 hill top near Kuta Bay. Only breakfast and lunch but worth being there = Vegetarian but very tasty. Bintang available.

  8. About opposite=20 the supermarket in Sengiggi, on the beach side of the road near the = bend as=20 you go up the hill, you'll find a fish warung set up under canvas each = afternoon/evening. Great food, very popular so very fresh, very cheap. = Not=20 open on Indo religious holidays. Main meals start from Rp8,000 for = things like=20 nasi goreng.

DRINKING.

VISITING.

  1. Banumulek=20 village =96 pottery.

  2. Sukarare=20 village =96 weaving & wood carving.

  3. Sasak=20 village =96traditional.

  4. Gilli=20 Nanggu =96 south west. PARADISE not lost. Uninhabited except for owner = and=20 visitors. Rest and back packer grade accommodation. Super fine sand. = Amazing=20 snorkelling.

  5. Lombok=20 Orphanage =96 PATMOS, Jl Abdullah bin ABD, Kadir Munsyi No 20, Ph = (0370) 626=20 441. Supported by Dutch woman, Lieke Rotsteeg, contact Front Office = manager at=20 the Sengiggi Beach Hotel, Putu Indiawan. Donations are very welcome.=20

  6. Kuta Bay=20 is (was?) a pristine place when we visited in about 1998 but there are = now=20 street lights on what were then dirt and sand roads.=20

DOING.

  1. Money=20 Changing. PT. Bali Maspintjinra at Jl Raya Senggigi Km. 13. Lombok. Ph = (0370)=20 692 247.

  2. Overnight=20 tours by Wali Bali good value. A$200. By Malibu Express Fast ferry. = O/night at=20 Jayakarta Hotel near Sengiggi Beach. Possible to extend stay if you = like it.=20

  3. Big=20 market at Mataram, the capital. Incredible sights!

  4. Visit=20 pottery village, cane furniture makers weaving village and Sasak = (native)=20 village.

  5. Go=20 diving/snorkelling at the Gillis (islands just offshore). You can get = there by=20 hiring a local small boat for about Rp100,000. Hire gear on the = beach for=20 Rp10,000. Half day trip by glass-bottom boat with snorkelling gear, = Rp40,000.=20 The current runs from the northern end of the beach and will carry you = down=20 the length of the reef with little effort on your part.
    Gilli = Trawangan is=20 the party island. The landing port at the Gillis is Bengsal and there = will be=20 a number of juvenile touts who will want to cheat you in every way = imaginable.=20

  6. Sidanggala Falls. South from Anyar on the = north coast=20 thro=92 Bayan and Batukok to Senaru. A fair walk down but standing on = the stones=20 under the falls (with your hands over your ears to stop the stinging = of the=20 water) is rewarding. There are even better falls further down but = remember=20 you=91ve got to get up again.

  7. Watch the=20 dawn light up the volcanoes on Bali. If you plan on climbing in = Lombok,=20 perhaps particularly for the fabled sunrise on Mount Rinjani (3270 = metres), be=20 prepared for the unexpected. In 2007 a group of seven Indonesian = students=20 ignored local warnings and all died of exposure on the slopes. They = had=20 neither adequate food or clothing for the climb. Their bodies were = later found=20 5 hours climbing short of the summit, possibly still climbing and = maybe trying=20 to reach hot springs in order to survive.

  8. There are=20 2 golf courses on Lombok where the fees, as in parts of Indonesia = outside of=20 Bali, are quite reasonable. Have a look at www.golfindonesia.com/courses/courselist.php?prov=3Dwest= %20Nusa%20Tengara.

  9. A warning to surfers who are tempted to = hire=20 motorbikes with board racks so that they can travel round. Bikes have = been=20 stolen while surfers are out in the water and owners demand = compensation for=20 millions of rupia, many times the real value of the bike. Threats of = police=20 involvement make it hard to say 'bugger off'! Some hirers are = evidently=20 renowned for stealing their own bikes! Perhaps best to take your own = (good)=20 chain and lock or appoint a bike guard from your group. =

  10. In a day=20 you can visit a local pottery factory, a family weaving shop, a = traditional=20 Sasak village, Kuta Bay for lunch, stick fighting and a great sunset = before=20 driving back to the tourist areas around Sengiggi and the = gillis.
    An=20 alternative is a climb up Mt Senaru, a guided walk in the National = Park,=20 Gangga Falls and a swim in the natural pools.     =

DRIVERS.

PEOPLE.

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Standard)

  1. Sheraton=20 Sengiggi 5*

  2. Holiday=20 Inn Lombok. A bit further up the coast than some. 4* - excellent. = Perhaps=20 a bit far from the tourist centres, which you might like but it also = means a=20 taxi ride to shops.

  3. Novotel =96=20 Kuta Bay (beautiful scenery). Good but isolated.

  4. Villa=20 Ombok on Gilli Trawangan. US$50/night. Excellent services, food, pool = &=20 dive centre.

  5. Matahari=20 Inn at Kuta Bay on the south coast. US$40 for the =91honeymoon = suite=92.=20 Accommodation, food &service wonderful. Scooter hire. US$4/day =96 = safer=20 than Bali. 10 min to beach.

  6. Intan=20 Laguna. Big pool and nice gardens. Restaurants close to hotel.=20

  7. Intan=20 Lombok Village on the beach at Sengiggi. 3-4 ***.

  8. Bulan=20 Baru, about 10Km north of the Sengigi hotels and a 1 minute walk to = the beach.=20 A/C rooms for Rp150,000 / night. Barb and Mal are good hosts and = helpful to=20 the tourist.

  9. Quinci=20 Villas. Smaller than Sheraton, beautiful accommodation, outdoor = showers, pool,=20 easy ride to town. Snorkelling off the beach.

  10. Jayakarta=20 about 5 min from Sengiggi beach. Hire bout to Gillis from the beach = not the=20 hotels who will charge much more and direct you through Bangsal = Harbour where=20 the local rip-off merchants will get you one way or = another.=20

  11. Vila Manis in=20 Sengiggi is run by Anna. Have a look at http://www.lombokrealestate.com= /.=20 Lovely house and pool for rent.

ACCOMMODATION.=20 (Cheap)

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Mon, 23 Mar 2009 3:56:04=20 PM
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Mon, 23 Mar 2009 2:26:05=20 PM
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